2003 French Art Tour II: Barbizon to Normandy

Having satisfied our interest in Chateau Fontainebleau, we headed through the countryside toward the nearby village of Barbizon. Though the village and surrounding forest attracted well-known French artists as early as the mid 18th century, the village is famous as the focal point of the mid 19th century school of painting called the Barbizon School. This style, practiced primarily by landscape painters, laid the foundations for modern Impressionism. The artist colony’s most notable residents were the painters Jean Francois Millet, Charles Daubigny and Henri Rousseau. Corot was often associated with the Barbizon group. Our walking tour took us past a painted village scene which I taped. The quaint street offered a pleasant setting for walk. Annette seemed to enjoy looking around. A couple of the buildings had historical significance, such as the Millet House and the R.L. Stevenson building. The waiting buses took us past the outskirts of Barbizon and back to the Bizet.

We returned to the ship for lunch (with a delicious dessert) and began our cruise toward Paris. As we sailed I caught on tape people waving at us along the shore. Olivier and Annette on the upper deck. Joyce, sister of Marlene Ingebritsen. Norte Dame. Low bridge (New Bridge) constructed under Napoleon III. Louvre. De Orsay. Novotel, Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower all at one time in a perfect setting.

We were officially welcomed aboard this evening with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres at the Captain’s Welcome Reception, followed by the Captain’s Welcome Dinner. Six of us Inner Circle members were invited to sit at the Captain’s Table because we had taken the most Grand Circle tours in the past.

Annette & the Captain at the Captain’s Table

Viewed countryside after leaving Paris at evening time.

Accommodations: Grand Circle's M/S Bizet









DAY 8 - MONDAY, AUGUST 18

We sailed through the night, and docked in the early morning hours at Conflans and the Oise River.

We were honored to have an informed speaker talk to us. On my video I recorded the faces of well known Impressionists. In the coming days, we’ll be exploring sites where Impressionism thrived, and we had a chance to get some background information during this morning’s exclusive onboard lecture on “The Impressionists.” Our lecturer began with historical background that preceded the Impressionists and then characteristics of the Napoleon III period in which they painted. After her lecture, she showed slides of paintings that reflected the style and themes that had been popular and accepted by society. The first painting illustrated the classical and historical theme. The second of a classical nude with emphasis on exact balance and proportion. The third of a landscape with dark colors. Then she showed slides of Impressionistic art: Note oral commentary with slides.

Characteristics of Impressionist paintings include visible brush strokes, open composition, emphasis on light in its changing qualities (often accentuating the effects of the passage of time), ordinary subject matter, the inclusion of movement as a crucial element of human perception and experience, and unusual visual angles. The emergence of Impressionism in the visual arts was soon followed by analogous movements in other media which became known as Impressionist music and Impressionist literature

Claude Monet
Impression: Sunrise

Claude Monet
Woman With Parasol

Edgar Degas

Edgar Degas Sculpture Little Girl of 14 Years

Edgar Degas
The Dance Class (1873-6)

Edgar Degas
L’Asinthe

Auguste Renoir: Vibrant light, youth, color

Auguste Renoir
Girls at the Piano (1892)

Auguste Renoir
Dance at LeMoulin (1876)

Auguste Renoir
After Bathing

Camille Carot
Barbizon School

Carot
Ville d’Avray (river scene)

Carot
Peasants Under the Tree at Dawn 1840-5

Carot
Woman Reading (1869)
















Then slides of deviations from Impressionism: Prostitutes, reflecting hard life, factories, smoke....




After the presentation , we disembarked at Conflans for an excursion through Van Gogh Country. The Seine, the Epte, and the Oise are the three French Rivers referred to as the Rivers of Light. It was to the areas around these three rivers (which neighbor each other in this vicinity) that the Impressionist artists flocked to paint the landscapes and scenes that are so recognizable throughout the world. Today we concentrated on the Oise River and Van Gogh.

Our bus ride took us to Auvers-sur-Oise, the village where Vincent Van Gogh came to live after his release from the asylum in nearby Saint-Remy.

He and his brother, Theo, agreed it would be best for him to remain close to his physician, Dr. Gachet, (at right) who was the subject of several of his portraits during this time.

