Preface: A fellow professor, Darwin Raddatz of Martin Luther College, joined me on this trip with Cosmos Travel at the termination of the 1996-7 school year. Darwin was a valuable asset on the trip, not only because of his being a friendly companion, but for providing insights in the history of the areas visited, since this was in his field of teaching responsibilities. Actually,the entire group benefited from his shared knowledge.
May 22nd, Thursday
Darvin’s son Mike drove us to the airport, leaving New Ulm at 11 am. We boarded flight Northwest 8664 from Minneapolis to Amsterdam.
May 23rd, Friday
While we were waiting for our flight to Athens, an announcement was made over the PA that passengers who wished to take a different flight to Athens in exchange for a cash rebate should contact the information desk. We though, Why not? and availed ourselves. Our alternate flight was stalled on the runway before we ended up on a flight to Milan.
After security checks at the Milan Airport, and additional waiting, we boarded a connected flight to Athens. Our taxi driver in Athens drove like he was in the Indianapolis 500 and made liberal use of his horn.
At last we reached our destination -- Hotel Christina on Petmeza Street where we met our fellow Cosmos companions and the tour director. The best part of this superior tourist rating hotel was the location.
May 24th, Saturday
Our included tour of the day was sightseeing featuring the highlights of the ancient capital. First there was 1976 Olympic Stadium and then Constitution Square. The Square is named ]after the Constitution that King Otto was forced to grant the people after a popular and military uprising, on September 3, 1843.
The highlight of the tour of course was a visit to the Acropolis or “High City.” THe Acropolis is a testament to the Golden Age of Greece. From the Acropolis we had a panoramic view of the city
below.
Of special interest was the Areopagus, a limestone hill also called Mars Hill. From the outcrop St. Paul delivered his sermon on the “Unknown God.”
We proceeded to the Parthenon, the architectural masterpiece conceived by Pericles and executed between 447 and 438 by the brilliant sculpture sculptor Pheidias.
We also appreciated the graceful all-marble Temple of Athena Nike near the Boule Gate (where we had entered the Acropolis) on the left side of map.
From our vantage point of the Temple Nike we could see in the distance the Monument of Filopappus, honoring the Syrian prince who was a distinguished Athenian and a Roman consul.
Immediately below us was the Odeon of Herod Atticus, a concert hall built for the son-in-law of Emperor Augustus.
A little further eastward was the Theatre of Dionysius (330 BC), also far below us.
And then in the distance, near the Plaka section of Athens and only about 8 blocks from our hotel, was Hadrian’s Gate built in AD 131. The marble arch and gateway with Corinthian details was intended to honor Hadrian and to separate the ancient and imperial sections of Athens.
Beyond the gate is the enormous Temple of Olympian Zeus. Begun in the 6th century BC, it was completed by Hadrian in AD 132. Only 15 of the original huge Corinthian columns remain.
Before leaving the Acropolis plateau, we visited the Acropolis Museum with its collection of sculptures and vases found on the Acropolis.
This museum holds 5 of the 6 Caryatids (columns in the shape of women removed from their original location on the Erechtheum). Most of the treasures here date from the transition period from Archaic to Classical Greek art (550-400 BC). Only a few pieces from the Parthenon are here since Lord Elgin helped himself to the rest and they are now in the British Museum.
Our bus waiting for us to take us on our optional tour through the barren seaside hills to Cape Sounion.
Here we viewed the ruins of the magnificent Temple of Poseidon, the god of the sea. The ruins still stand on a promontory high above the coast. The original structure was constructed around 600 BC, but destroyed by the Persians (480 BC) Pericles rebuilt it 440 BC. The 16 remaining doric columns still suggest the graceful symmetry of the original temple.
Later that evening we joined the group for a Greek night out at the Old Stables. This restaurant (established in 1929) is a journey into the colorful character of the past. Everything has been done to preserve the quaint ancestral stone buildings. It is situated in Koropi,a small village in a famous vineyard area, (30 minutes drive from Athens).We were welcomed by a hospitable, friendly staff dressed in traditional Greek costumes.
