Princess Cruise Line: Princess Star June 20 - July 4, 2004
We booked this 14 day cruise for $700 per person as a last minute bargain. To get a lower rate on airfare we stayed in Barcelona an extra night.
Sunday, June 20
We left New Ulm in the morning and dropped our van off at PARK and FLY 80th Street between Hilton & Emb. Suites. Rate for seniors was $57 per week. Our flight from MSP to DTW (Detroit) was on flight KL 6766, departing at 2:15 pm. with scheduled arrival: 4:59 PM . The KL 6054 flight to AMS (Amsterdam) departed 1:35 pm.
Monday, June 21
Our flight arrived in AMS at 9am. We changed planes for our flight to Venice, arriving at 3:25 pm. The cruise ships dock at the Venezia Terminal Passeggieri, Marittima Fabbricato 248, in Venice. We checked into Star Princess and worked our way to Cabin #B624.
Tuesday, June 22
While Annette recovered from jet lag, Fred explored Venice. Both Annette and Fred had been here before when he led a college study tour of Europe. Still there were sites Fred wanted to see and to just plain walk around new territory. From the dock, there was easy access to the rest of the city by water taxi (water bus or vaporetto). Tickets were available from most landing stages and all shops bearing the ACTV sign. Flat rate fares were 3.1 euro for any one continuous journey, though most one-stop journeys cost just 1.5 euro. Tickets bought on board were subject to a surcharge. (See Europe, 2003, p. 605.)
The ship was not scheduled to leave until 6 pm so there was a full day to wander.
The vaporetti are frequently crowded, but they run on a fairly regular schedule. Most of Venice's attractions are within walking distance of each other. Gondolas are not cost effective for getting around; they are only to be used for romantic trips around the city. Annette and the college students did this last time we were here.
Overview
Venice is known as La Serenissima, or the Serene Republic. One look around the city will help you understand why. At first you may not recognize the absence of sound that fills your ears. But then it hits you — there are no cars here. As you walk down the middle of the street, you'll marvel at the beauty around every street corner.
Piazza San Marco was my home base. The piazza is the heart of the city.
St. Mark's Basilica is in Piazza San Marco, and the cathedral passes for Venice's biggest attraction. Like any church, respectful clothing was expected, and a strict dress code was enforced. No shorts, no bare arms or shoulders, and skirts must fall below the knee.
The interior has six cupolas featuring mosaics of various Biblical scenes. St. Mark's body was smuggled out of Alexandria and brought here, where it now rests.
The neighboring bell tower, Campanile di San Marco toppled in 1902, but it has since been rebuilt. The view from the top of the tower is splendid, and unlike the Duomo in Florence or St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, an elevator is available to take visitors all the way to the top. Last time we were in the bell tower, and only inches away from the bells, they began clanging away.
My main goal in Venice was the Galleria dell’ Accademia, just over the bridge and Grand Canal from Camo Santo Stefano. Hours “vary” but guide book say until 9 pm on Tuesday-Sunday. Last time we were here we were disappointed when we arrived at 2 pm on a Monday to find it closed at 2 pm. This time it was open. I spent some good time here. Actually, the walk to reach it was really nice, too.
The climax of the Venetian High Renaissance comes in Room X, with Veronese’s Christ in the House of Levi (1573), set in a Palladian loggia with a ghostly white imaginary background, in violent contrast to the rollicking feast of Turks, hounds, midgets, Germans and the artist himself (in the front, next to the pillar on the left).
The painting was originally titled The Last Supper, and fell foul of the Inquisition, which took umbrage (especially at the Germans). Veronese was cross-examined and ordered to make pious changes at his own expense; the artist saved himself both the trouble and the money by simply giving it the title by which it has been known ever since. Veronese, Self Portrait is to the right. When Annette and I visited St. Marks here in Venice, we saw many of the great ceiling paintings of Veronese.
