Jorge pointed out an OAT provided air-conditioned VIP lounge to accommodate us as we awaited our bus. Nice restrooms. Snacks. Cold drinks. Thru a window I took a shot of an old battered aircraft, parked in a lot. No, that was not the plane that we had just flown on.
Iquitos is the country’s main river port, founded by Jesuits as a mission in the 1750. Later rubber barons established it in 1864 as the heart of rubber country on the Amazon’s deep waters. It is Peru's largest jungle city (population 400,000) and the Amazon Basin's largest settlement without road links, connected to the outside world only by air and river.
The drive though the city was at a leisurely pace and Eric and Jorge, our naturalists, pointed out points of interest.
Nice tour, which included a walking visit to the teeming marketplace.
Just about any kind of jungle food could be purchased here, which included turtle, anaconda (in a jar), crawling grubs (Rick and Eric sampled them), massive tiger catfish, and “gator” meat. Vultures watched overhead at the tempting array of dishes. One could look down the street passageways of the market to see the humbler dwellings of Iquitos.
Fred is in photo to the left of the girls.
Much of the architecture we saw in the initial settled part of town was a 19th-century vestige of the era when European commercial barons held sway over life and culture here.
Sumptuous and exquisite, they display the opulence of the rubber heyday. Most of these mansions are located in front of the river sidewalk.
Most outstanding among them is the Casa de Hierro (Iron House), the so-called first prefabricated house in America. It was designed and constructed by Gustave Eiffel, brought from Europe in parts (bolts and nuts included), and assembled at the site in which it currently stands. We walked around the square, giving Fred time to have his shoes shined (shiner charged 1 sol, but Fred gave him $1 US).
At last we boarded a craft, El Caiman II, to take us to our ship docked on the Nanay River, just off the Amazon. Tied to the pier was our privately chartered home for the next seven days.
La Aquamarina combined modern comforts and amenities with the mystique of a classic 19th-century expedition ship. Rich wood interiors with views of the enveloping rain forest through floor-to-ceiling windows.
Cabins were all air-conditioned with en suite bathroom and hot/cold water. Cold filtered bottled water was available at anytime.
Our ship cast off and worked its way upstream to the confluence of the Marañon and Ucayali Rivers. Here, it is generally (but not universally!) considered that the Amazon River begins, at least in name.
We had our first meal (lunch) on board in the air-conditioned dinning parlor. Both Annette and Fred gained weight on the trip.
As we glided down the Amazon, most of our group stood on the open-air sun deck to watch children on the banks or women washing their clothes in the river. As we watched the riverbanks go by, we kept our eyes peeled for wildlife such as gray and pink dolphins. There were many, leaping out of the water for us to see, but difficult to catch on film.
Jorge, one of our two highly trained naturalists (both naturalists were born and raised in the rain forest), outlined our river travel for us on a large map.
We were loaded into our motorized launch, El Caiman II (powered by 3 Johnson engines) that allowed us to navigate in shallow and narrow tributaries.
We were amazed at how wide the Amazon River was at this point -- more like what one would expect at the mouth of the river.
When the flood plains and the Amazon River Basin flood during the rainy season the Amazon River can be up to 24.8 mi wide. Where the Amazon opens at its estuary the river is over 202 mi wide!
Further on we pulled over into the bank to observe monkeys. At first a brown woolly monkey heeded the call of our guide to come closer, and then a spider monkey that unabashedly clamored onto our craft followed him. With the sun setting we headed back to our waiting El Aquamarina for the Captain’s Welcome Event. The same crewmembers that made our beds cleaned our rooms, and even did all of our laundry, also provided lively pre-dinner music. Dinner was delicious.
Day 6, Tuesday, August 9
After breakfast Jorge used his big map to show where we had been since leaving Iquitos on the Amazon River and where we were going on the morning excursion.
Some 60 miles south of Iquitos, the Peruvian government has established the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve, encompassing five million acres and accessible only by water. That is where we were headed. Here we enter seasonally flooded low jungle or varzea. Annette stopped back at our Room 105 to prepare for the morning activity. Plaques of gray and pink dolphins graced the wall above our beds. The real things were spotted just as we stepped outside and reached the sun deck. After loading into our discovery craft, we pulled away from the El Aquamarina. Howard at the helm. We pulled into a small tributary for our bird watching exercise. Watching us from the upper bank was a curious child. Women washed clothes along the shoreline.
We were treated to an unexpected learning experience when a woman holding a boa constrictor motioned to us to pull over.
She handed the creature to our guide who passed it around on the boat. Some of our ladies let the boa wrap itself around their necks. This nonpoisonous snake, about a span’s length, was not dangerous as a constrictor because of its relatively small size. Shortly afterwards, friendly fishermen pulled alongside our boat to let us examine their catch. Our guide identified the various fish, including the tiger catfish.