The dinning area was very spacious and the Greek food excellent (except the dessert).
The entertainment was great! Folkloric dances were performed by Greek dancers dressed in a variety of colorful authentic costumes vitalizing the legend of the Greek tradition through the centuries.
May 25th, Sunday
After a nice buffet breakfast at the Hotel Christina we headed to northern Greece. Our first stop was along the Aegean in view of Euboea shown as EVIA on the map (right in center of map).
Evia is the second largest island (after Crete) in Greece. The island in ancient times was a major maritime trading center.
An important stop on our northward journey was a monument to the Spartan king Leonidas at Thermopylae (“the hot gates”). The monuments central feature is the large figure of Leonidas. The building wings to the side had a mural-like sculpture depicting the Spartan warriors in battle.
Vastly outnumbered, the Greeks held off the Persians for seven days, before the rear-guard was annihilated in one of history's most famous last stands During two full days of battle, the small force led by Leonidas blocked the only road by which the massive Persian army could pass. After the second day of battle, a local resident betrayed the Greeks by revealing a small path that led behind the Greek lines.
Aware that his force was being outflanked, the king dismissed the bulk of the Greek army, and remained to guard the rear, the vast majority of whom were killed. Professor Raddatz had to correct the guide who had the story all wrong.
The site of the battle today; the road to the right is built on reclaimed land and approximates the 480 BC shoreline.
Our drive took us past a well preserved 13th century fortification at Platamon.
Later we passed the mighty 9,620 feet high Mount Olympus (throne of the Pantheon of Greek gods).
The terrain of Greece is quite rugged; some 80% of the land is mountainous.
We proceeded onward to near our final destination in Macedonia--SalonikaSalonika (or Thessaloniki), the second largest city and port in Greece. Thessaloniki was established in 316 BC and named after the sister of Alexander the Great.
We continued on to Kavala (map), an oriental-looking town with a beautiful bay facing the Island of Thassos.
We spent the evening at the Hotel Oceanis (change from earlier information) in Kavala.
I wanted the driver to take us up to Philippi which was only 15 km north of Kavala, but he couldn’t be persuaded to deviate from the itinerary. In 50 AD, Paul and Silas arrived from Anatolia to preach Christianity here. Lydia was baptized here. Paul was imprisoned here. His cell is pictured at right. Too bad we had to miss this site.
Our hotel was conveniently located in the city so we walked over to the harbor for a view of the sprawling 13th century Byzantine castle. The turreted walls dominated the city. In June students celebrate Kavala’s liberation from the Turks by performing dances at the castle.
We returned to our hotel for dinner of chicken with Hollandaise sauce over noodles. After dinner Dar and I searched for the the colossal Kamares 1262 Aqueduct at the north end of the old town, near Nikotasara Square. Suleyman the Magnificent had the double tiered structure built to transport water from mountain springs above the city. MUCH MORE ABOUT THESSALONIKI IN BALKANS
PART III FROM OUR RETURN TRIP.
Sleep came easily that night after such a full day.
May 26, Monday
After an ample breakfast we took our assigned places on the bus. One couple who had put up a nasty confrontation with our tour guide, relinquished the front seat and took their assigned seats just like the rest of us. We had almost lost them earlier because they got off the bus when they were told to rotate. They accused the tour director of being anti-Jewish and said they were being discriminated against because “you no lika my face.” A self appointed group of fellow travelers negotiated as a peace-keeping committee. They tried to explain that seat rotation was a universal procedure used on bus tours. The disgruntled couple reluctantly got back on the bus. Our tour guide then said any further disruptions would result in expulsion from the tour. The response to his announcement was a hearty outburst of applause.
All in our places with bright happy faces, we moved on through Thracian tobacco fields through Zanthi, a town of quaint Greco-Turkish houses and then to the port of Alexandropoilis where we made a lunch stop. The city was visited by Alexander I of Greece after WWI amidst great celebration. He was the first king of Greece to visit the town which was renamed in his honor.