It’s interesting to compare the above rendition of the Last Supper with that of another famous Venetian artist, Tintoretto,
One critic said: The disciples radiate away from Christ in almost-mathematical symmetry. In the hands of Tintoretto, the same event becomes dramatic, as the human figures are joined by angels. A servant is foregrounded, perhaps in reference to the Gospel of John 13:14-16. In the restless dynamism of his composition, his dramatic use of light, and his emphatic perspective effects, Tintoretto seems a baroque artist ahead of his time.
The last great painting in the room was Titian’s last ever, the somber La Pieta, which he was working on when he died in 1576 at the age of 90. He intended it for his tomb and smeared the paint on with his fingers.
I enjoyed my self guided walking tour of Venice. The city has a reputation of having greedy unscrupulous merchants, but I spent little and saw much. A word of advice to anyone who makes a purchase here, make sure you take the object with you and do not have anything mailed. There are many horror stories from those who spent good money and received outrageous junk in the mail. Mureno Glassware is one of the culprits. Leather outfitters do the same thing. When I purchased Mureno Glassware I fortunately used a credit card. I called VISA about their ploy and they got all my money back. I still have the funny piece of junk they sent.
Wed, Jun 23 - Adriatic Sea
Thu, Jun 24 - Aegean Sea
Fri, Jun 25 - Ephesus-Kusadasi, Turkey, Arrival time 8:00am,
The Star Princess docked in Kusadasi, Turkey as we were eating breakfast.
We took a taxi from the port to the upper entrance of Ephesus. Before hand we agreed to concentrate on a slow walk through the ruins of Ephesus. Our taxi driver agreed to pick us up at the lower end of the city -- by the gate, Admission to the ruins was $6 US. We anticipated our walk would take around 3 hour. I served as our guide since I had a knowledgeable Turkish guide last time I was here.
Our walk started at the Upper Agora (#7 on map) where Paul had preached in the heat of the day The Temple of Isis was in the background in the video.
St Paul remained in the city for three years from 65 to 68, and that it was here that he preached his famous sermons calling upon the hearers to embrace the faith in one God. He taught that God had no need of a house made with human hands and that he was present in all places at all times.
Basilica, imperial hall with three columns (#6 on map above) Odeion, #4 on map and pictured on right was a concert hall (where I had my picture with gct group taken on a previous trip).
Tomb and Fountain (nymphaeum) of Pollio is #10 on map.
Street of the Curates (priests) is #9. In mythology the curates were demigods, a name which was used for a priestly class in Ephesus. They formed the largest cultic union in the city. The street that took its name from the curates leads down to the Celsus Library. Because it is the central street in the city there are many monumental edifices that face onto the street.
There were also mosaics and galleries of columns on either side of the street.
Trajan’s Fountain #12 was next. It had a two story facade, decorated with columns and statues and a basin. A statue of Trajan once stood in the central niche. His foot and a round object still remain of the statue.
The Temple of Hadrian #14 was a marvelous structure on Curate's Avenue. It was erected in 138 at the
latest. The temple forms a simple naos structure with a plain monumental pronaos. At the front of the pronaos are four Corinthian columns with triangular capitals. There was an arch over the two central columns. In the center of the arch was a bust of the city goddess Tyche. The semicircular capital over the door has a likeness of Medusa amidst acanthus leaves and flowers. The frieze on original lentil over the pronaos door is in the museum. When the temple was being restored copies were used in its place.
Then came the Slope Houses or Terrace Houses, (preserve of the rich) #16 and pictured on the right.
Nearby was the Bath Complex #13, the (baths of Scholastica with frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium) #19 was assumed to be the Brothel (female head and heart etched in rock) Just past the Temple to Hadrian is a structure that was turned into a Byzantine stoa in that period #18.
Behind the stoa was a peristyle house used as brothel. It is supposed to have been connected by tunnel to the Celsus Library. This house is thought to have been built around 98 to 117 in the time of Trajan. Behind it was some restoration of parts of the Latrines #15 and Scholasticia Baths. The building was identified by an inscription found in the latrine. The entrance was on the Marble Street with another door opening onto Curates' Avenue.