Retracing our steps back to main river present some problems as we edged our way through shallow water and floating trees, but our guide Jorge helped the maneuver with his long paddle. Back into action we continued our bird watching activity. We stopped back at our ship for a break and found our daily towel “animal” waiting for us.
Once fortified, we launched out from the El Aquamarina for our next adventure, which took place at a “rum factory” at the Nueva Esperanga Village. It took a little effort to climb up the embankment, but a layer of crushed sugar cane stalks provided a walkable surface.
When we arrived at the “factory” laborers were bringing bundles of sugar cane to be processed. A young man cranked up the gas engine that sputtered, snorted and belched smoke before moving the series of belts linked to gears.
We got to participate in the processing by shoving sugar cane into a chewing device that squeezed all the liquid out of the stalks. Pat Bowar showed us how it was correctly performed. The resulting liquid sugar then drained off into a large barrel, which, when filled, was moved aside to ferment. The natural fermentation process caused the liquid to bubble. Full open barrels were held on the platform for a designated period time before being poured into the distilling apparatus.
Our group further participated in smelling and tasting some powerful 80 proof beverages. The guide informed us that when the finished rum product was marketed, the government taxed it. After finishing our happy hour “to break the morning”, we headed down the inclined embankment back to our ship and chow time. The delightful buffet arrangement seemed to make everything taste even better.
Back on our motorized launch we then proceeded further on the Ucayali River to the “terra ferme” forest, or upland forest that never experiences flooding. Without the extreme wet/dry variations of varzea, or seasonally flooded forests, terra ferme forests are able to support a more diverse, permanent population of plants, animals, and birds. As we walked to the main structure of the village, Eric had us stop to view a large ant nest situated on a tree. He pulled off a piece of bark-like covering, held his hand against the opening and then displayed a palm swarming with little ants.
After a brief visit with the friendly natives we started a jungle walk that led to an oxbow lake and a search for hoatzins, one of the most primitive bird species in the world, as well as the gigantic aquatic plants called Victoria Regia.
The Victoria Regia produce a large attractive flower and have “floating” leaves that will hold the weight of a one year old child. Many birds made their home here by the pond. I caught one interesting creature with the video walking across the saucer-like leaves.
As we retraced our steps, our attention was drawn to a dark narrow line across the trail. Looking closer, I noticed movement within the line - an army of termites! At the village, our rain forest Indian friends had set out an array of souvenir crafts for our consideration. Rick bought a flute and demonstrated his musical skill on the way back to the ship. In our room, yep, another towel arrangement, this time with sunglasses.
Day 7, Wednesday, August 10
Wake up call was for 5:30 a.m. for some early bird watching (posted schedule) on the Rio Maranon River (highlighted in purple on map). Morning sunrise was a pretty sight. Among our many sightings were a black collared hawk, an iguana and a three-toed sloth.We tried to navigate into a narrow tributary, but even with the efforts of our expert guide, the shallow water made us seek birding elsewhere. There was no shortage of sightings throughout the morning. At one point we saw a red fruit hanging from a drifting tree. Our guide cut this kapok down with his machete so we could cut it open. As usual, gray and pink dolphins were jumping around in the water around us.
As we approached Santa Domingo, the next village to be visited, we observed the ubiquitous women washing their laundry in the Pucata River. The village, located on public reserve land, had been granted the right to establish itself there. One of the buildings that stood out was a Christian chapel, but it was not used for Christian worship. The village did not have enough Christians to requisition a priest. We were introduced to the chief, a rather young man, and his wife who was holding a baby. The village had been granted a teacher because it had enough school age children (12) to merit one. Eric took charge of the children and had them interact with our group. He brought with him two volleyballs to donate to the school. The friendly outgoing children shook hands with each of us. Eric had them ask our names and to count to ten in Spanish.
After the encounter with the children, we were led into the jungle to see where the villagers obtained yucca roots, a main staple in their diet. Following the example set by a native, Rick and Charles pulled up yucca roots and planted shoots for a future crop.
The more ambitious members of our group launched out into the river to swim with the dolphins, while the more timid watched from on shore. As they swam we explored the village, saw fish set out to dry and some, like Annette, visited with the children. We noticed that the houses had no furniture and that hammocks served as beds, or a place to rock children.
As we did a little more birding on the way back to the ship, we watched egress along the shoreline. Back on our ship we enjoyed our lunch.
Our naturalist Jorge pointed out on the map where we were to acquaint ourselves with two shamans. After a hike up a steep incline we reached the large ceremonial lodge. People of the rain forest would canoe for as many as five hours to be treated here by authentic shamans. Shamanism is practiced around the globe, and is universally distinguished by a trance state called shamanic ecstasy. In these “out of body” travels, the shaman enlists denizens of the spirit world to help him with a variety of duties, from healing the sick to assisting a deceased person’s soul into the afterworld — and all the while, the shaman remains conscious. Sometimes the shaman will, if he determines it safe and necessary, have his patient drink his hallucination concoction, so their trances may interact.
