Oversea Adventure Travel (OAT) Grand Circle Travel
NO PHOTOS. I USED ONLY A CAMCORDER
Illustrations from Google search. I tried to use only non-copyrighted stuff.
Day 1, Monday, February 9:
Annette took a flight to Milwaukee on Midwest Airlines 2824 (operated by Sky West). This gave her a
chance to visit old friends from our teaching days in Milwaukee while I toured India. My departure was from Minneapolis on American Airlines to Chicago O Hare. Waiting time in Chicago amounted to five hours. I comforted myself with an excellent gyro with lavish slivers of carved seasoned meat and
garnished with slices of fresh sweet onion A British Airways flight to London took around eight hours.
Time between flights consumed another seven and a half hours. The final leg of the flight was on a 747
that arrived at Delhi International Airport around 1:30 am (now Tuesday).
Day 2, Tuesday February 10:
Our OAT guide Jayanta Kar or “Jay” was waiting at the gate outside customs. I thought I might be the only member arriving at this unusual hour, but there were about ten of us that had been on the same flight. We gathered together until all were accounted for. This gave us time to introduce ourselves to each other. From the start I knew this would be a compatible group. Armed security guards were stationed at the exit, probably added as a cautionary measure following the recent terrorist attack in Mumbai (Bombay). Jay, who would prove to be an excellent guide, led us to a waiting tour bus that drove us to the Svelte Suites. This bus and a very capable driver would be with us for the next eleven days. The hotel was only about 30 miles from the airport and situated by a newly constructed mall. The evening air was a little cool, but not uncomfortable. Room keys (cards) were distributed and we headed for our rooms, actually spacious suites.
I had requested a roommate to save the single supplement charge. Gary Schempp, my assigned roommate, had arrived earlier and was waiting in our room. He proved to be a very helpful roommate and a friendly experienced traveler. He was a business owner from New Jersey and this OAT tour was just part of his jaunt around the world. His passion was photography and he was very good at it (www.GaryGS1.com).
Day 3, Wednesday, February 11:
Explore Old Delhi/Raj Ghat/Rickshaw Ride Through Chandni Chowk Bazaar/Jama Masjid Mosque
After a nice comprehensive breakfast buffet on level two, the entire group transferred to the seventh floor for a briefing and orientation session by our Trip Director. Gary volunteered additional information and distributed cards that showed the conversion rates for dollars to rupees. He also had duplicated information sheets that helped us visualize the size of India by showing the number of our respective states that would fit into the country. Earlier in the morning Gary had worked out in the exercise room and noticed that from that location one could see a shantytown below thrown together by construction workers who were employed in the massive construction projects around the hotel. Gary so informed the group and we held an impromptu photo session by the window. Actually, the whole Delhi area was swamped with construction projects because of the forthcoming Commonwealth Games awarded to the city.
That was not all. According to one source:
The teeming Indian capital of Delhi is the venue for the 2010 Commonwealth Games and as a result this city will see enormous change in services, infrastructure, transport and even local customs. For example, in February 2007 the Delhi Supreme Court issued a ban on selling freshly cooked food on roadsides, potentially affecting the eating habits of millions of people.
The Delhi High Court has ordered the government to clear the capital city of beggars (about 60,000 in 2007 even though begging is illegal in the city) who descend on pedestrians and cars at traffic lights. The Yamuna River is being cleaned; monkeys caged, street stalls banned and plans are afoot to round up the city's stray holy cows. In other words, Delhi is becoming a sanitized, albeit friendly, city.
We reassembled later on in the afternoon in our OAT tour bus. Jay gave us a briefing on Old Delhi that was our subject of the day. Even when Bombay and Madras were mere trading posts and Calcutta a village of mud huts, Delhi had been the seat of an empire for 500 years. Through the centuries, eight cities have been built on this site, by Hindu, Mughal and British rulers, each adding their own flavor.
In the old part of Delhi, we visited Raj Ghat, a beautifully serene monument on the bank of the Yamuna River. This is where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated in 1948, and here is an impressive shrine to India's best-known statesman. Herds of very friendly school children in neat uniforms were ushered by teachers around the site. See Eyewitness p. 87
The memorial stone is a simple square platform made of black stone. The last words uttered by Mahatma "Hey Ram" (Oh God”) are inscribed near the black platform. An eternal flame keeps burning in a copper urn in the Raj Ghat. In keeping with the austere simplicity in life of Mahatma Gandhi, an unostentatious memorial marks the spot. No building covers the samadhi except a low wall, which forms a compound around it.
Just across the road was the Gandhi National Museum (not on tape) crammed with memorabilia, including Gandhi’s letters and diaries. A framed plaque on the wall sets out his simple philosophy: “Non-violence is the pitting of one’s whole soul against the will of the tyrant… it is then possible for a single individual to defy the might of an unjust empire.”
We then drove by the massive Red Fort. This was not a site on our agenda, but I took a video from the bus window. The fort lies along the Yamuna River, which fed the moats that surround most of the wall. The wall at its northeastern corner is adjacent to an older fort, the Salimgarh Fort, a defense built by Islam Shah Suri in 1546. At one point in time, more than 3,000 people lived within the premises of the Delhi Fort complex. But after the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, the fort was captured by Britain and the residential palaces destroyed. It was made the headquarters of the British Indian Army. During the British period the Fort was mainly used as a cantonment and even after Independence, a significant part of the Fort remained under the control of the Army until the year 2003. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007
Our next objective was the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India. See also Eyewitness p. 85 (illustration) and p. 86 description. We took off our shoes and entered the huge complex. Commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal, and completed in the year 1656 AD, it is one of the largest and best-known mosques in India. it took six years and 5,000 workers to construct, at a cost of nearly 1,000,000 rupees. The huge square can accommodate up to 20,000 people at a Friday prayer service.
Masjid-i-Jahan Numa means "the mosque commanding a view of the world", and the name Jama Masjid is a reference to the weekly congregation observed on Friday (the yaum al-jum`a) at the mosque. The courtyard of the mosque can hold up to twenty-five thousand worshippers. The mosque also houses several relics in a closet in the north gate, including a copy of the Qur'an. The mosque faces west. Its three sides are covered with open arched colonnades, each having a lofty tower-like gateway in the centre. The mosque is about 261 feet (80 m) long and 90 feet (27 m) wide, and its roof is covered with three domes with alternate stripes of black and white marble, with its topmost parts covered with gold. Two lofty minarets, 130 feet (41 m) high, and containing 130 steps, longitudinally striped with white marble and red sandstone, flank the domes on either side. The minarets are divided by three projecting galleries and are surmounted by open twelve-sided domed pavilions. On the back of the mosque, there are four small minarets crowned like those in the front.
On April 14, 2006 two explosions occurred within Jama Masjid. The first explosion came at around 17:26 and the second around seven minutes later at around 17:33 (IST). At least thirteen people were injured in the blasts. There were around 1000 people in the mosque at the time of blasts as the day happened to be Friday, a Muslim holy day, and because it was the first Friday after Milad un Nabi, Islamic prophet Muhammad's birthday. According to official spokesmen, there was no damage to the mosque itself.
We boarded rickshaws for a short ride through the crowded lanes of the Chandni Chowk bazaar a fascinating market (literary meaning a market which shines in the moon). See illustrated map on pp. 84-5 of Eyewitness. Today, Chandni Chowk still operates as an active market place and is considered to be Asia’s largest wholesale market. We did not need to tip the drivers because we had a working agreement with Jay that he would handle all the “Mickey Mouse tipping” for the duration of the trip, if we would each give him $69. That is, except for our major driver, his helper and Jay himself. Otherwise we would
have to keep a horde of cheap notes so we could satisfy the constant demands for baksheesh during our tour.
Tonight we enjoyed a welcome dinner in a local restaurant.
Many people perceive Indian food as overwhelmingly spicy—which is not exactly the case. Of course, recipes make use of our abundant local spices—such as cardamom, cumin, turmeric, paprika, and saffron—but to us, “spicy” doesn’t necessarily mean “hot.” Instead, the spices subtly enhance the flavor of each dish’s ingredients. Wheat flatbread, called naan, and basmati rice accompany almost every meal. For appetizers, look for varieties of dhal, a lentil-based soup; and paneer, grilled cottage cheese cubes (which are tastier than you might expect!). Main dishes include tandoori chicken, cooked in a traditional clay oven, and barbecued meat dishes with rich sauces, such as chicken tikka.