The Library of Celsus is #20 on the map. One of the fully restored structures at Ephesus is the Celsus Library. Around 92 AD Roman Consul Tiberius Julius Polemaeanus was responsible for public buildings in the city of Rome, and was from 105 to 107 Proconsul for the province of Asia, the capital of which was Ephesus. When the man Celsus died in 114 at the age of 70, his son,Tiberius Julia Aquila built he library for a monument to his father. The construction was finished in 117. The structure of the building reflects the period of the emperor Hadrian with its emphasis on the front of the building. The façade is two-storied. The lower floor had pairs of Corinthian columns with nine steps leading up to the entrance level that had a 21 m entrance porch. There were three richly ornamented doors between the columns, with the center door being the widest and highest. The statues in the niches between the doors are copies of originals, which were taken to Vienna during the time of excavation. The statues represented various virtues, as inscribed on their pedestals. The virtues of Celsus symbolized here were Sophia (wisdom), Episteme (science), Ennoia (intelligence), and Arete (excellence). The columns on the second floor were smaller with triangular and semicircular capitals.
On the walls were niches for the scrolls of the library. From the niches in the upper wall it is understood that the interior was not two-floored but that there was a mezzanine balcony instead. The space behind the walls was left open to guard the scrolls from moisture.
To the right of the Library is the Market Gate(#21)or Gate of Macaeus and Mirthridates. Mazeus and Mithridates were slaves of Emperor Augustus who, upon manumission, received permission from their former master and built this lovely archway dedicated to Augustus, his wife Livia, and daughter Julia and her husband just a few years before Christ.
I then went back to take a video of the Public Latrines with marble seats and water channels (photo stop). Wealthy hired people to warm up the seat.
Marble Street #23 was once lined with arcades and decorated with statues. In sections that were restored tracks from chariots are still visible.
To our left was the Lower Agora #24 -- main market square and center of commerce.
Moving along we approached the large theater with stones with carvings of gladiators This Roman style theater was where people gathered for all kinds of purposes (religious discussions, political debate, entertainment and gladiator fights). WE observed the orchestra, stage, and tiers of seating for 24,000 spectators.
Demetrius, the silversmith of Ephesus, whose silver shrines of Diana were not selling because of Paul’s preaching, stirred up the people and led a crowd of thousands of Ephesians to the theater. Here they booed and stoned Paul and his two colleagues, chanting "Great is Artemis Diana" of the Ephesians! Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!" So turbulent was the crowd that Paul and his companions escaped only with great difficulty. From his Epistles to the communities it would appear that Paul spent some time as a prisoner in Ephesus. He stood trial here for preaching Christianity. It was from here that Paul left for Macedonia.
Last of all we came to the Arcadian Way #26 (Harbor Street) that runs between the theater and the harbor. We had time to purchase a wooden flute from a vendor on the way to the exit gate. Here our taxi driver was waiting patiently. He dropped us off at a market place in Kusadasi. After looking through clothing shops, Annette purchased a nice leather coat and Fred picked up a nice black shirt.
No one is exactly sure when Kusadasi was officially founded. The Greeks inhabited the area and had a tremendous impact on the history and culture. Kusadasi took over as the major trade center when the ancient port of Ephesus was rendered useless because of a lack of water and resources. By the 1400s, Kusadasi was controlled by Genovese and Venetian traders and shop owners who named the port Scala Nuova. Some years later the Ottomans invaded and took over, and they ruled the land for centuries. They called Kusadasi Bird Island because of the frequent herds of pigeons that migrated to the area.
Back on the ship we refreshed our selves, ate a nice dinner and settled in for the night. The ship left Kusadasi at 6 pm and we travelled through the night to Athens, Greece.
Sat, Jun 26 - Athens (Piraeus), Greece, Arrives 6:00am,
Our cruise ship docked at Athen’s main harbor, Piraeus, just southwest of central Athens, and a 15-minute ride on the metro to the central part of the city. Both Annette and I have been to Athens before with college students on one of my study tours. Professor Raddatz and I spent considerable time here too on our Balkan Tour. Athens is a polluted and crowded city (too many cars), so we decided to stay in the terminal area.
