I chose Grand Circle Travel for this tour because of the low price ($1595), which included the tour guide, hotels, airfare and free single supplement. This price was then further lowered $24 because of previous GCT travel and then with a $74 deduction because I paid in advance.
The narrative follows my camcorder footage and that dictated the sequence. Not everything that was video-taped is pictured below. Additional information was gleaned from computer sources like Google.
My first flight was to Laguardia, New York on NWA. From there I took a shuttle to JFK. The international flight to Istanbul and then on to Izmir was served by Turkish Airlines. Izmir is better known to us by the Biblical name of Smyrna.
Rana Erol, our capable GCT guide, met us at the Izmir airport and escorted us to our hotel. After a briefing she led us on an included city tour. Our first stop at the Kultur Park was easily reached by a convenient express way. The Kultur Park is located in the light green area of the map to the right.
When we arrived at the Archeological Museum located there, Rana started her presentation by expounding on the fact that many monuments and artifacts have been taken out of the country. She especially drew our attention to the holdings in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. At the entrance of the Museum there was a poster warning against taking any antiquities out of Turkey.
We proceeded to the Cultural Museum on the same premises and viewed displays of room furnishings, bedding, wedding pillows, head dresses, and other items from early Turkish life.
One display of particular interest was a showcase of weaponry used by the Ottoman Turks.
As we were leaving the museum area, we were confronted with loud Islamic prayers transmitted by amplifiers located on nearby minarets. Devout Muslims pray five times a day and these calls were reminders to the faithful.
We headed for the restored Greek agora. En route we passed busy market places with displays of fresh fruit and vegetables. We saw our first cats, a familiar sight all over Turkey. Our initial view of the Agora was fantastic, with its long row of arched shops. The original agora was built in the 4th century BC by Alexander the Great. It was rebuilt by Marcus Aurelius AD 178 after an earthquake. Most of what we saw was from the 2nd century AD.
We walked into an underground passageway that had shops along both sides, Rana listed the many businesses that were installed here. She also explained the reasons for the channel of water that passed through the center of the walkway. One, a cooling system. Two, the sound of the water was physiologically pleasing.
We moved to the outside, but I first took a parting shot of the water splashing into the channel of the lower level.
Then I tuned to the large archways that had been reconstructed.
Then I looked up to see the mountain with the Alexander’s Kadifekale (Velvet Fortress) perched in a defensive position over the city. On the previous map it is on the very bottom in dark green. Rana said the view from up there is outstanding, but it would be too difficult to take our bus up there.
From the Agora we headed to the waterfront to board a modern ferry, the Beyaz Ada, that would takes us across the Bay of Izmir. We drank hot tea with Rana on the upper deck.
After our busy day on tour we retired to our comfortable hotel, the Kaya Prestige. The setting was quite different from the time of St. John. Near the close of the 1st century AD, when Smyrna appeared as one of the seven churches of Asia addressed in the Book of Revelation, Smyrna had a Christian congregation undergoing persecution from the city's Jews (Revelation 2:9). In contrast to several of the other churches, Apostle John had nothing negative to say about this church. He did, however, predict that the persecution will continue and urged them, "Be faithful to the point of death, and I will give you the crown of life" (Revelation 2:10). The persecution of Christians continued into the 2nd century, as documented by the martyrdom of Polycarp, bishop of Smyrna, in 155 AD.
After breakfast we departed from our nice hotel the Kaya Prestige and headed toward Ephesus (and Selcuk) that St. Paul knew so well. He preached here on his second missionary journey and later spent three years here (AD 55-58). As we passed buildings only partially constructed, Rana commented that the raging inflation that followed Desert Storm prevented their completion. Sixty miles south of Izmir we came to Selcuk and the ancient city of Ephesus.
Rana served as our guide as she led us through the ruins of the classical city. We started out at the upper or political agora (right side of map) where civic matters were handled. Rana pointed out there were really levels of the city by eras as determined by excavations. She also reminded us that St. Paul preached here in the heat of the day. The little box on the map above marks the location of the Temple of Isis.
Across from the agora was the Basilica, an imperial hall with three columns.
Before us now was the Bouleuterion, House of Council, 140 AD to the 5th century. A carved stone figure of a bull adorned the building.