Our bus crossed the Oise River and parked along the bank. Van Gogh had partially decided on this location because his friend Daubigny (on right)had lived here earlier. As we approached the village on our walk, we came upon a statue/monument to Daubigny of the Barbizon School.

Van Gogh painted his garden(on the right), one of his last paintings.

Nearby was the Church of Auvers-sur-Oise made famous by Van Gogh. A marker there displayed a
picture of Van Gogh’s painting of the church (on right).

Our local guide then led us down a road leading to the cemetery, She stopped to show us the setting where Van Gogh had painted his “Wheat Field With Crows,” one of his last works (painting right).

She then explained in great detail the last lonely days of Van Gogh’s life. For three months (May, June, and July), Van Gogh remained at Auvers-sur-Oise until his suicide in 1890, creating some of his most brilliant pieces. Remarkably, he produced almost 80 paintings in this short time including the turbulent “Wheat Field With Crows,” Our guide led us through the cemetery to the grave sites of Vincent and his brother Theo.

This picturesque village also welcomed Corot, Pissarro, and Cezanne among others. The setting looked pretty much the same as when Van Gogh lived here. We walked past the Musee Daubigny on our way to the place where Van Gogh stayed, the Ravoux Inn (on the right).














We continued our stroll, now heading toward the bus, when we came upon Van Gogh Park. In the middle of this park was a statue of Van Gogh with his easel and paint equipment strapped to his back. Further along was the Garden of Daubigny. Here too, was a marker with a copy of Van Gogh’s painting depicting the garden scenery. Last, but not least, was the railway station where Van Gogh had arrived at Auvers-sur-Oise

Back on the bus we headed for the barge chapel “Je Sers” situated only five minutes away from where the Bizet was docked, Dating from 1919 and designed to carry coal; the barge chapel is today a renowned charity institution. The barge had been turned into a chapel that seats up to 100 people. The exterior bears a church-like appearance. This enterprise operates as an aid society for homeless and abused people and manages 400 meals per week.

Next to the barge chapel were many barges tied together that provided homes for retired barge owners.












We returned to the ship for another magnificent lunch. The Bizet departed Conflans during lunch and cruised toward Vernon (map below). We found a nice spot on the sun deck and enjoyed gazing at the life of the river as it passed before us. Waterfowl. Mistletoe bunches in trees. Sometimes we went below to relax in the front of the observation lounge.

When we approached significant sites, our Grand Circle guide announced it so we could head back on the sun deck for a better view. Such was the case with the monumental Church of Our Lady in Montesla Jolie (lower part of map at right). Soon afterwards we passed a small charming French village surrounding a parish church. The banks of the river now began to display larger white cliffs, a favorite subject for the Impressionists.

We were warned to have the camera ready as our ship passed La Roche Guyon, where Monet’s close friend, the artist Pierre-Auguste Renoir, established a studio. Though known primarily for his paintings of people and for portraits, Renoir also painted scenes of this beautiful area.

As we cruised, we could admire the town’s castle (right), built on the chalk cliffs overlooking the River Seine. This castle was built at a strategic position between the Epte and the Seine and was entirely dug in limestone cliffs so that the enemy could hardly see it. The dungeon was linked to the castle by a secret underground passage.

In the early 14th century, the cliff was “cut off” to give space to the new castle. Down below it was enlarged and repeatedly restructured until the 18th century. Rommel’s General Headquarters was located here during World War II.
We docked at the port of Vernon later in the evening. Annette and I took a self guided walking tour of this charming port city. In the 9th century, Rollo, first duke of Normandy, created Vernon. It became French during the reign of Philippe Auguste early in the 13th century and is now a pleasant residential town.

Just off the pier where we docked was a war memorial monument surrounded with flowers. A plaque expressed appreciation to the United States troops that liberated Vernon from the Germans on August 25, 1944 (Normandy invasion began on June 6, 1944).

Next we viewed the imposing Collegiate Church Norte Dame from the outside. We were particularly interested in the flying buttresses and the huge rose window over the entrance. Since it was evening, unfortunately the doors were locked. Across the street from the church was “the house of past times.” This corbelled construction dated back to the 15th century. Referred to as the oldest house in Vernon, it had original half-timbered facades. It was once an Inn, but now housed the Tourist Information Office (also closed).