Food in the north of India is meat-based with plenty of grains, breads and spices, while southern diets are much more vegetarian with hotter curries. Also in the south, many more people eat only with the fingers of their right hand. The reason, of course, is obvious where toilet paper is not used very much.
Accommodations: Svelte Personal Suites
Day 4, Thursday, February 12:
Explore New Delhi/India Gate/Qutb Minar/Home-hosted Dinner
Day 1, Monday, February 9:
Annette took a flight to Milwaukee on Midwest Airlines 2824 (operated by Sky West). This gave her a
chance to visit old friends from our teaching days in Milwaukee while I toured India. My departure was from Minneapolis on American Airlines to Chicago O Hare. Waiting time in Chicago amounted to five hours. I comforted myself with an excellent gyro with lavish slivers of carved seasoned meat and
garnished with slices of fresh sweet onion A British Airways flight to London took around eight hours.
Time between flights consumed another seven and a half hours. The final leg of the flight was on a 747
that arrived at Delhi International Airport around 1:30 am (now Tuesday).
Day 2, Tuesday February 10:
Our OAT guide Jayanta Kar or “Jay” was waiting at the gate outside customs. I thought I might be the only member arriving at this unusual hour, but there were about ten of us that had been on the same flight. We gathered together until all were accounted for. This gave us time to introduce ourselves to each other. From the start I knew this would be a compatible group. Armed security guards were stationed at the exit, probably added as a cautionary measure following the recent terrorist attack in Mumbai (Bombay). Jay, who would prove to be an excellent guide, led us to a waiting tour bus that drove us to the Svelte Suites. This bus and a very capable driver would be with us for the next eleven days. The hotel was only about 30 miles from the airport and situated by a newly constructed mall. The evening air was a little cool, but not uncomfortable. Room keys (cards) were distributed and we headed for our rooms, actually spacious suites.
I had requested a roommate to save the single supplement charge. Gary Schempp, my assigned roommate, had arrived earlier and was waiting in our room. He proved to be a very helpful roommate and a friendly experienced traveler. He was a business owner from New Jersey and this OAT tour was just part of his jaunt around the world. His passion was photography and he was very good at it (www.GaryGS1.com).
Day 3, Wednesday, February 11:
Explore Old Delhi/Raj Ghat/Rickshaw Ride Through Chandni Chowk Bazaar/Jama Masjid Mosque
After a nice comprehensive breakfast buffet on level two, the entire group transferred to the seventh floor for a briefing and orientation session by our Trip Director. Gary volunteered additional information and distributed cards that showed the conversion rates for dollars to rupees. He also had duplicated information sheets that helped us visualize the size of India by showing the number of our respective states that would fit into the country. Earlier in the morning Gary had worked out in the exercise room and noticed that from that location one could see a shantytown below thrown together by construction workers who were employed in the massive construction projects around the hotel. Gary so informed the group and we held an impromptu photo session by the window. Actually, the whole Delhi area was swamped with construction projects because of the forthcoming Commonwealth Games awarded to the city.
That was not all. According to one source:
The teeming Indian capital of Delhi is the venue for the 2010 Commonwealth Games and as a result this city will see enormous change in services, infrastructure, transport and even local customs. For example, in February 2007 the Delhi Supreme Court issued a ban on selling freshly cooked food on roadsides, potentially affecting the eating habits of millions of people.
The Delhi High Court has ordered the government to clear the capital city of beggars (about 60,000 in 2007 even though begging is illegal in the city) who descend on pedestrians and cars at traffic lights. The Yamuna River is being cleaned; monkeys caged, street stalls banned and plans are afoot to round up the city's stray holy cows. In other words, Delhi is becoming a sanitized, albeit friendly, city.
We reassembled later on in the afternoon in our OAT tour bus. Jay gave us a briefing on Old Delhi that was our subject of the day. Even when Bombay and Madras were mere trading posts and Calcutta a village of mud huts, Delhi had been the seat of an empire for 500 years. Through the centuries, eight cities have been built on this site, by Hindu, Mughal and British rulers, each adding their own flavor.
In the old part of Delhi, we visited Raj Ghat, a beautifully serene monument on the bank of the Yamuna River. This is where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated in 1948, and here is an impressive shrine to India's best-known statesman. Herds of very friendly school children in neat uniforms were ushered by teachers around the site. See Eyewitness p. 87
The memorial stone is a simple square platform made of black stone. The last words uttered by Mahatma "Hey Ram" (Oh God”) are inscribed near the black platform. An eternal flame keeps burning in a copper urn in the Raj Ghat. In keeping with the austere simplicity in life of Mahatma Gandhi, an unostentatious memorial marks the spot. No building covers the samadhi except a low wall, which forms a compound around it.
Just across the road was the Gandhi National Museum (not on tape) crammed with memorabilia, including Gandhi’s letters and diaries. A framed plaque on the wall sets out his simple philosophy: “Non-violence is the pitting of one’s whole soul against the will of the tyrant… it is then possible for a single individual to defy the might of an unjust empire.”
We then drove by the massive Red Fort. This was not a site on our agenda, but I took a video from the bus window. The fort lies along the Yamuna River, which fed the moats that surround most of the wall. The wall at its northeastern corner is adjacent to an older fort, the Salimgarh Fort, a defense built by Islam Shah Suri in 1546. At one point in time, more than 3,000 people lived within the premises of the Delhi Fort complex. But after the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, the fort was captured by Britain and the residential palaces destroyed. It was made the headquarters of the British Indian Army. During the British period the Fort was mainly used as a cantonment and even after Independence, a significant part of the Fort remained under the control of the Army until the year 2003. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007
Our next objective was the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India. See also Eyewitness p. 85 (illustration) and p. 86 description. We took off our shoes and entered the huge complex. Commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal, and completed in the year 1656 AD, it is one of the largest and best-known mosques in India. it took six years and 5,000 workers to construct, at a cost of nearly 1,000,000 rupees. The huge square can accommodate up to 20,000 people at a Friday prayer service.
Masjid-i-Jahan Numa means "the mosque commanding a view of the world", and the name Jama Masjid is a reference to the weekly congregation observed on Friday (the yaum al-jum`a) at the mosque. The courtyard of the mosque can hold up to twenty-five thousand worshippers. The mosque also houses several relics in a closet in the north gate, including a copy of the Qur'an. The mosque faces west. Its three sides are covered with open arched colonnades, each having a lofty tower-like gateway in the centre. The mosque is about 261 feet (80 m) long and 90 feet (27 m) wide, and its roof is covered with three domes with alternate stripes of black and white marble, with its topmost parts covered with gold. Two lofty minarets, 130 feet (41 m) high, and containing 130 steps, longitudinally striped with white marble and red sandstone, flank the domes on either side. The minarets are divided by three projecting galleries and are surmounted by open twelve-sided domed pavilions. On the back of the mosque, there are four small minarets crowned like those in the front.
On April 14, 2006 two explosions occurred within Jama Masjid. The first explosion came at around 17:26 and the second around seven minutes later at around 17:33 (IST). At least thirteen people were injured in the blasts. There were around 1000 people in the mosque at the time of blasts as the day happened to be Friday, a Muslim holy day, and because it was the first Friday after Milad un Nabi, Islamic prophet Muhammad's birthday. According to official spokesmen, there was no damage to the mosque itself.
We boarded rickshaws for a short ride through the crowded lanes of the Chandni Chowk bazaar a fascinating market (literary meaning a market which shines in the moon). See illustrated map on pp. 84-5 of Eyewitness. Today, Chandni Chowk still operates as an active market place and is considered to be Asia’s largest wholesale market. We did not need to tip the drivers because we had a working agreement with Jay that he would handle all the “Mickey Mouse tipping” for the duration of the trip, if we would each give him $69. That is, except for our major driver, his helper and Jay himself. Otherwise we would
have to keep a horde of cheap notes so we could satisfy the constant demands for baksheesh during our tour.
Tonight we enjoyed a welcome dinner in a local restaurant.
Many people perceive Indian food as overwhelmingly spicy—which is not exactly the case. Of course, recipes make use of our abundant local spices—such as cardamom, cumin, turmeric, paprika, and saffron—but to us, “spicy” doesn’t necessarily mean “hot.” Instead, the spices subtly enhance the flavor of each dish’s ingredients. Wheat flatbread, called naan, and basmati rice accompany almost every meal. For appetizers, look for varieties of dhal, a lentil-based soup; and paneer, grilled cottage cheese cubes (which are tastier than you might expect!). Main dishes include tandoori chicken, cooked in a traditional clay oven, and barbecued meat dishes with rich sauces, such as chicken tikka.