At the Odeion (concert hall) was a meeting place used by the city leaders. In this theatre-type construction we had a group picture taken by a professional photographer.
Next was the Precinct for Artemis and Emperor, BC 1st century.
At this point Rana asked for my book on Ephesus to show the group illustrations of the two statues of Artemis that had been found here and later placed in a nearby museum. The rows of protuberances are symbols of fertility. According to the latest hypothesis. these could be the testicles of sacrificed bulls.
Before waking down the Sacred Ramp, a ramp constructed for pedestrian traffic, we took a look at the Tomb and Fountain of Pollio (see previous map). This fountain was a nymphaeum was built by a grateful city in honor of Pollio.
To the right was the location of the Square of Domitian, and above it Hellenistic Walls.
Next we observed the Tomb or Monument of Gaius Memmius, 100 BC, The blocks that contain the figures of his father, Gaius and grandfather, Sulla, are still well preserved.
We walked down the Street of Curetes (a college of priests) with the Library of Celsius situated at the end.
Before descending too far on this street we stopped at Trajan’s Fountain and the Temple of Hadrian to our right. It consisted of a two story facade, decorated with columns and statues and a basin, A statue of Trajan once stood in the central niche. His foot and a round object still remains of the statue.
Rana perched herself on a wall and elaborated on the Hellenistic Terrace Houses across the street. She explained how these were the houses of the rich who could afford to live in the middle of the city. These homes also had hot and cold running water.
Next she turned attention to where we were standing, the bath complex called Baths of Scholastica. The clay pipes that conducted hot air through the baths are still visible on the floor of the tipidarium. The dressing room, cold room (frigidarium), warm room and hot room (caldarium) were grouped in a circular pattern.
Next we viewed the public toilets or latrina. Men could hold long conversations in this community toilet. A water channel ran in front of the openings that line the wall. Rana then sat on one of the original marble seats. She noted that some men would employ others to warm the seats for them ahead of time.
A light rain began to fall, but that did not deter us from our mission. One of the most beautiful buildings in Ephesus was the Library of Celsius which dates to the 2nd century (completed in 135 AD). It was probably intended to be a monumental tomb for Celsius, but its location in the city was allowed only if it was placed in the context of a public building.
Statues symbolizing the characteristics of Celsius stand in the niches between the columns of the lower story. These are wisdom, knowledge, thought and virtue. The statues are copies of the originals, which are now in the Ephesus Museum in Vienna.
To the right of the Library is the Market Gate or Gate of Macaeus and Mirthridates.
From the Library we headed along the Market Street (once lined with arcades and decorated with statues).
The Lower Agora or Market Square to our left was once the center of commerce in the city.
The Marble Road led us to the Theatre, the most impressive structure in the city. It was converted into a Roman style theatre during the Roman period in the reign of Claudius, 41-54 AD. The theatre was used not only for concerts and plays, but also for religious, political and philosophical discussions and for gladiator and animal fights.
This site brought to mind of a certain man named Demetrius, a silversmith,who made silver shrines of Artemis who said: “Men, YOU well know that from this business we have our prosperity. Also, YOU behold and hear how not only in Ephesus but in nearly all the [district of] Asia this Paul has persuaded a considerable crowd and turned them to another opinion, saying that the ones that are made by hands are not gods. Moreover, the danger exists not only that this occupation of ours will come into disrepute but also that the temple of the great goddess Artemis will be esteemed as nothing and even her magnificence which the whole [district of] Asia and the inhabited earth worships is about to be brought down to nothing.” Hearing this and becoming full of anger, the men began crying out, saying: “Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!”
Acts 19:19 (New International Version) A number who had practiced sorcery brought their scrolls together and burned them publicly. When they calculated the value of the scrolls, the total came to fifty-thousand drachmas.
In Ephesus Paul stood on trial for bringing Christianity to the area. It was from here that Paul left for Macedonia.
We left the stadium and walked on Harbor Street that runs from the theatre to the harbor (which had since become silted up).
Back on the bus with our faithful guide, we drove into Selcuk past the Castle on Citadel Hill and the Temple of Artemis. The scanty remains include one lonely pillar. At one time this had been one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
After lunch in Selcuk we visited the tremendous Ephesus (Efes) Museum.
