Wednesday, October 21st
The full day tour of the day started off with Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, on the eastern side of Table Mountain. The beautiful Kirstenbosch gardens cover an area of 528 hectares with 36 hectares of cultivated garden. The gardens are a celebration of South African flora — showcasing only indigenous South African plants. Fynbos, proteas, cycads and rolling lawns are intermingled with streams and ponds and well-laid out pathways for easy walking. A great variety of birds inhabit the gardens and the sweeping views from the upper slopes are spectacular
Our second stop was at the Rhodes Memorial, which was constructed further around the mountain towards city (off of Rhodes Drive).
Sir Cecil John Rhodes is one of the most dazzling personalities of South African history. He was born in 1853 in England and came to South Africa at the age of 17. When the diamond rush started in the north of the Cape country, he bought some diamond-rich claims and amassed a fortune in a very short amount time. From then on Cecil Rhodes used his financial power mainly for political influence. In 1890, he became Prime Minister of the Cape Colony and his time in office marks the height of British influence in politics in the Cape. The colony was forcefully extended towards the north and the west.
It was Rhodes' aim in life to bring the two Boer Republics, the Orange Free State and the South African Republic in Transvaal (proclaimed between 1854 and 1856) under British control. For this reason he attempted a putsch, which failed and forced him to resign before the end of his term. Sir Cecil Rhodes died in 1902.
The memorial above the University of Cape Town was built with granite extracted from Table Mountain and reflects the obsession of this power-hungry politician. Rhodes was not buried here, but in the Matopos Hills in Zimbabwe (formerly Rhodesia).
Our guide said there are many who are not fond of Rhodes and there is fear for sites commemorating Rhodes after Mendala dies. I noticed that the flood-lights that surrounded the monument had been smashed by pieces of cement blocks.
The third stop of the day was at the Rhodes Cottage in Muizenberg. See upper part of map for location.
Rhodes' Cottage is a small house on the seafront that Cecil John Rhodes bought as a holiday cottage and this was where he died in 1902. The house is preserved as a museum dedicated to Rhodes' life and is open to the public.
In the Museum we found all sorts of stuff associated with Rhodes. They even had his death mask that had been taken within hours of his death,
Thursday, October 22nd
Another wonderful English breakfast and we were off to visit Khayelitsha, a township of over 1 million inhabitants and growing rapidly. The discrimination and black population control by the apartheid regime did not prevent blacks from settling in the outskirts of Cape Town. After the scrapping of pass laws in 1987 many blacks moved into areas around Cape Town in search of work.
By this time many blacks were already illegally settled in townships. As the black population grew, the apartheid regime sought to solve the "problem" by establishing new black neighborhoods. Khayelitsha was established in 1985 and large numbers of people were forcefully relocated there.
Since the ANC came to power in the country in 1994, the ruling party claims that living conditions in the township have improved markedly. There have been many developments such as new brick housing being built, new schools being built, and the creation of a central business district in the Township. However many residents strongly dispute the claim that the quality of life has improved. They claim that crime rates remain very high and that only a small portion of residents see improvements as a result of infrastructure and welfare interventions. The home visited was rather primitive with makeshift stuff.
We visited a classroom of children in the primary grades. The building had recently been built and stood in contrast to the shacks surrounding it. African words were written on the blackboard, but the children learned their lessons in two languages and spoke English very well. When we visited the upper grade classroom the children were told to askus questions. The teacher threw candy to those who took part -- like throwing fish to performing seals. All the students wore uniforms.
We visited St Michael’s and Angels Anglican Mission, where our group enjoyed interacting with the locals and buying their crafts, souvenirs and traditional African fare of handmade curios, pottery, beadwork, baskets and fabric paintings. The market aims to alleviate poverty in the area, and crafts are produced by the local community.
Khayelitsha has one beach called Monwabisi, located on the coast of False Bay, known to be one of the most dangerous beaches in the area. It was recorded that one day 5 people drowned at the beach. This was due to a wall that was built to create a calm cove. Instead it had made many dangerous currents. We noticed that all along the highway there were mounds of sand along the sea side.