Athens emerged during the Classical Age, in the 5th century BC, as the most prominent city-state in Greece. It is located in the southernmost region of Central Greece, and is the port city where most begin their tours of the popular Greek islands. It is situated in a basin surrounded by four mountains: Mt. Hymettos to the east, Mt. Parnis and Mt. Aigaleo to the West, and Mt. Pendeli to the north. It is home to countless archeological sites, museums, and social attractions. Greek is the language spoken here, although as in most places, English is also spoken and understood. Currency in Greece is the drachma.
The street congestion is partially alleviated by a newly constructed subway system called the metro, but taxis are still the primary mode of transportation for visitors. And although Athens is a modern city, the history and antiquity of Greece is not entirely forgotten here. The city is home to many places that recall Greece's achievements in science, sport, architecture, and art during from Classical Age. It boasts of relics from the Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods.
Sun, Jun 27 - At Sea
Mon, Jun 28 - Naples, Italy,
We arrived 7:00am, while eating breakfast.
Our cruise ship docked at Autorita Portuale, Piazzale Pisacane, in Naples. See site on map. Since our location was so favorable to the main part of the city, we thought we would rely on using our feet to get around.
We were near the Garden Pubblici so we could walk through the gardens to the recently restored Piazza del Plebiscito. Piazza Plebiscito is the largest square in Naples. It is named for the plebiscite taken on October 2nd in 1870 that brought Naples into the unified Kingdom of Italy under the House of Savoy. It is bounded on the east by the Royal Palace and on the west by the church of San Francesco di Paola with the colonnades extending to both sides.
The huge domed church, embracing the piazza in its curving colonnades as does St. Peters in Rome, is San Francesco di Paola (1815). The great dome and classical portico were modeled after the Pantheon in Rome.
Across the Square rises the equally imposing bulk of the Palazzo Real (Royal Palace) begun in 1600, expanded by the Bourbons, and finished by the kings of Italy.
Fred looked over his lesson plans and decided we should head over to the Galleria (see previous map). We were impressed.
It reminded us of the famous Galleria in Milan. Galleria Umberto I is a public shopping gallery in Naples, southern Italy. It is located directly across from the San Carlo opera house. It was built between 1887–1891, and was the cornerstone in the decades-long rebuilding of Naples — called the risanamento (lit. "making healthy again") — that lasted until World War I. It was designed by Emanuele Rocco, who employed modern architectural elements reminiscent of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan.
The Galleria was named for Umberto I, King of Italy at the time of construction. It was meant to combine businesses, shops, cafes and social life — public space — with private space in the apartments on the third floor.
From here we could take the Funicular from Via Toledo up past Castle Sant Elmo. From the landward side of Piazza del Plebiscito and the palace, Naples’s most imposing street, Via Toledo, runs northward past the Galleria to Piazza Carita. This main business and shopping street has been called the most popular and gayest street in the world.
We took the Funicular to the heights above Naples and had a commanding view of the City and Castle Sant Elmo.
Our self-guided tour had served us well and we headed back to the ship for dinner. We enjoyed Naples. That evening the Star Princess would head for Civitavecchia, the port city for Rome.
Tue, Jun 29 - Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy, Arrival 7:00am, during breakfast.
Cruise ships dock at Autorita Portuale di Civitavecchia, Molo Vespucci, in nearby Civitavecchia. Rather than taking a train to Rome (which we had visited before), we decided to tour the port city. Otherwise the day would be somewhat much taken up by transportation (over an hour each way, plus waiting for the trains).
The big fortress overlooking the harbor was designed by Michelangelo for the popes, and so named Forte Michelangelo.