We crossed to Tekirdag and then skirted the coast of the Marma Sea. Finally we reached the Turkish border. Greece and Turkey have always had a turbulent relationship. Armed guards on the Turkish side did not appreciate my videotaping them, actually, they were furious. Our guide shouted out “Who is taking pictures?” I reluctantly stopped the taping.
Soon we were in the great city of Istanbul and checked in at the Hotel Askoc (superior tourist rating). From the hotel, guests can walk just steps to the bank, the post office, Grand Bazaar, Egyptian Bazaar, St. Sophia Museum, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Museum, and Archeological Museum. Our bus had a difficult time driving the narrow streets and going around parked cars to get up close.
Dar and I walked down to the waterfront. Eminonu square boasts the Egyptian (spices) bazaar and the Yeni Mosque along with the Central Post Office and the nearby Sirkeci Station. In the picture you can see fresh first catch of the day charcoal grilled for a tasty bite that ferry passengers can enjoy on
Eminonu waterfront.
Pretzel-like breadsticks and cobs of corn were sold by a number of street vendors.
May 27th, Tuesday
Today we participated in a city tour of Istanbul, which touched on the city’s major sights. We started out with the Hippodrome, a park where Byzantine emperors once presided over chariot races and circuses. In the Nika Riot of AD 532, some 30,000 people were massacred as Justinian’s troops put an end to the riots in the city.
In the Hippodrome stands the granite Egyptian Obelisk, the upper part of an obelisk by Thutmos III from the 15th century Bc, which was brought to Constantinople in AD 390.
Facing us was the famous Blue Mosque (1609-1617) by Sultan Ahmet I in a brazen attempt to one-up Justinian’s Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia). I zoomed in with my camcorder on one of the six minarets, controversial minarets because thy matched the six minarets in Mecca. To avoid offense with religious leaders, Ahmet built a seventh minaret in Mecca.
We walked through the entrance into the courtyard of the Blue Mosque where we observed more clearly the many domes of that graced the building. Here our most capable guide explained about the origin of the minarets among the Muslims.
To enter the Mosque proper, modest dress in required and one must remove his shoes. The shimmering blue tiles of the interior, made at Iznik in Anatolia, explain the name Blue Mosque.
The domed ceilings and walls were very decorative. Arches were in the traditional arabesque red and white stripes. The two lanterns were arranged so as to give directions to Mecca.
As we stepped outside we were greeted by a view of Justinian’s Hagia Sophia, which will be included in a later tour.
Every tour company arranges for commercial stops for its captive audience. Since Turkey is famous for its carpets it was not a surprise that we visited a carpet establishment. The presenter here explained the difference between tribal carpets (wool w/large knots) and city carpets (more expensive because of the larger number of knots and the use of cotton and/or silk).
Dar and I chose to walk back to the hotel via the Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar was really busy when we were there, possibly because it was around lunch time. We ate at at one of the stands. This maze of 65 winding covered streets hides over 4,000 businesses. It makes the Mall of America look like a neighborhood store.
We strolled past peddlers selling leather goods, jewelry, pistachios, shish kabobs, iced drinks, black coffee, etc. Tourist have to beware of false and faulty merchandise -- and prices may be inflated 300-400%. Still, this is the place to shop.
At a shop featuring decorative metal ware, Dar and I both were attracted to metal serving trays that could be used as gifts for the folks back home or for use as wall decorations. After intense negotiations, we reached our price range and purchased several. Since they could be stacked nicely in our suitcases, we would have no trouble getting them home.
Towards the end of our bazaar wandering, we saw little colorful tops spinning on the walkway. They were inexpensive so we helped the local economy.
As we neared our hotel, we stopped at the historic Sirkecci Train Station. In front of the building was an original train (made in Germany) that was part of the Berlin to Bagdad history. The train dated back to 1874 when the station was built. A plaque nearby stated that this was inaugurated as the terminus of the famous Orient Express.
The terminal is one of the most famous examples of European Orientalism, and has influenced the designs of other architects. The building was also modern in its day, having gas lighting and heating in winter.
