Day 4 May 17 Sunday
Chobe National Park, Botswana
Wake-up calls rang at 5 am and we placed our luggage outside the rooms by 6 am. My included breakfast again was comprised of granola cereal and English bacon with eggs.
This morning we flew to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe (1 hour, 45 minutes on South African Flt 0040, departing at 9:30 am and arriving 11:15 am). The view of Botswana from the air was ever changing and unique, especially the portion I perceived to be the Kalahari Desert. Stewardesses provided remarkable service and I thought the food provided generous for such a short flight.
We were greeted at the airport exit by Zimbabwe dancers performing for tips. Anne told us to have $45US ready for Botswana multi-entry visa. Our group was given the ubiquitous forms to fill out prior to arrival by Anne, but other travelers were spared this procedure because the Zimbabwean government was short of paper and had no forms on hand. We spent little time in Zimbabwe before taking the motor coach to Chobe National Park in Botswana.
Anne wisely told us to watch along the highway for wild animals. We were very fortunate that the
animals cooperated. Our first encounter was a large giraffe. Later elephants entertained us. We crossed
the Zimbabwe/Botswana border and came across more elephants. After checking into the Chobe
Safari Lodge, we enjoyed refreshing chilled towels, a welcome drink, and an included light lunch -- with time to relax in the spacious “wilderness” lounge. The eco-friendly Chobe Safari Lodge, which blends in with its surroundings, is located in the north of Botswana at Chobe National Park. Rates per night this time of year (Safari Room) normally run around $168US with the charge for buffet breakfast listed at $24 (included in our tour package).
Our rooms were large and the beds were outfitted with mosquito netting.
Our rooms were large and the beds were outfitted with mosquito netting.
Later that afternoon we embarked on a sunset wildlife cruise on the Chobe River.
The Chobe River arises in the Angolan Highlands, where it is called the Kwando River. Flowing south, it travels through the Kalahari into Botswana where it becomes the Linyanti River. After Ngoma, it is called the Chobe River. The Chobe River is connected to the Okavango and the Zambezi Rivers via the Selinda Spillway, and these three rivers carry more water than all other southern African rivers. The Chobe flows through reed and papyrus beds, and the wildlife viewing along its banks in the Chobe National Park is superb. Vast numbers of game animals roam across the wilderness, especially in the northern areas of Ngamiland, along the riverbanks of the Chobe River, upstream from Kasane, and in the delta of the mighty Okavango. Bird-life is prolific here and the area is the delight of photographers and bird-watchers from all over the world! During the harsh, dry season, herds of wildlife migrate from the South to the North and gather along the perennial Chobe River and its fertile flood plains.
The best time to visit Chobe is in the dry season, which run from May to October.
Wildlife: we saw: elephant, hippo, buffalo, zebra, lion, hyena, red lechwe, crocodile, sable antelope, impala, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, roan antelope, serval, bat-eared fox, sitatunga, puku and bushbuck. On the north side of the Chobe River are the Caprivi Swamps, on the edge of which is the ruined capital of the Kololo people who conquered Barotseland in the 19th Century. We encountered a number of animals along the shoreline, including impala, birds and crocodiles. We were fortunate to catch a herd of elephants on an island to our left making a river crossing to the opposite bank. They proved to be good swimmers with their trunks held up out of the water. Once across, they ambled up the shore and began lunching on leafy trees. A large lizard performed a fertility dance for us nearby. Our boat took to the river and islands again giving us ample views of hippopotami.
Like David Livingstone I harbor respect for these creatures – even crocodiles fear them. According to Wikipedia: “Despite its stocky shape and short legs, it can easily outrun a human. Hippos have been clocked at 18 mph while running maximum short distances. The hippopotamus is one of the most aggressive creatures in the world, and is often regarded as the most ferocious animal in Africa.” We
watched a lot of monkeys monkeying around along the shore, but they were not recorded on the video.
Our riverboat safari ended with a beautiful sunset – which I captured on tape at intervals.
Our included dinner was held at the hotel. We had a great variety of dishes. Joe, Celline and I experimented with impala, warthog (wild pig), wildebeest and whitefish. We liked the whitefish the best.