We continued walking around the city, concentrating on the older sites on Rue Potard, which included more beautiful half-timbered houses that had leaned or sagged somewhat from time.










We returned to the ship for our 7 p.m. dinner. Scheduled entertainment that night was performed by a French couple who liberally catered to the dancers of our group. Joyce Hummel danced with the French professor from South Carolina. The shipboard staff often joined in on the dance floor. The Captain of the Bizet, Alain Pinoy, was often dancing, sometimes even with his wife. Of course, Olivier was active. Davis and Sherri Nobles watched, as did we, from ringside seats just off the dance floor.

Accommodations: Grand Circle's M/S Bizet











DAY 9 - TUESDAY, AUGUST 19

Today’s main activity was to be exploring Giverny (previous map). After a hearty breakfast, we disembarked for an excursion into the countryside to see the lovely landscapes that inspired Claude Monet. The unique light of the area’s Seine Valley in Normandy kept Claude Monet in residence
after he “discovered” the village of Giverny in 1883. He stayed here until his death in 1926.

The gardens have been replanted, and as we strolled through them, we saw with our own eyes the landscapes that have graced countless Monet paintings. We viewed the thousands of flowers, including the famous nymphéas (water lilies).

The Japanese bridge, hung with wisteria, which led to a dreamy setting of weeping willows and rhododendrons. Monet's studio barge was installed on the pond. “I want to paint like the birds sing,” Monet said. You’ll agree that the idyllic setting in Giverny would lend itself to his dream.






Monet came to Giverny at age 43. While taking a small railway linking Vetheuil to Vernon, he discovered the village at a point where the Epte stream joined the Seine.

Many of his friends used to visit him here at Le Pressoir, including Clemenceau, Cézanne, Rodin, Renoir, Degas, and Sisley. When Monet died in 1926, his son, Michel, inherited the house but left it abandoned until it decayed into ruins. The gardens became almost a jungle, inhabited by river rats. In 1966, Michel died and left the house to the Académie des Beaux-Arts. It wasn't until 1977 that Gerald van der Kemp, who restored Versailles, decided to work on Giverny. A large part of it was restored with gifts from American benefactors, especially the late Lila Acheson Wallace, former head of Reader's Digest.

We toured the artist’s home, left by his son Michel to the Academie des BeauxArts in 1966 and now a museum dedicated to the great painter. The house is furnished as it was when the leader of the Impressionist School lived here, including his precious collection of Japanese engravings. There were restrictions against photography and camcorders inside the house so these did not make it on the tape

While here, we had our choice of visiting either the American-Impressionist Museum (works of American artists who painted at Giverny) or the Maison Baudy. We choose to visit the Maison Baudy, so we could walk the tree-shaded grounds and gardens that for a century have carried the scent of its ancient rose bushes. Olivier showed Annette the way. In this setting we drank apple cider and admired a Monet print we had just acquired. We walked around the Maison Baudy that had provided our refreshments.

This former hotel offered its rooms and a small studio to the first painters that followed Monet to Giverny, many of whom were American.


We returned to the ship for 1 o’clock lunch and then spent a portion of the afternoon starting at 3:30 p.m. on a home hosted visit with two friendly French co-hosts:

First of all they walked us over to the Tourist Office (right) , gave us maps of the city, and offered to escort us on a city tour. Fred asked if we could begin with a look inside Collegiate Church Norte Dame. They readily agreed. The west facade of the church boasts a rose window in high gothic style. The nave was in high perpendicular style. The ambulatory had ribbed vaults and a statue of Saint Adjutor, patron saint of Vernon.

Next was the attractive Town Hall, built in 1889, enhanced with grounds of beautiful flowers. Built in the 19th century, it faced the Collegiate Church. The builders took care to raise the bell tower higher than the church to compete with the power of religion. Our lady friends took us inside and to the upper floor where we observed the “Salle des Mariages” (Reception Hall), a long gallery used for civic purposes.

Our tour continued on around the city and past half-timbered houses that Annette and I had discovered the night before. We again saw the Tour des Archives, the keep of a castle built by King Philippe Auguste (ca. 1200).