We left Ephesus after our museum visit and headed for Marmaris (in red on the map).
We checked in at the Munamar Hotel, situated on Icmeler Beach and overlooking the Aegean Sea. This was to be our home for the next five nights
January 11, Marmaris and Boat Ride
Upon rising I took a video shot of the water front from my room, After our included breakfast, our group set off on an orientation walking tour of the area around the hotel. The afternoon was free for “on your own” or we could opt for a tour which included a
boat ride.
The boar trip was excellent and very scenic as we cruised around rocky island and by wooded coastlines.
The boat docked in Marmaris by an old castle that dated back to the Ottoman period.
We were free to roam around Kordon Caddes/Ataturk Caddes along the shoreline where we saw many boats along the dock with vendors selling fish. Across the bay in the distance we could see our hotel.
Later that evening at the Munamar Hotel in Icmeir we had a delicious meal of Turkish food (with many vegetables) and a variety of rich deserts. Our evening meals were always accompanied by beautiful live music from a violin and an accordion.
January 12, Marmaris/Bodrum
Today our full day tour took us north of Marmaris and then eastward to the coastal city of Bodrum. See previous green map. The city lies on the important site of the ancient city of Halicarnassus. Bodrum has the distinction of being the birthplace of Herodotus, the 5th century BC Father of History.
The city was strikingly beautiful with the clean look of white buildings. Rana told us that the city closely regulates the construction of buildings so that they all conform to the same architecturally pleasing design. And of course there were minarets so evident in this country with a 99% Muslim population.
Since the city had very narrow roads the traffic was restricted. Our driver had to park the tour bus and we were reloaded into vans for our city tour. The arrow on this map shows where we entered the city.
Our first stop was the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus. The grounds were well kept though it looked like ruins were strewn about.
Rana made use of a large chart that showed us the tomb chamber located within the massive mausoleum. The bulk of this building was made of green stones, stones which were later carried off to build the Castle of St. Peter. Kana followed up her presentation by alluding to a model of the structure. No wonder that this monument was designated a Wonder of the Ancient World.
We then stepped outside to see the remains of the mausoleum up close. Remains of the tall marble pillars were lying broken around the grounds. Loud speakers on a nearby minaret exhorted Muslims to prayer.
We ate lunch at a nice restaurant along the waterfront. Across the ship-lined harbor we could see the Bodrum Kalesi, the Castle of St. Peter, built by the Hospitallers of St. John between 1402 and 1437. The Order classified its members as either Knights, Serving Brothers or Chaplains. The Knights were all of noble birth and served the Order without pay. At their deaths they routinely left all their possessions to the Order. Some spent time in Europe at their estates (many of them were wealthy) or on duty at various hospitals along the pilgrim routes.
Our caravan of city vans took us around the harbor to visit the castle up close. To the right is one of the towers. The Knights used much of the Mausoleum for material to build the castle.
The French had developed the art of cannon foundry by this time, so gun embrasures were built along the top of the Castle's walls, especially those facing landward. The Crusaders had a powerful fleet of warships, so they had little fear of attack from the sea (the walls facing the mainland were also built much thicker than those facing the sea).
The Castle had stood empty for almost 40 years, until the Turkish government decided to use it as a storeroom for underwater findings from several recent shipwreck excavations. The government soon decided these findings were worthy of a separate museum, and what better place for it than the Castle itself? Rana explained everything about the display of vases recovered from the sea.
There is a mosque and minaret in the castle.
By 1521, Turkish leader Suleyman the Magnificent was ready to challenge the Order. The Knights withstood the siege for six months, but were forced to surrender in January 1523. Sultan Suleyman spared the Knights' lives and they sailed to the island of Crete. In 1530 Charles V, Emperor of Austria, Spain and Sicily, gave the Mediterranean island of Malta to the Knights.
We transferred back to our bus and Hakim, our skillful driver took us back to the hotel. When we returned there was a beautiful sunset with reflections on the water.
January 13, Marmaris & Turkish House
This morning was pretty much free time so I walked to a beauty shop for a Ventura haircut. Actually, I was more interested in the head wash, neck massage, shoulder chops and nice smelling lotion, than the sound effects of the clippers. I loved being pampered.