Accommodations: Chobe Safari Lodge
Day 5 May 18 Monday --- Namibia
Joe, Celline and I arrived for breakfast before the opening bell and contented ourselves by watching little playful monkeys in the trees above the dining area. Hotel staff members then came out in force armed with slingshots to drive them away. Apparently this was a regular morning ritual to protect us tourists
from the pest-like beggars. Ah, the buffet breakfast variety was great.
Thus fortified, we were ready to launch out across the Chobe River to Namibia. We departed in the cool of the morning (8 am). We took a small powerboat from the lodge, then we had to go through the Botswana emigration procedures, and then we got Namibian stamps in our passport on the other side of the broad river.
We landed in Namibia on Impalila Island in the Chobe River and set off on the short walk to the village.
Photo below taken from my camcorder video.
Photo below taken from my camcorder video.
Our guide was from Namibia, a different village, but one he said was very similar to the one we visited and not too far from here. This trip gave us very interesting glimpse of the way people still live in these traditional mud-hut villages. The village we visited is centered around a huge, ancient baobab tree and so was known as the baobab tree village. Before us stood the prominent baobab tree referred to in the other account of an Impala Island visit. The baobab tree, magic and Tate Kalunga” by Ron Swilling: Various beliefs and stories are associated with the omukwa or baobab tree, from lingering spirits to origin fables. One of the favorites is that Tate Kalunga (Father God) made all things on this earth. He made man and woman, all the animals and the fishes of the sea. By the time he got to the trees, however, he was very tired and planted the baobab up-side down in the ground, hence the root-like branches that extend into the sky.
We received the impression that this village is one of the more prosperous owing to the extra income from the hotel visitors like us. The women of the village lined up their crafts on the ground before us and
we purchased items that supported the local economy. Our guide served as the mediator between us and the producers of the crafts. Actually, this worked well and facilitated the exchange. Prices were cheaper here than other places.
One lady opened up her home for us to walk around. Life for these people was quite simple and basic.
Photos above taken from my camcordder video. I couldn’t find any evidence of religious belief in the village, so I assumed a missionary probably visited here as a station. Possibly we were given information about this and I missed it. In Namibia as a whole the Christian community makes up at least 80% of the population with at least 50% Lutheran.
Photos above taken from my camcordder video. I couldn’t find any evidence of religious belief in the village, so I assumed a missionary probably visited here as a station. Possibly we were given information about this and I missed it. In Namibia as a whole the Christian community makes up at least 80% of the population with at least 50% Lutheran.
The Evangelical Lutheran Church in Namibia accounts or 650 000 of Namibia's 2 million people. It is located primarily in the north of the country, and was begun by Finnish missionaries in 1870. Lutheran Pastor Edgar Hoenecke (above) and Pastor Arthur Wacker in their journey to find a WELS mission site in Africa once considered Namibia, but determined that they could be more effective in nearby Northern Rhodesia now Zambia (Notes from Edgar Hoenecke, “The Hook of the Kafue,” Forward In Christ, article database).
We walked back toward the riverfront on the same pathway. I think we moved a little slower this time. Yep, went through immigration again and more stamp, stamp. Back at our Chobe Lodge I took video of the pool, the eating area, the “jungle walk” trail to our rooms and the safari rooms complex. Then I turned in on my accommodations – which included a mosquito net tent over the bed, high thatched
ceiling, private balcony and roomy bathroom area w/ traditional tub and shower stall. 3 pm lunch was on
our own so I settled for a healthy granola bar from my personal inventory that I had brought from the States.
Later, we embarked on an afternoon game drive to explore elephant country. Our jeeps (with tiered seating) were lined up at the Lodge entrance.
A major feature of Chobe National Park is its elephant population currently estimated at around 120,000. The Chobe elephants are migratory, making seasonal movements of up to 200 km from the Chobe and Linyanti rivers, where they concentrate in the dry season, to the pans in the southeast of the park, to which they disperse in the rains.
A major feature of Chobe National Park is its elephant population currently estimated at around 120,000. The Chobe elephants are migratory, making seasonal movements of up to 200 km from the Chobe and Linyanti rivers, where they concentrate in the dry season, to the pans in the southeast of the park, to which they disperse in the rains.
