2006 Israel Part I Jerusalem, Masada & Dead Sea

GATE ONE TRAVEL

January 14-24, 2006

Fred took digital camera shots. Some historical information gleaned from Google; other info from our Jewish guide. Fred was accompanied by Annette's sister and her husband Mike. We were all motivated by Holy Land sites PLUS the unbelievable low price of $ 899 which included air fare, land tour, lodging, guide and some meals. The price of air alone usually costs that much.

All Bible passages in the journal are underlined. 


Day 1, Tues Mike, Irma and Fred checked in at MSP Lindbergh Terminal for International flights and departed JFK at 5:55 p.m. for flight via Madrid and Barcelona to Tel Aviv

Day 2, Wed We arrived at Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv 3:40 p.m. To our surprise we were greeted by the Gate 1 representative even before customs. The agent summoned a driver for the three of us and we were soon on our way to Jerusalem. A recently built modern highway allowed us to reach Jerusalem in approximately half an hour. The city is located between the Mediterranean Sea and the Dead Sea, about 93 km (about 58 mi) east of Tel Aviv-Yafo. The city straddles the Judean Hills, which run
north-south in Israel, and is built on a cluster of hilltops and valleys.

Our lodging for the next four days was to be the conveniently located Ariel Hotel (right). Around 7 p.m. we met our Jewish guide Areh in the lobby. He took us by bus to the sister hotel for an orientation session and a welcome drink.

Day 3, Thurs The breakfast buffet provided by the Ariel Hotel was quite varied and included unusual items like vegetable salads and olives. Very satisfying. Fortified with an ample breakfast, we began our day at 8 a.m. Uri, our bus driver for the duration of the trip, drove us along the Green Line along the walled city. Before the 1967 War, this was the buffer zone between the Jews and the Old City. Before the war, those who wanted to visit the Arab controlled Old City had to go around the West Bank and enter through Jordan. Our bus headed upward to Mount Scopus for a panoramic view of the city of Jerusalem. It was a beautiful day for a wonderful view here from the Mount of Olives.

A sturdy wall was constructed around the Old City in AD 1538 during the reign of the Ottoman ruler Suleyman I. The shining Dome of the Rock clearly stood out and one could pinpoint the other major historic sites from that reference point. Outside of the walled Old City was modern Jerusalem. Gethsemane, our target for Saturday afternoon, was situated at the foot of the Mount of Olives.

From Mount Scopus, Uri took us down to the walled Old City. Before entering, our guide had us assemble outside for a lecture. Then we entered through the Dung Gate (right).

Security was tight and our group had to go through a search and have our belongings scanned.

Then before us was the famous West or Wailing Wall.

The holiest site in Judaism, this is all that remains of the great temple built to hold the Ark of the Covenant (built at this location by Herod the Great in 20 BC). The Herodian stones are identifiable by their carved frames. Byzantine, Arab and Turks added the smaller stones above. Jews traditionally visit the wall to lament the destruction of the First and Second Temples and to offer prayers. Kvitlich are prayers written on pieces of paper and placed in chinks in the wall. Jews had been forbidden access to the Temple Mount during the Ottoman period.

Many authorities believe The Ark of the Covenant is located under the Temple Mount. Some Jews will not ascend the Mount because of the chance that they will walk on the Holy of Holies, which is off limits until the Messiah arrives. Many hold that Abraham nearly sacrificed his son Isaac on this site

Genesis 22:2 Then God said, "Take your son, your only son, Isaac, whom you love, and go to the region of Moriah. Sacrifice him there as a burnt offering on one of the mountains I will tell you about."

According to Muslims, Ishmael not Isaac was the intended object of sacrifice. Also, Muhammad was reported to have come to the Temple Mount and ascended to heaven from the point of the near sacrifice. El Aksa Mosque is on the southernmost side of the Temple Mount, built in AD 720. The Dome of the Rock is the third most important Muslim place of prayer after Mecca and Medina. Calif Abd al Malik commissioned his architects to erect a scaled down version of the Dome. That structure, which is known as the Dome of the Chain, stands today in the shadow of its full-sized neighbor.

Our guide informed us of the restrictions that forbade women to approach the main section of the Wailing Wall reserved for men. For them a separated section to the right was available. The men’s section was filled with activity as bearded men stood before the wall with their prayers, and large groups enthusiastically celebrated bar mizpah with proud young men. Women and young girls watched the festivities of bar mizpah from the other side of a barricade. Uniformed Israeli soldiers milled around with automatic weapons to maintain security.

The area inside the walled city was divided into 4 sections, named for their dominant ethnic communities: the Muslim, (upper right) Jewish (bottom right), Christian (upper left) and Armenian quarters (lower left). The Temple Mount is the rectangular-like section (middle right). Our walking itinerary started in the Muslim quarters.

An Arab market, which ran through the Old City, gave it a crowded and bustling feel. Basically it was like a pedestrian mall because of narrow streets and restricted traffic. Irma and Mike McLean are in the foreground.

We worked our way to the Via Dolorosa in the Muslim and Christian sections where our guide pointed out the Stations of the Cross.

The Via Dolorosa, the route traditionally believed to be taken by Jesus Christ on the way to his crucifixion, leads to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The “Way of Sorrow” has more to do with tradition than historical fact, but it attracts considerable attention. We spent considerable time at the 3rd, 4th and 5th stations.





Matt 27:27-33 27 Then the governor's soldiers took Jesus into the Praetorium and gathered the whole company of soldiers around him. 28 They stripped him and put a scarlet robe on him, 29 and then twisted together a crown of thorns and set it on his head. They put a staff in his right hand and knelt in front of him and mocked him. "Hail, king of the Jews!" they said. 30 They spit on him, and took the staff and struck him on the head again and again. 31 After they had mocked him, they took off the robe and put his own clothes on him. Then they led him away to crucify him. 32 As they were going out, they met a man from Cyrene, named Simon, and they forced him to carry the cross. 33 They came to a place called Golgotha (which means The Place of the Skull. 

Finally we reached the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre stands on what is traditionally held to be the hill of Golgatha, or Calvary, where the crucifixion and burial of Jesus Christ occurred. The church is the site of significant Christian pilgrimage. Built about AD 330, the complex is carefully divided among the Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Armenian Orthodox, Coptic, Syrian, and Ethiopian churches. Fierce disputes, lasting centuries over ownership were largely resolved by an Ottoman decree issued in 1852. Still in force and known as the Status Quo, it divides custody among the various church bodies. Every day the church is unlocked by a Muslim keyholder acting a neutral intermediary.

Once inside the church, we turned to our right and climbed up a narrow circular stairway to the site of the crucifixion. An elaborate shrine was situated on a platform over the rocky surface of Calvary hill.
Through the glass around the Greek Orthodox altar can be seen the outcrop of rock venerated as site of the crucifixion.

































