MAJORCA OR MALLORCA
GRAND CIRCLE TRAVEL 15 DAYS
JANUARY 8-22, 2001
I couldn’t refuse this tour. The unbelievable price of $1195 less $55 Good Buy Discount was a steal. Furthermore the price was reduced somewhat w/ my frequent traveler discount. AND there was no single supplement. The price included transatlantic air, open bar, all meals with drinks, hotel accommodations, and tours. So I left the January cold of Minnesota for the moderate climate of the Mediterranean Sea
The narrative follows the events as I recorded them on my camcorder. I used some photos from Google with an attempt to avoid copyrighted materials.
MONDAY, January 8
Departure. To reach the departure site in NYC from Minnesota, I used NWA Perk miles, compliments of my daughter and son-in-law (Spodens). At LaGuardia, shuttle service transfered me to JFK. I was met by Grand Circle at JFK. From there I flew Iberia Air to Madrid.
TUESDAY, January 9
Our group was met in Madrid by Grand Circle. As our group waited for the next flight to Mallorca, a beautiful sunrise provided a backdrop for my video shot of Iberia Air planes being taxied on the tarmac. After a brief pleasant flight to Palma, Mallorca, we were met by our friendly Grand Circle guide, Jorge. Jorge served as our guide the entire trip and performed admirably in that role. His first task was to help those of who lost luggage (Sam, Rex, Gary, Mike and myself) file forms with the Iberia Air desk.
When we arrived at the Hotel Sol Guadalupe in Magalluf, I videoed the building which would be home for the next two weeks. Our hotel had a nice location, only a ten minutes walk from the beach. Palma, the capital was a half hour away by bus or taxi. Each room had a balcony or terrace. Most of our group of 26 had rooms on the sixth floor. Among the amenities of the hotel was a large show room for live entertainment, several lounges, indoor and outdoor pools, and an open bar. The entire first floor of the hotel was arranged for these provisions.
Show time that evening featured Flamenco dancers. The whole theatre seating area was decorated with poinsettia plants.
WEDNESDAY, January 10
Breakfast, available starting at 8 a.m., was quite comprehensive: Cheese, meats, veggies, cereal, rolls or pastries, eggs, potatoes, bacon, fried tomatoes, toast, fruit, fruit juices, coffee, etc. At 9:00 a.m. Jorge held a briefing session in a lounge reserved for Grand Circle. He explained the various tours offered and presented a slide lecture about places on the itinerary. All tours were included in our package except the one which provided for a train ride to Soller.
On the bus our guide George explained the agenda for the morning. Our first tour was to Palma, the capital of Mallorca. This metropolis has a population of 300,00 people, and is home to almost half the island’s population.
We started off with a visit to a 14th century castle known as Bellver (#2 on Frommer map above). Construction was carried out by the same master responsible for the Almudana Palace (which we will visit after the castle). This unusual round structure had been beautifully restored and was worthy of a lengthy stay. A sturdy tower presided over the stone structure. The large moat was waterless, but quite impressive.
The circular inner courtyard had a well in the center. From this well Jorge explained the background of the castle. Roman statues graced the passageway that surrounded the courtyard. Jorge took our group through the kitchen area with its soot-darkened ceiling. The castle was host to a collection of interesting artifacts.
From the ramparts we had a beautiful view of Palma, the Bay of Palma, and the surrounding area to the west. The battlements were still intact. From this vantage point I took a shot of our bus parked below in a pine-wooded park setting.
On the way out I took parting shots of the massive moat. As we crossed the street for the bus we encountered a cute dog dressed up for the chilly morning.
Stop two of our tour was the Almudana Palace (#10 on map) next to the majestic cathedral where the first monarchs of Mallorca had lived. It was put on the site of a no longer existent Moslem Alcazar. This royal palace is now used for lodging dignitaries, the most recent Bill, Hillary, and Chelsea Clinton.