The best part of our visit was to be taken into a French home for home-made apple tarts and wine. After our friendly visit, the ladies drove us back to the pier (They were fast drivers - zip zip) and bade us farewell. Annette gave a French kiss to Touigue Ramlizat upon parting (Like the French she went though the motion of a kiss on each cheek while making a smooching sound). Au revoir et merci encore (Good bye and thank you again) to our friends. When we return to the United States, we’ll send them a picture of George Bush as a token of good will. Chirac would appreciate the gesture.

As soon as we boarded our ship we departed for Les Andelys (posted notice). Just as we approached the port of Les Andeles, we saw the impressive Chateau Gillard, the stronghold built by Richard the Lion-Hearted, King of England and Duke of Normandy, in order to prevent the King of France, Philippe Auguste. to make his way to Rouen along the Seine Valley. The whole construction (1196) of the fortification took only a year.

The village of Les Andeles, according to Grand Circle, “lies in one of the loveliest settings along the Seine.” St. Sauveur (Norte Dame Church) stood in the center of town. A well-balanced facade of twin towers, flanked by a square staircase tower, fronts the church. The Bizet pulled in to the docking area along the park-like waterfront. Fred chose to take in a quick walk around the town, especially to see the Norte Dame church up close. A photogenic scene presented itself with hollyhocks in the foreground, the ship along the shore, and white cliffs in the background. A little walk beyond the ship revealed an architecturally interesting domed hospital called St. Jacques. As Fred walked back to the ship, he was watched by a curious cat sitting in a window of a half-timbered house. This is all on the videotape.

Before dinner, at 6 p.m., all members of the Grand Circle Inner Circle members were invited to a special acknowledgment party. Olivier served hor d’oeuvres which we downed with French wine. It was a nice honor.

Evening entertainment of a Las Vegas style Crew Show began around 9 p.m. The entire Bizet staff, including the Captain (with green hair), opened the show with a French song. We were treated to a number of musical skits such as Cabaret, Pop Star (the hotel manager), Blind Sunbather, Sailors at Sea, Whoopi Goldberg Sisters Act, and the Can Can of Moulin Rouge.

Accommodations: Grand Circle's M/S Bizet

DAY 10 - WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20 Day

The ship departed Les Andelys for Rouen (map) early (7 a.m.) in the morning.

After lunch we disembarked in Rouen for a walking tour, starting down Rue Grand Pont to Place de la Cathedrale. The historic center of the town was mostly a pedestrian area. We started with Rouen's wonderful French Gothic cathedral, whose façade has graced many Monet paintings (his series “Cathedrales de Rouen”).

Rouen's cathedral was immortalized by Monet in his paintings of the facade with its galaxy of statues. The main door, Porte Central, is embellished with sculptures (some decapitated) depicting the Tree of Jesus. The 12th-century Porte St-Jean and Porte St-Etienne flank it. Consecrated in 1063, the cathedral, a symphony of lacy stonework, was reconstructed after suffering damage in World War II. Two towers distinguish it: Tour de Beurre was financed by the faithful willing to pay for the privilege of eating butter during Lent. Containing a carillon of 56 bells, the Tour Lanterne (Lantern Tower)--built in 1877 and utilizing 740 tons of iron and bronze--rises to almost 150 m (500 ft). Entombed here is the heart of Richard the Lion-Hearted, a token of his affection for the people of Rouen.

Monet, Rouen Cathedral 1894 (on right)

We headed westward down Rue du Gros Horloge to see the Gros Horloge, or Great Clock. Since its construction in the late 14th century, the Gothic belfry has housed the town’s bells and clock. The current archway and clock face were rebuilt in 1527-1529. The half-timbered houses in the foreground date to the early 17th century.

Rouen is an important French commercial city with a distinguished history dating to pre-Roman times. During the English occupation of the 15th century the “infamous” events took place whereby the 19 year old “Jeanne d Arc” was imprisoned, tried for heresy, and burned at the stake. We visited the markets of Market Square and Evy pointed out the site of where Joan’s execution took place in 1431. Today a tall stake topped with a cross marks the spot.

We were looking for a bakery in town to fulfill an assignment given us by our Directors. Each of us had been given half a Euro to purchase some variety of bread to share for dinner. Annette and the Fedeles pooled financial resources. We found our bakery shop near the Market Square and  discovered that French bread came in many shapes, sizes and types. We made a choice and Annette purchased our loaf.