Food in the north of India is meat-based with plenty of grains, breads and spices, while southern diets are much more vegetarian with hotter curries. Also in the south, many more people eat only with the fingers of their right hand. The reason, of course, is obvious where toilet paper is not used very much.
Accommodations: Svelte Personal Suites
Day 4, Thursday, February 12:
Explore New Delhi/India Gate/Qutb Minar/Home-hosted Dinner
After breakfast, we headed out to see the highlights of New Delhi. We started out with the Qutub (Qutb) Minar, a spectacular example of Indo-Islamic architecture topped by a 234-foot-high tower. Begun in the 12th century, this is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and the symbol of New Delhi. See illustration on p. 94 of Eyewitness.
The tower made of sandstone, known as the seventh wonder of Hindustan and the tallest stone tower in India is a wonderful example of Indo-Islamic architecture, complete with terra-cotta frills.
Qutub Minar is in the Qutub complex at Mehrauli in South Delhi, India. The Qutub Minar is 72 meters high (237.8 ft) with 379 steps leading to the top. The diameter of the base is 14.3 meters wide while the top floor measures 2.75 meters in diameter. Surrounding the building are many fine examples of Indian artwork from the time it was built in 1193. The mosque is a patchwork fusion of decorative Hindu panels, salvaged from razed temples around the site, and Islamic domes and arches.
The nearby Iron Pillar is one of the world's foremost metallurgical curiosities, standing in the famous Qutub Complex. According to the traditional belief, any one who can encircle the entire column with their arms, with their back towards the pillar, can have their wish granted. Because of the corrosive qualities of sweat, people are no longer allowed to perform this act.
We visited a unique Kashmir carpet center to witness how these intricate hand knotted carpets are made. The staff served us tea and cookies. Alyssa Warren and her grandmother, Jean Michaud seemed to enjoy the snack. Salesmen literally rolled out the carpet. Lunch was scheduled at a local restaurant. The soup was especially tasty.
The British laid out the broad, tree-lined avenues and neat street grid of New Delhi (in contrast to the narrow alleyways of the old part of the city). Today the former "Imperial City" continues as the center of government for the world's largest democracy. As we approached the center we worked our way around a large circular fountain. Armed guards patrolled the area. We saw the buildings of India's Parliament and (from the outside) the residence of India's President, a palatial building called Rashtrapati Bhavan. See illustrated map pp. 72-73 of Eyewitness.
The Parliament House was not included in Edwin Lutyen's original plans; it was added as an afterthought after the Montague-Chelmsford Reforms was passed in 1919. Although it is large and imposing in its demeanor, the Sansad building stands almost hidden and virtually unnoticed at the end of Sansad Marg (Parliament Street), just north of Rajpath.
Sir Herbert Baker designed the building of Sansad Bhawan. The circular structure was originally known as the Circular House, when it was opened in 1927. Today it is the place where bills of the government are passed for the betterment of the nation. The design came in for a lot of flak. The January 1931 issue of Architectural Review describes it as, "The Council Chamber has been Sir Herbert's unhappiest venture. Its effect from a distance has been described. It resembles a Spanish bullring, lying like a mill wheel dropped accidentally on its side. The Parliament House is 173 m in diameter, has a columned verandah and the roof of the outer circle is supported by 247 pillars.
The Rastrapathi Bhawan, the President's residence has 340 decorated rooms, a floor area of 2,00,000 square feet; 700 million bricks and 3 million cubic feet of stone was used to built the Vice-regal Lodge as it was known then. Today it is the house of the Honorable President of India. On the Roof Top
Lutyen's claimed that the Pantheon, in Rome, inspired the dome. The dome is more than twice the height of the rest of the building. Although the lodge was completed in 1929, the copper casing of the dome was not laid until 1930.
Nearby we could see the India Gate, where a popular park surrounds a memorial to Indian soldiers who served Great Britain in World War I and Britain's 19th-century war in Afghanistan. See also p. 74 of Eyewitness.
Originally called the All India War Memorial, the India Gate is a colossal structure that commemorates the death of all the Indian soldiers who fought the 1st World War. Burning under it since 1971 is the Amar Jawan Jyoti (Flame of the immortal warrior), an eternal flame that burns day and night under the humongous arch to remind the nation of soldiers who sacrificed their lives during the Indo-Pakistan War of December 1971.The Awe-inspiring Structure of The India Gate is a 42 m high structure and on its buff sandstone are engraved the names of nearly 90,000 soldiers who died in various wars, including WW I.
Jay treated us to an extra Discovery Moment by leading us to a Sikh Temple called Bangla Sahib. As in all Sikh places of worship, visitors of all religions irrespective of their cast, color or creed are welcome. Visitors deposit their shoes and socks at the information centre near the main entrance. To go into the main complex, one needs to also cover one's head. Each one of was given a gold colored headpiece to cover our head.
We walked up a stairway and into the gold domed temple. Musicians were playing and songs were being sung. Under a canopy a mystic looking guru was performing. Obviously he was as a head priest. A bearded guide introduced himself and offered information. He seemed especially interested in Johanna and asked her if she wanted to see the holy book that was kept in a certain sacred place in the temple. He then led us to the “Langar” (community kitchen) where free food was being prepared for distribution. He had Johanna sit down among the workers and roll out dough. Outside the kitchen both men and women were preparing vegetables for meals. A hall was set up where free food was served to all devotees with no distinction of caste, creed or status. Communal meals are a feature of temple activities. From here we walked along side a sarovar or a holy pond, where people may take holy dip and pray to the Guru. The legend has it that the Guru blessed the water of the pond. Water was taken from the pond and placed into vessels. Women then served guests drinks that allegedly cured people suffering from dreaded diseases like cholera and small pox. Jay said they claimed it would cure all illnesses.
Guru Nanak started Sikhism in Punjab in the late 15th century. Followers of this religion are known as the Sikhs. There are about ten million Sikhs in India of whom over 85% live in Punjab. The majority of the remainder lives in Haryana and Delhi. They are also scattered in other parts of India. Some Sikhs have also settled in Malaysia, Singapore, east Africa, England, the United States of America and Canada. The word Sikh means disciple.
Tonight we enjoyed a home-hosted dinner with a middle-class Indian family. We broke up into two groups. Our particular hostess (“Jodi” as in Foster) was a gourmet chef who prided herself for putting on a good spread. She topped off the evening for us by singing an Indian song – and in good tune.
Accommodations: Svelte Personal Suites
Day 5, Friday 13:
Overland to Jaipur / Shahpura Palace
Luggage was placed out by 7:30 am and departure was slated for 8:30 am. After breakfast, we traveled overland (map) to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. The Gonzales looked over their map to trace our route. Once again we were exposed to the massive changes being made in the infrastructure of India and construction of new buildings in anticipation of the 2010 Commonwealth Games. Our bus kept to the left of overhead highway construction. Since we were changing from one state to another, the driver had to stop to pay the tax fee. It was interesting to see so much modern building going on with primitive workers’ lodging right next to it. On the video I caught some pigs roaming around in an encampment. A little further along we made a potty stop at a McDonald’s. Gary posed on a bench with Rodney McDonald.
We were not on the road very long when we passed by a group of Jain pilgrims walking along the highway. Jay, recognizing a discovery moment, had the bus driver pull over so we could watch them up close and take pictures. These men would not eat food and nourished themselves with the minerals of water. Some were totally naked. Literally they were homeless as they walked from temple to temple.
Beliefs relative to obtaining salvation: Ridding oneself of all karmas (good or bad) and extinguishing all attachments enables one to become enlightened/liberated from cycles of rebirth and become a God with limitless perception, knowledge, power, and happiness. One must follow the “Three Jewels” of right faith, right knowledge, and right conduct. This includes no violence to any life form, even vegetables (eaten if the plant is not killed by doing so). To hasten liberation, one must confess/repent regularly and often and live ascetically, especially in the fourth and final stage of life. They swept the ground ahead of them as to avoid walking on ants and covered their mouths with cloth to avoid swallowing insects.
Every once in a while we passed noteworthy items of interest like a herd of cattle, or a father riding in the back of a truck with furniture that will be used as a “dowry” for his daughter’s wedding, or monkeys watching the traffic go past.