At the entrance of the palace was what appeared to be a silver statue of a matador. The “statue” turned to life and greeted us. The Parc de la Mar (on right) runs along side the palace with a pond setting for black swans. An old bridge about 1,000 years old arches over water. Military police guarded the palace from intruders.
The Cathedral (#11) -- the Seo, as the Majorca folk call it, presents in the first place a summary of the artistic currents which existed on the island between the 14th and the 19th centuries. This massive sandstone structure was begun in 1230 and not finished until 1601. According to legend,
King James I ordered its construction after a brush with death in a storm at sea in 1229. The flying buttresses that supported the walls were beautiful and enhanced the architecture of the building.
The main front, which boasts a large rose-window over a 16th century doorway, was rebuilt n the last century. We were not allowed to use camcorders inside to record the high vaults with elegant columns, three naves, and interesting tombs. I was, however, allowed to video one of the silver candelabras -- the largest in the world -- located in the Cathedral Museum.
The old center of Palma has a tree shaded central promenade -- the Paseo Martimo, which served as one of the oldest arteries of the old city. The elongated plaza now serves as the hub of the city’s social life. We stopped at a local coffee shop for drinks with Jorge.
After dinner in the smoke-free dinning room, I went down to Show time to watch the evening entertainment provided by the hotel. This particular evening we were treated to “Hollywood Animation” which included numbers like “Singing in the Rain,” “I want to be Loved by You,” and “YMCA.” Quite a pleasant evening in spite of the smoky atmosphere.
THURSDAY, January 11
This was a day of leisure. Mike and I took a taxi over to the Englesia Catholic Church in Santa Ponca for a free Jazz Festival. The young trio performing was much like one would expect on a college campus. The female soloist was accompanied by a saxophone and an electric guitar. The numbers were in English and quite familiar to the appreciative audience.
At dinner we found the usual excellent fare of food. The meat carvers wore large French chef hats. That evening I again took in the provided Show time entertainment.
FRIDAY, January 12
After a hearty breakfast our group departed for a provided Grand Circle tour. (Map on right) We passed through the cities of Inca and Selva. Before reaching our destination of the Lluch Monastery, we passed a number of olive terraces, some of which were 1,000 years old. Many of olive trees had been trimmed numerous times to produce better fruit, and this gave the trees a gnarled and aged appearance.
This drive through the Tramuntana Mountains was quite winding, but we were offered some beautiful scenery.
Our next visit was to the Lluch Monastery. At the entrance was a fascinating old fountain covered with green moss. The Monastery was originally built in the Gothic style, although the present building dates from the 17th century.
The fame of the monastery is tied to the story of a Cisterian monk and a Moorish shepherd 700 years ago who found a stone image of the Virgin Mary in the cleft of rocks (painting of the scene is in the church). Villagers placed it in a place of honor and it disappeared several times. After it was found again, a chapel was built to house the image. We visited the chapel. In the center of the altar area was a dark painting on a turn table. When the boys’ choir sang the Mary statue revolved to replace the painting.
The monastery still has a hostel for pilgrims. It also has a number of rooms occupied by the “Blauets,” the children ages 9-16 who go to school there and form the monastery choir.
We waited for a scheduled choir concert. Eventually young boys with white and blue choir robes came into the chapel to ring off the altar area and to distribute bulletins. The choir entered and assembled under the revered Virgin Statue. An organist and choir director led the children as they sang in high pitched voices. When the children finished they methodically filed out.
Leaving the monastery, our bus passed through more terraced areas and groves of evergreen oaks. Jorge drew our attention to the foliage. We drove on through Pollensa and viewed the port city from the mountain. Then we set out to the peninsula of Formentor, which can be considered one of the most beautiful spots on Mallorca. A trail and scenic lookout points provided us with spectaculars views of nature at its best. Mike and Rex made good use of their cameras.
The winding road along the coast took us past the well-known Hotel Formentor which had played host to internationally acclaimed personalities as the Prince and Princess of Monaco and the Duke and Duchess of Kent.
The shoreline in the region had a fine sandy beach and beautiful blue sea. Luxuriant pines offered us shade.