We crossed over to Rue aux Juifs to see Rouen’s Palais de Justice, incontestably one of the most important and beautiful examples of civil architecture from the Late Middle Ages. To the left was the west wing, the oldest part of the structure (1499). The central building immediately in front of us, was decorated in an extraordinary Gothic style. The decorations culminate at the roof line with interlaced rosettes, crocked pinnacles, four-centered arches, gargoyles and statues.




We continued westward on Rue St. Nicolas to Rue de la Republique to visit St. Maclou’s Church (1437) which art historians consider to be a masterpiece of Flamboyant Gothic style. The interior architecture is dominated by vertical lines and is as sober as the facade is ornate. On Rue Martainville, at the end of the passageway, was Aitre St. Maclou, a cemetery for the thousands who died in the Great Plague of 1348. Three of the galleries that surround the cemetery were built between 1526 and 1533 to serve as an ossury, or charnel house. Today, the Aitre St. Maclou is home to the regional fine arts school. From here we headed back to the Cathedral to view the eastern and southern sides. On the way back to the ship, we spotted a war memorial to those who perished here between 1940 and 1944.

We ate lunch on the Bizet and rested up from our morning walk. Fred returned to Rouen to hear an exclusive organ concert scheduled for 5 p.m, at the St. Joan of Arc Church for Grand Circle. Arriving early, Fred had time to more fully appreciate this building. This monument to Joan was built in 1979. The church was topped with a tall trapezoidal roof covered with slate. An extension of this roof also shelters the memorial bearing Andre Malraux’s famous homage to Joan. Fred taped the arrival of our Grand Circle friends (Nobles)as they filed in for the concert, and again as they sat in the pews awaiting the appearance of the organist.

Once the organ recital was underway, my camcorder scanned the church. The church’s interior contained splendid 16th century stained glass windows from St. Vincent’s Church, which had been destroyed during WW II. Luckily, the stained glass had been put in safe storage in 1939. After the concert, Fred taped the overall interior, including the wave-like ceiling.






Just outside the church, a young people’s group was conducting a contemporary worship service. They had situated themselves in the center of ruins (from W.W.II) of St. Vincent Church. The English speaking leader of the group contrasted Christ with Joan of Arc (“she’s dead”). His emphasis was on the complete redemptive work of Christ. A lady interpreter translated his words into French. Teenagers who had earlier conducted a religious drama skit, now performed a religious dance.

On the way back to the Bizet, I took another look at the famous Rouen Cathedral (church bells were ringing for my recording), this time including a video of one of Monet’s renditions from a marker.

Claude Monet believed that objects do not have their own set of colors. The weather, the time of year, and even the time of day give a different appearance to each element of landscape, offering the attentive observer a continuous succession of different scenes. For proof, we have only to look at Monet’s magnificent paintings of Rouen Cathedral.

Then from the vantage point of Pont Boieldieu, I taped our boat while a young skater passed by on the pier. Back on board, Annette and Fred sat back and enjoyed margaritas in the lounge area. Dinner was great as usual, this time consisting of soup, salad, appetizers, wine, rack of lamb, and a fancy dessert. Evening show time tonight was provided by a female singer (with a laugh) and an accompanist. The music was a mix and went over well: Blue Moon, I Love Paris in the Springtime, You Are My Sunshine, etc. Exuberant Grand Circlers on dance floor. Annette clapped along with the music.

Accommodations: Grand Circle's M/S Bizet

DAY 11 - THURSDAY, AUGUST 21

This morning brought more scenic cruising on our way to the port of Caudebec.

From the balcony of our room I captured quaint villages, half-timbered houses with thatched roofs, tranquil countryside, cattle in the open fields.... We also had a disembarkation briefing in late morning, and another French lesson in the lounge.

We enjoyed lunch onboard just before arriving in medieval Caudebec. This city too, had a romantic quality. Homes were decked out with flowers. To go ashore we had to cross an arched foot bridge. Note David and Sherri Noble in the foreground. Our blue dot bus was waiting to take us on an excursion to the Abbey of St. Wandrille and the Benedictine Abbey of Jumieges, one of several on Normandy’s Route des Abbayes constructed in the seventh and eighth centuries. We traveled on a tree-lined highway.