The included Discovery Series took us to a visit of a “Turkish House” where we learned about Turkish life. The Turkish host spoke a very good English and related interesting information about musical instruments and methods used in acquiring honey. He sang Turkish songs and provided music for dancing. Rana persuaded a reluctant Hakim to participate. The more extroverted members of our group took to the floor and were led in dance by lively Rana, who seemed to have all the moves. Hakim’s role was pretty much limited to that of an assistant drummer.
January 14, Marmaris, Dayan and Caunos
Today was taken up mostly with an included tour that took us twenty miles east of Marmaris to the site of ancient Dayan and and Kaunos or Caunos. Life in Dalyan revolves around the Dalyan Çayı River which flows past the town. The boats that ply up and down the river, navigating the maze of reeds, are the preferred means of transport to all the local sites.
Our tour group boarded an open ferry boat for a cruise down the Dalyan River toward Kaunos.
In front of us were the monumental Lycian Rock Tombs from the 4th century BC. The imposing Lycian rock tombs with their facades curved into the form of temples were the last resting place of the kings of Caunos. The Lycians developed this form of art to perfection, no doubt facilitated by the soft limestone of the region. The most recent count has revealed one thousand and eighty-five examples still intact, rock-cut tombs being the most common form.
Our boat turned around in the river and headed towards the lake that was the river’s source. Finally we reached Lake Koycegiz with its Iztuzu Beach, one of the few remaining breeding grounds of the caretta-caretta sea turtles. This was not the season for viewing turtles, but our boat captain did slow down in a region where turtles often popped their noses above water. We were not disappointed for waiting.
We ate lunch in a quaint restaurant in Dalyan. The “salad” plate had a variety of Turkish delights. The main course of fish was very tasty. Cats and dogs, mostly cats, eagerly roamed around the tables for table scraps. On our way home I took video shots of dwellings and the many lemon trees. Evening meal at the Munamar Hotel was of the usual excellent quality -- and accompanied by live music.
January 15, Denizli Carpet Factory and Kemer
After breakfast we drove northward on a scenic roue through Mugla, Kale. Tavas and up to Honaz near Denizli. On the map Mugla and Denizli have large red dots. Our goal was a carpet factory or “carpet farm.” This region has been famous for carpets since the time of Marco Polo. The Turkish government favors the industry here with subsidies as to foster trade and provide employment for the region’s population.
From the factory site one can admire the view of snow capped mountains.
Our factory began with demonstrations of the old traditional ways of carpet construction -- given by elderly ladies. Another example of the old ways was that of soaking silkworm cocoons in hot water and then unraveling the silk threads. The more expensive carpets are made from silk rather than cotton or wool.
Today the company hires many seventeen-year-old young ladies who become very skillful and speedy at tying knots for carpets. One young lady displayed such a skill for us. The more knots a carpet has per centimeter, the greater the value of the carpet.
Our carpet guide now, naturally, took us to the display room. He started out by telling us how they took the pattern from the oldest known carpet and reproduced it for production. His assistant brought out an array of carpets in various sizes and of varied quality.
The trip to Kemer was mountainous and mostly downhill. On the previous map Kemer is located just before Antalya. We passed through villages which appeared quite different from the urban areas of Izmir and Marmaris. At a roadside stop we had an opportunity to see a lady roll out and fry a thin dough which she sold to tourists. Another lady was squeezing out fresh pomegranates juice. Candy was also made here and sold as Turkish Delight (photo) . Rana purchased some and distributed treats to us back on the bus. Tasted delicious.
In the evening we arrived at the Turkiz Hotel (photo), our accommodations for the next seven days. This hotel in Kemer is rated five stars by the government tourist agency and it deserved all five stars. It was located right next to the marina and just 50 yards from the beach. It featured a heated pool, Turkish bath, sauna and jacuzzi. I took a video shot of the lower level where my room was located and then out to the vast interior space extending (photo) up to the fourth floor.
I don’t recall ever seeing such a large hotel atrium. In the center was a large beautiful fountain.