Matthew 27: 33-42 33 They came to a place called Golgotha (which means The Place of the Skull). 34 There they offered Jesus wine to drink, mixed with gall; but after tasting it, he refused to drink it. 35 When they had crucified him, they divided up his clothes by casting lots.36 And, sitting down, they kept watch over him there. 37 Above his head they placed the written charge against him: THIS IS JESUS, THE KING OF THE JEWS. 38 Two robbers were crucified with him, one on his right and one on his left. 39 Those who passed by hurled insults at him, sh 43 He trusts in God. Let God rescue him now if he wants him, for he said, 'I am the Son of God.' " 44 In the same way the robbers who were crucified with him also heaped insults on him. 45 From the sixth hour until the ninth hour darkness came over all the land. 46 About the ninth hour Jesus cried out in a loud voice, "Eloi, Eloi,[c] lama sabachthani?"—which means, "My God, my God, why have you forsaken me?"aking their heads 40 and saying, "You who are going to destroy the temple and build it in three days, save yourself! Come down from the cross, if you are the Son of God!" 41 In the same way the chief priests, the teachers of the law and the elders mocked him. 42 "He saved others," they said, "but he can't save himself! He's the King of Israel! Let him come down now from the cross, and we will believe in him. 

From here we went downstairs and past the Stone of Unction: This shrine is where the anointing and wrapping of Christ’s body allegedly took place after his death.

Close by was “Christ’s Tomb” inside a 1810 monument. Here a marble slab covers the rock on which Christ’s body was believed to have been laid. In the first century AD, this site consisted of a small rocky rise just outside the city walls and a disused stone quarry into whose rock face tombs had been cut. The hillside was dug away in the 4th century to allow a church to be built around the tomb. The interior is dimly lit, and queues often form at Christ’s tomb, so that the time each person can spend inside the shrine may be limited to just a few minutes. Exactly where Jesus was buried is disputed. Our guide thought it more fruitful to observe a nearby excavation of a grave site that dated to the time period.

On the third day, Jesus rose from the dead. And an angel rolled away the stone.













John 20:14-17 10 Then the disciples went back to their homes, 11 but Mary stood outside the tomb crying. As she wept, she bent over to look into the tomb 12 and saw two angels in white, seated where Jesus' body had been, one at the head and the other at the foot. 13 They asked her, "Woman, why are you crying?" "They have taken my Lord away," she said, "and I don't know where they have put him." 14 At this, she turned around and saw Jesus standing there, but she did not realize that it was Jesus. 15"Woman," he said, "why are you crying? Who is it you are looking for?" Thinking he was the gardener, she said, "Sir, if you have carried him away, tell me where you have put him, and I will get him."16 Jesus said to her, "Mary." She turned toward him and cried out in Aramaic, "Rabboni!" (which means Teacher). 17 Jesus said, "Do not hold on to me, for I have not yet returned to the Father. Go instead to my brothers and tell them, 'I am returning to my Father and your Father, to my God and your God.' " 

Leaving the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, we walked over to the Central Souk, part of the Roman Cardo, a typical Roman shopping street, in the restored Jewish Quarter. The Cardo is the reconstructed main street of Byzantine Jerusalem from the 6th century. This street, with columns along its entire length, used to be a long avenue that crossed the whole city from north to south. Today, situated 20 feet below modern street level, one part of the Cardo is a restored arcade of Jewish galleries and shops, while the other part is an open-air reconstructed street. At one point along the roofed arcade we could look down to a level surface underneath the street and see remnants from the time of the First and Second Temple (10th and 1st centuries BC). At the end of the Cardo, Areh allowed us a lunch break to sample Jewishfood. Mike and I tried out the Maccabee brand of beer.

Our late morning (early afternoon) was capped off with an interesting visit to the The Cenacle (alleged Room of the Last Supper) The room is on the upper floor of a Gothic building constructed by Crusaders to commemorate Mary’s Dormition (fell asleep peacefully at an advanced age). The room is unadorned apart from the Gothic arches dividing it















Mark 14: 22-24). 22 While they were eating, Jesus took bread, gave thanks and broke it, and gave it to his disciples, saying, "Take it; this is my body." 23 Then he took the cup, gave thanks and offered it to them, and they all drank from it. 24 "This is my blood of the covenant, which is poured out for many," he said to them. 

Beneath the Hall of the Last Supper are some small tombs venerated as King David’s Tomb. There is doubt about its authenticity, but the Hebrew scholars here were quite fervent in their observances.

1 Kings 2:1-2,10 1 When the time drew near for David to die, he gave a charge to Solomon his son. 2 "I am about to go the way of all the earth," he said. "So be strong, show yourself a man, 3 and observe what the LORD your God requires: Walk in his ways, and keep his decrees and commands, his laws and requirements, as written in the Law of Moses, so that you may prosper in all you do and wherever you go, 4 and that the LORD may keep his promise to me: 'If your descendants watch how they live, and if they walk faithfully before me with all their heart and soul, you will never fail to have a man on the throne of Israel.' 10 Then David rested with his fathers and was buried in the City of David. 

Today the entrance hall is used as a synagogue. According to tradition it was here that Christ washed the feet of his Disciples after the Last Supper

(John 13: 1-17). 4 So he got up from the meal, took off his outer clothing, and wrapped a towel around his waist. 5 After that, he poured water into a basin and began to wash his disciples' feet, drying them with the towel that was wrapped around him. 

Our waiting bus was ready to take us to our next destination, the Yad Vashem.Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Martyrs' and Heroes' Remembrance Authority, which was established in 1953 by an act of the Israeli Knesset.

Since its inception, Yad Vashem has been entrusted with documenting the history of the Jewish people during the Holocaust period, preserving the memory and story of each of the six million victims, and imparting the legacy of the Holocaust for generations to come Some of the Gate 1 group visited the Children's Memorial, hollowed out from an underground cavern, where memorial candles, a customary Jewish tradition to remember the dead, are reflected infinitely in a dark and somber space. This memorial is a tribute to the approximately one and a half million Jewish children who perished during the Holocaust.

Day 4, Fri Today we took an optional full day tour through the Judean Desert and along the shores of the Dead Sea to Masada.

We stopped en route at a cosmetic shop for rest rooms and a sales presentation on beauty products from the Dead Sea.

At Masada (also spelled Messada) we ascended via cable car to the top of the mesa-like mountain.

The word Masada means "fortress" in Hebrew. The cliff's remoteness from human habitation and difficult approach made it an ideal location for a fortress. Two fortified palaces were built here in the 1st century BC by the Judean king Herod the Great.
After Herod's death, Masada was occupied by a Roman garrison. Jewish zealots captured it in AD 66. From AD 66-70, Masada became a refuge for Jewish zealots revolting against Roman rule. After the Romans conquered Jerusalem in AD 70 and destroyed the Second Temple, about 1000 men, women, and children escaped to Masada. At the end of AD 72, the Romans set out to conquer Masada, the last point of Jewish insurrection. The Roman camp (left side of photo) consisted of some 10,000-15,000 Roman soldiers and Jewish prisoners.

Eight Roman army units, moved upward by a stone and gravel ramp on the side of the cliff. They used Jewish slaves as laborers in order to prevent the Zealots from shooting them down as they built the ramp.