That evening we signed up for a Turkish meal (feast) and traditional Turkish folk dances and belly dancing. Even though this was Muslim country, they served alcoholic beverages to tourist.
May 28th, Wednesday
We started off the morning with an amble breakfast served at the hotel. Then at 9 am we left for our sightseeing boat down at the wharf for our trip on the Bosporus.
As we progressed down the Golden Horn, it became evident that Istanbul had many mosques (600 of them). The most prominent one shown here is the Yeni or New Mosque (built between 1597 and 1663).
We toured the Bosporus in two parts, the first along the European shore (left side) and then the Asian side on the right for the return trip.
Almost 600 meters long is the Dolmabahce Palace built in the mid 19th century by Sultan Abdul Mecit. Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic, died here in 1938.
A little further was the Palace of Ciragon built in 1863-1867. This palace was burned out completely in 1910, but was restored in 1992, and is now used as a five star hotel.
We passed under the 1972 Bosporus Bridge.
Just beyond the bridge was the Rumeli Fortress (Rumelihisari), located on the European (Rumeli) side of the Bosporus. It was built by Mehmed II in four months beginning in the spring of 1452 across the waters from the Anatolian Fortress built by his grandfather Bayezid I (1389-1402). The aim was to establish control of the waterway at this narrowest point of the strait (660 m) where ships would need to approach the shore to avoid the strong currents.
A battalion of four hundred soldiers prevented the passage of ships with canon fire during the siege of Constantinople. It is hence, also known as the Bogazkesen or the Controller of the Straits.
Having completed the 19 mile stretch of the Bosporus, we made a U turn and began our look at the Asiatic side of the river. We came across the former hospital where the English nurse Florence Nightingale tended to the wounded in the Battle of the Crimea. Nightingale turned around the British mortality rate by merely improving cleanliness and hygiene. The building has just been formed into a school of medicine.
Our next sighting was the Beylerbeyi Palace (Saray). Beylerbeyi Palace is the largest and most elegant Ottoman Palace on the Asian Shore of the Bosporus. Built in 1885, it was used as a guest house for the sultans.
After the cruise we visited the St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral. Since the fall of the Ottomans and the rise of modern Turkish nationalism most of the Greek Orthodox population of Istanbul has emigrated, leaving the Patriarch in the anomalous position of a leader without a flock, at least locally.
Today the Church of St George serves mainly as the symbolic centre of the Ecumenical Patriarchate, and as a centre of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians. The church is financially supported by donations from Orthodox communities in other countries.
The Patriarch’s Seat had a canopy over it and distinguished guests sat to the left of it. The Fener (Phanar), which is the administrative center of the Ecumenical Patriarch, is somewhat akin to the Vatican in the Roman tradition. St. George’s Cathedral is small, reflecting the diminished status of Orthodoxy here in Turkey — only a few thousand Orthodox Christians remain in Istanbul. Yet it is still the spiritual center of Eastern Orthodoxy, comprising some half a billion of the world’s Christians.
Nearby Greek community ...
... and Greek high school (for students ages 15 to 18 years) in Istanbul.
Our afternoon started with a tour of the Hagia Sophia, the fourth largest basilica in the world, behind St. Peter’s in Rome, St. Paul’s in London and St. Paul’s of Milan. The exterior of this structure has a reddish hue.
Hagia Sophia (“Holy Wisdom”), was a former Orthodox patriarchal basilica, later a mosque and now a museum . From the date of its dedication in 360 until 1453, it served as the cathedral of Constantinople, except between 1204 and 1261, when it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral. The building was a mosque from 29 May 1453 until 1934, when it was secularized by Ataturk and opened as a museum on 1 February 1935.
Once inside the former church/mosque we witnessed this beautiful mosaic of Christ seated on a jeweled throne. In the mosaic He raises His right hand in blessing and in his left He holds a book with the inscription “Peace be with you. I am the Light of the World.”
