Preface:
Annette and Fred thought it would be nice to take a long excursion into the Maritime Provinces of Canada. We could think of no better travel companions than Annette’s sister Irma and her husband Mike. Our dodge van could accommodate the four of us and we could set up lunch breaks by lifting up the rear door and using the back storage area. The combination was perfect and we had a memorable trip.
July 2, Wednesday.
We left New Ulm in the morning and drove 230 miles to Duluth, primarily on I35, then drove an additional 186 miles to Thunder Bay, Canada. The B&B we were looking for had been featured in the Minneapolis Tribune. The Unicorn Inn, just off of hwy 61 was a beautifully renovated old Finnish homestead with handwoven carpets and wood-burning stoves in each bedroom, The price, including the breakfast was $57 Canadian. In US dollar then was worth more than the Canadian so everything seemed less expensive.
July 3, Thursday
Our B&B breakfast was something else. We had German souffle and strawberries, not to mention the baked scones and homemade jam. Everything was nice and charming. The window boxes added to the homey atmosphere.
Unfortunately, the heavy rain during the night washed out the highway in our lesson plans. There are not too many highways in Canada, so that meant we had to backtrack to Duluth and go below Lake Superior via Wisconsin and the Upper Peninsula of Michigan to reach Sault Ste Marie, Ontario.
We stayed at the Holiday Inn Sault Sainte Marie, a first-class hotel located on the Sault Ste. Marie waterfront overlooking the north shore of St. Mary's River. The Canadian Locks were visible from the hotel, We appreciated the nice boardwalk along river.
We took a morning tour of the 1887 Canadian Locks (which were under repair and being reconstructed as a recreational site).
After our tour we ate lunch and headed for our next objective, Ottawa. We stayed at the Ottawa Holiday Inn Center near Market Square. We were located on the river that separates Ontario from Quebec. (#20 on the map) The rate was $65 Canadian or $46 US. I had made arrangements because of the special price. That and the great location.
Although it was dark and was getting late, Annette and Fred walked over to see the busy street life around Market Square. The original market building was constructed in 1848 and the current one was built in 1926. It was renovated in 1975 and re-opened in 1976. At this time the building became a domain for Art and Craft producers.
July 5, Saturday.
Our hotel location could not have been better. We could easily walk over the historic Rideau Canal (Canal built as a defensive measure, but now serves a recreational purpose). See map above with route in yellow.
There was time for a leisure walk along Parliament Hill to see all the government buildings. First off I videotaped a statute of Queen Victoria who was queen when modern Canada was born
Library of Parliament
Parliament Building
One site was very familiar to me. The National Archives of Canada building. I had “lived” here for 6 weeks doing research for my PhD dissertation.
We looked up the time for the changing of the guard ceremony and then found a comfortable bench to wait for the action.
The ceremony was worth the wait.
On the way back to the hotel to check out of the hotel we walked past flower and fruit stands of the Market Place.
That day we still managed to drive 287 miles to Quebec City, Quebec. We tool hwy 417 out of Ottawa about 50 miles to hwy 40, and then hwy 40 to Quebec -- all freeway driving. This took us through Montreal where we followed the St. Lawrence River (on our right).
Our lodging at a B&B inside the walls of the old city was an ideal location and walking distance to the historic district.
Our B&B was called La Maison Lafleur, located on 2 rue Lavel. The rooms cost $60 Canadian each. We were situated on a narrow street that had a charming olde world appearance.
We still had time to walk up to the Old City Wall at the end of the street. Here were massive canons overlooking the waterfront below.
The quaint streets were perfect for a stroll so we headed to the lower city below Chateau Frontenac and then down to the LeChaude Restaurant. How nice to eat and drink wine in a French setting along the street.
July 6, Sunday
The serving area for breakfast in our B&B was quaint and the dishes all looked like antiques.
Mike and Fred summoned a driver for a horse carriage tour of Quebec City. Our French-born driver took us along the upper town.
We were able to see the Parliament Building which features the Second Empire architectural style that was popular for prestigious buildings both in Europe (especially France where the style originated) and the United States during the Victorian era. Although s somewhat more sober in appearance and lacking a towering central belfry, Quebec City's Parliament Building bears a definite likeness to the Philadelphia City Hall.
Another important site was the Plains of Abraham (painting by Benjamin West on right). The culmination of a three-month siege by the British, the battle lasted about an hour. British troops commanded by General James Wolfe successfully resisted the column advance of French troops and Canadian military under Louis-Joseph, Marquis de Montcalm, using new tactics that proved extremely effective against standard military formations used in most large European conflicts. Both generals were mortally wounded during the battle.
Wolfe used an easy access road to climb to the plain. Thus, by the time the sun rose over the Plains of Abraham, Wolfe's army had a solid foothold at the top of the cliffs. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Another interesting site was this statue of Joan of Arc. Joan's misfortunes begin in May 1430. In a skirmish against the Burgundians at Compiègne she fell from her horse and was captured. Over the next few months her fate as a captive was hotly contested. The university of Paris, shamelessly partisan for the English cause, demanded that she be handed over for trial as a heretic. May 1431 she was burnt at the stake as a relapsed heretic. The death of the saint in Rouen (Joan is finally canonized in 1920) came less than thirty months after the departure of the 16-year-old girl from her village home for the French cause.
