We departed Liechtenstein (Lieck on map above, extreme left) and were now in Austria. We had
our passports stamped and shortly afterwards we drove through a nine-mile tunnel, the Arlberg
Strassentunnel, longest tunnel in Europe.
The tunnel had been expensive to build and necessitated a toll booth.
Before arriving at our home base of Seefeld our bus took winding roads into the mountains offering beautiful views of Telfs and the Inn River Valley.
Nestling on a mountain plateau high above the north side of the Inn Valley among grassy pastures, forested slopes and rugged peaks, Seefeld is as attractively situated as any Austrian alpine resort.
Our hotel, The Alpenhotel Lamm was 3,450 feet above sea level on a sunny plateau. It had the rustic charm of a Tyrollean retreat. The cozy interior of this 1940s hotel is decorated with ceiling beams, rural artifacts, and baroque sculpture. What I liked best about our lodging was the location on the Altstadt square.
We checked into our First Class hotel and settled down for a welcome drink in the comfortable lounge. We met our new guide Siggy who would be with us for the next week.
July 6, Thursday
The first walking trip of Seefeld started at 9 am led by our free lance guide Siggy. Siggy usually does not work for Grand Circle and was just filling in. Right next to the hotel was the St. Oswald Church.
Siggy told us the story of St. Oswald: In 1384, a knight named Oswald Milser attended Mass here. Oswald was a man of great arrogance and pride demanding the large host for himself - the small host normally given to the congregation was too ordinary for him. The frightened priest handed him the host. But as soon as he had the host in his mouth, the knight sank into the ground up to his knees. Pale with terror, he grasped the altar with both hands, leaving imprints that can still be seen.
The knight begged the priest to remove the host from his mouth. As soon as it was done, the ground became firm beneath him again. In the remaining two years before his death, the knight continued to perform penance for his sacrilege. In accordance with his wishes, he was buried near the entrance of the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. Shortly after the miracle, a knight (perhaps Oswald himself) donated a silver monstrance in which to enshrine the miraculous host. Grating in the floor covers a pit where Oswald allegedly sank. The site soon drew many pilgrims. Some say the church is really named after King Oswald of England.
The city had so many decorated scenic buildings.
We ate lunch in town at Nanny’s Treff where we ordered beer and salads.
The afternoon walk from 2 to 4:30 pm took us around a lake just outside of town. The path had a sign “Derenade See". Majestic mountains could be seen above the lake
Siggy provided information as we walked through the beautiful countryside.
We soon came upon a forested region and friendly cows mit der klingers.
Siggy gave us a choice between returning to our hotel or venturing further to reach the Olympic
Center. We chose the longer route and were not disappointed. Seefeld hosted the 164 and 1976
Nordic events for the Olympic Winter Games and the 1985 Nordic Ski World Championships.
The center had a very large swimming pool.
Further along was a quaint church, the Church of the Holy Cross, also known as the Chapel on the Lake, because it was built on an island surrounded by a man made lake.
The church was built by Archduke Leopold V in 1629 and completed in 1666. The building has an unusual style for Tyrol, as it was built following the floor plan of a rotunda. The outside shows a delicate silhouette with an attractive onion tower.
In the evening we attended a band concert in the Kurpark. Quite a few people showed up. The late afternoon sunset colored the mountains. No seating by the stage was available so we sat on a park bench.
July 7, Friday
This morning we took the free city shuttle to the train/cable car so we could go up into the mountains. We boarded the Rosshuutte Tramway.
Irma and Mike stayed at the intermediate level while Annette and Fred took the cable car further up to the Seefelder Joch. See map.
Hang glider buffs were preparing for take off. They had to wait until the right kind of wind came up.
Fred felt like king of the mountain. He captured beautiful mountain scenes from here.
We returned to the hotel At 3 pm we left for an included GCT visit to Mittenwald, a German
border town. Our first encounter in the city was the baroque Mittenwald church which was
covered with colorful frescoes.
The entire city looked like something straight out of the Sound of Music.
The major activity for our visit was the violin museum. Near the museum (by the church) was a statue of a violin maker.
Inside the museum we heard a presentation on the art of making violins.
When we were to leave, the rain had picked up considerable and we started experiencing hail. We sought refuge in the St. Peter and St. Paul church next door. The interior of the church was quite ornate and the time spent here was worthwhile.
We continued to be amazed at the artwork displayed on the surface of the buildings.
On the way home we stopped to see the huge “Peace Bell” or Friedensglocke.
Back at Seefeld we had a festive Tyrollean Dinner at the Sewald-Alm with wine and music.
Later that evening after dinner, Annette and I went to the keller of the Alpenhotel for a beer and to relax to the music of a zither.