The immense dome, which is built of light bricks from Rhodes is supported by four enormous columns. As a concession to its Islamic history Ataturk left up the large circular discs which are inscribed in Arabic with the names of the leading figures in Islam.
When Ataturk, transformed the building into a museum, the carpets were removed and the marble floor decorations appeared for the first time in centuries, while the white plaster covering the mosaics was painstakingly removed by expert restorers. Here is the famous mosaic of Jesus flanked by the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist.
To the right is Emperor John II Komnenos, Virgin Mary and Empress Irene mosaic.
We stopped briefly at the “Moist Column,” also known as the Weeping Column. The Weeping Column has a worn copper facing pierced by a hole. Legend has it that the pillar is that of St. Gregory the Miracle Worker and that putting one's finger in the hole can lead to ailments being healed if the finger comes out moist. Our guide showed us how to position the thumb and fingers.
From the Hagia Sophia we went to the nearby Topkapi Palace. Initial construction began in 1459, ordered by Sultan Mehmed II, the conqueror of Byzantine Constantinople. The palace is a complex made up of courtyards and many smaller buildings. At the height of its existence as a royal residence, the palace was home to as many as 4,000 people. Topkapi Palace gradually lost its importance at the end of the 17th century, as the Sultans preferred to spend more time in their new palaces along the Bosporus.
After the end of the Ottoman Empire in 1921, Topkapi Palace was transformed by government decree into a museum of the imperial era. We entered through the Main Gate.
Our tour included the Old Kitchen and the Imperial Wardrobe collection of garments and armor worn by the sultans.
Many jewels from the Imperial Treasury of the Ottomans are on exhibit in the Palace.
We were allowed to visit the Pavilion of Holy Relics, but no cameras were allowed. Here we saw remnants of Mohammed, his footprints (large foot), a lock of his hair, hair from his beard, soil from his burial site, one of his teeth, etc. We were allowed to take pictures in another room that displayed hand bones of St. John the Baptist mounted in gold.
Before leaving the palace we viewed a map of the Ottoman Empire at various times of its growth.
May 29th, Thursday
We took our last look at the elaborate lobby of the Hotel Askoc as the luggage was being transferred to the bus
After a driving stretch we stopped at Kirkereli. Dar and I walked over to a part of town where no English was spoken, rather than than eat at the bus stop. We watch locals making pork sausage.
Through hand gestures we managed to purchase an excellent lunch of pork sausage patties (a local specialty). The workers had a good time watching us eat. We picked up pieces of a delicious cake next door. We had a nice scenic drive to Bulgaria (map) by driving on the ancient highway known by the Romans as the “Via Egnatia.”
Just 40 miles north of the border, we reached Burgas on the shore of the Black Sea. Our hotel for the night was the Hotel Bulgaria, a 20 story hotel in the center of town.
We walked down the main street, on which the Hotel Bulgaria was located, to the impressive Soviet Soldier Monument. This monument was erected in appreciation to the Soviet army which liberated Bulgaria from the Nazis in World War II. Carved into the stone base was a depiction of Russian troops in combat against the Germans.
Dar and I sought out the historic Orthodox Cathedral of St. Cyril and Methodius that had survived atheistic Communism.
Exterior of the domed cathedral.
Paintings inside of Cyril and Methodius, evangelists who had established the Orthodox Church of Bulgaria.
Later that evening we returned to our hotel. I took a video of the Black Sea from this location.
May 30th, Friday
After a good night sleep and an ample breakfast in the hotel, we headed out to our tour bus which was in the process of being loaded.
Unfortunately, our vehicle was experiencing problems with the supplementary braking system that was linked to the transmission. That was not all bad, because we now had an opportunity to see the central sandy beach of Burgas.
When we returned to the bus we found it was still ailing, but our driver said we could move on if he used only the regular braking system. The air conditioner wasn’t working right either, but we managed. Our lunch stop was made in Varna, another seaside resort. Monuments to the Communist era were still in evidence in the ubiquitous concrete apartment buildings.
GO ON TO 1997 BULKAN PART II
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