Our sightings included warthogs, impalas, red hornbill, puku (brown fur, looks like impala) elephants (many and up close), crocodile, giraffes, kudus (male and female, found together only in mating season), mongoose, baboons, female lion, breeding herd of impala (with only one buck) and water buffalo.
The sunset was beautiful and we returned to the lodge as it was approaching nightfall. Included dinner this evening was on the lodge terrace, overlooking the river. The warthog chops were good (relatively speaking), as was the wild impala and kudu.
Not many mosquitoes out tonight. Anne said that when we do see one, KILL IT!
Lodging: Chobe Safari Lodge
Day 6 May 19 Tuesday --- Chobe National Park / Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
After eating a buffet breakfast at the hotel, we transferred via motor coach (2 hours) to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Not many animal sightings on the highway this time. Our stay in Zimbabwe included spending 3 nights. This country does not have a very good image in the international community. The Falls are almost the only things that still function properly, because the government certainly doesn’t. The area around the Falls operates without Zimbabwe money and only the Rand or US Dollars are accepted.
Zimbabwe area: 150,760 sq. mi...., slightly larger than Montana. National population 8-9 million. Growth rate (2006 World Bank est.): 0.8%. (Note: the population growth rate is depressed by an HIV/AIDS adult prevalence rate estimated to be 15.6% and a high level of emigration.) Ethnic groups: Shona 71%, Ndebele 16%, other African 11%, white 1%, mixed and Asian 1%. Religions: Christianity 75%, the rest offshoot Christian sects, animist, and Muslim. See map below.
Languages: English (official), Shona, and Ndebele. Education: Attendance--mandatory for primary level. Adult literacy--90.5% (2004 est.). Health: Infant mortality rate--51.7/1,000 (2006 est.). Life expectancy--men 37 (2006), women 34 (2006).
Terrain: desert and savanna. Climate: mostly subtropical. More than half of white Zimbabweans, primarily of English origin, arrived in Zimbabwe after World War II. Afrikaners from South Africa and other European minorities, including Portuguese from Mozambique, also are present. Until the mid-1970s, there were about 1,000 white immigrants per year, but from 1976 to 1985 a steady exodus resulted in a loss of more than 150,000, leaving about 100,000 in 1992. Renewed white emigration in the late 1990s and early 2000s reduced the white population to less than 50,000. English, the official language, is spoken by the white population and understood, if not always used, by more than half of the black population.
British Settlement and Administration: Back in 1888, Cecil Rhodes (below) obtained a concession for mineral rights from local chiefs. Later that year, the area that became Southern and Northern Rhodesia was pro-claimed a British sphere of influence. The British South Africa Company was chartered in 1889, and the settlement of Salisbury (now Harare, the capital) was established in 1890. In 1895, the territory was formally named Rhodesia after Cecil Rhodes under the British
British Settlement and Administration: Back in 1888, Cecil Rhodes (below) obtained a concession for mineral rights from local chiefs. Later that year, the area that became Southern and Northern Rhodesia was pro-claimed a British sphere of influence. The British South Africa Company was chartered in 1889, and the settlement of Salisbury (now Harare, the capital) was established in 1890. In 1895, the territory was formally named Rhodesia after Cecil Rhodes under the British
South Africa Company's administration. Following the abrogation of the company's charter in 1923, Southern Rhodesia's white settlements were given the choice of being incorporated into the Union of South Africa or becoming a separate entity within the British Empire. The settlers rejected incorporation, and Southern Rhodesia was formally annexed by the United Kingdom that year. Until 1980, Rhodesia was an internally self-governing colony with its own legislature, civil service, armed forces, and police. Although Rhodesia was never administered directly from London, the United Kingdom always retained the right to intervene in the affairs of the colony, particularly in matters affecting Africans.
In September 1953, Southern Rhodesia was joined in a multiracial Central African Federation with the British protectorate of Northern Rhodesia and Nyasaland in an effort to pool resources and markets. Although the federation flourished economically, the African population, who feared they would not be able to achieve self-government with the federal structure dominated by White
Southern Rhodesians, opposed it. The federation was dissolved at the end of 1963 after much crisis and turmoil, and Northern Rhodesia and Nyasaland became the independent states of Zambia and Malawi in 1964.