July 8, Saturday
Today we took an included train ride to Innsbruck, the capital of Tyrol (Tirol). The word bruck
comes from the German word Brücke meaning "bridge" which leads to "the bridge over the Inn".
Annette and I had been in Innsbruck a couple of times before, but the city is always a nice place to revisit with its pastel colored buildings, interesting shop signs and charming sidewalk cafes.
Understandably, our first major stop in the Altstadt was the Golden Dachl (Golden Roof) with 2657 gilded copper tiles that shimmer atop a Gothic oriel window. The Golden Roof was built by Archduke Friedrich IV in the early 15th century as the residence of the Tyrollean sovereigns.
The Golden Roof actually is the three-story balcony on the central plaza at the heart of the Old Town. It was constructed for Emperor Maximillian I to serve as a royal box where he could sit in state and enjoy tournaments in the square below.
Siggy pointed out the famous Helbling Haus with its rococo ornamentations.
And the Old City Hall Tower....
Fortunately for us, a free band concert was being held under the Golden Roof. Afterwards we ate lunch at the Weinhaus Happ on the Square. The cost for two meals with the trinkgeld (tip) came out to 17.73 euros or $16-17 US.
After our enjoyable lunch, we headed for Dom St. Jacob (St. James Cathedral) with its baroque interior.
An organ concert was being presented which provided wonderful background music during our visit.
We wandered over to the Leopold II fountain opposite the Hofberg (Palace). A music performing group from the University of Wisconsin Conservatory of Music was gathered around the fountain. Little did we know then that this same group would perform for us in Seefeld later on.
To give our feet a little rest, the four of us hailed a horse drawn carriage for a city tour.
Fred made friends with the horse and commended him for a job well done.
Back in the Altstadt, we walked past the Goldener Adler, one of the oldest (16th century) inns in Innsbruck.
Heading down Maria Theresien, we viewed the Annasulle (St. Ann’s Column), a tall slender building erected to commemorate the withdrawal of Bavarian troops on St Anne's Day in 1703. The column is surmounted by a statue of the Virgin Mary; St Anna stands on the base near St George, the patron saint of Tirol, and other saints.
Our busy tour completed, we boarded a train for the trip back to Seefeld.
The included dinner at the Alpenhotel Lamm was a typical five-course affair and very Austrian.
Annette heard rumors that a group from Wisconsin in a masters studies program was going to give a concert at St. Oswald Church next door. The church was full so we kinda made improvised seating up front. One of our GCT members felt sorry for Annette and “borrowed” a cushioned chair from the altar area and placed it in the aisle for her. Many of the songs and hymns were familiar to us. We should have felt conspicuous, but the concert was so spiritual and so uplifting that we we felt comfortable.
July 9, Sunday
After our included buffet we waddled out to the bus stop for the Gratis-Dart bus for a self guided tour of the city. The buses could be counted upon to arrive every 30 minutes and could be picked up at any stop (see map). Best of all, there was no charge.
In the afternoon we took the GCT 12:30 optional tour. En route to the Achensee we saw mountains
and the Castle Tratzberg along the Inn River,
The first stop was at Pertisau on the Achenee where we saw a large farmhouse. Often stones were placed on the roof to hold the tiles down.
From here we took a boat ride across lovely Lake Achenee.
Trails lined the lake front for adventurous hikers.
Fred found much to scan with his camcorder.
The tour included the picture book village of Alpbach in the Kitzbuhel Alps. A “Kaffeeklatsch” treat awaited us at the Gsasthof Post (right). Some signed up for the traditional apple strudel; others chose the chocolate torte.
We had time to look over the beautiful flowers and buildings.
And to look inside the ornate church....
And unique cemetery....
The last stop of the day was at the former mining town of Rattenberg, one of the oldest towns in Tyrol. After the mines were exhausted crystal was discovered in the surrounding mountains.
The "smallest town in Austria," Rattenberg is the home of the Kisslinger family, known for their lead cut crystal and blown glassware. After making the rounds of this charming, little town, which is also located on the Inn River, we watched the family at work doing glassblowing, crystal-cutting, engraving and using hand-painting techniques.
On the way home we saw the 13th century Castle Matzen from the bus.
July 10, Monday
In the Discovery Series “Secrets of the Austrian Kitchen,” Siggy and the hotel chef demonstrated how to make apple strudel. Afterwards slices were distributed to the audience, along with copies of the recipe.
The four of us went next door to the Hotel Klosterbrau to see the clouster-turned-hotel.
After our tour, Annette and Fred went downstairs to the old keller for mugs of Old Kaiser beer and entertainment.
So much for Austria, and now for Bavaria....
GO ON TO 2000 ALPINE TOUR PART IV BAVARIAN ALPS & SOUTHERN GERMANY
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