This morning, we left Portugal (map) via the bridge over the Guadiana River, the natural border with Spain. Miguel drove through strawberry fields and orange groves en route in Spain.
We had some nice views of Seville from the bus, even though on the video Çelia is talking about Granada in her presentation.
Then our bus crossed over the famous Rio Guadalquiver that empties into the ocean at Cadiz. Continuing onwards we passed the Castle in Alcala de Guadaira, Osuna, and Esteda (two views of the castle on heights -- right side of bus). Our lunch stop was in La Roda where we started off with bread, salad and wine. Miguel drove us across the Andalusian farming lands, and mountains (some covered with snow) reaching the Costa del Sol in the late afternoon. The full transfer, including stops and lunch, took about eight hours. Our driver, excellent Miguel had to leave our tour and headed back to Portugal.
This evening, we enjoyed the flavors of regional cuisine at one of the Dine-Around restaurants. Accommodations:
. The hotel had a big room for a buffet breakfast, Cafeteria, Pool Bar, Playing Cards Room, Swimming Pool, and Gym (free of charge). All guests had free access to all facilities in the complex Don Pablo Don Pedro. Meals could be taken in any of the buffet restaurants. Our room was a little small but very adequate. The bedstead consisted of a beautiful tapestry-like design.
The view from our balcony was nice, overlooking a fountain and the pool. To the south we could see the Mediterranean Sea. The bathroom employed liberal use of marble-like tile. Annette found a nice corner in which to read.
Unusually high waves pounded the beach, which challenged young children along the shoreline.
FRIDAY, DAY 15 Torremolinos/Malaga
Today we concentrated on Malaga (Mel a ga). Though Malaga is the main city of coastal Andalusia, it still retains a taste of the real Spain, with twisting, narrow streets and a lovely waterfront promenade.
Tall palm and plane trees, bougainvillea, aloes, and geraniums luxuriate to make a tropical paradise alongside the clean, modern port. This is Picasso’s birthplace, and was a pop-ular winter holiday site for the 19th century wealthy. Our bus first stopped at the waterfront. In the distance we could see the old Moorish fortifications from a bygone day. Also visible was the Cathedral dome.
Hopping on the bus again we aimed for the Malaga Cathedral.
Note the range of architectural styles—including Gothic, Renaissance, and baroque—as the cathedral's construction spanned over two centuries. Diagonal to the church was the extravagant Bishop’s Palace.
The interior of the cathedral was incredibly beautiful, and thus the extensive coverage on the video tape. Our guide pointed out an interesting large painting of the beheading of Paul, a side chapel featuring Ferdinand and Isabella, and the Chapel of the Annunciation.
A leisurely walk then took us to the ruins of an ancient Roman theater, built over 2,000 years ago.
The Grand Circle Foundation is supporting the continued excavation and restoration of this site. Stone material from the theater was used by the Moors to build the overhead castle and later some was used in the construction of the cathedral.
Further exploration of the Castle complex.
Celia stopped us as we headed back to the bus to give us a surprise -- tasty Spanish pastry.
Our tour included the Malaga Bullring, where a seasoned matador demonstrated some techniques used in this quintessential Spanish pastime. Our presenter’s grandfather and father (killed by a bull) were bullfighters. He followed in the profession from age 16 to 27. He himself had been gored a number of times in the ring. Exhibits displayed famous bulls, embellished matador outfits and photos of prominent matadors in the ring.
On the way out I scanned the Malaga Bullring with my camera. Picasso visited this bullring often as a child, and bullfighting became a frequent motif in his early works.
When we returned to Torremolinos we had lunch with Gilbert and Johanna at a restaurant a block from the hotel. At 5 p.m. we attended a lecture “Spain: Past, Present and Future” delivered by Professor Sofia Munoz Valivieso, from the University of Malaga. For our evening meal we used the Dine-Around to eat at a classy place, the Cetus (part of the Bonjondilos, where Fred had spent two weeks on an earlier tour).
Annette started off with a large shrimp salad. All the dinners were great.
Flamenco was scheduled tonight at the hotel complex so we went with Gilbert and Johanna, but because of the crowd size we sat at different locations. The entertainers were young attractive dancers who did a little of their own choreography, but many key elements of Flamenco were incorporated into their program.
SATURDAY, DAY 16 GIBRALTAR
Today we opted for a tour of Gibraltar, a crown colony since 1834 and one of the last survivors of the British Empire. Celia combined enough Green and Orange people so that the local tour agency could give us a bus and driver without stopping for any other passengers.
Before arriving at Gibraltar we had a good view of the Rock from a distance.
Because buses cannot go up the Rock, we transferred to a white minibus. The driver was English and gave us an excellent tour. To reach the other side of the Rock we had to go though a tunnel (one of many). On the southern side was the Europa Point Lighthouse (1841) to guide ships around the Rock and the
Ibrahim-Al-ibrahim Mosque (restored, but not in use).
Annette stood by an information marker and in the background can be seem the mountains of Africa.
Winding roads led us to the “Rock Apes” now consisting of six packs.
One of these monkeys recognized the voice of our guide and ran over to greet us.
We engaged in monkey watching and
the monkeys watched us.
Next we toured St. Michael’s Cave with its beautiful rock formations. Of particular interest was the cross-section of a stalagmite on view that showed the history of its growth. Then, back to the monkeys who entertained us. One particular monkey was crippled and ostracized by the others. Our guide made a practice of finding and feeding her.