We ate “lunch” in a nice restaurant in Polensa. After lunch our bus driver dropped us off for leisure time at the waterfront where lines of boats were moored.
We drove to the village of Alcudia. This walled city is very near the ancient Roman city of Pollentia. This peaceful city can be traced back to the days when it was recolonized after the island’s conquest by James I. In 1362 the first city walls of Alcudia were finished.
I managed to videotape from the bus the Gate of Saint Sebastian, also known as the Gate of Xara, which still remains standing.
I also managed to quickly get a video shot of the 13th century chapel of St. Anne (right)and the 19th century parish church.
Our return trip took us along the Roman Road to Inca. Inca is world famous for its leather production. Jorge gave us time to look over the merchandise at Anthony’s Leather Factory. I took time to walk down to the lower level to observe craftsmen at their work stations.
Back at the Hotel Sol Guadalupe I took a video of my room, the long hallway outside my door, dinner food, the outdoor swimming pool at night, and the patio outside my room. That evening I again took in Show Time in the entertainment center.
SATURDAY, January 13
Fortified by a hefty breakfast we set out to the public bus stop to be transported to Palma. (Map) Our objective for the morning was the vast flea market located on the Gabriel Alomar. Just about anything could be found at the market from clothing to potato corers to toy animals. I ended up purchasing a toy kitten for our cats. Because this was a day dedicated to Saint Antonio, I walked toward the town center in hopes of seeing some of the festival (“parade”). I arrived too late, but I did video some beautiful architecture en route.
The first impressive building was at Plaza Weyler (right) and second located at Plaza Mercat.
I then headed to the Paseo del Born and the Promenade. Before boarding the Yellow Bus home.
I encountered a silver witch “statue” by the entrance of the Royal Palace. She was motionless until I came by and then she showed me her checkered black and white teeth. Back at the hotel, I took in the Showtime entertainment.
SUNDAY, January 14
Today we had another included GCT tour. This one took us to the country house of La Granja. This ancestral rural palace brought us back in time to another era. The scenery here was outstanding and provided a charming backdrop for the mansion.
We were greeted by costumed guides who ushered us into a setting of Mallorcan folklore. Fountains everywhere gushed water supplied by natural sources.
We walked through numerous rooms that had been occupied by Moors and later Cisterian monks.
These rooms now served as museums of a bygone era, housing everything from elegant furniture, antique doll (right).
Our tour ended in a courtyard where complimentary beverages were served. Mike helped himself to fresh orange juice while others sampled the wine from the line of kegs set out for us. We refreshed ourselves among the statutes placed around the courtyard.
At the exit we were treated to Mallorcan delicacies that included fritters, jams, fig cakes, “sobrassada,” (right) and cheese. Then Rex, Jorge and I sat down for Valldemosacappuccino while waiting for the others to gather. Sobrassada is a raw, cured sausage from the Balearic Islands made with ground pork, paprika and salt and other spices
A short drive took us to picturesque ancient mountain town of Valldemosa. From the bus we could observe that the city was set in a valley of singular beauty with tiers of old stone buildings.
The monastery we were to visit stood out in the sky line. Our objective here was the former Carthusian Monastery, La Cartuja. During the winter of 1938-1839 it served as the love nest of the Polish composer Frederick Chopin and his mistress George Sand. We began our tour with the attached church or basilica.
Two carved wooden statues (one of John the Baptist) were on either side of the altar area. Above the altar was an image of the Lady of Sorrows, a local female saint highly regarded in Mallorca.
Just outside the church was the attached walkway formerly used by the monks. To the left were doors to the cells and to the right was the central courtyard.
Our guide Jorge led us to the library which still housed many original editions of books. In this setting Jorge explained the use of the library by monks. He also talked of the vows that that were taken by the monks. We walked through a number of cells and the patios outside the cells. These “balconies” were park like with narrow walkways, shrubs and flowers. From here we had a commanding view of the city and countryside.