We tackled the Abbey of St. Wandrille first. Wandrille founded the abbey in 649 and soon had a community of 300 monks. Monastic life continued to flourish until religious orders were suppressed in 1790 (anti-Christian fervor during the French Revolution).

Our guide du jour explained not only the ruins, but the present living quarters of the 46 monks and their chapel. The Benedictine monks who reside here are renowned for their preservation of traditional Gregorian chant. Grand Circle Travel had made arrangements for us to attend a chapel service in which the black-robed monks chanted. Following the service we toured the cloister grounds. A number of statues here were headless, casualties of the religious wars of the 17th century. Our guide took us over to the abbey gift shop, where recorded chanting provided background music for shoppers. Monks attended the shop.

We also visited the beautifully restored Benedictine Abbey of Jumieges which was once a great center of learning and religion housing more than 2,000 monks. All that remained after the French Revolution were these impressive and still majestic ruins. The abbey was built under the Benedictine Order in 654 by St. Philibert. The first of the preserved ruins was the Portal Gate.
The next we observed was the Church of Our Lady whose ruins tower almost 160 ft. into the sky. The main part of these ruins which are still visible consists of the nave. From here we could see the scaffolding set up by archeologists who are studying the age and source of the construction material. One part of the Church of St. Peter remains which can be dated to the 10th century. Our driver took along more tree-lined roads on the route back to the ship.

Tonight, we said "au revoir" to our river ship, its amiable staff, and our new friends at the included Captain's Farewell Cocktail Reception and Dinner. The hotel manager passed out hors d'oeuvres (Note Marilyn Fedele). At dinner the Wulff Wulffs dined with the Nobles and Karen and Phil Morris. The Scottish waiter/bartender was his usual amicable self. Dinner featured both shrimp and steak with asparagus and potatoes. The crew paraded the dinning room doing the flaming Baked Alaska ritual. The crew was acknowledged and received their well deserved accolades. Sherri and the Scottish waiter hammed it up. Dessert was baked Alaska with chocolate sauce.

After dinner we were treated with music provided by a young French couple. Annette and Bruce hit the dance floor, as did Olivier. The Captain kicked up his heels with Evy, and later with the performers.

Accommodations: Grand Circle's M/S Bizet

DAY 12 - FRIDAY, AUGUST 22

We were scheduled to disembarked after breakfast for a walking tour of Honfleur; but because of the low tide by that port city, we were transported by land in three buses. We crossed the Seine River bridge to la Maulleraye-sur-Seine and then headed northward past scenic country and well-preserved buildings. Caravan of buses on a roundabout. Just before reaching Honfleur was the Pont de Normandie (photo on right) off to our right.


Once in Honfleur, our guide Evy led the way from the dock through historic streets.

Note Dick Fedele. The well-preserved port town of Honfleur was founded in the eleventh century. Situated on a Seine estuary opposite Le Havre, the town was once one of the most important ports in France. The port changed hands frequently between France and England during the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453) and was finally won back by France in 1450. In the 1800s.

We strolled along the Vieux Basin, the old harbor, which has fishing boats and slate-roofed narrow houses.

Artists along Quai St. Etienne were busy painting the beautiful setting. No wonder that Monet, Corot and Daubigny were attracted to this very same site.

On the north side of the basin, was the former governor's house, the Lieutenancy, which contained the administrative body of the nearby port. It dates from the 16th century.

This building in particular was the subject of many artists. It was also from here that many voyages of discovery were launched, including the journey of native son Samuel de Champlain —founder of Port Royal in Nova Scotia and the settlement of Quebec in Canada (marker).

More half-timbered houses lined the street as we moved on. Nearby was the Eglise Ste-Catherine, Place Ste-Catherine (right), built of timber by shipbuilders in the 15th century.  One unique feature of this church is that it had two naves, like two churches put together with the inner wall removed. The interior was quite interesting and merited a rest stop visit. Annette and the Nobles visited while sitting down on a pew (recorded on video).

The church's belfry  (right) was on the other side of the street and was also of wood.
The artist Boudin painted the old wooden bell tower, and again it was convenient that the state had placed a marker so that one could view both his painting and the subject.