January 16, Kemer & Antalya
The major city of this area was Antalya (photo). It is uncertain when the site of the current city was first inhabited. Attalos II, king of Pergamon, was believed to have founded the city around 150 BC, naming it Attalia and selecting it as a naval base for his powerful fleet. Christianity started to spread in the region after the 2nd century. Antalya was visited by Paul of Tarsus, as recorded in the Acts of the Apostles: "From Perga, Paul and Barnabas went down to Attalia and sailed from there to Antioch after preaching in Pisidia and Pamphylia" (Acts 14:25-26).
The city, along with the surrounding region, was conquered by the Seljuk Turks in the early 13th century. Antalya was the capital of the Turkish beylik of Teke (1321–1423) until its conquest by the Ottomans.
Our major activity for the morning was to drive from Kemer to Antalya to tour the famous Archeological Museum of Antalya. On the map (pictured) it is located off to the left. Rana conducted the tour herself. She was very knowledgeable and had been a major contributor to a popular Turkish guidebook. The major holdings (photo) of the Museum came from Perge, Aspendoes, Phaselis and Myra.
Although it was raining, we drove into the city center for a walking tour led by Rana. Those of us who braved the weather saw the Monument to Ataturk , Old Town Gate and Walls and the Fluted Minaret of 13th century (photo).
When our brief walking tour ended, our bus took us back to our hotel in Kemer. On the coastal highway we were afforded nice views of the USS Enterprise (photo) anchored in the harbor. The crew was taking a break from the conflict in the Middle East. On our walking tour of Antalya we met many of the sailors on shore leave. I asked one of them about the score of the Viking-Giant playoff game. The Vikings were grossly outplayed and outscored. Lunch was served on the Turkiz Terrance and included traditional shis-kebap (photo).
January 17, Perge & Aspendos
In the early morning I walked out to the beach front of our hotel and videoed the Taurus Mountains that lined the coast to Antalya. Then I turned the camcorder to the right to capture the waves lapping the shoreline of the Mediterranean Sea.
Today we visited Perge and Aspendos, sites that are just outside Antalya (See map). Our bus journey from Kemer to Antalya skirted the Taurus Mountains and gave us another opportunity to enjoy the scenery -- and another glimpse of the carrier Enterprise.
Then we crossed the fertile coastal plain from Antalya to Perga (or Perge). Before coming to the ruins proper, we first encountered the great theatre of Perge, 2nd century AD and the Aqueduct (photo). Access to the city itself was through a Roman gate, 4th century AD. Beyond that was the Hellenistic tower gateway.
Once inside the city, and amidst the ruins, we looked back at the Hellenistic tower gateway (photo). Rana began her exposition by pointing out the area associated with St. Paul’s visit. St. Paul preached the Word here when he and Barnabas fled from Antioch in Pisidia (Acts 14:25).
Rana then showed us the ruins of the Nymphaeum. We spent considerable time at the Roman baths. Tiled floors were still evident.
The typical succession of three rooms in the bath complex is notable: frigidarium, tipidarium and caldarium. We viewed the rooms in that order. The tipidarium room had bricks stacked in vertical piles around which water flowed, quite different from the arch-like formation of bricks (photo) of the caldarium.
The main thoroughfare (photo) of the city consisted of a pedestrian walk and a chariot road.
This led to the agora, a huge marketplace to our right. Here we saw the columns of the agora (photo).
Back on the bus, we were on our way to Aspendos. In 190 BC Aspendos was Pergamonian then it fell into the hands of the Romans like its neighboring cities, and had its heyday at this time. Most of the huge buildings of the city date back from that period. It ranked amongst the most important ports and cities in the Byzantine centralization system till the decline of the city.
The architect Zenon built the well preserved theatre of the ancient world (photo) in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius,For some reason the theatre of Aspendos was guarded by Turkish soldiers armed with automatic weapons (inset photo). Rana again did an excellent job of providing the necessary information.
The theatre (photo), built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius in the 2nd century AD, was magnificent. The seating capacity was estimated at 20,000. The stage building was three stories high. The lower levels of the facade were decorated with a double colonnade,ten pairs of columns on each level, Ionic capitals below and Corinthian above. Paneled areas allowed for statues.
Remains of the Roman aqueduct (photo) could be seen from the road on the left hand side as our driver drove us away from the Aspendos theatre.
Our return trip took us through Antalya where the streets were busy with shoppers. Out side the city we followed behind a truck with a cargo of goats.