We stopped en route to explore Shahpura Palace and the surrounding village. Shahpura, a small village about two hours outside Jaipur, was the stronghold of Rajput rulers of Shekhawat lineage. Though the Indian royal family lives in Jaipur, they still own and maintain this 400-year-old palace, which is in pristine condition.
The house has been converted into a hotel. The traditional Rajput architecture is a mixture of Mughal and Indian, a façade with domes and frescoes. This House is a very fine example of Shekhawati frescos and architecture.
The hotel manager walked us around to view the various accommodations. Everything was strictly first class. Then, we enjoyed a traditional Rajasthani lunch amidst our peaceful surroundings. Those who ordered a coke paid dearly for a non-included drink.
Rajasthani cooking was influenced by the war-like lifestyle of the Rajput inhabitants and the availability of ingredients in this arid region. Food that could last for several days and could be eaten without heating was preferred. Scarcities of water and fresh green vegetables have all had their effect on the cooking.
Rajasthani cuisine is predominantly vegetarian and dazzling in its variety. The spice content is on the higher side, even by Indian standards.
After lunch, we continued to Jaipur. Arriving at our hotel in the early evening, we had time to freshen up before dinner at our hotel.
Accommodations: Golden Tulip Hotel
In the heart of Jaipur, this hotel features a rooftop swimming pool with a view of the surrounding Aravalli Hills. Wooden floors and teak interiors create a beautiful indoor ambience, and all 108 rooms offer wi-fi Internet access and TV.
Day 6, Saturday, February 14:
Amber Fort / Join a local family for dinner in their home
This morning we drove just 30 minutes north of the city to explore Jaipur's Amber Fort (pronounced "am-er," with a silent "b"). The Fort-palace is a stunning and well-preserved 16th-century structure, built on four levels. See also pp. 364-366 of Eyewitness.
Amber Fort (floor plan pp. 364-365) is located in Amber, 11 km from Jaipur, Rajasthan state, India. It was the ancient citadel of the ruling Kachhawa clan of Amber, before the capital was shifted to present day Jaipur. Amber Fort is known for its unique artistic style, blending both Hindu and Muslim (Mughal) elements, and its ornate and breathtaking artistic mastery. The fort borders the Maota Lake, and is a major tourist attraction in Rajasthan. It is surrounded by fortified battlements and overlooks the Moat Lake. Ruins and remains are spread over the Aravalli hills and sprawling crenulated walls lattice the surrounding area.
Shortly after our bus parked, we started walking only to encounter an elephant on the walkway. Then appeared a snake charmer on the walk to entertain us with his swaying cobra. On the other side of the entrance were decorated elephants lumbering along up the slope with visitors on their back. OAT stopped using this type of transportation after animal protection groups demanded a change on elephant rides. This was prompted because two tourists were injured when the pachyderms they were sitting on tussled with each other. Our mode of transportation up the steep walkway would be old fashion walking. This proved to be the most arduous event of the whole trip. I thought we’d never get to the top.
Just prior to the palace entrance is a narrow staircase leading to the Kali Temple, also known as the Shila Devi Temple.
In Hinduism, the goddess Durga ("the inaccessible or "the invincible" or Maa Durga (Mother Durga) "one who can redeem in situations of utmost distress". Durga is a form of Devi, the supremely radiant goddess, a superheroine depicted as having 10 arms, riding a lion or a tiger, carrying weapons (including a Lotus flower), maintaining a meditative smile, and practicing mudras, or symbolic hand gestures. Goddess Durga is considered by Hindus to be the mother of Ganesha, and Kartikeya. She is thus considered the fiercer, demon-fighting form of Shiva's wife, goddess Parvati.
We split up into two groups. While one group went shoeless into the temple, the other sat outside guarding the shoes. No photography was allowed in the temple. Inside the temple men were making loud clanging sounds. A sweet tasting substance like cookie dough was applied (smeared) to the mouth area of the goddess in a large picture. Guests could receive red ink dots on their foreheads from the priest.
The 'Red dot' on the forehead is not always only red and nor is it always a dot. The dot is called 'Kumkum' or 'Bindi', and when worn by men it is called ' Tilak' (mark). Usually Hindu women, priests, monks and worshippers wear it. Men wear it on auspicious occasions such as Puja (ritual worship), or marriage, or Arati (waving of lights) on festive occasions such as on Bhaai-duj, Karvaa Chaud or Paadwaa or Dasshera) or while embarking on, or upon return from a voyage or a campaign. It is also worn by Jains and Buddhists (even in China). Like all Hindu symbols,'red dot' has multiple meanings that are all valid at the same time. When we arrived at our hotels to check in, a greeter often dotted us. In these instances, I think it signifies more of a blessing.
The main entrance of Amber Fort, Surajpol, leads to the Jaleb chowk, the central courtyard of the Fort where the staircase to the palace is located. In ancient times, Jaleb Chowk was the area where returning armies were paraded back home. Within the complex, Ganesh Pol (picture p. 365), an imposing gateway painted with images of the elephant-headed god, Ganesh.
Like the entire fort complex, Amber Fort is also constructed of white and red sandstone. The Fort is unique in that its outside, an imposing and rugged defensive structure, is markedly different from its inside, an ornate, lavish interior influenced by both Hindu and Muslim (Mughal) styles of ornamentation.
Among its many splendors is the Sheesh Mahal, a small room whose ceiling, covered with tiny mirrors, which looks like a sky filled with brilliant stars. The flame from a single candle reflects in the embedded tiny mirrors. Here, in Rajput times, a dancing girl held candles during a dance of love for her Maharaja. Other walls are covered with intricate carvings, mosaic, and minute mirror work.
Also a part of the complex is the Diwan-i-Am or hall of the public audience with its spectacular display of pillars (p.365). The typical merging of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles is captured in the Sukh Nivas and Jas Mandir apartments used by the concubines. The Charbagh garden has perfectly proportioned landscaping. A highlight is the pierced screen windows, which offer views from points of vantage. Several other gardens and pavilions within the sprawling spread of ramparts offer enough scope for investigating medieval lifestyles at leisure.
We left the fort via the way we came. The descent was much easier for me than the ascent. As we headed for our next site, we passed an elephant on the road, not an uncommon occurance. Shortly we came to the Jai Mahal, the Rajput style "Water Palace" which sits in the center of the Mansagar lake. The lake is often dry in the summer but winter monsoons frequently turn it into a beautiful lake filled with water hyacinths. A causeway leads to the Palace. The first four floors of this building are under water; only the top floor remains outside. Built in 1799, the palace is now abandoned, but reasonably well preserved.
We headed back into Jaipur passing more elephants in the process. We were given significant time to brose through the market. Because Jay wanted us to interact with the people, he gave us a shopping list of spices to purchase. Gary proved to be the best negotiator and acquired the goods for the lowest price. We wandered among the vegetable stands looking for good photo ops. Besides interesting people we came upon scampering monkeys. Of course the ubiquitous cattle roamed around unleashed, often tying up traffic.
Beggars presented the usual obstacle to walking. Men often relieved themselves in the open. The smell of animals and rotting garbage was often overbearing.
We found the people very receptive once conversation was initiated. What really opened people up was Gary showing them the pictures he had taken of them. Even a group of teenage boys melted under his spell. I found the architecture of the buildings very interesting, especially the third and fourth stories. They had been initially very beautiful turn of the century style, but had fallen into disrepair and sorely needed attention. No doubt the low income of these people prevented them from keeping up the property.
After our market visit it was getting dark. As our van moved along, Jay spotted a Hindu wedding celebration in progress. He had the driver pull over so we get into a discovery moment. A wedding is an important religious ceremony in the Hindu religion and one of the most important of the sixteen Hindu sanskars or sacraments. It is not only establishing the bond between two people, but also the bond between two families. If it is not celebrated at the bride's place than it is held at a common square, which is an open space like garden, courtyard of the bride's house, or a blocked-off street. In this case they used a blocked off street and headed to a large courtyard. It appeared that men had been hired to carry the large ornamental lights that were connected to each other with long extension cords. The focus of this aspect of the ceremony appeared to be having fun among family members.
No Hindu wedding would be complete without the couple's relatives taking a central role. Hindus believe that family should be together during auspicious occasions. These traditions are like the glue that holds families together. Yet the dancing ladies invited members of our OAT group to join in on their dances. Effie and Neda joined right in. The groom or Raj followed the slowly moving procession on a decorated white horse, with a dholak [drum] in the background. Traditional Hindu wedding ceremonies often lasted for four to five days.