After the various looting, fire and massacres to which the city was subjected towards the end of the 1400s, under the continuous threat of pirates that infested the seas, Giulio II della Rovere, who became Pope in 1503 and was particularly aware of the need to provide an efficient means by which to defend the port of Civitavecchia, decided to arm the city with a fortress which, apart from defending the port, a key factor for communicating with Rome, would also ensure tranquility for its citizens who, to escape from enemy invasion, were forced to find refuge on the nearby mountains,
The fortress was completed in 1535 under the pontifical reign of Pope Paul III of Farnese, the great benefactor of the arts. The upper part of the Donjon still had to be completed and the task was assigned to the great Michelangelo. Fort Michelangelo is amongst the most vast ever built in those times: it is of quadrilateral shape with four turrets on top and an octagonal shaped donjon; the walls are covered in travertine, with a surrounding mote which today has disappeared, however the filling hides underneath the entire clod above which the escarpment is slightly inclined.
The four bastions are called: San Colombano, Santa Ferma, San Sebastiano and San Giovanni. The tower of San Sebastiano also has an underground corridor that was used to secretly exit the fortress. It is presumed that it emerged from inside the city walls city. In the Santa Ferma tower, which was once in direct contact with the sea, there is a small chapel which has always existed there, in honor of the Patron Saint of the city.
We walked down a pedestrianized seafront promenade to a beautiful park and watched teenager brushing up on their break dancing, The setting was very peaceful and relaxing.
At 7pm our cruise ship set sail for our next destination.
While Annette recovered from jet lag, Fred explored Venice. Both Annette and Fred had been here before when he led a college study tour of Europe. Still there were sites Fred wanted to see and to just plain walk around new territory. From the dock, there was easy access to the rest of the city by water taxi (water bus or vaporetto). Tickets were available from most landing stages and all shops bearing the ACTV sign. Flat rate fares were 3.1 euro for any one continuous journey, though most one-stop journeys cost just 1.5 euro. Tickets bought on board were subject to a surcharge. (See Europe, 2003, p. 605.)
The ship was not scheduled to leave until 6 pm so there was a full day to wander.
The vaporetti are frequently crowded, but they run on a fairly regular schedule. Most of Venice's attractions are within walking distance of each other. Gondolas are not cost effective for getting around; they are only to be used for romantic trips around the city. Annette and the college students did this last time we were here.
Overview
Venice is known as La Serenissima, or the Serene Republic. One look around the city will help you understand why. At first you may not recognize the absence of sound that fills your ears. But then it hits you — there are no cars here. As you walk down the middle of the street, you'll marvel at the beauty around every street corner.
The interior has six cupolas featuring mosaics of various Biblical scenes. St. Mark's body was smuggled out of Alexandria and brought here, where it now rests.
The climax of the Venetian High Renaissance comes in Room X, with Veronese’s Christ in the House of Levi (1573), set in a Palladian loggia with a ghostly white imaginary background, in violent contrast to the rollicking feast of Turks, hounds, midgets, Germans and the artist himself (in the front, next to the pillar on the left).
One critic said: The disciples radiate away from Christ in almost-mathematical symmetry. In the hands of Tintoretto, the same event becomes dramatic, as the human figures are joined by angels. A servant is foregrounded, perhaps in reference to the Gospel of John 13:14-16. In the restless dynamism of his composition, his dramatic use of light, and his emphatic perspective effects, Tintoretto seems a baroque artist ahead of his time.
The last great painting in the room was Titian’s last ever, the somber La Pieta, which he was working on when he died in 1576 at the age of 90. He intended it for his tomb and smeared the paint on with his fingers.
I enjoyed my self guided walking tour of Venice. The city has a reputation of having greedy unscrupulous merchants, but I spent little and saw much. A word of advice to anyone who makes a purchase here, make sure you take the object with you and do not have anything mailed. There are many horror stories from those who spent good money and received outrageous junk in the mail. Mureno Glassware is one of the culprits. Leather outfitters do the same thing. When I purchased Mureno Glassware I fortunately used a credit card. I called VISA about their ploy and they got all my money back. I still have the funny piece of junk they sent.
