2005 Portugal & Spain I Cascais & Lisbon

JOURNAL OF ANNETTE & FRED WULFF

Portugal to the Costa del Sol (Feb. 2005) - 21 days Grand Circle Travel





FRIDAY, DAY 1 Depart USA for Lisbon, Portugal

On Fred’s video the TAP plane at the Newark airport, TAP desk and Lisbon designation. Annette used the short wait to do a little reading. Note the winter setting of the runway at Liberty Airport. Photos with Annette’s camera.

SATURDAY, DAY 2 Cascais, Portugal

We arrive at 6:00 a.m. in Lisbon. We were met at the airport by Celia (pronounce see-lee-ah) our guide and transferred (about 45 minute ride) to our hotel in Cascais (pronounced kish-cash) on the Estoril Coast. Celia immediately designated our group of 45 the Orange Group as opposed to the other 45 members in the Green Group.

The 127-room Cidadela was set on a main street bordering a residential area. It was built in the 1960s as a luxury hotel and one of the best in the area.

A walk to the town’s pedestrian center was just 15 minutes (but it took Annette and I a little longer). We took a small elevator (from another era with wooden closing gates) to our floor.

Our air-conditioned room had a private balcony from which we could catch the beautiful sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean.

Below us was a large swimming pool. Annette made herself comfortable in our well-appointed room. Colors in the room were all well coordinated.

After a brief scheduled rest, we were slated for an orientation bus tour with Celia who said we would operate on “Portuguese time.” Note town map with location of the Cidadela Hotel.

We had a good look of the town’s Center with its harbor and Fisherman’s Beach. One could readily see why this was once a fishing village. One building really stood out --the Town Hall on the village square which was richly embellished with beautiful mosaics.

The streets had wave-like patterned tiles. On the opposite side of the Town Hall was the Church of the Navigators. In the center of the square stood a prominent statue of Pedro I. As we continued our walking tour of the Centro, we walked past a Brazilian music group playing lively music for coins from passerbys. Then we boarded our bus driven by our trusted navigator, Miguel.

We arrived back at our hotel for the Grand Circle welcome drink of champagne. Celia proposed a toast followed by a Portuguese toast. The evening ended with an excellent included dinner of soup, salad, chicken and the ubiquitous wine. Not to mention dessert.







SUNDAY, DAY 3 Cascais / Lisbon

The included breakfast buffet was very nice - good selection.

This morning we had an Orientation Briefing. Our Program Director went over the details of our trip and answered questions we had. We also heard about and purchased Optional Tours for Portugal.

The big event of the day was to discover Lisbon (See map below). On the way to Bilboa (as they call Lisbon) we had a nice view of the coastline along the Atlantic Ocean. We traveled along the Estoril beach, one of the many beaches before we approach Lisbon.

Old Fort Estoril, built in the 17th century to defend Lisbon was actually taken over by nearby Castillo at Cascais.

Celia pointed out an island that marked the point where the Tagus River meets the Atlantic Ocean.
Soon we were able to see the large 25th of April Bridge that commemorates the bloodless revolution of 1974 when Portugal became a democracy. Discoverers’ Monument was impressive even from a distance.

Our tour included a visit in the 16th century church of the Jeronimos Monastery, (began 1502; built in 1515-1520 to celebrate Vasco da Gama’s successful voyage to the Indies) classified in UNESCO's International Heritage list. The income of great wealth from colonization was quite evident in the structure. The monastery portion to the left is where 99 monks resided in dormitory rooms. The Archangel Michael Tower was at the entrance of the church, the pivotal point for the blend of Gothic, Renaissance and Indian architecture known as the Manueline architectural style (named after Manuel the Fortunate).

Celia, as usual, gave us an interesting and animated presentation which included coverage of the tomb of Vasco Da Gama, the chapel area (with Indian elephant statues) the unusual equal height pillars w/ different diameters that supported the church, ornate vaulted ceilings, and stone carvings on a confessional doorway depicting peoples of the colonial empire that had been witnessed to by missionaries.



A very short distance away was the famous Belém Tower (Belem is short for Bethlehem), the sentinel over the Tagus River that had protected the entrance into Lisbon. Here we encountered the purest Manueline style, built in 1512-21 The very large park and Tower was well used by visitors, playing children, and locals walking their dogs. Dogs were bundled up with sweaters during the “cold” weather.

From here we went to the immense Monument of the Discoveries (Padrao dos Descobrimentos) in the form of a ship’s prow. Erected in 1960, it marked the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator. Celia pointed out that there is a woman’s figure in the monument, that of the mother of Prince Henry. The 175’ tower commemorates the Portuguese seamen who set out from here in the 15th century on their voyages of discovery.