The Jewish zealots fought the approaching army off with stones. When the Romans finally succeeded to breach the wall at the top of the mountain, the Jewish zealots knew they had lost the fight. All but seven Jews killed themselves rather than surrender to slavery.

Areh walked us around the ruins which Israeli archaeologist Yigael Yadin excavated in 1963-65. He drew attention to the ambitions of Herod in his undertaking here, the evidence of Jewish presence, the Roman siege camps below, the massive earthen ramp, and the complex water system. At the conclusion of our visit we descended via cable car to a restaurant area for dinner.







The Dead Sea before us is a salt lake bounded on the west by Israel and on the east by Jordan. The surface of the Dead Sea is at 400 m (1312 ft) below sea level, making it the lowest water surface on earth. The lake is 76 km (47 mi) long and has a maximum width of about 16 km (about 10 mi). The Dead Sea is fed mainly from the north by the Jordan River. The lake has no outlet. Fresh water evaporates quickly from the sea due to the hot desert climate leaving behind a sea which is seven times as salty as the ocean. It is called the Dead Sea because the high concentration of salt makes it impossible for life of any sort, except for a few kinds of microbes, to live. At a depth of 305 m (1000 ft), the Dead Sea contains approximately 27 percent solid substances: sodium chloride (common salt), magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium bromide, and many other substances.

People can easily float on the surface of the Dead Sea due to the density of solids in the water. Chemical products such as potash, bromine, gypsum, and salt are extracted inexpensively from the Dead Sea making the lake economically valuable. In addition, the shores of the Dead Sea are of growing importance as a winter health resort.

As with so many other sites in Israel, the Dead Sea has ties to biblical history. The sites of the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah are believed to lie beneath the lake.

Genesis 19:26 26 But Lot's wife looked back, and she became a pillar of salt.

Genesis 19:24 24 Then the LORD rained down burning sulfur on Sodom and Gomorrah —from the LORD out of the heavens. 

On the way back we traveled along the banks of the Dead Sea to the spa resort of Ein Gedi. Our group was encouraged to float in the Dead Sea, to apply healthy mud to our skin, and to bathe in the hot mineral baths.

The area is famous as a lush oasis in an otherwise barren landscape. En Gedi is mentioned in the Bible for its beauty.

(Song of Solomon 1-14) My lover is to me a cluster of henna blossoms from the vineyards of En Gedi 

Ein Gedi is also mentioned as a refuge of David who was fleeing Saul

1 Samuel 24 1 After Saul returned from pur-suing the Philistines, he was told, "David is in the Desert of
En Gedi." 2 So Saul took three thousand chosen men from all Israel and set out to look for David and his men near the Crags of the Wild Goats. 






Day 5, Sat Jewish Sabbath

After a complete and healthy breakfast, we headed out for our morning optional tour of David’s Citadel. The bus dropped us off at the Joppa Gate. Our guide led us along the Byzantine wall to a “waste dump" where material had been cast from the wall. Areh called this trash an archeologist’s treasure trove. After a lecture period, he led through the Joppa Gate (narrow and L-shaped to slow attackers) and into the Citadel.

The present day structure dates principally from the 14th century and includes additions made by Suleyman the Magnificent. However, excavations have revealed remains dating back to the 2nd century before Christ, and indicates that there was a fortress here from Herodian times. This supports the view that this the most likely site of Christ’s trial and condemnation.

John 19: 13-16 13 When Pilate heard this, he brought Jesus out and sat down on the judge's
seat at a place known as the Stone Pavement (which in Aramaic is Gabbatha). 14 It was the day of Preparation of Passover Week, about the sixth hour. "Here is your king," Pilate said to the Jews. 15 But they shouted, "Take him away! Take him away! Crucify him!" "Shall I crucify your king?" Pilate asked. "We have no king but Caesar," the chief priests answered. 16 Finally Pilate handed him over to them to be crucified. 


We climbed up to the ramparts to walk along the city walls. We had a terrific view of the Old City and major landmarks like Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Temple Mount, Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, etc.

Our guide took us through the museum to walk around the displays. By now, it was time to eat. Areh led us to a restaurant in the Old City where he had us fleeced ($18 each for a salad), but the food was Jewish and it was good. Our fare was hummus (mashed chick-peas, garlic, lemon and a sesame concoction) with pitas and finely chopped mix of tomatoes and cucumbers, garnished with oil and vinegar.

Now we were ready for optional tour number two. This tour was added by popular request to see sites associated with the Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane.

The first stop took us to St. Peter in Gallicantu east of Mount Zion, on the slopes overlooking the City of David and the Kidron valley. This church commemorates the site where Peter denied Christ which fulfilled the prophesy.


Mark 14:72 72 Immediately the rooster crowed the second time.[a] Then Peter remembered the word Jesus had spoken to him: "Before the rooster crows twice[b] you will disown me three times." And he broke down and wept. 

The remains of some Herodian architecture have been discovered under the church and in the garden there still exists part of a Herodian stairway in use in Christ’s time, which once connected the city to the Kidron valley and Gethsemane.

Inside the church was a beautiful painting with the inscription: “Non Novi Illum” from Luke 22:57
But he denied it. "Woman, I don't know him," he said. 

Below the church was the pathway that it was said thatt Peter took to Gethsemane.

Back in the bus, we headed to the (first) church of the ascension. or Church of the Paternoster. Its name meaning “Our Father,” this church was built above a grotto where Christ is believed to have taught the Lord’s Prayer. Our Gate 1 group recited the Lord’s Prayer here in unison.

Today the 19th century church is famous for the tiled panels inscribed with the paternoster in more than 60 languages.

Luke 11: 1-4 1 One day Jesus was praying in a certain place. When he finished, one of his disciples said to him, "Lord, teach us to pray, just as John taught his disciples." 2 He said to them, When you pray, say: " 'Father, hallowed be your name, your kingdom come. 3 Give us each day our daily bread. 4 Forgive us our sins, for we also forgive everyone who sins against us. And lead us not into temptation.' "





Constantine commissioned his mother to supervise construction on this site in AD 326 above a grotto where the ascension was commemorated. Our guide says this church site is more authentic than others associated with the ascension.

Acts 1:9-12 9 After he said this, he was taken up before their very eyes, and a cloud hid him from their sight. 10 They were looking intently up into the sky as he was going, when suddenly two men dressed in white stood beside them. 11"Men of Galilee," they said, "why do you stand here looking into the sky? This same Jesus, who has been taken from you into heaven, will come back in the same way you have seen him go into heaven." 12 Then they returned to Jerusalem from the hill called the Mount of Olives, a Sabbath day's walk from the city. 

Next we strolled over to the Dominus Flevit Chapel, the words which mean “The Lord wept”. The chapel was designed in the shape of a teardrop by an Italian architect in 1955 and built over a 7th century chapel.

The view of Jerusalem from the window is one that reminds one of the view Christ saw as he wept over the city.