Southern Rhodesia: The fortunes of Zimbabwe have for almost three decades been tied to President Robert Mugabe (below), the pro-independence campaigner who wrested control from a small white community and became the country's first black leader. Until the 2008 parliamentary elections, Zimbabwe was effectively a one-party state, ruled over by Mugabe's Zanu-PF. A power- sharing deal has raised hopes that Mugabe might be prepared to relinquish some of his powers, but in the meantime he presides over a nation whose economy is in tatters, where poverty and unemployment are endemic and political strife and repression commonplace.
For years it was a major tobacco producer and a potential breadbasket for surrounding countries. But the forced seizure of almost all white-owned commercial farms, with the stated aim of benefiting landless black Zimbabweans, led to sharp falls in production and precipitated the collapse of the agriculture-based economy. The country has endured rampant inflation and critical food and fuel shortages. Many Zimbabweans survive on grain handouts. Others have voted with their feet; hundreds of thousands of Zimbabweans, including much-needed professionals, have left the country. Aid agencies and critics partly blame food shortages on the land reform program. The government blames a long-running drought, and Mr. Mugabe has accused Britain and its allies of sabotaging the economy in revenge for the redistribution program.
Our bus dropped us off at the entrance of our hotel. How strange to see large warthog tussling with each other on the main yard! During the day the warthogs roam the grounds of the lodge and dine on the lawn, in the evening the hotel guests dine on warthogs. Anne had us meet in a nice conference room of the hotel for welcoming drinks and room assignments.
First-Class Victoria Falls Hotel is a fine colonial-style hotel. The Edwardian-style five-star hotel, built in 1904, was recently redecorated and refurbished and now combines the charm of the old with the convenience of the new. Set in lush tropical gardens with lily ponds, palm trees and semi-tropical shrubs, it provides the tranquility and seclusion
The opulent Livingstone Room (below) for fine dining and dancing, the Jungle Junction with its famous breakfast and dinner buffets and ethnic entertainment in the evenings, offer variety and wide choice. The ambience of the hotel is steeped in that history with all suites decorated in the gracious Edwardian style of Zimbabwe’s colonial era. It has 161 rooms comprising 37 standard rooms, 58 traditional rooms, 48 deluxe rooms, 7 junior suites, 4 honeymoon suites, 6 executive suites and the Royal Suite. The latter, as the name suggests, has seen reigning monarchs, presidents and, more recently, many famous Hollywood stars among its privileged occupants.
Cheapest room per night for a single with Orbitz.com for this date was $270 (US) or $283 with taxes. Tripadvisor.com states average price per night $411. One reviewer who visited here in 2008 wrote: “An excellent hotel with excellent staff. One of the few hotels in the world that still does things properly (or tries to, under current circumstances). Takes you back to the age when travel was a real privilege. This hotel is for those who are able to appreciate history, and want to experience something from a different age. Reminds me of places that no longer exist.
I stepped out from the Stanley Room to the Stanley’s Terrace with its clear view of the Victoria Falls Bridge, connecting Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Terrace has been a rendezvous for adventurers in Africa for over a century. The bridge was the brainchild of Cecil Rhodes, who wanted the "spray of the falls over the train carriages", even though he never visited the falls and died before construction of the Bridge began.
It is very much part of the unrealized “Cape to Cairo” dream of Rhodes.
My room was in the left wing off of the terrace. I taped the interior hallway that led to my room. As I waited for our next bus excursion I videotaped a baboon in the yard.
When all of out tour group were present we began our guided visit to Victoria Falls National Park, including a walk through the tropical forest.
Our first stop was at the Big Tree near the Falls where our guide told us the all too familiar story of the Baobab tree. Everyone was issued a fold-up pocket-sized raincoat. Wandering through the park's patch of rainforest where a fine mist of droplets creates an almost constant rainbow, you begin to appreciate why the local Batonga people named the Falls the 'smoke that rises'. For the unwary tourist, they might have added; 'Smoke that rises and makes you wet,' so we covered our cameras and wore raincoats.
We started out at the Devils Cataract where the falls are about 70 meters deep. They derive their name from an adjacent island in the Zambezi River where it is reported locals used to conduct sacrificial ceremonies. With the advent of the missionaries this practice was frowned down upon and considered devilish resulting in the name sticking. Descending 73 steps into the gorge can find the best view of the gorges below. Joe was willing to take the journey downward, but no one else was that brave, so we stayed at the upper level.