At the head of the row of people on the prow stands Prince Henry the navigator, a model ship in his hands. Celia gave us a lot of information on the large map on the stone pavement leading to the monument. I videoed the portion that showed Vasco Da Gama's voyage to India. Then, back to the bus.

Our journey took us along the Tagus and the park-like approach to the 25th of April Bridge On the other side of the Tagus River was Christ the King, a replica of the monument to Christ in Rio de Janeiro.

In the Alfama neighborhood were many fashionable buildings with colorful tile designs.

It was in this region that the Fado music originated. From here we drove along a beautiful boulevard laden with flowers and manicured shrubbery, and past buildings of Moorish design.




















As we approached the main square of Lisbon, the Rossio, we came across a vendor selling chestnuts that were being roasting over charcoal. There were a lot of vendors at the square and there were two competitors squaring off against each other over territory. Fortunately they were shouting in Portuguese so we did not know what they were saying.

We crossed over into the square for a good view of the neo-classical facade of Teatro National de Dona Marie II (in background of photo right) . The official name of the Rossio is Praca-de Dom-Pedro IV.

In the middle of the square stood a marble column (put up in 1870) and topped by a bronze statue of King Pedro IV. The Rossio also could boast two lovely fountains. Like so many squares in the big cities, there were pigeons being fed by children.




Annette and I stopped at a coffee house. As we waited for the bus, we noticed the Arco Monumental de Rua Agusta (1873) that led to the Praca de Commerce that we would later visit.

South of the square was Elevator de Santa Justa that Celia had talked so much about.

Our bus driver drove slowly as we passed the Praca de Commerce, which offered us a good look of the square looking out over the Tagus. A royal palace had been located here before the 1755 earthquake and so the square is also known as Terreiro do Paco or Palace Square.

The bronze equestrian statue of King Jose I was erected in 1775 in the middle of the square. We had seen that statue earlier through the archway when we were at the main square.

To the upper right can be seen the Castle of Sao Gorge. The area around the steepest hill, Sao Jorge (St. George), was first settled by Phoenicians and by Carthaginians, Romans, and several

Germanic tribes and Visigoths. In 714, the Moors captured Lisbon, and held it for the next 400 years. Built on seven hills, Lisbon has been Portugal’s capital since 1147, when the first King of Portugal took it from the occupying Moors with the help of Crusade knights.



Next on the agenda were Old Town and the Casa dos Bicos. “the house of points,” which owes its name to the diamond-shaped ashlar blocks that clad its striking facade. The photo was shown earlier. This 500 year-old structure had survived the 1755 earthquake. Celia wanted us to experience life of the common people having fun on a Sunday evening, so we stopped at a large hall where people gathered informally and danced to the music of bands.

To wrap up a very full and informational tour, we concluded with an elegant dinner at the Atlanticus Hotel. Our meal started off with a delicious salad. Of course there was wine and we chose the white. Professor Jim engaged Annette in an interesting conversation. In this rather formal setting, Fred tackled beef kabob, deserts and coffee.

MONDAY, DAY 4 Cascais/Cape Roca & Sintra

During our Exclusive Discovery Series Event, we learned how to tie some of the fishnet knots commonly used by Portuguese fisherman. Our instructor was a weathered fisherman who demonstrated his skills before turning on us. Celia helped out many of the game participants. Annette dug right in, but Fred restricted himself to being a cameraman.

This afternoon (included tour), we traveled along the coast towards Cape Roca, the westernmost point of Continental Europe. We listened on the bus as Celia gave us all details for our visit.

A monument with a tall cross-marked the place where the known world ended and explorers set out for discovery. The wind and salt spray limited the amount of vegetation to a small cactus-like plant. The view from the Cape was tremendous -- cliffs, rock formations and the wind blown sea (Map shows the location of Cape Roca).

Our bus climbed into the mountains covered with trees to reach Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This city was a favorite of Lord Byron. He described it as “this glorious Eden,”and wrote to his mother that it was “perhaps the most delightful village in Europe.” Here, we visited the 14th century Royal Palace, summer residence of the royal family. Its two dominating conical kitchen chimneys were unique features. The palace contains some of the oldest tiles in Portugal.


In front of the Palacio stood a late Gothic pelourinho, which had been made into a fountain.

On the summit overlooking Sintra were walls of an old Moorish fortification, Castelo dos Mouros, which had been captured from the Arabs in 1147.

We visited vendors (with Celia) and shops featuring small rugs (with rooster design), Annette purchased only a small porcelain piece. Ann and Fred found a quaint little place that sold Port wine by the glass. A small seating area provided space to enjoy it.