Our tour also took us to a room set aside to illustrate a monk’s austere living quarters as it would have been in earlier years as a monastery.
Finally we came to the cell used by Frederick Chopin. The building was no longer a monastery when he stayed here with the French novelist George Sands, but the rooms were still like cells. Their room now housed the piano that Chopin first used there and had been used to write beautiful well-known music. The original manuscripts of his work are enclosed in glass cases. Chopin came here in an unsuccessful attempt to cure his tuberculosis.
He died a young man as was evident from the copy of his death mask. Next to the death mask was a copy of his left hand that was used to play the keys as he wrote his music. His girlfriend, shown in a picture at age 39, also died at an early age. Our visit to the monastery was concluded with a piano concert comprised of music Chopin wrote while staying here.
We walked the streets of the old town during our free time, a time some used to browse through the many shops. Finally we had to leave the lovely city and headed homeward. Along the way we saw the ubiquitous olive and almond groves. Back at the hotel I videoed the modern sculptured fountain by the entrance. That night Show Time treated us to “Cabaret” which featured numbers like “New York, New York.”
MONDAY, January 15
Today was a free day for relaxation. I thought I should walk over to the beach and check it out. I had a nice view of the Island de sa Porrassa just off the coast. A jacket in one of the shops caught my eye so I tried it on. I really didn’t need a coat, but the price had been slashed from 7,999 pts to 4,999 pts. to what amounted to $28US. Possibly the reduction was because of the size--XXXL, but that was just right for me. Not many people were shopping this morning so I had plenty of space. Back at the hotel the entertainment crew was practicing for the evening Show Time that featured Thai music as well as Spanish.
TUESDAY, January 16
As our bus pulled out of Magalluf we saw the most beautiful rainbow with a complete arch that touched down in front of us. Along the Bay (Bahia) of Palma was a luxury boat “Lady Moura” that had been given to a Palma surgeon by a Saudi sheik as a gift to show his gratitude for a successful operation. The trademark cathedral was passed en route to Santanyi. In Santanyi I took a passing shot of a 1722 historic building.
Our major destination of the day was the beautiful Cala Figuera (See map on the right; the port is located on the lower east coast).
Here we saw a lovely cove punctuated with a lighthouse. It was raining out so we headed for shelter inside a coffee shop. Sam had planned to stay dry in the bus but the driver kicked him out. Sam then joined us at the coffee house. Generous Mike bought and brought warm brandy with chocolate. The rain let up and we ventured out again.
Water droplets on pine needles warranted a video shot. Fishing boats were moored at the docks and fishermen were seen mending their nets.
We continued on to the southern coastline where we encountered evidence of a salt industry. The piles of salt in the video were near Colonia de Sant Jorge.
We ate at a nearby restaurant in the countryside, “Ses Roques,” that served exclusively Mallorcan food. After bread and wine we served generous portions of soup with farm rice, “Aros Brut.” Next came the “Lomo con Col” or pork filet and cabbage. Sam was taken in by the cabbage that covered the meat. The meal was topped off with dessert “Sato and Helado” and coffee.
Next on the agenda was the Botanicus, the island’s botanical gardens. The rain had picked up but we managed to see cacti, Birds of Paradise, orange trees, and some exotic plants before seeking refuge back in the bus. We continued to drive along the coast.
The rain ceased enabling us to tour some prehistoric ruins at Capocorb Vell, The stone foundations date back to 2000 BC. This site was the main megalithic villages in the western Mediterranean. The man-made buildings were considered relatively advanced because of the connecting rooms.
We continued along the seacoast with the sea to our left. (Map) toward Palma. The evening show in the hotel that night featured a magic special that was quite interesting.
WEDNESDAY, January 17
Mike, Rex an I walked to Palma Nova on a shopping expedition which gave me an opportunity to video the long beach there. Since the weather was a little on the cool side, only a few children ventured to swim. Mike bought out one of the shops. Gary joined us near Palma Nova and helped carry the merchandise back to the hotel. I purchased earrings and a tee shirt for Annette. The evening Showtime was well done as the performers did Cabaret much in the style of the Lisa movie.