Wed, Jun 23 - Adriatic Sea
Thu, Jun 24 - Aegean Sea
Fri, Jun 25 - Ephesus-Kusadasi, Turkey, Arrival time 8:00am,
The Star Princess docked in Kusadasi, Turkey as we were eating breakfast.
We took a taxi from the port to the upper entrance of Ephesus. Before hand we agreed to concentrate on a slow walk through the ruins of Ephesus. Our taxi driver agreed to pick us up at the lower end of the city -- by the gate, Admission to the ruins was $6 US. We anticipated our walk would take around 3 hour. I served as our guide since I had a knowledgeable Turkish guide last time I was here.
St Paul remained in the city for three years from 65 to 68, and that it was here that he preached his famous sermons calling upon the hearers to embrace the faith in one God. He taught that God had no need of a house made with human hands and that he was present in all places at all times.
Tomb and Fountain (nymphaeum) of Pollio is #10 on map.
There were also mosaics and galleries of columns on either side of the street.
latest. The temple forms a simple naos structure with a plain monumental pronaos. At the front of the pronaos are four Corinthian columns with triangular capitals. There was an arch over the two central columns. In the center of the arch was a bust of the city goddess Tyche. The semicircular capital over the door has a likeness of Medusa amidst acanthus leaves and flowers. The frieze on original lentil over the pronaos door is in the museum. When the temple was being restored copies were used in its place.
Nearby was the Bath Complex #13, the (baths of Scholastica with frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium) #19 was assumed to be the Brothel (female head and heart etched in rock) Just past the Temple to Hadrian is a structure that was turned into a Byzantine stoa in that period #18.
Behind the stoa was a peristyle house used as brothel. It is supposed to have been connected by tunnel to the Celsus Library. This house is thought to have been built around 98 to 117 in the time of Trajan. Behind it was some restoration of parts of the Latrines #15 and Scholasticia Baths. The building was identified by an inscription found in the latrine. The entrance was on the Marble Street with another door opening onto Curates' Avenue.
On the walls were niches for the scrolls of the library. From the niches in the upper wall it is understood that the interior was not two-floored but that there was a mezzanine balcony instead. The space behind the walls was left open to guard the scrolls from moisture.
To the right of the Library is the Market Gate(#21)or Gate of Macaeus and Mirthridates. Mazeus and Mithridates were slaves of Emperor Augustus who, upon manumission, received permission from their former master and built this lovely archway dedicated to Augustus, his wife Livia, and daughter Julia and her husband just a few years before Christ.
Marble Street #23 was once lined with arcades and decorated with statues. In sections that were restored tracks from chariots are still visible.
Demetrius, the silversmith of Ephesus, whose silver shrines of Diana were not selling because of Paul’s preaching, stirred up the people and led a crowd of thousands of Ephesians to the theater. Here they booed and stoned Paul and his two colleagues, chanting "Great is Artemis Diana" of the Ephesians! Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!" So turbulent was the crowd that Paul and his companions escaped only with great difficulty. From his Epistles to the communities it would appear that Paul spent some time as a prisoner in Ephesus. He stood trial here for preaching Christianity. It was from here that Paul left for Macedonia.
Last of all we came to the Arcadian Way #26 (Harbor Street) that runs between the theater and the harbor. We had time to purchase a wooden flute from a vendor on the way to the exit gate. Here our taxi driver was waiting patiently. He dropped us off at a market place in Kusadasi. After looking through clothing shops, Annette purchased a nice leather coat and Fred picked up a nice black shirt.
No one is exactly sure when Kusadasi was officially founded. The Greeks inhabited the area and had a tremendous impact on the history and culture. Kusadasi took over as the major trade center when the ancient port of Ephesus was rendered useless because of a lack of water and resources. By the 1400s, Kusadasi was controlled by Genovese and Venetian traders and shop owners who named the port Scala Nuova. Some years later the Ottomans invaded and took over, and they ruled the land for centuries. They called Kusadasi Bird Island because of the frequent herds of pigeons that migrated to the area.