We orange people later enjoyed dinner at a restaurant in upper Sintra before returning to the hotel. Naturally there was wine to go with our bread, cheese and olives. Annette ordered a plate of mushrooms for starters.














TUESDAY, DAY 5 Cascais/Optional Wine and Tiles

Exclusive Discovery Series Event During the morning, we participated in an exclusive tile painting class to learn how to paint the beautiful azulejo tiles we saw all over Portugal. Wherever we went in Portugal, colorful azulejos tiles adorned the inside and outside of houses and shops. In fact, we’ll find that they are as pervasive to the culture as the venerable Portuguese spirit that creates them. The conquering Moors, who had decorated them with simple triangles, squares, and diamonds, introduced Azulejos to the region.



As the Portuguese empire flourished, so did the intricacy of the tiles. In the 16th century, Portuguese artists brought more color and variety to the art form, favoring blues and yellows and floral and religious scenes.

We had the chance to learn more about this interesting art form and to tap into our own creative spirit by painting an azulejo of our own. Annette painted a rooster and Fred a Portuguese ship sailing the ocean blue. It was the perfect way to get in touch with a centuries-old Portuguese tradition—and we have nice souvenirs to show for it.

Then on to an afternoon optional tour to one of the fabled wine regions of Portugal.

We started in the early afternoon by going to Lisbon where we saw buildings that had been constructed for the Exposition 1998. The eyes of the whole world (8 million visitors) were on Lisbon so she showed her best face -- the modern Utopia Pavilion, Pavilion of Marine Science and the Pavilion of the Future -- all built where there had been a seedy and neglected industrial area.

Just off of Expo 98 construction site we crossed the Tagus River on the Vasco Da Gama Bridge, the longest bridge in Europe and one known for its panoramic views. We then stopped for a tile-making demonstration at S. Simao Art in Vila Fresca de Azeitao and learned all about the tile making process from various techniques to final product. We saw that much of what was done was exactly as we had done in the morning when we painted our own tiles. Afterwards we were turned loose in a showroom where Annette bought “301” address tiles for our home.

We continued on through the countryside to the region where Portugal’s famous muscatel wine is produced. We visited the wine cellars where the fruity wine is aged in mountains of casks and a
work area where employees boxed bottles for shipment. A walk around the grounds revealed the magnitude of this operation. The company even had its own man made lake, replete with swans, as a water reserve in time of drought. The best part was the wine tasting. Mike and his therapist posed for the photographer. Before boarding the bus, I ventured out to the entrance grounds to catch shots of the modern art stationed there by the owner. The proprietor also had collections of ancient statues and memorabilia.

On the way back to Lisbon we drove over the 25th of April Bridge (reminded us of the Golden Gate Bridge).From the bridge we had a good close-up view of the Christ the King Monument on one side and the city of Lisbon on the other side. Shortly we came across the city aqueducts.



Dinner that night was dine-around and we choose Edwardos, down the street from the hotel. This place was great. Generous portions of wine, good salad, tasty and tender duck and fancy dessert.

WEDNESDAY, DAY 6 Cascais/Optional Queluz Palace

In the morning Annette and I walked down to the Cascais Mercardo Municipal (market place) where the locals bring in their produce and fish. Quite a busy place! Since the walk back to the hotel was uphill, we took a bus.

On an optional afternoon excursion we visited Queluz National Palace, an 18th century royal residence built in the style of Versailles.

It was constructed between 1747 and 1794 for Pedro III and his wife; later Queen Maria I. Queluz began as a modest palace of the princes and was transformed over time into a rococo retreat. Palace Chapel was in the purest Rococo style that you see today.

Inside, we saw the opulent room where foreign ambassadors once presented their credentials to the King, the Queen’s boudoir and the lovely music room.

This palace was designed by a pupil of German architect Johann Fredrich Ludwig and has often been compared to the palace of Frederick the Great that we had visited near Berlin.

The courtyard and the formal gardens were fantastic and received considerable attention from the camcorder.

After the tour, we headed back to Lisbon to the Belem area. Very close to our rest stop were the Belem Tower and St. Jerome Church and Monastery. Brazilian musicians greeted us as we entered the teashop. We enjoyed coffee with the traditional Portuguese cake, Pastel de Belen.





As we took the bus back to our hotel, I took video of the many recently constructed apartment buildings. Although Portugal has not yet achieved prosperity to the level of Spain, it has made great strides since joining the European Union.

