The reason I took this trip was an unbelievable $250 airfare deal from TWA. To secure reasonably priced lodging, I contacted my free lance agent friend Vickie Schumacher. She found the
that was located within walking distance of the major sites in Madrid. I especially appreciated the travel office around the corner where I booked my out of town tours and tickets for cultural events. And the subway was nearby when I needed to get back to the airport.
Annette did not take this trip because of her teaching duties. Fred was excused from the college because students were released for teaching field experiences during early March.
On an on-my-own walking tour I started with the Plaza de Espana, which was almost just across the street (western end of Gran Via).
It was one of the locations used by the French firing squads to execute prisoners taken during the May 2nd uprising, depicted here by Goya.
The tower portion of the monument includes a stone sculpture of Cervantes, which overlooks bronze sculptures of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.
The nearby Palacio Real . The site of the palace dates from a 10th-century fortress. The "Old Castle" was built on the location in the 16th century. It burned on December 24, 1734; King Philip V ordered a new palace built on the same location. Present King Juan Carlos and the Royal Family do not reside in it, choosing instead the more modest Palacio on the outskirts of Madrid.
In the area between the Palacio and the Cathedral was a monument to Philip II who brought the royal capital to Madrid.
Opposite the courtyard is the imposing Cathedral de la Almudena. The site on which Almudena Cathedral now stands was originally occupied by Madrid's first mosque, then by a church dedicated to one of Madrid's patron saints, Santa María de la Almudena. Plans for a grand new church began in the 16th century after King Philip II made Madrid the capital of Spain.
I walked over to the Capilla of Obispo and the adjoining Church of San Andres. This is located in one of the oldest and most characteristic quarters of Medieval Madrid.
Then over to the Cathedral San Isidro, the cathedral of the Jesuits. Construction started in 1622, but during therein of Charles III (1767), the Jesuits were expelled from Spain for “stirring up the people.” It was then designated the Cathedral of Madrid in 1885, pending the completion of Cathedral de la Almudana.
No visit of Madrid is complete without a stop at the Plaza Mayor. The planning of this site goes back to Philip II, but it did not start until the reign of Philip III; hence the statue of Philip III in the photo below. The Plaza Mayor now has a ring of old and traditional shops and cafes under its porticoes.
The Plaza Mayor has been the scene of multitudinous events: markets, bullfights, soccer games, public executions, and, during the Spanish Inquisition, "autos de fe" against supposed heretics and the executions of those condemned to death (right).
Included breakfast at the hotel was good. The self guide tour of the city continued, this time to the east. First stop the Puerta del Sol (gate of the sun).
Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the area was an important meeting place: as the goal for the couriers coming from abroad and other parts of Spain to the Post Office, it was visited by those eager for the latest news. The Casa de Correos. was erected in 1768 as the city's main post office.
The Puerta del Sol is also the location of the most famous symbol of Madrid: a 20 ton statue of a bear eating fruits from a tree.
Ten streets radiate out from this square. I chose to seek out the Congreso de la Disputados, or the House of Parliament. This legislative building has a neoclassical style, and was built between 1843 and 1850.
The two bronze lions that flank the staircase were cast from melted down canons that the Spanish had captured during the Moroccan campaign of 1859-60.
Next came the Paseo del Prado. Spain’s best artists worked on the plaza from 1775-1762. This great parklike boulevard extends along the Museum Del Prado and encompasses the Fountain of Neptune, the Apollo Fountain and the Fountain Cibeles.
The giant Gothic church and convent of San Jeronimo (Jerome) overlooks the Prado. It was built by order of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella in 1503. It was destroyed in the Napoleonic occupation of Madrid. In 1808 the monks were expelled from the monastery and French troops were quartered in the monastery, causing major damage to the building, and the church was almost left in ruins. Over the years much reconstruction took place.
I continued on to the Jardines del Retiro which was built near Jeronimo It was called Buen Retiro (pleasant retreat) where the sovereigns retreated. In 1868 it became municipal property for a public park.
Statues depicting Spanish rulers
Monument to Alfonso XII
Close-up of Alfonso XII
Palacio of Crystal
Paseo de Recoletos is a wide boulevard in central Madrid leading from Plaza de Cibeles to Plaza de Colón.
Plaza de Cibeles
Palacio de Telecomunicaciones on Plaza de Cibeles.
Plaza de Colón (Columbus).
I started back to the hotel on the Calle de Alcala.
Up to this imposing 19th century building called the Metropolis. It was a grandiose city bank on Gran Via.
I ate a lunch at a nearby shop on Gran Via and then returned to my hotel.
That evening I took in a show featuring flamenco dances and folk dances at the Florida Park (near
Buen Retiro). The costumes were fabulous and the traditional dances were performed by skillful
professionals. Three hour show!
Some of the greatest names in flamenco have performed here.
I SKIPPED THE FOLLOWING THREE DAYS TO TREAT THEM LATER IN ORDER TO KEEP THE MADRID WALKS ALL IN THIS BLOG.