January 18, Turkish Village of Bademagaci
After breakfast we loaded up in the bus for an optional tour to Bademagaci. Rana used the map on the bus to show us the location of the village. We rode into the beautiful forests of the Taurus Mountains (photo) to spend a unique day in an unspoiled village of 4,000 people As our bus pulled up to the town hall, curious young boys cheerfully greeted us. We entered the town hall as the mayor’s guest, and sat down in the coffee house there for complimentary drinks of Turkish tea (photo).
The mayor, a former school teacher, was introduced by Rana. She fielded questions from the group and translated his responses. We found out that his campaigning for office was limited to talking to the men in coffee houses, since the men considered themselves to represent themselves and their wives.
The mayor then took us into his office where he explained the Turkish flag and drew attention to a photo of Ataturk prominently displayed on the wall. When our visit was completed we stepped outside to a throng of waiting vendors who had been waiting patiently for us. Prices were negotiable.
Tour stop number two was the local public school. A bust of Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, stood conspicuously on a pedestal by the school entrance. In the lobby area and in all the classrooms there were pictures of Ataturk. He seems to have provided the cement for the Turkish nation; not only at the formation of the Republic, but as a spirit for the present as well. Ataturk became known as an extremely capable military officer during World War I. Following the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, he led the Turkish national movement in the Turkish War of Independence.
Having established a provisional government in Ankara, he defeated the forces sent by the Allies. His successful military campaigns led to the liberation of the country and to the establishment of modern Turkey. During his presidency, Ataturk embarked upon a program of political, economic, and cultural reforms. An admirer of the Age of Enlightenment, he sought to transform the former Ottoman Empire into a modern and secular nation-state. He banished the wearing Muslim garments in the schools and prohibited religious clothing and dress for elected government officials. School was not in session while we were there because of the feast following Ramadan.
The highlight of our village visit was joining a family for a home-hosted meal. We were divided up into groups of fours and assigned homes. The group I was in visited a home that was rather plain on the outside, but very nice on the inside. We entered the lower level and met a goat who resided there. We took off our shoes and walked upstairs to the living quarters. Our pleasant hostess led us to a large living room with a floor covered by a beautiful Turkish carpet. When it was time to eat the lady of the house had us gather at a nice size table. She took a loaf of homemade bread and broke it with her hands into pieces, placing a piece on our plates. I would have rather she had not done that, knowing the toilet practices in Turkey.
Our meal was served in a series of courses, starting with soup to go with the bread. We progressed to the beans, cabbage rolls and meat wrapped in grape leaves. We closed with the dessert. baklava (photo), a flaky pastry jammed with nuts and soaked in honey. Everything was tasty and the servings generous.
After the meal our hostess served hot coffee and tea. While we sipped she showed us photograph albums and proudly pointed out members of her family.
Eventually one of our ladies had to make use of the toilet (photo). She found the room. but no toilet paper. The family did not use toilet paper but rather substituted the left hand followed by a water rinse. When our fellow traveller asked for toilet paper, she was told it was on the television set. Our hostess had remembered to put some out for guests, but it never quite made it to the bathroom.
We toured the house, starting with the kitchen. The parlor was very formal and not used much except for fancy company The carpet, which was covered, was very pretty and looked expensive.
The father and children came home and joined in our conversation until parting time. As elsewhere in Turkey everyone was very pleasant and friendly.
Once we had all our groups reunited, Hakim drove us into the town center where the locals were buying and selling produce. I thought it interesting to see the men of the village spending their daylight hours sitting around at the coffee houses (photos of olden times ...
... and the present). Rana did not think kindly of this manly tradition. She was quite vocal in expressing her disgust that men lounged around while women were engaged in hard work at home.
Our return trip to Antalya and Kemer was mostly downhill as we left the mountainous terrain.
January 19, Kemer & Antalya
At breakfast we were greeted with chocolate treats as Muslims were celebrating the end of Ramadan and the start of the bayram feast.
Rana offered a tour of a jewelry business in Antatlya for those interested. Fortunately, she offered to drop me off at the city center on the way and then to pick me up after their tour. I’m not much into jewelry and I just love touring on my own -- at my own pace. I started with the Clock Tower, built at the end of the l9th century. It has a square plan and is made of rough and hewn stone. The clock tower is located in the Kaleiçi (Inner Citadel) District where the old Antalya houses may be found.