Friday, October 23rd
This was a free day for on our own activities, I spent most of the day walking around the beach at Fish Hoek.
Colorful beach huts at Fish Hoek
Saturday, October 24th
Another day on our own so I arranged for the hotel shuttle service to take me to downtown Cape Town for an independent self-guided walk on Adderley Street (diagonal street in center of map below). The van driver warned me that I should not go by myself because that would be an invitation to be mugged. I ignored his advice because there were sights I wanted to see that our other members were not interested in visiting. His advice was warranted, because almost immediately after he dropped me off at the Railway Station (big red area on map below) a gang of four men tried to get my billfold.
I saw them coming towards me when one of them dropped a package in front of me as a distraction action. I immediately moved my hand to cover my billfold when I felt a hand on my back pocket. I grabbed his hand firmly and started swinging with my other arm to ward him off. They quickly melted into the crowd. Oddly enough, bystanders just watched as if nothing happened. I then just continued on Adderley Street.
Because it was Saturday, there were a number of street musicians on the sidewalks playing for donations. Vendors were selling fresh fruit. With a high unemployment numbers for blacks, this offered a source of income.
One of my main objects was to visit St. George Episcopal Cathedral where Anglican Archbishop Tutu had served. On the map above it is marked with a cross.
The cathedral was designed by Herbert Baker in 1897. Much history has taken place here. A plaque inside the church commemorated a visit by Queen Elizabeth II on the first Human Rights Day in 1995
under the new Mendala government, Inscribed on the plaque was a quote from Bishop Tutu: “We should all have the freedom to be fully human.”
A superb place for a coffee and cake break or a light lunch is The Crypt, Cape Town's historic meeting place beneath St George's Cathedral. It is one of the oldest monuments in Cape Town. Originally, the Crypt was used for choir practice and clergy vestry, but during the Apartheid years it became a famous meeting place where racial and social differences were ignored. People met to play music, dance, and sing together under St George's protection. Today, it is now a restaurant and a lively Jazz venue in the evening. While I was having my coffee and a snack, people came over and visited. Very friendly place!
After my coffee break, I went around to the entrance of the church to watch the choir practice for a service on Sunday afternoon
From here I went down the street to visit the Houses of Parliament (See previous map) on Adderley Street. The impressive Parliament Buildings, dating back to 1884, became the seat for the National Parliament in 1910, and have remained that way ever since. During the first half of the year, when Parliament is in session, gallery tickets are available, but overseas tourists need to book in advance.
A statue of Queen Victoria is prominently situated by the main entrance.
The Botanical Gardens (better known as Company’s Gardens) were adjacent to Parliament and was a very inviting setting for a tranquil walk. One of the reasons I like to be on my own is that I can be flexible with my schedule. There were quite a few Saturday strollers enjoying the scenery.
I retraced my steps on Adderley Street and encountered more street musicians. This time there was a little dancing to the music.
I walked past the Railway Station and headed for the statues of Van Riebeeck and his wife. See map. Van Riebeeck landed three ships at the future Cape Town on 6 April 1652 and fortified the site as a way-station for the VOC trade route between the Netherlands and the East Indies. The Afrikaners call him the Father of their nation.
I waited at the corner here for the Water Front bus. Earlier my van driver said I should under no condition walk to the Victoria and Albert Wharf because that would be dangerous.
Victoria and Albert Wharf is considered a shopper’s paradise, but I just wanted to walk around and take in the atmosphere.
Since it was now lunch time I headed for the famous Fisherman’s Choice restaurant. For less than $4 US, I had fish, chips, onion rings, orange juice and coffee. While eating (with pigeons) I watched ships in the harbor.
We had a treat in store for us back at the Avenue Hotel. The dinner theme was Medieval Night. The King and his wench sat at our table. Our feast included both ribs and steak.
Sunday, October 25th
Sunday was a day of rest. We could lounge around in the courtyard. Sip coffee and visit in the early hours of the morning.
I chose to take the Jager Walk. This walkway starts at the Fish Hoek beach and then rises up to a beautiful view of the bay.
The walk continues along the waterfront where one can watch water splashing against the rocks. I saw quite a few surfers gliding along with sails.