Jay told us that when he was married he married outside his caste. His wife belonged to the highest cast (Brahmin) and he belonged to the caste just below it (Kshitriya). This could be done, but in his case, his father-in-low reduced the amount of gifts that came with the daughter. Today dowries are against the law and have been replaced with traditional “gifts” like furniture.
Caste barriers have mostly broken down in large cities, though they persist in rural areas of the country. Jay said that in remote areas “honor killings” are still carried out by family members. The group of former "untouchables" (now called Dalits) was considered either the lower section of Shudras or outside the caste system altogether. Intentionally or unintentionally, the caste system became more rigid during the British Raj, when the British started to enumerate castes during the ten-year census and codified the system under their rule. Yet, during the British Raj, reform gathered steam, and many Hindu reform movements such as Brahmo Samaj renounced caste-based discrimination. Gandhi wanted the lower castes into the mainstream. The caste system is still retreating in the face of modernity.
Later that night we were the guests of a traditional, extended Indian family for dinner in their home.
Wonderful experience! Accommodations: Golden Tulip Hotel
Day 7. Sunday, February 15:
Palace of the Winds / Jantar Mantar / City Palace Museum
This morning we enjoyed a sightseeing tour of Jaipur, known as the "Pink City" for the rosy hue of its sandstone buildings. See map of city on p. 353 of Eyewitness.
Jaipur, was founded in 1727 AD by one of the greatest rulers of the Kachhawaha clan, the astronomer king Sawai Jai Singh. The pink color was used at the time of construction to create an impression of red sandstone buildings of Mughal cities - and repainted in 1876, during the visit of the Prince of Wales.
This capital of the state of Rajasthan is a land of beauty, color and paradox. Here one finds invincible forts and magnificent palaces and gardens, waves of sand dunes and serene lakes. Except for the busy traffic of bicycles, cars and buses, little seems to have changed
First, we visited Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds). Picture p. 355. I thought this simply fabulous. Understandably, a bride was having bridal pictures taken with this as a backdrop. This is actually not a palace, but rather a facade of 956 delicate, honeycombed sandstone windows used by the ladies of the palace to watch the outside world without being watched.
Famous for its beehive like structure, the Mahal is interplay of red and pink sand stone, carefully and painstakingly outlined with white borders and motifs.
Palace of Winds adjoins the outside of the palace wall. Built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the Hawa Mahal is remarkable.
Just across the street I saw more wonderful examples of pleasing architecture. Such a nice variety of upper level buildings, and so well restored.
On the way to our next destination Neda, Jay and Johanna felt compelled to feed some cattle tethered near the walkway. Soon we approached the Jantar Mantar (picture p. 354; complex pp. 358-359), an astronomical and astrological observatory built in the 18th century.
Raja Jai Singh had a deep interest in astronomy. He read all the known works on the subject at the time (c1800's). He also collected the most advanced instruments he could find. During his studies, he noted inaccuracies in existing astronomical tables and decided to produce his own astronomical instruments. Because he felt that the instruments' size limited their accuracy (they were too small), his solution was to build gigantic instruments from stone, masonry, and marble rather than the traditional brass.
Today, the instruments are still used to forecast such things as how hot the summer months will be, the expected date of arrival, duration, and intensity of the monsoon, and the possibility of flood or famine.
First we looked at the Laghu Samrat Yamtra the “small sundial” which calculates Jaipur’s local time to an accuracy of 20 seconds. Then, the Narivalaya Yantra – an Equinoctial Dial. The high point was the Samrat Yantra, which literally means the king of all the instruments. It is not only the biggest of all the yantras but also in accuracy and excellence of its construction.
The smarat serves the purpose to find out local time correct up to 2 seconds. The gnomon is ninety feet high and has niches in to wall so that storms do not affect the instrument. The gnomon is right-angled wall and the hypotenuse has steps to climb up. The hypotenuse has also a scale to find out the altitude of the sun. The hypotenuse points towards the pole. On either side of the pole is masonry quadrant, the centers of which lie on the edge of gnomon. The edges of the quadrants are graduated in hours, minutes and seconds. In this scale one minute has been divided to the extent of 30 parts, this way it is accurate up to 2 seconds.
Steps are provided near the quadrants so that the observer may climb up and find the readings of the instrument precisely. The smarat may be described as a gigantic sundial, which as a sundial, can be used to tell the time to an accuracy of twenty seconds. The last instrument visited was the Ram Yanta.
Ram Yantra, as it represents by its name, is an instrument, which is very helpful to the astronomers to find out the zenith distance and the altitude of the sun. The beauty of the instrument is, that it gives us direct readings. Basically the instrument consists of two circular stone building. If one unites them together, it becomes one instrument. This way one is complimentary to the other. They are constructed at a reasonable distance. In the center of the instrument a perpendicular rod is fixed, which is of the same height of the building itself. Twelve stone triangles are fixed above the ground. These triangular stone slabs are graduated from 90 degree to 45 degree, while 45 to 0 degree the graduations are on the circular wall. This is an instrument by which we came to know the movement of stars.
From here we walked over to the nearby City Palace Museum (Floor plan pp. 356-7) filled with an array of textiles, arms, carpets, paintings and manuscripts.
The City Palace has an overwhelming complex of exquisite palaces, gardens and courtyards, decorative art and carved doorways. The main entrance to the palace, the Atish Pol (stable gate) took us into a large courtyard in the middle of which sits the white marble Mubarak Mahal (Palace of Welcome).
This two-storied building was built in 1890 by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob as a rest house for Maharaja
Madho Singh II (1880-1922). It was later used as the Mahakma Khas (Royal Secretariat) and is now the Tosha Khana (royal wardrobe) of the museum. The Textile and Costume Museum in the Mubarak Mahal has some of the finest Indian fabrics and costumes as well as musical instruments and toys from the royal playroom.
We were given headsets and monitors to tune into audio presentations of the various numbered sites. After I left the Mubarak Mahal I entered the Arms and Armor Museum (Sileh Khana) in the Anand Mahal which houses a fine collection of Indian antique weaponry – pistols, blunderbusses, flintlocks, swords, rifles and daggers. The weapon collection also includes the massive sword of Maharaja Man Singh I that weighs at least 11 pounds, a turban shaped helmet belonging to Mirza Raja Jai Singh I and the unique dagger that has two miniature pistols built into its handle. This room was once the common room of the harem, and has a beautiful view of the Chandra Mahal from its first floor windows.
From here I entered the Rajenfra Pol gateway to the next courtyard. This courtyard reflects the influence of the Islamic style followed by Mughal trained craftsmen who added in a few Hindu designs to satisfy their Hindu masters. From this vantage point I taped the Diwan-i-Khas straight ahead and the Riddhi-Siddhi Pol to the left. Then I turned to the right and shot the Diwan-i-Aam with ceremonial guards posted at the doorway. I now entered the Diwan-i-Khas (c1730) to view the large silver urns contained therein.
The Diwan-i-Khas is a large marble pillared hall set in a deep pink courtyard. There are several arches that support its decorated pavilion roof. It is now known by its Sanskrit name Sarbato Bhadra and contains two huge silver urns once used by Sawai Madho Singh to carry water to England. Sawai Madho Singh was an extremely devout Hindu and staunchly followed the Hindu rituals. Any physical contact with a non-Hindu was defiling for him, and matters took an ungainly turn when he set out on a trip to England. There was a problem here, because where on earth would he find holy water to wash off his `contaminated’ palms after he’d shook hands with a foreigner and dined with them? This included the Viceroy, whom Sawai Madho Singh met wearing white gloves. The Maharaja took this cleansing bit mighty seriously, going to the extent of having his clothes burnt after each tryst with foreigners. The only place where the sacred water with `purifying’ qualities was available was back in good old India. When he went to England to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee, he had a P&O liner, the S.S Olympia, redesigned to include a Krishna temple, and carried sufficient Ganga water with him. He was a Maharaja after all, and style would naturally be in his blood. The holy water was transported all the way England in two 309kg silver urns, enough to last him his visit overseas. These urns better known as Ganga Jali measure 5 feet in height and are listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest single silver objects in the world.
At the heart of the complex is the seven - tiered Chandra Mahal (picture p. 357) where the erstwhile royal family is still in residence, though only a small part of the apartments is occupied.