The David Livingstone statue was at the left end of the Falls near the spectacular Devils Cataract viewpoint. On 16 November 1855, Livingstone (the first Western explorer to view the Falls) wrote in his journal: "scenes so lovely must have been gazed on by angels in their flight". Livingstone's heart was buried under an Mvula tree near the spot further north where he died, now the site of the Livingstone Memorial. His body together with his journal was carried over a thousand miles by his loyal attendants Chuma and Susi, and was returned to Britain for burial in Westminster Abbey.
Notes about Livingstone: Born in Scotland, David Livingstone arrived in Africa in 1840 at the age of 27 as a missionary and physician. He spent most of the remainder of his life on the continent, his exploits making him the most famous explorer of the century. An encounter with a lion in 1843 cost Livingstone the use of his left arm. Undeterred, Livingstone continued his exploration of the African interior, particularly the Zambezi River area in 1852-1856. It was during this expedition that he became the first European to witness the magnificence of Victoria Falls. In 1866,
Livingstone set out at the head of an expedition charged with the task of finding the headwaters of the Nile River. His lack of contact with the outside world over a period of four years raised concerns for his welfare and prompted the New York Herald to send Henry Stanley to find Living-stone. Stanley achieved his goal on November 10, 1871 approaching the explorer in an African village with the immortal words "Dr. Livingstone I presume"
Years in the wilderness took their toll however, and David Livingstone died in Africa in April 1873 at age sixty. The only Christian convert of Livingstone's career was made in Kolobeng when Chief Sechele was baptized after renouncing all but his senior wife, although he was later denied communion after he took back one of his previous wives. Livingstone always emphasized the importance of understanding local custom and belief as well as the necessity of encouraging Africans to proselytize, however he always had acute difficulties finding converts he considered suited for training to be missionaries. It seems his real thrust was exploring. In 1857 he resigned from the London Missionary Society after they demanded he to do more evangelizing and less exploring.
Victoria Falls National Park has a network of trails leading to 16 spectacular view points. We had started with Devil’s Cataract and were working our way towards viewing Cataract Island. Further along was Rainbow Falls. A rainbow can clearly be viewed from this viewpoint. The falls are 108 meters deep at this point and are the deepest of the whole series.
Then came the Main Falls. The falls at this point are arguably at their most majestic view. With a wide curtain of water thundering down 93 meters into the gorge below from a 822 meter wide ledge, and peak water falls of 700,000 cubic meters per minute, this section throws out a magnificent spray that waters the rainforest around the falls. As one progresses along this agenda, the more “rain” one experiences. When I felt like I was being inundated I ceased walking and turned back. Other hardy souls followed Anne to 'Danger Point' (on the cliff edge) and the 'Chain Walk' (going down into the gorge). They ended up being completely wet.
When we returned to our luxury hotel a piano player was playing and we were treated to a 6 pm Cocktail Party on the Terrace. I choose the white wine and found it wonderful, like German Riesling. Staying on the Terrace, I had dinner with Joe and Celline. The Zambezi Burger was my meal of choice, but I had trouble eating the generous amount they served.
Lodging: Victoria Falls Hotel.
Day 7 May 20 Wednesday --- Victoria Falls
I had a wonderful open air buffet breakfast at the hotel’s Jungle Junction. Today we were schedule for our optional “Flight of Angels”-- a helicopter tour over Victoria Falls. We departed in shifts from our hotel in a private air-conditioned vehicle accompanied by an English-speaking guide. When we entered the park we were assessed a $5.00 entry fee and then waited at an information room by the helipad, located two miles from Victoria Falls town center. A large map on the wall illustrated the route we would take in our 12- to 13-minute scenic flight over Victoria Falls, making a complete circuit over the Falls in both directions. As we started towards the launching pad, Joe and Celline were returning from their flight. The Squirrel helicopter’s five-passenger seating is designed so that all passengers have a good view on the Falls and the scenery below. We had to be weighed before the flight because heavy people like myself could not sit up front with the driver. I was one of the three in the back but had an outside seat -- a good spot for my video recording.