Our horse stopped at a fountain to quell his thirst.
We continued on down a street of beautiful ornate Victorian buildings.
After our pleasant carriage ride we visited the famous Chateau Frontenac. The Château Frontenac, designed by the American architect Bruce Price, was one of a series of "château" style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway company at the end of the 19th and the start of the 20th century. The railway company sought to encourage luxury tourism and bring wealthy travelers to its trains. The Château Frontenac opened in 1893.
We explored the wide hallways on the lower level that was lined with exclusive shops. The whole hotel radiated Victorian exuberance.
Back outside we walked through a park-like setting where an artist was at work painting a scenic inter- section of Victorian buildings. As we strolled along a passageway of shops where artists were selling their paintings. We were overcome and purchased a set of 3 small paintings.
Before concluding our tour, we stopped at Norte Dame Basilica to take a look at the interior.
Having completed our city tour, we took in a meal at another traditional sidewalk cafe.
Afterwards, we checked out of our lovely B&B and headed out of the city, going past the historic Citadel on the heights above . The Citadel was the largest British fortress built in North America. A unique location, it is an active military garrison, some of whose walls enclose 300 years of military history in Quebec City spanning the French, British and Canadian periods.
Then we crossed the St. Lawrence River bridge to hwy 20 and drove 160 miles to Edmundston, New Brunswick via hwy 185. The St. Lawrence River was now on our left. Lodging had been reserved at the Edmundston Comfort Inn ($62 US). Our evening meal in Edmundston included fish and shrimp at a fancy restaurant.
July 7, Monday
Included early morning breakfast at the Comfort Inn. After a grocery shop, we drove to Grand Falls (see center of the map).
The Grand Falls Grand Sault was very scenic. Here St. John’s River was on its long journey to the Bay of Fundy (which we will see much later on in the trip).
Feeling venturesome, we departed from our lesson plan which had us going to Fredericton NB on hwy 2 and then to Pictou, NB, we decided instead to take a shortcut on a lonely stretch of highway across the province. At the end of this stretch (with no gas stations, but nice scenery), we stopped for a picnic lunch.
From here we proceeded toward the Confederation Bridge, stopping only to enjoy the flowers and the shoreline at Murray Beach along the coast.
At Cape Tormentine, NB, we took the Confederation Bridge to Bordon-Carleton.
Tolls are paid only when exiting Prince Edward Island; the current toll rate is C$42.50 for a two-axle automobile, with other rates for different types of vehicles. While pedestrians and cyclists are not permitted to cross, Oddly enough, we could not find a toll booth when we exited the bridge; after several attempts we finally gave up.
We did visit the Gateway Visitor Center to view ted exhibits there.
We drove eastward to Victoria, a quaint town on the Northumberland Sea. The tide was really leaving large areas of the sea without water cover. We were amazed at how far out people would go in the void.
Here we had fish and lobster at the Seawinds Restaurant on Victoria wharf.
Half an hour later we reached our lodge at Charlottetown, the capitol of Prince Edward Island. The Comfort Inn, 112 Trans-Canada Highway, charged only $53.40 US.
July 8, Tuesday
After our included deluxe continental breakfast, we set out to visit Charlottetown, the birthplace of Canada, after the historic 1864 Charlottetown Conference which led to Confederation. We visited the meeting place (right), the Province House on Queen Square.
Then we proceeded to the northern coast of Prince Edward Island and around Prince Edward Island National Park.
The sandy coast was beautiful so we got out of the van and soaked it in.
Our next objective was the House of Green Gables made famous by the Canadian author L.M. Montgomery.
Here we not only visited the famous house, but spent time in the Visitors’ Center watching a movie and shopping. Naturally, we purchased a doll of Ann of Green Gables.
We decided to see the North Rustico Light House on the Bay of Lawrence (see map above).
The well-known white and red structure was nested among stored lobster traps.
We headed back to Charlottetown, this time to drive around the harbor to see the waterfront and Victoria Park. The most photographed feature of Victoria Park, the cannons at Fort Edward continue to attract tourists. The wooden planks under the cannons were replaced by cement in the 1930s.
As the Park looks today.
We had a chance to see the nearby Beaconsfield House. Built in 1877 for a wealthy shipbuilder and merchant, Beaconsfield stands as an enduring symbol of Victorian elegance. With twenty-five rooms, eight fireplaces and imported chandeliers, Beaconsfield was one of Charlottetown’s finest homes.
We proceeded eastward along the southern coastal region toward the ferry terminal at Woods Island,
Our timing was good as we arrived in time to join the line that would soon be driving into the mouth of the ship.
Our parting view of Prince Edward Island was a lighthouse along the shore. On the videotape, Mike, Irma and Annette watched from the front of the ship,
GO ON TO EASTERN CANADA PART II NOVA SCOTIA & CAPE BRITON ISLAND