March 7th, Tuesday Segovia
March 8th Wednesday Avila & El Escorial
March 9th Thursday, Toledo
March 10th, Friday
I concentrated on two activities in Madrid the Monument to Columbus and the Museum El Prado.
First the Monument to Columbus - the 1886 statue to honor Christopher Columbus by sculptor Arturo Melinda. A waterfall cascades down the front part of the plaza under the monument.
At the ends of the fountain are stairs leading down under the cascade. Beneath the plaza, the roar of the fountain is amplified.
A second monument in the plaza honors the voyage of Columbus in a much more striking way. Several large structures expand across the plaza with lengthy inscriptions related to the voyage. When viewed from afar, this modern structure does have an odd nautical feel to it, like ships at sea. It also looks a bit like an anchor.
At the other side of the Plaza are the twin Torres (towers) de Colón
When I ate lunch in Spain, I usually picked up a snack from small delis or pastry shops. Often my snack included sandwiches made from jabon (sliced ham) so popular with the Spanish.
I devoted almost the whole day to visiting the famous Museo El Prado, one of the world’s greatest galleries.
Much of the credit for the rich collection goes to Charles I (V of HRE) and his son Philip II.
Representative of Peter Paul Reubens was The Three Graces,
And St. George and the Dragon.
Francisco Goya’s famous Nude Maja.
And Goya's Holy Family
El Greco, The Holy Trinity
El Greco Baptism of Christ
Titian , Emperor Charles V on Horseback
Titian, Philip II
Caravaggio, David Victorious Over Goliath
And Pradilla, Dona Juana the Madwoman Juana la Loca depicts Queen Joanna in vigil over her husband's coffin. She was taking her long dead husband (Philip the Fair) to Granada. She made the funeral cortege travel only at night, while by day the coffin was taken to a monastery. On this occasion she ordered it taken to the countryside having realized that the place where the coffin had been taken was a convent of nuns and not a monastery.
SEGOVIA, AVILA & EL ESCORIAL
March 7, Tuesday My tour to Segovia was booked at the Travel Agency around the corner from my hotel, under the name of Julia Tours. The bus trip took about an hour and a half.
The province of Segovia is one of nine that make up the Autonomous Community of Castile and León. Segovia's position on nomadic trading routes made it an important center of trade in wool and textiles. The end of the Middle Ages saw something of a golden age for Segovia, with the creation of a foundation for a powerful cloth industry. Several splendid works of Gothic architecture were also completed during this period. Isabella I was pro-claimed queen of Castile in the church of San Miguel de Segovia in 1474.
Our first site when we left the bus was the Aqueduct of Segovia, situated in the center of the city. It is the monument which has given the most fame to the city. It was constructed by the Romans between the 1st and 2nd centuries. Its purpose was transporting the water from the Acebeda River to the city. The water was transported a total of 19 km (11 miles), first through an underground conduction and
later through the 166 arches that compose the aqueduct. The entire aqueduct was constructed without mortar or cement.
From here we began with a tour of the Cathedral. Right at the highest point of the city stands this impressive Cathedral of Segovia. Built between 1525 and 1577, this is the last Gothic temple of the 16th century. This cathedral, often refereed as the “Lady of Cathedrals," is characterized by its unique floor layout surrounded by radial chapels.
We walked over to the Alcazar. The building, due to its military use, was constructed over a rock and possesses numerous secret pathways that go down to the river and connect with other buildings in the city.
From the Alcázar one can enjoy the view of the city walls of the 6th century. The city walls are very well preserved and the three old city entrances can still be seen: the gate of San Andrés, San Cerbian, and Santiago.
Princess Isabella, later Queen Isabella the Catholic (married to Ferdinand), lived in the Alcazar in the 1470s. HRE Charles V was indifferent to the palace, but Philip II carried out wide-reaching alterations. Isabella is pictured on the right.
In the Throne Room were paintings of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. The room has two thrones. The couple were married in Segovia.
We ate lunch in Segovia by the aqueduct. Later we saw a granite Road Marker with the inscription Via Rome. The Roman road led to Segovia. See picture at right.
Just seven miles from Segovia we explored the La Granada de San Ildefonso. This royal palace was built by Philip V, the first Bourbon King of Spain (grandson of Louis XIV). Originally the site was used as a hunting lodge but converted into a palace by Philip I (but destroyed by fire). Philip V decided to construct this residence. The French born king left a legacy more French than Spanish. Facade to the right.
Palacio Real Courtyard
The Versailles-style formal gardens.
We visited the interior of the palace with its many rooms furnished with elegant furnishings, but I was more enamored with the grounds outside.
Amazingly, the pipes in the fountains are still fully functional, however only a few fountains operate on a daily basis. Only on San Luis Day, do all twenty-six fountains operate.
We returned to Madrid for dinner.