THURSDAY, January, 18
Today we were scheduled for another included tour, this one to the eastern-most part of Mallorca. We left Magalluf and drove through the city of Palma via the waterfront. Just outside Palma was a large monument of “Nuredunna,” the goddess of Greek genius. She appears to be homesick, looking out toward Greece. This figure is based upon a book Lolta i Llobero.
Our drive continued through the countryside dotted with windmills. Windmills in Mallorca have become a symbol of the country. Their unique style is from the Ramell wind mill. Ramell means a flower in bloom. The wooden slats of these branch out like pedals and converge on a wooden wheel. By 1870 the arrow shaped tail had been added. Mallorca windmills are traditionally painted in white and blue, symbolizing the wind and the water. With the increased use of electricity to pump water, the windmills are no longer needed. The windmills seen around the island today have been restored as objects of beauty and symbols of the past.
We reached Porto Cristo (see map above), a port city active since Roman times. The nearby Cuevas del Drach (Dragon Caves) are known all over the world. We walked through cavern on well laid out paths, stopping sporadically to soak in the beauty of the fanciful formations in limestone.
The main part of the tour was at Martel Lake, one of the largest crystalline underground lakes in the world. From a boat on the lake, a small orchestra bids the visitor farewell with a recital of classical music.
On the return trip we visited a pearl factory in Manacor which manufactured authentic Majorca Pearls. Although it was lunch break, there were representative workers performing their tasks. One of the major operations was dipping the pearls into a solution made from fish scales. They were dipped over and over again to accumulate layers to duplicate the process used by oysters. Many inspections were made to keep the layers free from flaws. The company says they are more flawless than those made by the oysters. These expensive imitation pearls have created a major industry in Mallorca. After the tour we had free time in Manacor to shop, but Rex and I walked around the city in search of the cathedral. We got half an hour’s worth of exercise, but never saw the church.
We did, however, make it to the Via Roma in town. Our walk finished, we returned to the group and looked over the large showroom outside the pearl factory.
Our bus driver then drove us out to the country near Petra where we were to take in a farm hosted dinner. This was at a real working farm with sheep, cows, and the works. The farmer and his wife came out to greet the bus and to lead us to tables in an open shed. We ate well, starting with fruit and wine, followed by home made bread and sausage, and pizza-like squares. “Grandma” came out to visit our group, while the farmer grilled pork steaks over hot coals. When we left, very satisfied, the family shook hands with us and gave hugs of farewell.
Our contented band then headed to nearby Petra where the bus parked on the skirt of town. We walked down a narrow street to the Centro and turned left at the large church. This was the church attended by the young Fra Junipero Serra. Our goal was to acquaint ourselves with sites associated with this missionary. We passed mission posters that illustrated each of the mission churches on the mission trail in California. This famous missionary, Miguel Jose Serra, better known as Fra Junipero Serra, built the missions that eventually grew to 21 of the California cities we now know -- from San Juan Capistrano to San Francisco. We toured the museum dedicated to him and then proceeded to his birthplace (1713) home nearby at house 6. We walked around the “backyard” and then upstairs to his childhood room.
FRIDAY, January 19
Another day for relaxation. We did have big plans for the evening because this was the festival day for San Sebastian. We took a cab in the rain to the one of the centers for festivities, the Plaza Juan Carlos I. We arrived quite early, but the lights strung across the streets had been lit. The fountain in the square was running and Gary posed by it for the camera. Having time to kill, we made our temporary headquarters at a McDonalds that still afforded us a view of the progress. This McDonalds served beer, or rather Gary served the beer to our table. At the beginning the crowd was quite small, but was growing bit by bit. Then a number of bonfires were set up for the occasion.
Around 9 p.m. police cordoned off the area from traffic. Then at 10 p.m. the band began performing. This popular band, known as Tito’s Gala de Tarde, was fortified with sophisticated sound and lighting equipment.