Luke 19:41 As he approached Jerusalem and saw the city, he wept over it. 

From here we walked over to the Garden of Gethsemane, which has centuries old olive trees that date to the time of Christ.

Matt 26: 36-40 Then Jesus went with his disciples to a place called Gethsemane, and he said to them, "Sit here while I go over there and pray." 37 He took Peter and the two sons of Zebedee along with him, and he began to be sorrowful and troubled. 38 Then he said to them, "My soul is overwhelmed with sorrow to the point of death. Stay here and keep watch with me." 39 Going a little farther, he fell with his face to the ground and prayed, "My Father, if it is possible, may this cup be taken from me. Yet not as I will, but as you will." 40 Then he returned to his disciples and found them sleeping. "Could you men not keep watch with me for one hour?" he asked Peter. 

(Mark 14: 47-50. 47 While he was still speaking, Judas, one of the Twelve, arrived. With him was a large crowd armed with swords and clubs, sent from the chief priests and the elders of the people. 48 Now the betrayer had arranged a signal with them: "The one I kiss is the man; arrest him." 49 Going at once to Jesus, Judas said, "Greetings, Rabbi!" and kissed him. 50 Jesus replied, "Friend, do what you came for." Then the men stepped forward, seized Jesus and arrested him. 

Next to the Garden of Gethsemane was the Church of All Nations, also known as the Church of Agony, because it is built over a rock in the Garden of Gethsemane on which it is believed Christ prayed the night before he was arrested. Twelve nations contributed with financial assistance to build the present church. Hence the church has twelve domes (each inscribed with the national coat of arms of a country).

The center piece of the church is the Rock of Agony, where Jesus was so impassioned that he sweat drops of blood.

Luke 22-44:"Father, if you are willing, take this cup from me; yet not my will, but yours be done." 43 An angel from heaven appeared to him and strengthened him. 44 And being in anguish, he prayed more earnestly, and his sweat was like drops of blood falling to the ground. 





Many believe that when Jesus appears at his Second Coming it will be here at the foot of the Mt. of Olives. Our guide says that is the reason for many desiring to be buried in the massive cemetery here -- to be the first to greet him.

Matthew 24:31 And he will send his angels with a loud trumpet call, and they will gather his elect from the four winds, from one end of the heavens to the other. 

Some Christians, many of them Protestants, believe The Garden Tomb at Gethsemane is the burial place of Christ and they come to this garden setting to meditate. It also dates from the time of Christ and, according to the Bible, Jesus was buried in a tomb like this.

However, most authorities believe that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is more authentic. Areh took us here because of requests from a few in our group.









GO ON TO 2006 ISRAEL PART II

2006 Israel Part II Jordan River, Galilee & Joppa

Day 6, Sun

We departed Jerusalem after breakfast for Galilee via the Jordan Valley. This route allowed us to see more geography of the Holy Land. The first part of our travels took us through the Judean hills along the old road to Jericho, a road known as the "Valley of the shadow of death." This is where the story of the Good Samaritan took place.

Luke 10:30-37 30 In reply Jesus said: "A man was going down from Jerusalem to Jericho, when he fell into the hands of robbers. They stripped him of his clothes, beat him and went away, leaving him half dead. 

31A priest happened to be going down the same road, and when he saw the man, he passed by on the other side. 32 So too, a Levite, when he came to the place and saw him, passed by on the other side. 33 But a Samaritan, as he traveled, came where the man was; and when he saw him, he took pity on him. 34 He went to him and bandaged his wounds, pouring on oil and wine. Then he put the man on his own donkey, took him to an inn and took care of him. 35 The next day he took out two silver coins[a] and gave them to the innkeeper. 'Look after him,' he said, 'and when I return, I will reimburse you for any extra expense you may have.' 36"Which of these three do you think was a neighbor to the man who fell into the hands of robbers?" 

The bus route took us around Jericho (now under Palestinian authority) where Joshua fought his famous battle. 

Joshua 6: 1-5 1 Now Jericho was tightly shut up because of the Israelites. No one went out and no one came in. 2 Then the LORD said to Joshua, "See, I have delivered Jericho into your hands, along with its king and its fighting men. 3 March around the city once with all the armed men. Do this for six days. 4 Have seven priests carry trumpets of rams' horns in front of the ark. On the seventh day, march around the city seven times, with the priests blowing the trumpets. 5 When you hear them sound a long blast on the trumpets, have all the people give a loud shout; then the wall of the city will collapse and the people will go up, every man straight in”.

The Mount of Temptation is just West of Jericho on top of a hill in background.

Matt 4:1-11 1 Then Jesus was led by the Spirit into the desert to be tempted by the devil. 2 After fasting forty days and forty nights, he was hungry. 3 The tempter came to him and said, "If you are the Son of God, tell these stones to become bread." 4 Jesus answered, "It is written: 'Man does not live on bread alone, but on every word that comes from the mouth of God." 5 Then the devil took him to the holy city and had him stand on the highest point of the temple. 6" If you are the Son of God," he said, "throw yourself down. For it is written: 'He will command his angels concerning you, and they will lift you up in their hands, so that you will not strike your foot against a stone." 7 Jesus answered him, "It is also written: 'Do not put the Lord your God to the test" 8 Again, the devil took him to a very high mountain and showed him all the kingdoms of the world and their splendor. 9 "All this I will give you," he said, "if you will bow down and worship me." 10 Jesus said to him, "Away from me, Satan! For it is written: 'Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only." 11 Then the devil left him, and angels came and attended him.

To the southwest we could see Mt. Nebo in Jordan. Mount Nebo's highest crest reaches an altitude of 800 meters above the surrounding Belqa plateau. The other peaks are slightly lower, all of them rising from 700 meters. 

Its real fame is derived from the biblical event that occurred upon it as described in the Book of Deuteronomy: the death of the prophet Moses.

Deuteronomy 34:1 Then Moses climbed Mount Nebo from the plains of Moab to the top of Pisgah, across from Jericho. There the LORD showed him the whole land—from Gilead to Dan,

Our tour continued northward along the Jordan Valley. The Jordan is for most of its length a narrow meandering stream, impossible tonavigate by boat, especially since damming has taken place near the Sea of Galilee. After the Six- Day War of 1967, the Jordan river has been the revised boundary between Israel and Jordan. Areh said Israel will never relinquish this stretch of land, nor reduce the security outposts here. Our tour group was really struck by how the Israeli had transformed this desert area into a prosperous farming region. Because Israel assisted Jordan with technological know-how and has allowed Jordan exclusive rights to the water of the Yarmuk, the Jordanian side of the Jordan has blossomed as well. Today Jordan and Israel are on good terms.

The Jordan River is the longest and most important river in Palestine. The Bible mentions the Jordan River well over 200 times. In Hebrew it is called Yarden, meaning "the descender" which simply denotes its rapid descent from its headwaters, at more than a thousand feet above sea-level, to its mouth at the Dead Sea, at nearly 1,300 feet below sea-level. The whole distance from the Jordan's sources to the Dead Sea measures about 80 miles in a straight line, but because of the twists and turns of its lower section, its total length measures more than 200 miles.

