June 6th, Friday
After our breakfast buffet, Dar and I strolled around the hotel area and the nearby Plaka district. Our walk took back to the Olympian Zeus and the Arch of Hadrian. When we returned to the hotel, we booked an all day for tomorrow of the Peloponnese (map) that included Epidaurus, Naplion and Mycennae.
June 7th, Saturday
We really looked forward to our tour into the Peloponnese. Our guide for this trip had received her doctorate from the University of Minnesota in the 1970s (ironically, that was when I had taken a few history courses there). Our bus took us along the coast of Piraeus, the natural harbor of Athens. It has been the city port since the 5th century BC when Themistocles began fortify Piraeus (then an island) for the growing Athenian fleet. Today it teems with commercial activity and pleasure crafts. A portion of it serves as the base of the Onassis’ shipyards.
We continued on to the canal of the Corinth Isthmus. We filed off the bus for a walk around the area and to look down at the great divide.
Early attempts to connect the Gulf of Corinth and the Sarnic Gulf started with Nero (AD 67), but it was not until 1882-93 that the modern canal was cut to sea level through 3,285 feet of rock.
Continuing on in the bus for a few miles we came to the nice view of the Saronic Gulf between Corinth and Epidaurus.
Next we arrived at the Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus which is world renowned for its ancient theatre. Extolled for its acoustics, it is also praised for being the best preserved theatre anywhere. Built in the 4th century BC it seats 14,000. Fortunately, a choir group was there when we visited and we were treated to a chance to experience the acoustics as well as fine music.
As we approached Nauplion, I started video recording of the Palamidi Fortress of the Argolic Gulf from the bus, not knowing we would soon make a stop here. The hill top fortification was built by the Venetians. It passed from the Venetians to the Turks and back again. In 1821-1834 it served as headquarters for independent Greece.
From the harbor area we could look up to see the remains of the fortification.
Turning around to face the gulf we saw the island fortification of Bourai that had earlier protected the water front.
After leaving the city and heading toward Mycennae, I video taped through the bus window the Mycenaean ruins of Tiryns (or Tirintha), alleged birthplace of Hercules. Tiryns is first referenced by Homer, who is praising the amazing walls.
After a lunch at a Greek restaurant, we arrived at Mycennae. The ancient city of Mycennae was once thought to exist only in ancient Greek legend and the epic poetry of Homer.
It wasn't until 1870 that an amateur archaeologist named Heinrich Schliemann found the fabled city. Many people doubted that he would find such a city, but using only landmarks from the text of Homers Iliad, Schliemann uncovered the remains of a once thriving civilization.(1900 BCE tocirca 1125 BCE).
Before going to the Citadel, we started out by visiting the so-called Tomb of Agamemnon located on the hill of Panagitsa below the Citadel (lower left on map above). This is the largest of the tholos (beehive) tombs of the Treasury of Atreus. We stopped at the passageway built of huge squared stones that led into the tholos. Over the entrance was a lintel stone that weighs 120 tons.
The domed chamber inside was quite large and resembled a beehive. Many birds now regarded the tomb as their private sanctuary.
We were then driven over to the parking lot of the Citadel. (on the illustration above we are starting on the upper left). We entered the Citadel from the northwest through the famous Lion Gate (right). The triangle above the lintel stone carries two lions whose heads are missing. The massive walls on either side were called Cyclopean Walls because of their size.
Going through the Arch we walked past the Armory and Granary towards the Grave Circle.
This large Burial Circle was once located outside the city walls, but when the fortifications were expanded the burial site was incorporated into the city itself. Its 6 shaft graves held 19 bodies: 9 men, 8 women and 2 children.
Beyond the Grave Circle were the remains of the House of the Warrior Vase
and the Great Ramp.
On our way back to Athens, we passed the Venetian Walls of the Acropolis of Corinth. The imposing mass of Acro-corinth rises out of the ground at the edge of the ancient city. At the top of the pinnacle, at an altitude of 575 meters, stood the acropolis of Corinth during ancient and medieval times. This is the largest and oldest fortress in the Peloponnese. The Apostle Paul resided in Corinth 18 months (AD 51-52) working as a tentmaker.
June 8, Sunday
After breakfast at the Hotel Christina, Dar and I walked across the street to observe the Greek Orthodox Church in Plaka where a church service was being held. Over the entrance was a beautiful mosaic. According to statistics 98% of the people in Greece consider themselves Greek Orthodox.
Just outside our hotel a crowd was gathering and police were everywhere. Right in front of our hotel race cars were about to shoot by at high speeds as they moved from one racing trek to another. They careened our corner and sped on. We couldn’t believe that an auto race would move right through a major city. The newspaper The Athens News referred to it as the 44th edition of the Acropolis Rally.
We ate our meals in local restaurants in the area, but neither Dar or I had much of an appetite. The long bus ride through Romania and Bulgaria in a bus with no air circulation had brought about respiratory problems
June 9th, Monday
We departed from our hotel at the unearthly hour of 3:30 am via taxi to the Athens International Airport. The driver drove like crazy -- just like the one when we arrived. Anyway we boarded our KLM flight and were on our way home. We appreciated our college administration for letting us off early from our teaching duties by rescheduling our exams. The trip had been a real learning experience.
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