Heading back to our bus we came across a fish stand with fresh fish of many varieties.

From the other side of the harbor I zoomed in to capture the stand, the harbor and the fishing boats.

Our drivers took an alternate route back (A29 on map) to Caudebec, allowing us to see much more of France. We crossed the Seine River at Honfleur on the Pont de Normandie, taking us past the southern part of Le Havre. From the bridge we could see much of the river bottom exposed by the low tide. Our drive along the north bank of the Seine took us past the Chateau du Diable, fields of cattle, little villages and an impressive church (map A131 from LeHavre toward Caudebec).

Back in Caudebec en Caux, Annette and Fred left the boat to take a better look at the Church of Our Lady (Norte Dame), not only the exterior (right) but the interior (on video) as well since the church doors were open.

Interesting nave, vaulted ceilings, altar, stain-glassed windows and pipe organ loft. The church was built between 1425 and 1539. As we walked to the pier, we again saw men playing some game by bowling balls on the ground -- something like Boca.

We returned to the ship to enjoy our last onboard dinner with the traveling group.

The fancy dessert was worth a picture. The ship remained in port tonight.







The after dinner onboard activity scheduled for tonight was Quiz Time. The Directors had us divide up into large groups for an exam on our trip. Our group was among the finalists for a playoff skit. For something French we sang a French song (note Annette). To impersonate a cruise director Annette was chosen to take the mike. Joyce and Dennis Hummel were also in a playoff group in which Joyce and Jenny were key participants. Our friends Marilyn and Dick Fedele represented their group by portraying a dog being taken for a walk in Paris (Paris is famous for its dogs going on walks and leaving deposits). This later group won the prize -- a bottle of French wine.

Accommodations: Grand Circle's M/S Bizet

DAY 13 - SATURDAY, AUGUST 23 13

After breakfast on the cruise ship, we boarded a motor coach for our transfer via A13 to Caen (see map). Our buses again passed over the Seine River bridge to la Maulleraye-sur-Seine and passed country churches and grazing cattle. We were about 150 miles from Paris. Caen played a significant role in the D-Day Invasion, but it was an important town in medieval times as well, and seized by William of Normandy during the eleventh century Wars of Religion. He ruled here before he conquered England.

The focus of our visit was The Peace Memorial (or War Memorial) only 15 minutes from the landing beaches.

Upon entering the museum (mirror over door) one confronts an English warplane suspended from the ceiling, the pilot of which was killed in June of 1944. The museum presented a journey through history from 1918 to the present.

Hitler threateningly appeared on a screen over our head. In the main lobby area was a wall painting of a landing craft on the beach of Normandy. Caen was a major objective of the Normandy Invasion,and the battle for possession of the town lasted more than a month. 70% of the city burned in a fire that raged for 11 days, and the downtown area was almost entirely rebuilt after the war.





We entered a large auditorium for a movie on D Day shown on a split screen. To the left appeared allied forces mobilizing and carrying out the assault, while simultaneously on the right screen was the German forces hunkering down and firing at the invaders.

We ate lunch on our own at the Memorial lunchroom before boarding the bus for our trip to Paris. The bus made a rest stop for us to purchase snacks and to stretch our legs.

After Grand Circle dropped off our English guests at the railroad station in Paris, we headed for the Courtyard by Marriot Roissy.


For dinner, Fred ate a sandwich purchased earlier in the hotel, while Annette ate with friends in the hotel dinning room.

A large comfortable king-size bed provided a good night sleep.











DAY 14 - SUNDAY, AUGUST 24

Breakfast at the Marriot was more than adequate. Afterwards we gathered in the lobby to await our bus. Grand Circle (Note Evy) meticulously checked our luggage to make sure everything got on the right bus.

Once at the Charles de Gaulle Airport, we waited at our gateway for the flight to Chicago. A little excitement came with a loud explosion, which we later learned was caused by security guards blowing up unattended luggage.

We flew American Airlines to Chicago and then to Minneapolis. Arrived in MSP at 8:30 p.m. Clarion picked us from the airport. Driving time to New Ulm was two hours. Three lonely cats were waiting for us at the door.

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This trip far exceeded our expectations. Wonderful experience at an unbelievable price.