The Chandra Mahal is the earliest building of the palace complex and dominates the Pritam Niwas Chowk. Originally Chandra Mahal was a single storied palace and the later kings added more floors. The building now has seven stories and each floor is a luxurious, opulent palace by itself. The second and third floors comprise of a single two-tiered room called the Sukh Niwas. The Sukh Niwas or the House of Pleasure had been restored to suit the Victorian style. The topmost floor is a smaller open pavilion called Mukut Mahal, or the crown palace. It has a beautiful curvilinear Bengal styled roof. The design of the Mukut Mahal had taken inspiration from Amber’s Jas Mandir.
We left the palace complex through a narrow café. A Hindu couple, that could have been father and son, entertained us. The elder produced the music while the young lad danced in what appeared to be improvised antics.
We completed our daily tour with an optional visit to a fabric block-printing center to learn more about the textiles that are so representative of this area. The art of block printing employs wooden or metal blocks to print designs and patterns on fabric by hand. What makes block Printing unique is that the design has to be created by the artist before the printing begins. It is carved onto the block by hand. The colors used are normally vegetable dyes, although mineral and non-toxic chemical dyes are also used. The carved block is dipped into the required color and then pressed onto stretched out sheets of fabric. This is done over and over with each figure carefully lined up with the previous one. Johanna volunteered for a hands-on demonstration whereby different colors are added one at a time over the previous ones for multicolored designs. We each received copies of the finished product.
Dinner this evening was held at 7 pm in the Golden Tulip Hotel where we were treated to a great array of offerings, all Indian dishes.
Accommodations: Golden Tulip Hotel
Day 8, Monday, February 16:
Overland to Ranthambore National Park / Visit with children at local school / Optional tour of Ranthambore Fort
After a hefty breakfast, we left Jaipur and drove through the rural countryside. Trucks coming from the opposite direction were overloaded with massive amounts of hay and grain for animals. Bulging sacks hung over the edges of the trucks creating quite a spectacle. We passed a well where women were drawing water. The water filled jugs were to be carried on their heads to the local village. We also watched women working in the fields. Apparently this was the accepted norm for women to perform the hardest labor.
Another discovery moment was provided for us at an “incense factory.” We walked carefully among the cattle and piles of dung to reach the pellet making area. Women were kneading manure with rose water and chemicals used for aroma. The mushy substance was stuffed into casings to give it shape and then pushed out in pellet form to dry. This was dried and packaged as incense. As we left we watched women scrapers collecting dung from the floor to provide stuff for more incense.
We continued on in our bus into the low Vindhya mountain range.
The Vindhya Range is a range of older rounded mountains and hills in the west-central Indian subcontinent (similar in size, ruggedness, and nature geographically to the Appalachian Mountains), which geographically separates the Indian subcontinent into northern India (the Indo-Gangetic plain) and Southern India. Reaching the sub-continent proper, the range runs east and north nearly to the Ganges River at Mirzapur. The area to the north and west of the range are arid and inhospitable, located in the shadow of both the Vindhya and the higher Aravalli range to the south blocking the prevailing winds.
Our overall drive was about five hours in length along bumpy roads as we continued overland to Ranthambore National Park. Located near the town of Sawai Madhopur, the park is one of the eleven sites chosen for Project Tiger, India's national tiger conservation program, and the largest such effort in the world. The park comprises more than hundred square miles of deciduous forest and several large lakes, and until 1970 it was a hunting preserve of the maharajas.
Our accommodations in the Nahargarh Hotel (below) were unbelievable.
When we approached the grounds I thought this must be some great gigantic palace. Located near Ranthambhore National Park, this 42- room lodge was intentionally decorated to evoke the feeling of staying in a palace. We entered into the first large courtyard and were greeted by an Indian musician, who seemed to be playing his stringed instrument in that same spot every day and night. I doubt if he went to bed at night.
The dining hall was staffed with costumed waiters. We were seated at a large long rectangular table. I assumed the head seat and felt quite like a noble maharajah. When we went to our assigned room I was amazed at the spacious quarters. These rooms were located off of another large well-maintained courtyard.
Later, when we returned to the first central courtyard, our musician friend was again playing Indian music, only this time his younger brother performed a native dance for us. This was similar to the dance performance we saw at the City Palace in Jaipur. Gary not only took many pictures of this costumed kid, but also made a video of his routine. We returned to our rooms to relax. I caught Gary and Jean in a relaxed moment down the columnaded hallway from our room.
We could join an optional tour to the Ranthambore Fort, a spectacular fortress built more than 1,000 years ago on a rocky outcrop with stunning views. Today it sits in the middle of the Ranthambore sanctuary. Eyewitness pp. 406-7
The fort was a vital citadel for the control of central India, with the result that many wars were fought for its possession. Due to its location and structure, it was one of the most difficult forts to overthrow. Records show that the fort with stood the assaults of people life Kutub-ud-din (1209), Allaudin Khilji (1301), Feroz Tughlaq (1325) and Bahadur Shah of Gujarat (1530). The most successful ruler of this fort was Rao Hammir in the 11th century. The fort attracts a lot of pilgrim traffic because of the temples located in it. The most famous of these is the temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha.
It is said that in 1381 ten thousand women committed johar or mass suicide rather than fall in the hands of the ruler of an opposing and victorious army. In 1528, the control of the fort fell into the hands of the Mughals. In the 17th century Ranthambore fort became a prison fortress where prisoners were executed by stuffing them with opium and throwing them down from the fort walls. An account of the execution was given by Francois Bernier, a traveler of the 17th century in his book "Travels in the Mughal Empire, 1656-68". In this book he said that prisoners were kept on an average for two months, before the Governor would have them brought out. They would then be placed on the top of the wall and after having them drink some milk (decoction of the milky juice of the poppy), they would be cast down headlong on the rocks below. The purpose of opium given to the prisoners was to make them insensible.
The Mughals gave Ranthambore Fort to the Maharaja of Jaipur as a gift in the late 19th century. The fort then remained with the royal family of Jaipur, and the surrounding forests became their hunting reserve.
The fort is huge, with the circumference of its walls approximately 7 kms. The area inside is 4.5 sq. kms. It is open to the public from dawn to dusk. There is no road leading to the top of the hill to the fort - there are only stairs leading from the bottom of the hill. It is a 20-minute climb but it is said worth the effort. The height of the hill is 700 feet.
Dinner was included in our hotel this evening.
During our stay, we enjoyed a multi-cuisine restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool.
Day 9, Tuesday, February 17:
Game-viewing in Ranthambore National Park
In the early morning, when nocturnal animals would still be active, we headed out for game viewing before breakfast. Our mode of transportation was an open-air canter.
The air was brisk and the wind from the vehicle’s motion turned it into a biting cold. Gary, being a gentleman, gave up his seat next to the driver so that Alyssa could huddle behind the windshield. We saw a number of animals, but no tigers. Although half of the world’s tigers live in India, tiger sightings have become quite rare these days in India. This is because of the multitude of medicinal or magical properties attributed to tigers put them in demand.
The smuggling of tiger fur coats and rugs are not difficult for the impoverished hunters. Even after the bans made by the government warning not to gather even wood from the former hunting grounds, poaching of tigers continue. Still efforts are continuously made to preserve these magnificent predators from extinction. The Project tiger was launched in India in 1972 as conservation program for saving the Indian Tiger Population. But more wildlife conservation laws and awareness among people is still required to make Indian sanctuaries a safe haven for tigers.
At the beginning of our jaunt we were visited by a number of Treepie birds that felt quite at home within our canter. Possibly their friendliness had something to do with the birdseed in our midst.
According to Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, The Andaman Treepie (Dendrocitta bayleyi) is a species of bird in the Corvidae family. It is endemic to India. Its natural habitat is subtropical or tropical moist lowland forests. It is threatened by habitat loss.
They are highly arboreal and rarely come to the ground to feed.
Our imported naturalist guide always kept a sharp lookout for signs of wildlife. At one point he had our vehicle stopped so that we could observe a recently formed tiger footprint in the sand. This clue heightened our sense of expectation. A little further on we stopped to photograph a Banyan Tree.
The National Tree of India is The Banyan Tree. This huge tree towers over its neighbors and has the widest reaching roots of all known trees, easily covering several acres. It sends off new shoots from its roots, so that one tree is really a tangle of branches, roots, and trunks. The banyan tree regenerates and lives for an incredible length of time--thus it is thought of as the immortal tree.
Its size and leafy shelter are valued in India as a place of rest and reflection, not to mention protection from the hot sun! It is still the focal point and gathering place for local councils and meetings. India has a long history of honoring this tree; it figures prominently in many of the oldest stories of the nation. In Hindu mythology, the tree is called Kalpavriksha, the tree that fulfill all your wishes.