Turkish bath house dating to 1860s.
Hadrian’s Gate was built in the name of the Roman Emperor Hadrian, who visited Antalya in 130 AD It has three arched gates. According to the legend, Sultan Belkis, the Queen of Sheba, is said to have passed under those gates and enjoyed a happy day in the palace in Aspendos on her way to visit King Solomon. Formerly the city walls enclosed the outside of the gate and it was not used for many years. This may be the reason why it has not been harmed, and it was only revealed when the walls collapsed.
The bus returned late to pick me up because one lady insisted on overtime at the jewelry store. When we returned to our hotel we found a bayram feast from the hotel management. Tonight we had a Turkish feast at the hotel. We were served thinly sliced seasoned meat carved from a vertical spit. Kabobs were grilled over an outdoor pit.
And there were Turkish musicians who provided music for our belly dancer. The exuberant belly dancer attacked my camcorder twice and then kissed me on the top of my head. Later in the program there was audience participation for our other members.
January 20, Kemer, Myra & Turquoise Coast
Today we set off on a full day exploration trek along Turkey’s fabled Turquoise Coast (see map on the right). The drive was unbelievable because of its beauty. It is said that Marc Anthony gave the Turquoise Coast to Cleopatra as a wedding gift. At a roadside stop I videoed the inland snowcapped mountains.
The scenery was breathtaking when we took sharp turns and precarious drop-offs revealed the sights below. Hakim passed the test as a quality driver with flying colors.
The first thing I taped in Myra (Demre) was the Byzantine fortifications hovering over the ancient city, and then I turned to Lycian rock (cliff face) burial tombs of the 4th century BC. We walked to the left of the theatre where a large entrance opened to a stairway leading to seats on the upper levels. Inside the theatre we walked about the orchestra. Tiered seating was to the left of us and the stage on the right.
The intricate carved artwork on the stones in the stage area was ornate and beautiful. As we left the Myra Theatre I took a parting shot of the entrance and stairway to the upper seating.
A closing thought: In the early years of Christianity, 60 AD., St. Paul, as a prisoner, met with his followers here on his boat trip to Rome (map).
The other major site in ancient Myra (Demre) was the Church of St. Nicholas. During the Byzantine period, Myra maintained its role as a religious center. In the 4th century AD, St. Nicholas of Patara, later known as Santa Claus, was a bishop of Myra.
In the 6th century AD the early chapel and tomb here was replaced with a large church. The church has since been restored in the 19th and 20th centuries. A large section of mosaic floor tile has been restored. The central nave was separated from the side aisles by arcades.
We walked to the south side of the church where a damaged sarcophagus is located. This is thought to be where Nicholas was buried. Outside the church is a large statue of St. Nicholas graced with young children. Nicholas has a sack over his shoulder because he had a reputation for distributing gifts.
The base of the statue has a colorful Santa Claus on it.
Hakim drove us to a restaurant in Finike. From here we had a commanding view of fishing ships in the harbor. See map at right.
We boarded our bus and proceeded on to our last stop of the day - Phaselis, not far from Antalya. See map above. Two thousand years ago in Roman times this was a thriving port town shipping rose oil and the perfumes made of it, as well as timber from the surrounding forests. Phaselis has three harbors. When the bus pulled into the parking lot, the first thing we saw was the Roman Aqueduct, a structure that had extended for miles
A 24-metre-wide ancient street runs through the middle of the city. On the sides of the road can be seen remains of a large number of shops.
Roman public baths along the street
The 'Hadrian Waterway Gate' is on the southern part of the street. Here we found grey-white marble blocks, many with elaborate carvings.
The Acropolis was surrounded with walls and the theater was founded on the northwestern slopes. The auditorium and skene are still identifiable.
January 21, Kemer
After breakfast we walked around Kemer and visited shops for last minute shopping. In the evening we had our farewell drink and dinner. Then it was farewell (and tipping time) to Rana and Hakim.
January 22, Return
We took a flight from Antalya to Istanbul on Turkish Airline with a 6 am departure. From Istanbul we flew on Turkish airline to JFK in New York. Here we bid farewell to our fellow travelers. Great trip!
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