Where the Jordan River leaves the Sea of Galilee, is Yardenit, the site where some, but not all, Christians claim that Jesus was baptized.

Matthew 3:12-16 Then Jesus came from Galilee to the Jordan to be baptized by John. As soon as Jesus was baptized, he went up out of the water. At that moment heaven was opened, and he saw the Spirit of God descending like a dove and lighting on him.





We ascended the Golan Heights via a steep winding highway and then drove parallel to the Sea of Galilee. Our guide explained why Israel wrested this high vantage point from Syria in the Six-Day War. He felt Israel could not tolerate shellings from the Golan Heights. For the pilgrim the Golan is the place where Jesus sought his last moments of peace before embarking on his final journey to Jerusalem. Three of the disciples were born on the Golan.

As here was the healing of the blind man,

Mark 8:22-24 They came to Bethsaida, and some people brought a blind man and begged Jesus to touch him. 23 He took the blind man by the hand and led him outside the village. When he had spit on the man's eyes and put his hands on him, Jesus asked, "Do you see anything?" 24 He looked up and said, "I see people; they look like trees walking around."

And the transfiguration.

Mark 9 1 And he said to them, "I tell you the truth, some who are standing here will not taste death before they see the kingdom of God come with power." 2 After six days Jesus took Peter, James and John with him and led them up a high mountain, where they were all alone. There he was transfigured before them. 3 His clothes became dazzling white, whiter than anyone in the world could bleach them.

We made a stop at an overlook to view the Sea of Galilee below us.

Directly across the sea was clearly visible the city of Tiberias.

To the north stood the majestic and snowcapped mountain of Herman. Midway to the northern end of the sea was located the city of Gadarene where the miracle of the Gadarene Swine took place here

Matthew 8:27-32 27 The men were amazed and asked, "What kind of man is this? Even the winds and the waves obey him!" 28 When he arrived at the other side in the region of the Gadarenes, two demon-possessed men coming from the tombs met him. They were so violent that no one could pass. Some distance from them a large herd of pigs was feeding. The demons begged Jesus, "If you drive us out, send us into the herd of pigs." He said to them, "Go!" So they came out and went into the pigs, and the whole herd rushed down the steep bank into the lake and died in the water.

We descended the heights and continued to Capernaum, site of a second century village and synagogue on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee.

Capernaum was an important Roman town and one of the focal points of Christ’s teaching in Galilee. It was also home to a number of his Disciples, including Simon Peter.



Matthew 4:17-19 18 As Jesus was walking beside the Sea of Galilee, he saw two brothers, Simon called Peter and his brother Andrew. They were casting a net into the lake, for they were fishermen. 19" Come, follow me," Jesus said, "and I will make you fishers of men. "


A church has been built over the ruins of what is said to have been Simon Peter’s house. Among Biblical events which took place at Capernaum are the healing of the Centurion's servant.

Luke 7 1 When Jesus had finished saying all this in the hearing of the people, he entered Capernaum. 2 There a centurion's servant, whom his master valued highly, was sick and about to die. 3 The centurion heard of Jesus and sent some elders of the Jews to him, asking him to come and heal his servant.

And the calling of Matthew to discipleship and the healing of Peter’s mother-in-law. Matthew 8:13-15 When Jesus came into Peter's house, he saw Peter's mother-in-law lying in bed with a fever. 15 He touched her hand and the fever left her, and she got up and began to wait on him.

Yet, despite the many miracles Jesus performed here he received nothing but ingratitude. So much that from the synagogue he pronounced a curse upon the city:

Matthew 11:23 And you, Capernaum, will you be lifted up to the skies? No, you will go down to the depths. If the miracles that were performed in you had been performed in Sodom, it would have remained to this day.






Nearby was the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes (built in the 1980s). Because we were pressed for time, our driver allowed us only a view from the bus. The church was built over the supposed spot from which Christ feed 5,000 followers with five loaves and two fish. The second miracle of the loaves and the fishes

Luke 9:15-17 But he said to his disciples, "Have them sit down in groups of about fifty each." 15 The disciples did so, and everybody sat down. 16 Taking the five loaves and the two fish and looking up to heaven, he gave thanks and broke them. Then he gave them to the disciples to set before the people. 17 They all ate and were satisfied, and the disciples picked up twelve basketfuls of broken pieces that were left over.

From the bus we could see the Mount of the Beatitudes and the modern Church of the Beatitudes. It was an octagonal building, to symbolize the eight Beatitudes, one of which is inscribed on each of the windows. The chapel is surrounded by an attractive column-ed portico and commands one of the best views of the lake. The hill is so-called because it is thought that here, overlooking the lake, Christ gave his Sermon on the Mount. After spending a night in solemn meditation and prayer in the lonely mountain-range to the west of the Lake of Galilee Luke 6:12 on the following morning our Lord called to him his disciples, and from among them chose twelve, who were to be henceforth trained to be his apostles Mark 3:14,15 After this solemn consecration of the twelve, he descended from the mountain-peak to a more level spot Luke 6:17 and there he sat down and delivered the "sermon on the mount" (Mt 5-7) Luke 6:20-49 to the assembled multitude. The mountain here spoken of was probably that known by the name of the "Horns of Hattin" (Kurun Hattin), a ridge running east and west, not far from Capernaum. It was afterwards called the "Mount of Beatitudes."

Matthew 5 1 Now when he saw the crowds, he went up on a mountainside and sat down. His disciples came to him, 2 and he began to teach them saying: 3 "Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. 4 Blessed are those who mourn, for they will be comforted. 5 Blessed are the meek,for they will inherit the earth. 6 Blessed are those who hunger and thirst for righteousness, for they will be filled. 7 Blessed are the merciful,for they will be shown mercy. 8 Blessed are the pure in heart,for they will see God. 9 Blessed are the peacemakers, for they will be called sons of God. 10 Blessed are those who are persecuted because of righteousness, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. 11 "Blessed are you when people insult you, persecute you and falsely say all kinds of evil against you because of me. 12 Rejoice and be glad, because great is your reward in heaven, for in the same way they persecuted the prophets who were before you.

After lunch (some had fish from the Sea of Galilee), our driver pulled along side the shore where we could touch the water.

We drove through Tiberias , a city with a population of about 35,000 located on the western shore of Lake Tiberia or the Sea of Galilee. Tiberia was a center of Jewish learning from its founding in AD 19 until the Middle Ages. The city was founded by Herod Antipas. Herod named the city for the emperor Tiberius. After the Roman destruction of the Temple at Jerusalem in AD 70, Jewish scholars began to settle in Tiberias.

We continued our drive. On the way to Nazareth the road passed through an untidy little village once called Cana and now known as Kafr Kanna, where Jesus attended a wedding feast with his mother.