We were shown bottles of home-made medicines, which were then passed around for us to smell. Finally the two medicine men treated the members of our group to a healing ceremony. The first shaman shook leaves and chanted over us while the other blew smoke to help the spirits work. Eric told us he himself had made use of shamans when he lived in the rain forest. When he explained the use of medicinal plants to lessen pain, heal burns or stop bleeding, it brought back memories of our Eastern Woodland Indian Seminar with the University of Wisconsin. It was just that Indians of different areas use different plants of similar properties that are accessible in that region.
Back on the El Aquamarina, we sat on the sun deck and listened to a rain forest storyteller. He started out by telling of his encounter with a wild boar. To back up his story he went around our group showing the lasting scars. After a satisfying dinner, our naturalist explained what was entailed in the excursion for the next day.
Day 8, Thursday, August 11
The agenda for the morning called for a lengthy walk, maneuvering suspended walkways (canopy walk) and riding back in small dugout canoes. The original brochure said the dugout canoe was optional. Fred and Annette opted for something less demanding, a river watch trip. We were given our own private guide (Victor) for a two-hour cruise. The riverbanks had many holes in the mud where catfish had made their nests. One area had just experienced a recent mudslide brought about by erosion. Huge sections of the banks had dropped into the river. Then we sighted a mango tree.
Our guide pulled the craft up to a spot where a sixteen-year-old girl and her grandmother were washing clothes. As we conversed, young boys with a pet parakeet came over -- and then the girl’s mother and sister. Our craft pulled into a narrow and shallow tributary for further exploration, but the boat stuck on the sandy bottom. The driver put the engines in reverse, and with considerable effort we were finally dislodged. On the way back to our riverboat home, we did more bird watching and came upon a breadfruit tree and some weaverbird nests. When we arrived at our room, we found everything cleaned up, beds made and a towel “arrangement” of a ship at sea setting on one of the beds.
We rejoined the major group that returned from the canopy walk and took off together to a village for a home-hosted midday meal. We met the host and hostess and family, who spread out large leaves on the floor that would serve as our dinning table. After all the main dishes were set out, we helped ourselves. The featured item was fish that had been baked wrapped in banana leaves.
It was great fish and some of us went back for seconds. The more traditional sat on the floor, but most of us sat on benches built along the walls. There were no eating utensils and everybody ate with fingers. After wards we toured the kitchen, which had no furnishings other than the large stove pit. The bedroom had only hammocks for sleeping. Just outside the villagers had laid out crafts for our consideration. Then down the banks and back to our waiting craft for more observation along the river, which included village huts.
Our next activity was a little fishing expedition up the Tiger River for piranha, which is a dietary staple for many of the Amazon rain forest’s indigenous people. According to Teddy Roosevelt, “the piranhas are the most ferocious fish in the world”. While fearsome, they’re also esteemed as some of the best eating fish in South America. They have light, nutty-tasting flesh that lends itself wonderfully to any number of cooking methods.
Jorge baited our hooks with pieces of meat, which he had to do many times because the fish quite often take the bait without the hook. It was a little frustrating to feel the nibbling activity on our line and not be rewarded.
Yet some of us did catch piranha, as evident in the video of proud Rick and Annette. Our gang then returned to the El Aquamarina for a pre dinner drink of Peruvian Pisco sour, a cooking demonstration, live music by the crew and our delightful evening meal.
Day 9, Friday, August 12
Our naturalist Jorge again faithfully charted our course on the map for the day’s activities. He printed out the agenda on the notice board as well. We were warned that we would be away from the El Aquamarina for five hours, which will necessitate a stop in the jungle for nature’s call without the benefits of AAA approved facilities.
In our return to Pacaya Samiria National Park this morning we came across some early morning fishermen unloading their nets of teeming fish into their dugouts.
Our naturalist said that while the river still yielded many fish, the size of the fish being caught was becoming increasingly smaller over the years. We cruised along the river, observing natives along the banks as well as the interesting array of birds. Howard and Sandy looked especially relaxed as the scenery rolled by us.
The driver shut off the engine for a while so we could watch the pink and gray dolphins leaping out of the water, and then we were on our way again deeper up the river for more bird watching. Unexpectedly we came upon a string of long-nosed bats clinging to a tree. Then it was time for our mid morning picnic break. Pat Bower sat across from us so she was videoed with her plate of food. A fisherman pulled along side our craft to display a nice size tiger catfish.
Eric held up the fish for us to see and then purchased it for what was about seven US dollars. Later that fish provided some really good eating’ for us. Some of us threw our left over bread overboard as little fish nibbled it away into nothing.