The animal most prevalent that we saw was the Spotted Deer or Chital (Axis axis).
The Spotted Deer is the most commonly found member of the deer family in India. They are mostly seen in large herds of 30 - 50 females with a few stags. However it is not uncommon to see large herds of bachelors numbering up to 100 in areas such as the grasslands of Corbett N.P. They grow to a height of approximately 90 cm at the shoulders and can weigh up to 85 kgs. Their life expectancy ranges from 20 - 30 years. Despite being one of the favorite prey species of predators such as tigers and leopards and only giving birth to a single fawn at a time, their population is quite abundant.
Their diet consists of all kinds of vegetation but grass is the favorite. They also eat the antlers that they shed for their rich nutrients.
Spotted deer are extremely nervous animals and are always on the alert for a stalking predator. They are often seen under trees housing Langurs for two reasons. Firstly, due to their higher perch, the langurs forewarn them about approaching danger and secondly, the titbits dropped by the Langurs make easy pickings for a meal. The breeding season is not during one part of the year only.
The main factor behind their location is the presence of water.
Due to its alertness and sharp alarm call at seeing a predator, trackers often use this as an indication to pinpoint the location of a predator. However, it is only if the call is repeated many times over that to the falling of a leaf behind it!
We saw Langur Monkeys, although I did not capture them on videotape. Quite a few Indian peacocks and peafowl roamed through the park and seemed oblivious to our presence.
The peacock is the national bird of India and is the largest Asian galliform. The species is found in dry semi-desert grasslands, scrub and deciduous forests. It forages and nests on the ground but roosts on top of trees. It eats seeds, insects, fruits, small mammals and reptiles. Females are about 86 cm (34 in) long and weigh 2.75-4 kg (6-8.8 lbs), while males average at about 2.12 m (7.3 ft) in full breeding plumage (107 cm/42 in when not) and weigh 4-6 kg (8.8-13.2 lbs). The male is called a peacock, the female a peahen. The Indian Peacock has iridescent blue-green plumage. The upper tail coverts on its back are elongated and ornate with an eye at the end of each feather. These are the Peacock's display feathers. The female plumage is a mixture of dull green, grey and iridescent blue, with the greenish-grey predominating. In the breeding season, females stand apart by lacking the long 'tail feathers' also known as train, and in the non-breeding season they can be distinguished from males by the green color of the neck as opposed to the blue on the males.
Peafowl are most notable for the male's extravagant display feathers that, despite actually growing from their back, are known as a 'tail' or train. This train is in reality not the tail but the enormously elongated upper tail coverts. The tail itself is brown and short as in the peahen. The colors result from the microstructure of the feathers and the resulting optical phenomena. The ornate train is believed to be the result of female sexual selection as males raised the feathers into a fan and quiver it as part of courtship display. Many studies have suggested that the quality of train is an honest signal of the condition of males and that peahens select males on the basis of their plumage. More recent studies however, suggest that other cues may be involved in mate selection by peahens.
They lay a clutch of 4-8 eggs that take 28 days to hatch. The eggs are light brown and are laid every other day usually in the afternoon. The male does not assist with the rearing, and is polygamous with up to six hens.
Another deer that we observed was the Sambar. One group drinking water let us take our time taking pictures up close. Don especially made good use of this opportunity. Sambars are primarily browsers that live in woodlands and feed mainly on coarse vegetation, grass, and herbs. They are diurnal animals that live in herds of 5-6 members, grazing on grass, sprigs, fruit and bamboo buds. These deer are seldom far from water and, although primarily of the tropics, are hardy and may range from sea level up to high elevations such as the mixed deciduous forest zone in the Himalayan Mountains sharing its range with the Himalayan musk deer. These deer are found in habitats ranging from tropical seasonal forests (tropical dry forests and seasonal moist evergreen forests), subtropical mixed forests (conifers, broadleaf deciduous, and broadleaf evergreen tree species) to tropical rainforests. Their range covers a vast majority of territory that is classified as tropical rainforest, but their densities are probably very low there. In these areas, the deer probably prefer clearings and areas adjacent to water. They live as far north in Central China. Sambars are a favorite prey item for tigers.
The driver pulled our cantor over so that we could observe an Indian Vulture resting high in a nearby tree. The Indian Vulture, Gyps indicus, is an Old World vulture in the family Accipitridae, which also includes eagles, kites, buzzards and hawks. It is closely related to the European Griffon Vulture, G. fulvus. It breeds on crags or in trees in mountains in Pakistan and India, laying one egg. Birds may form loose colonies. The population is mostly resident. Like other vultures it is a scavenger, feeding mostly from carcasses of dead animals, which it finds by soaring over savannah and around human habitation.
The Indian Vulture has suffered a 99%–97% population decrease in Pakistan & India and the cause of this has been identified as poisoning caused by the veterinary drug diclofenac. Diclofenac is a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) and when given to working animals it can reduce joint pain and so keep them working for a longer time. The drug is swallowed by vultures with the flesh of dead cattle that were given diclofenac in the last days of life. Diclofenac causes kidney failure in several species of Vultures. In March 2005 the Indian Government announced its support for a ban on the veterinary use of diclofenac. Because vultures flock from far and wide to feed on a dead animal, it takes less than 1% of cattle carcasses to be contaminated with the drug to kill the birds off. Recent research found it in more than 10% of Indian cattle carcasses.
A concrete dam had been constructed by the government to hold back some of the water from the monsoon season. A kingfisher perched there caught our attention, but he is not on the videotape.
We hunkered down as our canter journeyed us back over dusty terrain to our “palace” hotel. Our hungry gang was ready for the late breakfast that awaited us. The video shot of the hotel from a distance was an attempt by me to show its size and the isolated setting.
Once back in the hotel complex I taped another one of the beautifully landscaped courtyards. A chef was available in the dinning room to custom prepare eggs and omelettes for us. I still donned my OAT red wool vest as I warmed up with coffee. Jean settled back on a comfortable chair outside her room rather than face another bone jolting trip into the reserve. The canter ride was not just bumpy, it was much more uncomfortable than any safari I had taken in Africa. The “roadway” was all rocks and light dust. The wiser passengers among us covered their mouths with cloth. Yet, it was a worthwhile adventure. Fortified with a full breakfast, and a lunch break, we were now ready to embark on phase two of our safari.
We regrouped for a second safari expedition. Though it is rare, some have seen the Royal Bengal Tiger, usually sleeping by day in the tall grass. We still had hope, especially since our guide added two young men to serve as tiger bait.
The Bengal tiger, or Royal Bengal tiger is a subspecies of tiger primarily found in Bangladesh, India, and also Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar and southern Tibet. It has traditionally been considered the second largest subspecies after the Siberian tiger, but Northern Bengals may indeed rival Siberian tigers in size. Thus far the heaviest Bengal tigers captured in Nepal for research have been heavier than recently captured Siberian tigers. It is the most common tiger subspecies, living in a variety of habitats, including grasslands, subtropical and tropical rainforests, scrub forests, wet and dry deciduous forests, and mangroves.
Male Bengal tigers usually measure 275–310 cm with their tail. The tail of a large male is usually 85–95 cm long. Their weight ranges from 400-594 pounds, with an average weight of 440–520 lb. The heaviest Bengal tiger ever reported was (857 lb and measured 11 ft between pegs. This tiger was shot in Uttar Pradesh, Northern India, in 1967 by David Hasinger and is the heaviest tiger with reliable source. However, according to Mazak, the occurrence of those exceptional large tigers is debatable and not confirmed via reliable references. Females are considerably smaller and have an average weight of 310 lb, but they can reach up 400 lb. Males have a maximum skull length of 330 to 380 mm, females 275 to 311 mm.
The fur of this subspecies is generally orange-brown with black stripes, although there is a mutation that sometimes produces white tigers, as well as a rare variation (less than 100 known to exist, all in captivity) called the Golden Tabby as a white coat with golden patches and stripes that are much paler than normal. A recent census showed 26 tigers in the reserve.
We viewed game from 3:30 pm to 6 pm, but I did not use my camcorder. Although we did not see any tigers in the tall grass as hoped, we did see mongoose, monkeys, wild pigs and crocodiles.