John 2:1-11 1 On the third day a wedding took place at Cana in Galilee. Jesus' mother was there, 2 and Jesus and his disciples had also been invited to the wedding. 3 When the wine was gone, Jesus' mother said to him, "They have no more wine." 4 "Dear woman, why do you involve me?" Jesus replied, "My time has not yet come." 5 His mother said to the servants, "Do whatever he tells you." 


6 Nearby stood six stone water jars, the kind used by the Jews for ceremonial washing, each holding from twenty to thirty gallons.[a] 7 Jesus said to the servants, "Fill the jars with water"; so they filled them to the brim. 8 Then he told them, "Now draw some out and take it to the master of the banquet." They did so, 9 and the master of the banquet tasted the water that had been turned into wine. He did not realize where it had come from, though the servants who had drawn the water knew. Then he called the bridegroom aside 10 and said, "Everyone brings out the choice wine first and then the cheaper wine after the guests have had too much to drink; but you have saved the best till now." 11 This, the first of his miraculous signs, Jesus performed in Cana of Galilee. He thus revealed his glory, and his disciples put their faith in him.

Then we went on to Nazareth where the bus parked on a scenic overlook of the city, a city of mainly modern appearance. Our guide pointed out the heart of the Old City with its Church of the Annunciation. The huge modern-day building, completed in 1966, is constructed over a cave traditionally believed by Roman Catholics to be the site of the Annunciation. Here the Angel Gabriel announced to Mary:

Luke 1 26 In the sixth month, God sent the angel Gabriel to Nazareth, a town in Galilee, 27 to a virgin pledged to be married to a man named Joseph, a descendant of David. The virgin's name was Mary. 28 The angel went to her and said, "Greetings, you who are highly favored! The Lord is with you." 29 Mary was greatly troubled at his words and wondered what kind of greeting this might be. 30 But the angel said to her, "Do not be afraid, Mary, you have found favor with God. 31 You will be with child and give birth to a son, and you are to give him the name Jesus. 32 He will be great and will be called the Son of the Most High. The Lord God will give him the throne of his father David, 33 and he will reign over the house of Jacob forever; his kingdom will never end." 


34 "How will this be," Mary asked the angel, "since I am a virgin?" 35 The angel answered, "The Holy Spirit will come upon you, and the power of the Most High will overshadow you. So the holy one to be born will be called[c] the Son of God. 36 Even Elizabeth your relative is going to have a child in her old age, and she who was said to be barren is in her sixth month. 37 For nothing is impossible with God." 38"I am the Lord's servant," Mary answered. "May it be to me as you have said." Then the angel left her.

Jesus walked the streets of Nazareth, as well as Biblical figures Elijah, Deborah, and Solomon. The main events in Jesus' life, as described in the New Testament, was his childhoodand early manhood (Luke 2:39-52, Matthew 2:19-23),

And there was the clash with his fellow citizens (Matthew 13:54-58, Luke 4:17-30).








From the very first events relating to the life of Jesus in Nazareth, we learn that the people of his village did not approve of his preaching in the synagogue.

Luke 4 24"I tell you the truth," he continued, "no prophet is accepted in his hometown. 25I assure you that there were many widows in Israel in Elijah's time, when the sky was shut for three and a half years and there was a severe famine throughout the land. 26 Yet Elijah was not sent to any of them, but to a widow in Zarephath in the region of Sidon. 27 And there were many in Israel with leprosy[ in the time of Elisha the prophet, yet not one of them was cleansed—only Naaman the Syrian." 28 All the people in the synagogue were furious when they heard this. 29 They got up, drove him out of the town, and took him to the brow of the hill on which the town was built, in order to throw him down the cliff. 30 But he walked right through the crowd and went on his way.

Some have alleged that this sentence in Luke is not correct, as Nazareth is built in a valley and not on a mountain. But the valley of Nazareth is on a mountain overlooking the Jezreel valley - and the mountain of the precipice overlooks the valley of Nazaret and the valley of Jezreel. Upon that wide plain Gideon triumphed and Saul and Jonathan were overthrown.

Nazareth was a small and insignificant village during the period of Jesus. It seems that the words of Nathaniel of Cana characterized the site's seeming insignificance.
John 1:46 "Nazareth! Can anything good come from there?"

It is needless to say that the people of Judea had never heard of Nazareth. And from this we understand the reason that Pontius Pilate decorates the cross with the sign "Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews" (John 19:19) - meaning that the "King of the Jews" is from "nowhere." The early name "Nazarenes" given to the Christians might have been a derogatory nickname that the people of Judea gave to the followers of Jesus (Matthew 26:71, Acts 6:38). Jesus was known throughout the Galilee as Jesus, the prophet from Nazareth in Galilee. (Matthew 21:11 - but for those not from the Galilee, this name had no meaning for them. As he grew, he must have been taken to Church of the Synagogue in the center of town where he “increased in wisdom and stature” and later proclaimed himself to be the Messiah of Isaiah’s prophecy (Luke 4: 16-30).

The Valley of Jezreel, as it is seen from Nazareth, is a natural battlefield. This fact must have influenced the idea of "...all the holders of swords shall fall by the sword," (Matthew 28:52).

Mount Tabor rises softly, but powerfully, from within the verdant triangle of the Jezreel Valley. A uniquely rounded mountain at an altitude of about 1800 feet, its contours may be viewed and unmistakably identified from miles in any direction. Mt. Tabor is the sight where the prophetess Deborah led the Israelites to victory over Sisera’s army.

Judges 4:13-15 13 Sisera gathered together his nine hundred iron chariots and all the men with him, from Harosheth Haggoyim to the Kishon River. 14 Then Deborah said to Barak, "Go! This is the day the LORD has given Sisera into your hands. 
Has not the LORD gone ahead of you?" So Barak went down Mount Tabor, followed by ten thousand men. 15 At Barak's advance, the LORD routed Sisera and all his chariots and army by the sword, and Sisera abandoned his chariot and fled on foot.

As we approached the vibrant city of Haifa darkness had set in, but we could see to the northeast, across the sparkling waters of the harbor, the medieval walled fortress city of Acre. Haifa is a northern city and main seaport of Israel.

The city is located at the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea, and lies on and around the slopes of Mount Carmel.
1 Kings 18:19-24 19 Now summon the people from all over Israel to meet me on Mount Carmel. And bring the four hundred and fifty prophets of Baal and the four hundred prophets of Asherah, who eat at Jezebel's table." 20 So Ahab sent word throughout all Israel and assembled the prophets on Mount Carmel. 21 Elijah went before the people and said, "How long will you waver between two opinions? If the LORD is God, follow him; but if Baal is God, follow him." But the people said nothing. 22 Then Elijah said to them, "I am the only one of the LORD's prophets left, but Baal has four hundred and fifty prophets. 23 Get two bulls for us. Let them choose one for themselves, and let them cut it into pieces and put it on the wood but not set fire to it. I will prepare the other bull and put it on the wood but not set fire to it. 24 Then you call on the name of your god, and I will call on the name of the LORD. The god who answers by fire—he is God." Then all the people said, "What you say is good."