Heading downward, we passed the Moorish Castle, a reminder of past occupation between the 11th and 15th century. Our van dropped off in the main part of the city. Lunch was just a brief stop at Burger King, and then we walked to the end of the main drag. Here we saw an English Bobby as we waited as a group to head for the bus. The ride home was scenic. The large number of newly constructed buildings impressed us for newcomers to the area and increase in the number of tourists. Many large building complexes were still under construction.
For dinner we chose a steak house for our dine-around option. After a good meal (Fred had steak), we (with Gilbert and Johanna) went over to the Bonjondilos to watch an entertaining free Flamenco dance performance by seven young talented ladies.
SUNDAY, DAY 17 Morocco
Today we joined a unique and exciting optional excursion to exotic Morocco by crossing the Strait of Gibraltar—the junction of two oceans, two cultures, and two continents. First we went to the embarkation in point in Spain at Tarife.
While waiting to board our ship, I videoed the large Moorish castle at Tarife.
Our modern passenger/car ferry was called the HSC Nordic Jet. and quite comfortable as Gilbert can attest.
A Moroccan guide met us at the port, and led (herded) us on a tour of Tangier, starting with Cape Spartel, where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet.
At a camel stop, Fred mounted one of the unfortunate creatures.
Next was the Kasbah, which we entered through the ancient gate. For some reason we seemed intrigued by a woman washing her laundry by a water pipe. The Moorish style of architecture was in evidence everywhere. Our guide sought out a snake charmer. The snake is on the video, but Annette preferred to avoid watching a snake. Hence no photo. This fellow was pretty daring with a good-sized cobra. Strummers provided the swaying music. The guide then singled out a merchant (probably a relative) and helped him sell goods.
By lunchtime we were hungry and the sign Restaurant Hannadi looked pretty good. The musicians, with authentic old African instruments, played as we entered and left, but only at other times when they had to be prompted by donations. Annette started with a bowl of what appeared tomato soup.
Of course, there was wine (from France). The belly dancer was quite different from usual. She had so much clothing she could have passed as a clothes-rack. Dinner consisted of carrots and chicken over rice.
The dessert was quite tasty and caloric. Tea turned out to be hot sweet water with mint leaves - and had a good flavor. Afterwards we were to have seen the Bazaar, but Annette, Fred and Celia took a cab back to the bus because the walking was too arduous for Annette. We bought Celia a coke. Then back to Spain. That night we went to our local restaurant and tried out an everything pizza -- not Godfathers, but we enjoyed it.
MONDAY, DAY 18 Torremolinos
Today we chose to have a day of rest so Annette could recover from the lengthy walking.
TUESDAY, DAY 19 Torremolinos
We took another day of rest and leisure. Fred walked around Torremolinos, browsing through the shops. Buying shoes was not on the agenda, but he found a nice pair of leather ones for 25 euros, after bargaining. When Fred came and went from the Don Marco, Annette greeted him from our balcony. Fred walked up the Spanish Steps to the high street above and then walked over to a monument inspired by Picasso.
That evening Professor Jim and his wife Margaret asked us to join them for a dinner at a Shanghai Chinese restaurant called Chino. White wine was the choice of beverage. All the food was delicious and served in stages -- beef, shrimp, and pork. Best Chinese food we ever had and the price was not bad -- 23 euros per couple.
WEDNESDAY, DAY 20 Torremolinos/Mijas
Exclusive Discovery Series Event
This morning we enjoyed a lecture on “Andalusian Culture & the Flamenco.” Flamenco is an authentic folk art of the Andalusian Gypsies (flamencos). This spontaneous, heartfelt, and intricate style of song and dance is a blend of Moorish and Arabic influences with traditional Spanish rhythms. The evolution of flamenco is a source of debate, but conventional wisdom is that the Gypsies who settled in Andalusia traveled from the Middle East, integrating that region’s distinct sounds and movements with those of Southern Spain. The tragic tones of much of flamenco music are said to reflect the suffering of the Gypsy people, who expressed their desire for recognition and freedom through the technical footwork and plaintive singing of the art form.
The unique flamenco style is recognized the world over. During an exclusive lecture with a University of Malaga professor, we learned more about its colorful history. He personally showed us some flamenco hand clapping and guitar techniques. Then a professional flamenco dancer honored us with a performance that illustrated the use of castanets, the intricate hand and fan movements, fancy footwork, and audience participation. Afterwards I videoed the lecture hall we had just vacated.
We set off with Grand Circle in the afternoon to discover a village that defines Andalusia. The town of Mijas is a picturesque pueblo blanco (“white village”) set high in the Sierras overlooking the sea.
First we looked at the shrine Virgin of the Rock constructed out of a cave by monks in the 17th century. High up in the mountain to the north was the Shrine of the Calvario built in 1710 and used by barefooted Carmelite brothers for spiritual retirement.
To save walking uphill, Annette and Fred hired on one of the town’s famous unmetered “donkey taxis,” for 14 euros.
Then our bus departed for a Panoramic Tour on the way to Alhaurin el Grande. Situated at the foot of the northern slopes of the Mijas Mountains, Alhaurin el Grande offers wonderful views over the Guadalhorce Valley, rich in fruit and vegetable patches and olive and cereal groves.
While in Alhaurin el Grande, we gathered at a local restaurant El Mirador for a Farewell Dinner
... and a performance by tuna musicians—the guitar-playing serenaders whose beginning dates to the 13th century.
Wearing striking black costumes with baggy breeches and long, gaily decorated capes, tuna performers originated as students who entertained in return for a few coins and a bowl of soup. Obviously, Annette enjoyed the show.
After dinner was picture-taking time so I did some shooting of fellow travelers. On the bus trip back to our hotel, Celia and Gilbert provided excellent parting speeches. And then, the Malaga Airport. We had a great trip with great people!
No comments:
Post a Comment