Exclusive Discovery Series Event

Through traditional music and dance, the influences and history of an individual culture are uniquely expressed. During our tour of Portugal, we heard the plaintive strains of Fado music, the poignant songs of unrequited love that are synonymous with the culture. Fado music is both deeply lyrical and sentimental. It is often accompanied by the strumming of a traditional Portuguese guitar, an indigenous instrument with a unique sound that is the pride of Portugal. Interestingly, Fado music is thought to have its roots in African slave songs, and the Fado guitar is likely a descendant of the Arab Lute. This suggests that the Fado tradition evolved during the Moorish occupation of the Algarve and southern Portugal before the Crusades.

The evocative music of Fado has come to be identified with a feeling of longing and a unique Portuguese fatalism. In fact, the word Fado translates as “fate” in Portuguese. This evening, we enjoyed a special dinner and evening of Fado music entertainment at our hotel.

THURSDAY, DAY 7 Cascais/Abides & Obidos/Nazare

Video of Grand Circle Bulletin Board, Map and Sunrise from our balcony. Today, we embarked on an included full-day excursion to the towns of Obidos and Nazare. First, we visited the fairy-tale hilltop town of Obidos, known since 1282 as the Queens’ Town because it was a traditional wedding gift from the Kings of Portugal to their Queens.

In 1444, ten-year-old King Alfonso V married his eight-year-old cousin, Isabella, in the old church in the Town Square. As we approached the castle and walled city, we knew we were in for a treat. Before entering through gate we could see the St. John the Baptist church founded by Queen Isabella in 1309 and enlarged in the 16th century.

The Town Gate (1380) shelters the Oratory of Our Lady of Piety. Note the beautiful mosaic illustrations within.

We visited 13th century St. Peters Church (with mosaic decor) before reaching the end of town and the fortified wall of the city.

St. Mary’s Church (built 12th century and rebuilt in the 16th century) was extremely impressive and Celia spent considerable time pointing out its features, the exterior (elaborate entrance) and the interior (1696 mosaic walls and paintings (1661) above the altar.

Afterwards, Celia then came up with another of her surprises -- complimentary cherry liquor. Gilbert
appeared to enjoy the sweet refreshment.

In a nearby gift shop Annette purchased a small rooster figurine.

Just outside, we examined the castle walls and fortifications.

Part of the castle, the Pousada, is now used as a hotel for tourists. Having completed our tour we headed back on the upper road of the town to the bus.

As we left, near the entrance, we came across a massive 16th century aqueduct. Local school children were about to begin their tour of this beautiful city.
From our departing bus we were afforded a beautiful overall view of the walled city of Obidos and the castle.

And then just outside the city was the ornate Our Lord Jesus of the Stone Sanctuary,one of the main baroque constructions in Portugal.

Part two of our tour took us to Nazare and the Sittio overlook. What first caught our attention was the prominent Nazare pillar and cross-monument that commemorated a visit by Vasco Da Gama here after his famous voyage to India. The view of the city beach and rocky shore below us from this high cliff was breathtaking. Annette purchased an irresistible doll from a vender.

Vasco Da Gama (right)

From this stop we also visited the Capelo da Memoria where Da Gama gave thanks to Nossa Sennora da Nazare for his return.

Not to be overlooked before living this prominent spot was the impressive church and square.

Now for the city below where we were to have lunch. As we strolled to our seaside restaurant we passed a fisherman who was drying out his mackerel along the shore. Our meal was fantastic, consisting of bread, wine, cabbage soup, fish and custard.

After lunch, we had free time to walk along narrow streets lined with fisherman’s houses where the older
women still wear traditional skirts with seven petticoats. The old women were not that photogenic with their shortened skirts so I captured the multiple petticoat concept in a store window display. The fishermen wore checkered shirts, trousers in a different check, and black stocking caps, used like a purse for money. Another deviation was a child dressed in a “carnival” costume, reminding us of the upcoming
Lenten season. Posters around town announced the Carnival in Nazare.


Before leaving Nazare I took a shot of an old women dressed in black roasting chestnuts.

FRIDAY, DAY 8 Cascais

Bulletin board. Typical breakfast available at our hotel: cheese, ham, pork loin, eggs, bacon, toast, tomato and juice. Thus fortified, we set off on 25th of April Street to the west of town on the coast road (map) to see Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), where, in turbulent weather, the sea crashes against ancient caves carved into the cliff face.






Annette soaked in the spectacular view. From here we walked along the rugged Atlantic coastline toward the Centro of Cascais.

Nice view from a bridge of a river emptying into the Atlantic by the nearby Citadel.

Stopping for a rest at the Town Hall, we encountered more costumed celebrants of Carnival. Last of all we honored the statue of the popular Portuguese poet Camoes,




GO ON TO 2005 PORTUGAL PART II