Many of the locals drawn to the event brought along bags of groceries and used the bonfires to grill meat and toast buns. By the time the music started the crowd was quite large. Around the time we left the younger people were becoming more animated and into the music.
SATURDAY, January 20
I started the day by capturing the beautiful sunrise from my patio balcony. After breakfast, Jorge outlined our day’s journey on my map. Our optional tour was to take us to Palma where we were to board a historic train for the 19 mile trek through almond, lemon and orange groves to Soller. This railroad route dates back to 1912 and our train had been built in 1912. The ride was nice. Birnbaum calls it “one of the most spectacular and picturesque train rides in Europe.” We traveled through many tunnels, some of them quite long. One of GCT people held up her hands in the tunnels to protect us. Before we arrived at the depot, our train stopped at a scenic overlook so we could take pictures of the village below.
On the map to the right, Soller is located in the middle of the upper coast line. There is a green line from Palma to Soller.
Soller was a charming city and we were given free time to stroll. A watercolor of Valldemosa in one shop caught my eye so I purchased it. I found the St. Bartholomew church (right) very interesting. I had never seen architecture quite like this, especially the roof line at the front of the church. The market place was bustling with primarily local people shopping. We ate lunch at Puerto Soller in a quaint restaurant overlooking the harbor. Our lunch started with wine, soup, salad, fries and bass; and ended with a tasty dessert. Free time allowed us walk around the docksand visit shops.
Last, but not least, was a walking tour of the charming village of Fornalutx. Where the bus dropped us off was really a Kodak Picture Spot. The streets were narrow and everything was made of stone. Quite impressive.
The city deserved its 1999 designation as the most beautiful village in Europe.
The ocean drive along the eastern coast was spectacular. We stopped at an overlook for picture taking. This region was often visited by dignitaries like Lady Diana. She was here before leaving for Paris and her fateful accident.
I was tired when I return to the hotel, but Mike and Craig talked me into going to the Palladium Casino for the big time entertainment called Millennium. The two generous lawyers, Craig and Mike, footed the entire bill, which was a considerable amount. We had our wine and meals at the best table in the house with an excellent view of the stage. We had never seen such a spectacular show like this before — flamenco dancers, various costumed performers who sang, and some who performed acrobatic exercises. It was four full hours of quality entertainment. Mike, Craig and I posed for the roaming photographer. The photo serves as a good reminder of a really super evening.
After the show we ambled over to the gambling parlor. Mike treated us to lessons on how to play blackjack. He was so good that the Japanese fellow next to him stopped playing his own cards and placed his bets on Mike’s cards. They both took the dealer for a ride. Craig was a vigorous cheerleader which might have also contributed to Mike’s winning.
SUNDAY, January, 21
Our holiday was coming to an end. Today we tied up loose ends and started packing up our bags. Tonight was the time for our Farewell Dinner at Lady Diana, or Lady Di, a nice fashionable restaurant. Most of us walked to Palma Nova. Others took a cab. Attendance was good from our group. We started off with onion soup or mussels, salmon or veal, and ended up with dessert. Jorge joined us (Mike, Gary, Rex, Sam and myself) at our table. Jorge proposed a toast with champagne to our GCT tribe.
After dinner Mike and Gary distributed gifts they had purchased in Mallorca to all the people in our tour group. I taped some of the action: holding up of tee shirts, setting up table plaques... Live music provided a nice atmosphere for this closing occasion.
MONDAY, January 22
Helpful Jorge accompanied us on the bus to the Palma airport. Sam stayed behind to take in another four weeks at Sol Guadalupe, for the GCT remarkably low price of $295 per week including all meals. We were met by a Grand Circle guide in Madrid who ushered us to our gateway for New York. Rex left the group for his flight to Paris and future adventures. At JFK we were met by another Grand Circle guide who assisted those who were transferring luggage onward. Mike and Gary transferred to Detroit while I headed for Minneapolis via LaGuardia.
Great trip!
Fred Wulff
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