From here we took the coastal road to Tel Aviv. The Center Hotel where we stayed was situated on a small quiet street, right on the famous Dizengoff square in the heart of Tel-Aviv and only a few blocks from the beach. The hotel was a beautiful spot to relax in "The City that Never Stops".

We naturally wanted to visit the square our hotel was located on -- Dizengoff Square. It sported a drum-like fountain (see picture of hotel) by Israeli artist Yaako Agam, which has water jets programmed to perform hourly light and music shows.

Day 7 Mon This morning, we took an optional tour of Tel Aviv and Jaffa. We drove along Dizengoff Street to Yitzhak Rabin Square. Rabin Square was named after the Prime Minister who was assassinated outside City Hall. He had compromised in signing the “Oslo Accord” between himself and Yasser Arafat.

We continued on to Jaffa. During Israel's War of Independence, Jewish forces took control of Jaffa and most of its Arab population fled. According to the Bible, Jaffa (then called Joppa) was founded in the wake of the great flood by Noah’s son Japheth. According to the Bible, the recalcitrant prophet Jonah shirked his divine calling and fled to Jaffa to catch that fated boat to Tarshish

Jonah 1:3 But Jonah rose up to flee unto Tarshish from the presence of the LORD, and went down to Joppa; and he found a ship going to Tarshish: so he paid the fare thereof, and went down into it, to go with them unto Tarshish from the presence of the LORD.

A monument of a whale (Jonah’s “great fish”) was situated by the old city wall of Joppa which provided a nice setting for those with cameras.














Our guide took us to an overlook of the ancient harbor Jaffa makes an appearance in the NT as well. Archaeologists have unearthed remains dating back to 20th century BC.

Acts 9:36 Now there was at Joppa a certain disciple named Tabitha, which by interpretation is called Dorcas: this woman was full of good works and alms deeds which she did. {Dorcas: or, Doe, or, Roe} 37 And it came to pass in those days, that she was sick, and died: whom when they had washed, they laid [her] in an upper chamber. 38 And forasmuch as Lydda was nigh to Joppa, and the disciples had heard that Peter was there, they sent unto him two men, desiring [him] that he would not delay to come to them. {delay: or, be grieved} 39 Then Peter arose and went with them. When he was come, they brought him into the upper chamber: and all the widows stood by him weeping, and shewing the coats and garments which Dorcas made, while she was with them. 40 But Peter put them all forth, and kneeled down, and prayed; and turning [him] to the body said, Tabitha, arise. And she opened her eyes: and when she saw Peter, she sat up. 41 And he gave her [his] hand, and lifted her up, and when he had called the saints and widows, presented her alive. 42 And it was known throughout all Joppa; and many believed in the Lord. 43 And it came to pass, that he tarried many days in Joppa with one Simon a tanner.

It was here Peter had a vision telling him that the Gospel extended outside the confines of Judaism.

Acts 10:3-29 3 One day at about three in the afternoon he had a vision. He distinctly saw an angel of God, who came to him and said, "Cornelius!" 4 Cornelius stared at him in fear. "What is it, Lord?" he asked. The angel answered, "Your prayers and gifts to the poor have come up as a memorial offering before God. 5 Now send men to Joppa to bring back a man named Simon who is called Peter. 6 He is staying with Simon the tanner, whose house is by the sea." 7 When the angel who spoke to him had gone, Cornelius called two of his servants and a devout soldier who was one of his attendants. 8 He told them everything that had happened and sent them to Joppa. 9 About noon the following day as they were on their journey and approaching the city, Peter went up on the roof to pray. 10 He became hungry and wanted something to eat, and while the meal was being prepared, he fell into a trance. 11 He saw heaven opened and something like a large sheet being let down to earth by its four corners. 12 It contained all kinds of four-footed animals, as well as reptiles of the earth and birds of the air. 13 Then a voice told him, "Get up, Peter. Kill and eat." 14"Surely not, Lord!" Peter replied. "I have never eaten anything impure or unclean." 15 The voice spoke to him a second time, "Do not call anything impure that God has made clean." 16 This happened three times, and immediately the sheet was taken back to heaven. 17 While Peter was wondering about the meaning of the vision, the men sent by Cornelius found out where Simon's house was and stopped at the gate. 18 They called out, asking if Simon who was known as Peter was staying there. 19 While Peter was still thinking about the vision, the Spirit said to him, "Simon, three[a] men are looking for you. 20 So get up and go downstairs. Do not hesitate to go with them, for I have sent them." 21 Peter went down and said to the men, "I'm the one you're looking for. Why have you come?" 22 The men replied, "We have come from Cornelius the centurion. He is a righteous and God-fearing man, who is respected by all the Jewish people. A holy angel told him to have you come to his house so that he could hear what you have to say." 23 Then Peter invited the men into the house to be his guests .The next day Peter started out with them, and some of the brothers from Joppa went along. 24 The following day he arrived in Caesarea. Cornelius was expecting them and had called together his relatives and close friends. 25 As Peter entered the house, Cornelius met him and fell at his feet in reverence. 26 But Peter made him get up. "Stand up," he said, "I am only a man myself." 27 Talking with him, Peter went inside and found a large gathering of people. 28 He said to them: "You are well aware that it is against our law for a Jew to associate with a Gentile or visit him. But God has shown me that I should not call any man impure or unclean. 29 So when I was sent for, I came without raising any objection.

Our next stop was at a busy bazaar where we were permitted to stroll at our leisure. We purchased some fresh buns and salami to make tasty sandwiches for our improvised lunch. Here Fred also purchased some jewelry for Annette. The bus came to pick us up and take us to the largest diamond exchange in the world. After a tour of the exhibits and showrooms we asked our guide if the three of us could be dropped off at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art.

Areh called us a cab (and paid for it himself) and we were off. The museum had an impressive exhibit of French impressionistic artwork that included Monet, Renoir and Pizarro. Other important works included Van Dyke, Van Gogh, as well as 17th century religious art from the Netherlands.

When the museum closed we walked (about 20 minutes) to reach a McDonalds for milk shakes. Our hotel was only a few blocks further -- an easy walk.

Day 8 Tues
We had wakeup calls for 2 a.m. so we could depart for the airport at 3 a.m. The hotel gave us boxes of breakfast items to take with us. Shuttle service was provided. We left Tel Aviv on the Israel Airline to Madrid, which departed at 6:40 a.m. Our arrival at JFK was 3:35. Annette was waiting for us at the luggage carousel in Minneapolis around 8 p.m.

Summary: We had a great trip. Good weather. Excellent educational experience. Edifying. Friendly fellow travelers.

APPENDIX HISTORY OF JERUSALEM

It was here that King Solomon built the First Temple of Israel in about 1000 BC.

(2 Chronicles 3:1) Then Solomon began to build the temple of the LORD in Jerusalem on Mount Moriah, where the LORD had appeared to his father David. It was on the threshing floor of Araunah the Jebusite, the place provided by David.