More nature watching time for the birders. Also observation of a three-toed sloth and a large fiscus tree.
Then on the shore to our right were vultures feasting on a dolphin that had been accidentally trapped in a fishing net.
Along the riverbank friendly Indians greeted us. Eric had us pull over to give some of them Inca Cola. They reciprocated with freshly cooked piranha and some our members took them up upon it -- digging in with their fingers. Back at the ship, we found our towels shaped into boots. Lunch was, as usual, excellent.
After lunch, more nature watching. This time we slowed down to observe a three-toe sloth. A little further, another stop, this time for a swarm of little energetic monkeys playing in the trees. Then back to the ship around sunset. The El Aquamarina had pulled ashore at a nearby riverbank settlement where we were to take in some discovery moments.
We climbed up the walkway to meet the Pamal villagers, as two little girls watched us. As in other villages there was some kind of pet (until it is big enough to eat)-- this time a turtle. Children prodded the creature to move by thumping on its shell.
As part of our experiences, we investigated the food (with Pat smelling a bowl of the yucca mixture). Since the natives speared fish, we were given a spear demonstration/hands-on workshop. These people had their own simple method for squeezing sugar juice from the sugar cane and our members had a chance to try it out.
Now that it was nightfall, we returned to our ship -- its lights romantically reflecting on the water. It seemed the entire village watched us depart from the banks above.
While waiting for dinner, we were entertained by our musicians -- and dancing by our participants (like Sandy) who did the macramania and the hava with great enthusiasm. Annette signed up for a before dinner drink on the observation deck.
Day 10, Saturday, August 13
Agenda board revealed an ambitious schedule for the morning. Map showing location of Nauta. We cruised along the shoreline of the town of Nauta, near where the Ucayali and the Marañon —the major head streams of the Amazon —join together. Here was a scene of much activity with the unloading of small boats and canoes. The market place was crowded with all kinds of goods displayed.
At the end of the market street, a bridge crossed over a deep ravine and a creek. Browsing through the market, we found a cow’s head hanging in a meat market, a very plain restaurant for the locals, many smiling children and a watch repair shop. The designated meeting place for our group was the town square. A Catholic Church stood prominently off the square. The majority of Peruvians are Catholic. The largest Protestant church is the Seventh Day Adventists, though we did see a few storefront Assembly of God and Pentecostal churches.
More cheerful children who posed for pictures.
From here we proceeded to a large pavilion-like gazebo reaching out over a large pond. The pond was well stocked with large turtles, who didn’t seem to mind the camion in their midst.
The highlight of our morning was dance performances by young local girls. Fred is in the background with the camcorder.
In one dance, a performer employed an anaconda in her routine. When the call was made for volunteer participants to take to the floor, Pat and Sandy stepped up and performed well.
OAT arranged to have a fleet of local motorcars waiting to take us around the area outside of the marketplace. With two passengers in each motor car-bike we formed a long caravan. This experience allowed us to see more of the region. Our ride ended at the dock where we first entered the town -- and we were back on the water again. While we were visiting Nauta, the crew made flowers out of towels to spruce up our room. We met up on the sun deck where we were given demonstrations on how to assemble the various towel arrangements that had been placed on our beds.
After a more than adequate lunch, our naturalists set up the large map to give as an overview of our past journeys. A check-off list revealed we had seen and identified 85 species of birds. Then we set out for our last bird watch expedition in the watercraft. We waved good-bye to those who chose to sit this one out. We passed an overloaded boat filled with passengers headed to Iquitos. We saw erosion in action as large chunks of turf fell into the river.
The sun was starting to set as we headed back to the ship for dinner and a last farewell show by the staff of the El Aquamarina.
Again we heard the music of the zampoña, a set of panpipes with two rows of bamboo canes, seven in one and six in the other.
Day 11, Sunday, August 14
After breakfast we left our ship for some exploring in Iquitos. Our air flight on Lans Peru was scheduled for 10:10 a.m., more or less. We had been forewarned that postponed trips were common, and today proved to be common. Our guides provided a drive around Iquitos that included the Parque de Quistococha, a zoo site with exotic animals and various species of serpents. Fortunately, a military parade was taking place at the city square. Troops marched past a reviewing stand with seated dignitaries. It seemed the number of units taking part were countless, and included youth group and auxiliary forces, even a medical unit with mock demonstration of a doctor assisting a birth. In the center of the square a statue of a fallen soldier who had valiantly fought in the War of the Pacific (1879-83) in which Peru was humiliated by Chile. Since our flight had another delay, we visited another crafts market (with performing musicians) and a lunch at a pleasant Italian restaurant.
Finally, at 7 p.m., we boarded our plane and headed to Lima.
Day 12, Monday, August 15
At 1:00 am, we boarded our American Airline flight 948 for home, with a connection in Dallas.
Great trip! Great Guides! Great Group!