Good exercise and great for nature lovers
Monday, October 26
Right after breakfast we boarded our bus for a full day tour to Hermanus on the far side of False Bay See map. We took the inland route after leaving Fish Hoek because sand had covered the coastal highway. You may recall the sand dunes along the highway and beach when I visited the Township.
Just before reaching Gordon’s Bay, this is the view of the Hottentots-Holland Mountains hovering over False Bay.
Further along (see map) we came to the beautiful Gordon’s Bay and the “Twelve Apostles.”
Of course, we saw the ubiquitous baboons from the bus.
Next scenic sight was Betty’s Bay, Also see map.
Here at Betty’s Bay we walked around the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens.
Our walk culminated at these wonderful falls.
The easternmost part of our tour was Hermanus, “the Whale Capital of South Africa." See map. Fortunately, we arrived in the prime whale watching season, for Southern Right Whales in particular, but also Humpbacks and Brydes whales in much smaller numbers.
Hundreds of whale watching folks lined the shore of Hermanus as a southern right whale breaches out in the bay, 50 tons or more of mammal propelling itself from the sea before it crashes back in preparation for the next leap.
Hermanus has a mellow Mediterranean climate. It is to this bay that the whales come to give birth, to mate and to frolic.
On our return trip back, we went through Sir Lowry’s Pass. Sir Lowry's Pass is on the N2 national road that crosses the Hottentots-Holland mountain range between Somerset West and Grabow. The Dutch and British settlers at the Cape built a rough pass called the Hottentots Holland Kloof Pass.
The first recorded crossing was in 1664, and by 1821 the pass was seeing 4500 ox-wagons per year crossing into the interior, but the route was so severe that more than 20% of them were damaged.
Back at the hotel we were treated to a Saga Gala Party with champagne, steaks and rum dessert.
Tuesday, October 27th
A full tour took us into the Good Hope Reserve and Cape Point.
View of the Point from the Nature Reserve
We saw ostriches along the way
Entering Cape Point
The Point Lighthouse
Tramway
The Point
Ostrich Farm
Incubator
Ostrich egg shells
From the Ostrich Farm we took the Western Cape Rd to Noordhoek Farm Village (lower left on the map).
Noordhoek Farm Village
Shopping at Noordhoek Farm Village is a relaxing experience, where visitors can wander leisurely around the specialist stores with a wide variety of goods. The unusual arts and crafts found here are a reflection of the beautiful surroundings from which the local artists draw their inspiration.
From here we headed northward up to Groot Constantia (#7 on upper part of previous map)
1. Wine Tasting Sales and Souvenirs
2. Orientation Centre (Iziko Museum)
3. Jonkershuis Restaurant
4. Manor House (Iziko Museum)
5. Cloete Cellar (Iziko Museum)
6. Cellar Tour and wine tasting and sales
7. Simon’s Restaurant
Tree-lined road of Constantia
Groot Constantia Manor House, a historic Cape Dutch building, which also serves as a museum. This was the home of Simon de Stahl
Cloete Cellar building, the original wine cellar at the estate. The pediment gable is by the sculptor Anton Anreith.
Outbuildings at Groot Constantia, now housing the Jonkershuis Restaurant
Vineyards
Wine cellar
We then took the Mountain Road that followed the old silver mining trail from Fish Hoek to Cape Town.
Wednesday, October 28th
Another typical English breakfast in the Avenue Hotel dinning room. My goal for the day was to take in a whale watch boating expedition from Simon’s Town. The fact that it was very windy made me excited that I could experience a rough voyage to the Cape. But, because of the strong winds no boats would go out to the Cape. Actually, any sailings were doubtful. I was the only one from our group who wanted to chance it. The owner of the hotel drove me to Simon’s Town.
After a waiting period, the boating company relented and let a ship go out to sea. This was a fantastic adventure. We saw numerous whales and up very close. They were huge and we almost touched them.
Back at the hotel that evening we had a wonderful Greek Night with good Greek food. In the evening we headed off to the airport to catch our flight to Miami on South African Airlines. From there we would all go our own ways.
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