Nebuchadnezzar destroyed it in 587 BC when the Jews were led into captivity

(1 Kings 5810 2 Kings 24-25). 8 On the seventh day of the fifth month, in the nineteenth year of Nebuchadnezzar king of Babylon, Nebuzaradan commander of the imperial guard, an official of the king of Babylon, came to Jerusalem. 9 He set fire to the temple of the LORD, the royal palace and all the houses of Jerusalem. Every important building he burned down. 10 The whole Babylonian army, under the commander of the imperial guard, broke down the walls around Jerusalem.

The second temple was built in 516 BC after the Jews returned from exile

(Ezra 3:11-13). And all the people gave a great shout of praise to the LORD, because the foundation of the house of the LORD was laid. 12 But many of the older priests and Levites and family heads, who had seen the former temple, wept aloud when they saw the foundation of this temple being laid, while many others shouted for joy.

Egyptian tablets (about 1400 BC) that name the city Urusalim are among the first records referring to Jerusalem. In about 1250 BC Hebrews from Egypt began their conquest of Canaan, the region to the west of the Jordan River later known as Palestine. The city was very well fortified, and it took about 200 years before the Hebrews conquered it.

In 1000 BC, David, King of Israel, finally captured the city. According to the Old Testament, King David brought the sacred Ark of the Covenant to Jerusalem and installed it in a new tabernacle, built a royal palace and other buildings, and strengthened the city's fortifications. David expanded the Kingdom of Israel and made Jerusalem its capital. However, it was his son and successor, King Solomon, who really built a magnificent temple and enlarged the city.

In 586 BC, Babylonians destroyed Solomon's Temple and exiled the Jews. In 539 BC, Persians conquered Babylonia and let the Jews return to Jerusalem. With their return to Jerusalem, a Second Temple was built on the ruins of the First Temple.

Jerusalem was captured by Alexander the Great in 333 BC. After his death, the city came under the rule first of Egyptians and later of Syrians. The Syrian ruler Antiochus IV tried to wipe out the Jewish religion. Judas Maccabeus, a member of a priestly ruling family called the Hasmonaeans, led a revolt. He liberated Jerusalem from the Syrians in 165 BC and later extended Hasmonaean rule over a large part of Judea. Jerusalem became the destination of annual Jewish pilgrimage from rest of Judea since certain religious obligations could only be fulfilled in the temple.

The Romans conquered Jerusalem in 63 BC, and made Herod the King of Judea in 37 BC. During his administration, which lasted until 4 BC, Herod rebuilt the temple, constructed a fortress, and enhanced other elements of the city. The retaining wall built by Herod for the Temple Mount stands today as the Western Wall. After Herod's reign, a series of Roman governors were installed. Pontius Pilate was the Roman governor who sentenced Jesus to be crucified for treason. In 66 AD, the Jews began to revolt against increasingly oppressive Roman rule. In 70 AD, Titus, son of the Roman emperor Vespasian, conquered Jerusalem and destroyed the Temple. The city suffered almost complete destruction during the rebellion against the Romans (132-135) led by Simon Bar Kokhba. Following the Bar Kokhva Rebellion, Jews were banished from the city.

Under the Roman emperor Hadrian, the city was rebuilt as a pagan city, and its name was changed to Aelia Capitolina. Under Roman rule, the city became a destination for Christian pilgrimage, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was built during the reign of Emperor Constantine (303-337). Roman support for churches and religious figures gave the city an increasingly Christian aspect.

In 637, Caliph Umar I conquered Jerusalem and the city came under Muslim control. The Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque were built on the Temple Mount, with the Dome of the Rock standing on the site of the First and Second Temples. The Seljuks, a Turkish dynasty, ruled Jerusalem harshly in the 11th century and continued to expand toward Europe.

In response to this expansion and Turkish control of places sacred to Christianity, Pope Urban II called on Christians to travel to the Middle East and fight to reclaim the Holy Land, especially Jerusalem. Jerusalem fell to the Crusaders in 1099. The Crusaders slaughtered many of the Muslim and Jewish residents and ruled with great cruelty until Saladin captured the city again for the Muslims in 1187. In 1517, Jerusalem was taken by the Ottomans, who ruled it until the 20th century.

During the period of Muslim control, the city was always part of a broader territory and ruled from distant capitals. The city was often poor and neglected. Population growth was slow; it is estimated that less than 10,000 lived in Jerusalem at the beginning of the 19th century. Much of the growth came from Jewish pilgrims who settled in the city. Consequently, Jews became again the majority in Jerusalem by the middle of the 19th century. Population growth led to a housing shortage. Jews began to build neighborhoods outside the Old City. Mishkanot (photo below) is the first Jewish neighborhood which was built outside of the Old City's walls.

During World War I (1914-1918), the British took over control of Jerusalem. The city was poor and underdeveloped at this time. Under the British, the Jewish-Arab struggle for control of Palestine grew in intensity, and the friction among residents of Jerusalem increased as well. Jews and Arabs both sought to gain control in Jerusalem based on feelings of historical, political, and religious rights.

In 1947 the UN recommended that the British mandate of Palestine be divided into a Jewish state and a Palestinian state, and that Jerusalem be made an international city. The UN plan was rejected, and the first Arab-Israeli war broke out in 1947. During this war, called the War of Independence by Israel, Jordanian forces joined in the fight against Israel and succeeded in occupying the eastern side of Jerusalem, including all of the Old City. At the conclusion of the fighting, Jerusalem was divided; the new state of Israel had control of West Jerusalem and Jordan controlled East Jerusalem.

During this period, the Jewish side of the city grew as Israel developed. In 1950 Israel proclaimed Jerusalem its capital. In contrast, East Jerusalem languished under Jordanian control as Jordan directed its resources to the growth of its capital, Amman. Jewish and Christian property in the Jordanian controlled Old City was heavily damaged by a combination of looting, neglect, and destruction.

The city remained divided in this manner until 1967 when Israel gained control of East Jerusalem in the Six-Day War. The boundaries of the city were redrawn to expand its size by more than 200 percent, and in 1980 the Knesset passed a law declaring reunited Jerusalem to be Israel's eternal capital. Israel offered Palestinian residents of the city Israeli citizenship, but most declined this offer. Many Palestinians living in Jerusalem retained Jordanian citizenship. Thus, while Palestinians and Israelis voted in the same Jerusalem municipal elections, they voted in different national elections (Jordanian and Israeli, respectively). In addition to this unique political situation, deep social divisions existed among Jerusalem residents.

After the Six-Day War, new neighborhoods for Israeli Jews were constructed in the area that prior to 1967 had been dominated by Arabs. By 1990 West Jerusalem was exclusively Jewish, and East Jerusalem had nearly equal populations of Arabs and Jews.

Today Jerusalem is a major issue in the Arab-Israeli conflict. While Israel claims sovereignty over all of Jerusalem, Palestinians claim at least the eastern half, including the Old City. Due to the sensitivity and centrality of the Jerusalem issue, discussions about the future of the city have been separated from the main body of the Arab-Israeli peace negotiations of 1994 and 1995. While the issue of Jerusalem's status is still to be negotiated, the city continues to grow and modernize.