March 8, Wednesday
Again I signed up with Julia Tours. This time we were to explore the city of Avila, El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen. En route to Avila, I videotaped this romanesque church in Villacastin.
We reached Avila and encountered her stout walls. Ancient hill-top Avila has been declared a Unesco "Heritage of Mankind" city, and is famous for its intact city walls and 90 towers dating back to the 11th century. Our bus circled the city so we could observe the Romanesque walls.
We started at the Cathedral (upper right on map) and worked our way towards the Convent of Saint Teresa.
The Cathedral was planned as a cathedral fortress, its apse being one of the turrets of the city walls.
Most of the cathedral that can be seen today was built between the 12th and 4th centuries. During this time, the trend moved from Romanesque to Gothic styles, and the transition can be clearly seen in the interior.
Just outside the cathedral were residences (palacios) of once wealthy and influential people. The city has placed these residences up for occupancies. Some of them have been transformed into fashionable hotels, like the Gran Hotel pictured here.
We continued on to the 16th century Church of St. John (Juan) the Baptist on the City Square (see map) where Teresa was baptized on April 4, 1515.
And then on to the Church (right) and Convent (below) of Santa Teresa. Saint Teresa was born into a noble family of Avila. Religiously inclined from a young age, Teresa was fascinated by the lives of the saints and ran away several times to seek martyrdom at the hands of the Moors. The hill above Ávila marks the spot where her father brought her back at the age of seven. In 1534, at the age of 19, Teresa left home to join the Carmelite Monastery of the Incarnation in Ávila. In the cloister, Teresa practiced severe asceticism and mystical contemplation.
In the museum are relics of Teresa -- a finger from her right hand (encased in a shrine-like object), letters, and the scourge she used upon herself. One case enclosed a wooden pillows she used.
The spot where she was born has been converted into a tiny ornate chapel, though it has only one pew. Through a nearby window you can gaze upon her private garden, complete with the original roses.
We must have visited every site associated Santa Teresa and it was time to move on.
The drive from Avila to El Escorial was pleasant, although the countryside seemed rather semi-arid. As we descended from the mountains, the El Escorial monastery palace of Philip II came into view. After winning the Battle of St. Quentin on August 10, 1557, (Saint Lawrence’s day), and as his way of thanking God for the victory, Philip II started construction on the San Lorenzo de El Escorial.
The El Escorial symbolizes the grandeur of the Spanish Empire during its 16th century Golden Age. It took more than 1,500 workers 21 years to complete this monument. The gardens and landscape were very beautiful, but the grey granite exterior of the building itself was quite austere.
The interior of the palace was not austere. Philip II, like his father Charles V, was a patron of art. To the right is the library.
The coffins of the kings are located in the Pantheon de los Reyes. The marble caskets of almost all the Spanish monarchs since Charles V can be found here, as well as a number of relatives. The stairway leading down to the crypt is adorned in marble, as is the crypt itself.
The most interesting rooms are the Alcoves of Philip II, from which he had direct access to the church and in which he died on September 13, 1598; The "Cell of Philip II" is #1 on map.
The Patio of the Kings and the Basilica. This spectacular basilica has a floor in the shape of a Greek cross and an enormous cupola inspired in San Pedro del Vaticano.
Interior of Basilica.
The next site to be visited on our day-long tour was the Valle de los Caidos (The Valley of the Fallen), a memorial to those who died in the Spanish Civil War. An estimated 1 million died in the conflict from 1936-39. A huge basilica containing the tombs of soldiers from both sides has been hollowed into a mountain.
Central nave of the crypt.
Controversial burial site of Francisco Franco on the side of the altar.
March 9th, Thursday
I purchased a bus tour to Toledo from the local tourist office. After a pleasant drive through the countryside, we approached the walls of Old Town and the Bisagra. Puerta Vieja de la Bisagra is the only vestige of the Arab wall. It was the main entrance to the town and is of Moslem origins from the 9th century. Its front structure is close to the original because it was covered for many years until the new Puerta de Bisagra was reopened during the reign of Carlos V. Its facade has three horseshoe arches.
The cathedral of Toledo is one of the three 13th century High Gothic cathedrals in Spain and is considered to be the pinnacle of the Gothic style in Spain. When the city was conquered by the Arabs. it was converted into a mosque, but then in the 1085 Re-conquest it became Christian again. The present building was constructed mainly in 1227.
High Altar and Gothic reredos.
Church (chapel) of St. Ildefonso
El Greco painting “The Burial of Senor de Orgas” in Church of Santa Tome. Some say this El Greco’s greatest painting. The page holding the torch and pointing with his index finger is El Greco’s son. El Greco’s self portrait is the seventh person from the left (above the hand) who is looking at you.
We visited various sites to see paintings by El Greco. There were a number at the Tavera Hospital, including the Baptism of Christ.
We viewed this one, The Disrobing of Christ, at the Toledo Cathedral.
Toledo, as all of the sites visited, GREAT!