Dinner was included at our hotel this evening. Accommodations: Nahargarh Hotel
Day 10, Wednesday, February 18:
Overland to OAT Camp/Camel ride/Authentic Indian dinner/Cultural Indian dances
After breakfast we visited a nearby Hindu village. All of the village members belong to the same level caste. As elsewhere, it seemed like someone was always sweeping the ground with a hand broom. Our main objective was to visit the Adarsh Vidvalaya School. School children looked down on us from the school rooftop. They were eager photo candidates and posed readily. The children were always delighted when Gary showed them the shots he had taken of them. We went to the upper level of the school where an assembly was held. The children recited their daily pledge of respect for others and morning prayers. 70% of the students were boys and 30% girls and both groups wore green uniforms. A small group at the front led the recitations, one of which held a large picture of a Hindu goddess. The assembly then retreated downstairs and divided themselves into small classroom stalls. These children who met in the morning were from the lower grades. Older children used the same classroom stalls in the afternoon.
We walked out of the village and proceeded to a farmhouse where we were welcomed as guests, as part of the meet the people program A young hostess served cookies and tea to us. Older women washed clothes nearby. After this visit we reloaded in our tour bus and headed to Dastkari Kendra, a nonprofit coop for women who sought to supplement their family income.
Three years ago a young woman burnt herself to death in a Rajasthani village. The drums of a wedding procession drowned her screams till it was too late for any to help her. For Dhapu just 30, the mother of five children, lively, bright, beautiful, the pressures of having to take on the support of her widowed sister-in-law and her family of four, proved too much. Her husband’s income as an agricultural laborer in this particularly dry deprived part of Eastern Rajasthan did not match his sense of family honor. Ironically, sadly the group who were working to create economic alternatives for women just like her, could not save her. Today – as part of the Dastkar Ranthambore Project – Dhapu’s eldest daughter Indira, her widowed sister-in-law, and her sister-in-law’s daughter Pinky, are among the most prosperous women in Sherpur village – earning their own livelihood through their own inherent skills inherent skills.
We watched the women as they worked and a number of us purchased products from the storeroom. As we left, I noticed a young girl across the street imitating her mother by covering her head as she sweep the ground with a hand broom.
We drove a number of hours on the bus. Rest stops were few and far between because most gas stations did not have restroom facilities. All of a sudden our driver pulled off the road for our lunch break. We thought this odd because there were no business buildings around. We walked a short distance from the highway and there was this colorful tent enclosure set up as our restaurant, like an oasis. OAT arranged this especially for its members. Food was set up in servers and we ate buffet style from a wide variety of nice choices.
We drove on a little further before our next historic stop at Abhaneri to view an ancient baolis, essentially a step-well or waterway built to provide a constant water supply to local inhabitants. The carved stonework was a sight to behold.
Abhaneri is a small town village, situated at a distance of 95 km from Jaipur, on Jaipur-Agra road. The place is popular for the amazing 'Baoris' (step wells) and Harshat Mata Temple. The King Raja Chand is believed to have established the village of Abhaneri. Originally Abhaneri was named as Abha Nagri, which means the city of brightness, but due to mispronunciation of the term, it is changed to the present name.
In the present day, this city of brightness is in ruins; still it attracts tourists from across the globe. Abhaneri is prominent for 'Baoris', which are the unique invention of the natives for harvesting rainwater. Amongst the other step wells, Chand Baori is the most popular one. This colossal step well is located in front of the Harshat Mata Temple. Chand Baori is one of India's deepest and largest step wells. The huge tank with delicate carvings is certainly delightful to the eyes.
Step wells are the unique concept of India. These big tanks were used as cool places of resort and water reservoir in parched days. It was a ritual to wash hands and feet before visiting the temple. Adjoining the Chand Baori, there is a temple, dedicated to Harshat Mata. This temple serves as the other tourist attraction of Abhaneri. Raised during the 10th century, the wrecks of the temple still boast of the architectural and sculptural styles of ancient India.
Harshat Mata is considered to be the goddess joy and happiness. As per the beliefs, the goddess is always cheerful, who imparts her joy and happiness to the whole village. The temple is worth visiting for its amazing architecture and that too, which belongs to the medieval India. Abhaneri has a glorious past and this hoary magnetism of the place, attracts tourists to its threshold, from all over the world.
In the last village en route to the camp, the OAT staff was waiting to transfer us into “jeeps” to continue over the next 3 miles of rugged terrain from the village to the camp retreat. This was an interesting experience as we chugged along through village streets to the delight of children. The OAT camp had Indian musicians greeting us on our arrival. We had time to stretch our legs, check-in to our cabin, and freshen up for lunch while the staff attended to our luggage transfers. Situated on five acres of land within view of the Aravali Mountains, our rural retreat consists of air-cooled, tent-roof cottages, each with a veranda and private bath. There was also a separate dining area where we dined on organic cuisine prepared on site.
A string of decorated camels were lined up for a trek around the area. The first of our adventurers, Effie, climbed aboard a sitting creature situating herself behind the hump. She showed us how to hang on as her camel first lifted one end of his being and then the other end.
Camels found in India are the single-humped camels, also known as the Dromedary camels. Long-curved neck, deep-narrow chest and a single hump characterize the Indian camel. The camels use the hump as reservoir of fatty tissues. In times of scarcity, the tissues are metabolized and the camel receives energy. The size of the hump is not the same in all the camels. It differs from one camel to another, depending upon its nutritional state. In times of starvation, the hump can get reduced to almost a non-existent size.
Indian dromedary camels have a heavy growth of hair on throat, shoulder, and hump, which is longer than the rest of the body. On an average, the camels in India live for a period of 40 to 50 years. They are widely used by the people of Rajasthan as a means of transportation. In fact, the camels are known as the 'Ship of the Desert'. They are used for carrying goods as well as people. Indian camels also provide humans with milk, meat, wool, leather and fuel (from their dried dung).
Since I had been on camels before, I chose to ride in a camel-drawn cart. This I had supposed would give me better opportunities to use my camcorder. What a big mistake! The cart did not have seats. Rather it had just a flat surface to lie down upon, providing no other view than the sky. The ride was very uncomfortable because the jogging motion tended to make the passenger slide off the cart. All one could do is just hang on and wait for the trip to end. However, those who rode the camels had a very nice long trek along the countryside. When the session was over, the camels rolled over on the ground to scratch their backs. These huge beasts rolling on the ground created a spectacle to behold.
We joined our travel companions this evening in the relaxed environment of the campsite.
We assembled around the campfire and enjoyed being entertained by local dancers who proudly performed cultural Indian dances for us.
An inevitable part of Rajasthani culture that makes the colorful dance even more graceful is its spectacular attire and dazzling ornaments. Women dressed in heavily embroidered long flowing skirt with multi colored dupatta and beautiful necklace and bangles when revolves on her heel while performing 'Sapera'. Heavy jewelry adorned with precious and semi precious stones add a new dimension to the beauty of the dancing grace.
The first dance was the Chari Dance that required a lot of patience and balance. The dancers carried brightly lit brass pots on their heads, displaying many flexible movements of the body. This is usually considered a dance for gay occasions.
In the second dance, a Rajasthani dancer balanced jars on her head. An assistant kept adding more and more jars to the dancer’s head. Probably the most exciting dance was the Fire Dance, a traditional folk dance of Rajasthan. One of the dancers filled her mouth with kerosene and then spewed it out over a flaming stick. A burst of flames lit up the night. However, this left an unpleasant taste in her mouth and she tried to unobtrusively rinse her mouth with water a number of times. The evening closed with audience participation and the bravest among us participated (Johanna, Alyssa, Neda and Roger).
Before dinner we took to the kitchen for a discovery moment. We were each to make our own chappati, a delicious, but very plain, unleavened bread that is a standard ingredient of a typical meal in India. The dough is basically flour and water and the chef kneaded the mixture to the right consistency. After the chef made the dough and divided it up into little balls, we were to roll out the balls into circles of pancake thickness with a rolling pin (adding flour as needed).
We then cooked the chappati in a frying pan the desired amount and with a tong lifted the bread and placed it on the flames of the grill for 30 seconds, or so, until small blisters or bubbles appeared on the surface. Then we turned it over again. If everything was going well the chappati (miraculously) started to inflate like a small balloon. This phenomenon drew ohhhhs. We took the finished product off the grill and placed it on our plate. Everyone was successful in this endeavor, but Roger merited the videotape coverage. From the kitchen we took to the dinning room for another well-seasoned Indian meal.
Accommodations: OAT Camp (Rajasthan Resorts and Camp)