En route to our hotel, we “experienced” Zimbabwean culture and village life on a visit to a craft community. From: Diana Ellis, published in Adventure Travel: Visit the craft market where local artists sell their carvings, jewelry, baskets and other handiwork. Be prepared to bargain. Some of the best African arts and crafts can be found at the local arts and crafts markets in both Livingstone and Victoria Falls. The vendors are often pushy so be prepared to stand your ground.
When I returned to the hotel, I joined Joe and Celline for a walk to a local restaurant for lunch. Just after leaving the hotel we were greeted by two security personnel who wanted to assist us across the highway.
The restaurant we approached was really nice and offered a varied menu.
One item that caught our attention was crocodile strips. We asked the waiter if we could have samples to see if we liked it. He checked with the chef and returned with samples for all of us. Joe liked his (above) and decided that was his choice. I settled forless exotic fare, like fish and chips.
Back at the hotel I decided to explore the Victoria Falls by taking the ten-minute walk towards the bridge by using the hotel’s private pathway. I started out at the Zimbabwean flagpole where a marker indicated the mileage to the Cape in one direction and Cairo in the other. Ahead of me was the bridge constructed to make the link. A security guide was posted at the beginning of the path and he insisted he accompany me along the way. We did not encounter any elephants, but he did help ward off vendors along the way who were waiting to pounce on us vulnerable tourists. With the guard ahead of me, I walked about ten minutes before coming to the scenic sight overlook along the river. The video captured the river canyon, the raging water, as well as the bridge.
An unfriendly looking warthog was munching at the overlook so I took a video of him, too.
This evening we were scheduled for a Home Hosted Visit in Zimbabwe. Anne divided us up into four smaller groups for the occasion. Our particular group was assigned a hostess whose name was Flater Ncube and lived in House #5015 in Chinotimba Township of Victoria Falls. We entered a fenced-in yard and were then welcomed into a rather simple but comfortable home. The hostess (above on blurred photo from videotape) was very friendly and talked openly about her home and family. Her house was built in 2000 when her family and her sister’s family pooled resources. They agreed that they would live together with the combined four children and two grandchildren. It was hard to believe this enterprising woman also worked as a maid seven days a week. She was 47 years old and a widow whose husband died during the war. On the wall of the home was a single painting of the Lord’s Supper. She herself was Assembly of God and said that people in the neighborhood were Christians from many denominations.
When it came time to eat she passed around a container and pitcher for hand washing. Different dishes of food were then placed on a central table. Choices were beef, chicken, fish (anchovies), kale (spinach), peanut butter and soy, caterpillars (center of table, pictured), hominy (corn), black-eye peas, peanut butter and roasted peanuts. Joe tried the caterpillars (below) , but I passed on that one.
After dinner we all went out to the yard with flashlights to see the trees – peach, mangrove, etc.
When we returned to the hotel, a number of us sat out on Stanley’s Terrace and drank coffee. Joe graciously picked up the tab. He was a good Joe!
Lodging: Victoria Falls Hotel
Day 8 May 21 Thursday --- Victoria Falls
Today was a day scheduled for optional tours and free time. I started off as an early bird to take pictures of the beautiful tree-lined walkway leading to Jungle Junction where breakfasts were usually prepared. The Jungle Junction could accommodate a large clientele and was covered with a massive thatched roof. The restaurant had a nice outdoor close-to-nature feel and surrounded a large patio with a water fountain
(below).
When I returned to the main lodge, I scanned the lodge and grounds from right to left. Joe, along with Gary and Karen, were having breakfast on Stanley’s Terrace. I pulled up a chair and ordered my usual bacon and eggs. Celline was absent because she had signed up for the optional Walk with Lions excursion. The lions were actually cubs, but participants could pet and play with them. None of our immediate group signed up for the elephant ride through the bush. I had done that in Thailand and decided to walk out to the historic Victoria Falls Bridge with Celline instead. Besides, the two optional tours were overpriced.
We started out toward the bridge on the hotel’s private pathway, accompanied as usual by a security agent. I think that the Zimbabwe government wants to make sure that there are no mishaps for tourists that might put a damper on tourism to this sight. When we approached the bridge I videoed women
carrying heavy loads balanced on their heads (above). A cute little monkey scampered along the roadway. We walked through the busy immigration buildings and unto the bridge itself. Midway across the bridge we paused to observe the turbulent water in the canyon below. I scanned the canyon then zoomed in on our hotel in the distance.