Sat, Jun 26 - Athens (Piraeus), Greece, Arrives 6:00am,
Our cruise ship docked at Athen’s main harbor, Piraeus, just southwest of central Athens, and a 15-minute ride on the metro to the central part of the city. Both Annette and I have been to Athens before with college students on one of my study tours. Professor Raddatz and I spent considerable time here too on our Balkan Tour. Athens is a polluted and crowded city (too many cars), so we decided to stay in the terminal area.
Athens emerged during the Classical Age, in the 5th century BC, as the most prominent city-state in Greece. It is located in the southernmost region of Central Greece, and is the port city where most begin their tours of the popular Greek islands. It is situated in a basin surrounded by four mountains: Mt. Hymettos to the east, Mt. Parnis and Mt. Aigaleo to the West, and Mt. Pendeli to the north. It is home to countless archeological sites, museums, and social attractions. Greek is the language spoken here, although as in most places, English is also spoken and understood. Currency in Greece is the drachma.
The street congestion is partially alleviated by a newly constructed subway system called the metro, but taxis are still the primary mode of transportation for visitors. And although Athens is a modern city, the history and antiquity of Greece is not entirely forgotten here. The city is home to many places that recall Greece's achievements in science, sport, architecture, and art during from Classical Age. It boasts of relics from the Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods.
Mon, Jun 28 - Naples, Italy,
We arrived 7:00am, while eating breakfast.
The huge domed church, embracing the piazza in its curving colonnades as does St. Peters in Rome, is San Francesco di Paola (1815). The great dome and classical portico were modeled after the Pantheon in Rome.
From here we could take the Funicular from Via Toledo up past Castle Sant Elmo. From the landward side of Piazza del Plebiscito and the palace, Naples’s most imposing street, Via Toledo, runs northward past the Galleria to Piazza Carita. This main business and shopping street has been called the most popular and gayest street in the world.
Tue, Jun 29 - Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy, Arrival 7:00am, during breakfast.
Cruise ships dock at Autorita Portuale di Civitavecchia, Molo Vespucci, in nearby Civitavecchia. Rather than taking a train to Rome (which we had visited before), we decided to tour the port city. Otherwise the day would be somewhat much taken up by transportation (over an hour each way, plus waiting for the trains).
The big fortress overlooking the harbor was designed by Michelangelo for the popes, and so named Forte Michelangelo.
After the various looting, fire and massacres to which the city was subjected towards the end of the 1400s, under the continuous threat of pirates that infested the seas, Giulio II della Rovere, who became Pope in 1503 and was particularly aware of the need to provide an efficient means by which to defend the port of Civitavecchia, decided to arm the city with a fortress which, apart from defending the port, a key factor for communicating with Rome, would also ensure tranquility for its citizens who, to escape from enemy invasion, were forced to find refuge on the nearby mountains,
The fortress was completed in 1535 under the pontifical reign of Pope Paul III of Farnese, the great benefactor of the arts. The upper part of the Donjon still had to be completed and the task was assigned to the great Michelangelo. Fort Michelangelo is amongst the most vast ever built in those times: it is of quadrilateral shape with four turrets on top and an octagonal shaped donjon; the walls are covered in travertine, with a surrounding mote which today has disappeared, however the filling hides underneath the entire clod above which the escarpment is slightly inclined.
The four bastions are called: San Colombano, Santa Ferma, San Sebastiano and San Giovanni. The tower of San Sebastiano also has an underground corridor that was used to secretly exit the fortress. It is presumed that it emerged from inside the city walls city. In the Santa Ferma tower, which was once in direct contact with the sea, there is a small chapel which has always existed there, in honor of the Patron Saint of the city.
We walked down a pedestrianized seafront promenade to a beautiful park and watched teenager brushing up on their break dancing, The setting was very peaceful and relaxing.
At 7pm our cruise ship set sail for our next destination.
GO ON TO 2004 MED CRUISE PART II