Here, in between Zimbabwe and Zambia, bungee jumpers made the daredevil plunge. I waited while one young lady was pre-paring to leap. She appeared quite nervous. The moment she leaped was captured on my video. I then leaned over the rail to catch her dangling on the rope above the water. Later we met her walking on the bridge and we waved to each other.
There were signs on the bridge to indicate the boundary between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Lines had been painted on the walking surface so we knew where we were. We walked over to Zambia and I purchased a souvenir. Only on our return trip back to the Zimbabwean mainland did we realize that we had bypassed the routine immigration procedures. When we were stopped for our required stamped slip, I just went back for clearance and was given stamped forms that we could give to the agent who had stopped us.
Before leaving I took a video of the railroad tracks reaching out across the bridge to Zambia (Northern Rhodesia).
Here was the rail Cecil Rhodes had dreamed of to link all of Africa, from the Cape to Cairo. Having been designed in England the bridge was transported from Europe in pieces and was assembled into one piece bridging Zimbabwe and Zambia in 1906.
Cultural Connection: This afternoon, at 2 pm, we visited the Chinotimba Primary School. The assistant principal, who was formally dressed in a dark suit and tie, greeted us.
he school was quite large and its facilities were much nicer than those I had seen in Kenya and Tanzania (Arusha) in 1998. Like most schools in Africa, classes were held in shifts to better utilize the buildings. I had the impression this was
kind of a show place for Zimbabwe. Actually the country’s education record is not bad. Zimbabwe boasts one of Africa's highest literacy rates. Primary and secondary schools were segregated until 1979. In the first decade after independence in 1980, the educational system was systematically enlarged by the Zimbabwean Government, which was committed to providing free public education to all citizens on an equal basis. Though in the late 1970s only 50% of the black children (5-19 years old) were listed officially as attending rural schools, today most children attend primary school despite the fact that school fees are now charged for all schools at all levels.
The assistant principal led our group to a classroom where young children would sing and dance for us. They had a nice program and we thoroughly enjoyed it. One technique was used that reminded me of the African school in Arusha where one young talented girl would serve as a chanter and introduce sections of music. The other children would then respond in chorus like fashion. The children at this school seemed happy and well behaved.
After the performance we moved to another classroom where we could walk around and observe students working with text material.
At 3:30 pm we headed for an optional sunset cruise on the Zambezi River. We boarded a nice large sightseeing vessel that offered much room for viewing this great river. Although the enormous torrents are what Victoria Falls are renowned for, the broad Zambezi River above the falls is a scenic wonder that should not be overlooked. We explored among the multiple channels and jungle islands that dot the wide river. Our boat even hit the shores of islands belonging to Zambia. Refreshments were served.
Cultural Connection: At 6 pm this evening our driver escorted our tribe into the Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve for a bush dinner, with African dancing and a mini-theater presentation. This was really
a unique experience. Out in the middle of a dark nowhere a buffet of hot food was lined up for our eating pleasure. After dinner we turned to face an area set aside for the performers. Because my camcorder is sensitive to flood lights, I positioned myself off to the side. The exuberant dancers kept pace with the drummers and singers.
The entertainment closed with audience participation. We returned to our lodge at 9 pm to find two very large elephants rumbling across the entrance. They appeared as if they owned the place and seemed oblivious to any destruction caused by their massive size to the landscape or chain fences. Of course they left mounds of other evidence as signatures of their visit.
Lodging: Victoria Falls Hotel.
Day 9 May 22 Friday --- Victoria Falls
Cape Town, South Africa
After a satisfying buffet breakfast I put my luggage out for the porter and situated myself by the hotel’s
entrance area.
Soon baboons descended to amuse me. The little ones were like children at play chasing
each other. The hotel personnel did not appreciate them, however, but the little guys keep coming back.
It was fun watching them shinny up the drainpipes of the hotel and perch up on the roofs. A hotel clerk
asked me if I would like to be a millionaire and gave me some Zimbabwe money for billions and
trillions of dollars. I gave him a US dollar and made him rich, too.
