2005 Portugal & Spain II The Algarve

SATURDAY, DAY 9 Cascais/Tavira

This morning, we transferred from the Estoril Coast to Portugal’s southernmost province, the Algarve. Note map of Portugal. Tavira is on the lower right.

We saw many cork trees orchards. 

Celia had samples of cork in the rough, which she passed around the bus. One piece showed how cork stoppers could be cut from the bark. Cork bark is stripped off for the first time when the tree is 25 years old.  Afterwards, it can be harvested every nine years. Only then, after the 3rd stripping, are they able to get the best cork for the production of cork-stoppers. Trees are marked with white paint to indicate the year that cork had been stripped. 

Portugal is the world’s largest producer of cork. 

Miguel kindly stopped the bus for a photo shoot of storks nesting in trees.

En route to Tavira, we also stopped in Alentejo for lunch. Grand Circle had arranged for us to meet a gracious lady who owned the Picadiro Horse Ranch (Brand BP). 

She led us to a horse-training arena where young horses were to become accustomed to trainers.

Watching the horses gallop around was quite a treat. 

Our hostess then took us over to the horse feeding station where we could pet and feed the horses. Annette made friends with a white horse. Chow time took us to a converted cow barn turned to a large lunch serving area. Food was good and plentiful. After lunch we were free to roam the ranch. Cows grazed contentedly on the hillside. The farm animals included many dogs, even sleek greyhounds. Time to leave, we traveled on winding dirt roads that led us out of this remote area to the main highway. Alentejo is one of the most unspoiled regions in the Iberian Peninsula -- green meadows, olive groves and cork oaks.

We arrived mid afternoon in Tavira, an ancient town in the Algarve. It was raining; a phenomenon quite unusual on this trip, but that did not dampen our spirits. I videoed the Gilao River through the bus windows as we crossed the bridge leading to our hotel. Our hotel, the Vila Gale Tavira, was really nice. 

We appreciated the drive up approach to the entrance, especially because of the rain. The 262-room Hotel Vila Gale Tavira was conveniently located within walking distance of the center of town.

The hotel had a nice pool.

SUNDAY, DAY 10 The Algarve/Tavira

Breakfast buffet was very comprehensive.

In the morning we Orange People gathered in the lobby for an orientation tour. The lobby was like a rotunda from which we could look up and see circularly railings around each floor level.

Celia led us around the charming town whose origins go back to around 2000 B.C. The town was an important port in the 17th century, but like much of the Algarve, an earthquake partially destroyed Tavira in 1755. The town rebuilt, and by the late 18th century was graced with several architecturally interesting buildings. Many of the outstanding buildings from that period are still standing.

Of particular interest (above) was the original fourth-century, seven-arched Roman bridge (green railings were added in the 1800s) that spanned the Gilao River.

We walked though a beautiful, well-maintained park to a silver colored gazebo made of steel. At the end of the park was an enclosed 1887 market building. Along the river front colorful fishing boats were docked. Note map of the city depicting our orientation walk.

Afterwards, a special Discovery Series event—a hands-on cooking lesson at the hotel led by a professional pastry chef and assisted by Celia. We learned all about an Algarvian almond-flavored treat—marzipan. We then helped make up a batch and tasted the results. The marzipan took the shapes of various fruits and vegetables. Annette made a banana. The lesson was ended with a sampling of a local liqueur made from regional herbs.

As we went back to our room we had an opportunity to see the huge inner courtyard and pool of our hotel. Afterwards Fred headed over to the town Centro to catch an enthusiastic carnival parade. 

In the late afternoon we attended a discussion by our Program Director on “Salazar and the Portuguese Colonies. 

“Professor” (Cilia incognito) gave us insight into Salazar’s mid-20th-century dictatorship, and we discovered how his position regarding Portugal’s African colonies led many Portuguese to war. She was very objective in her presentation, listing accomplishments and strengths of Salazar as well as the unfavorable aspects of his dictatorship.

Back in our room we had a big surprise. Celia had ordered champagne, an ice bucket and two glasses so we could celebrate Annette’s birthday in style.

Before going to our next activity, I caught the sunset from our balcony.

The evening was touched off with Ranch Folclorico Praia da Nanta Rota, a Portuguese Folklore Show with many festive dances and brilliant costumes. Celia gave an explanation for each of the varied costumes (including petticoats).

The dancers were of all ages. Even the youngest performed remarkably well. We purchased postcards to remind us this troupe and to support their cultural mission. Our dinner that night, as usual, was excellent fare.

















MONDAY, DAY 11 Tavira/Santa Luzia

First Miguel took us to Santa Luzia, the capital of octopus catching, and made a stop here for picturesque photos of the day’s catch. One fisherman was helpful by showing crates of octopi and holding up a 10-pound octopus for a view of its mouth.

Out on the dock fishing boats were unloading the morning’s haul from traps. Today there are about 40 boats devoted exclusively for the catch of the octopus.

Both Green and Orange people took a boat out into the channel and headed toward the ocean and our next attraction. The weather was cold and windy out on the water in an open boat so we huddled up to keep warm.

Once at Albacora, the former center of Portugal’s tuna fishing industry, we watched an informative documentary on tuna fishing. The local guide there took us to a clever display that helped us visualize the netting operation.

Photos on the wall of past fishing activity were helpful to acquaint us with this industry that had started in the 1880s.







From here we proceeded outside to stroll around the 1945 village “Arraia”where the fishermen and families had lived, the school they attended and the church in which they worshipped.

In 1972, only one tuna was caught in Tavira. The Tuna industry had petered out leaving only neglected empty buildings in Arraia. A large hotel company, the Vila Gale, purchased the entire site and turned it into a fashionable resort. The old buildings were restored under guidelines set by the government to preserve its integrity. We ate dinner in what had been the storage area for nets. Our meal consisted of both octopus salad and tuna steaks. The departing bus passed by drying salt beds and a pile of white salt, a reminder of another important industry in the area.


Around 9 p.m. Annette and Fred wandered over to the hotel’s bar to watch a Brazilian Carnival festival. The evening was capped with line dance and audience participation.

TUESDAY, DAY 12 The Algarve/Flavors of the Algarve

This morning, we drove inland to Almancil.
As the bus left Tavira we came across a small camp of gypsies. Along the highway were groves of almonds and oranges.



















When we reached Almancil, Celia pointed out the decorative chimneys on the houses, some functional and some not (just used for appearance).

Our main object here was to visit the Church of St. Lawrence

--- famous for the beautiful blue-and-white tiled interior that depicted the life of the saint.

Just down the street was the Almancil Cemetery with a mixture of gravesites, tombs and a mausoleum.

Then on to Loule, where the most famous traditional and colorful Algarvian market is held every day. During our free time here, we mingled with the local country people. The town was beautiful and had significant historic sites.

The bus left us off near the carnival site fronted by a large fountain.

We observed the Moorish Market, Moorish City Walls and an archeological dig site.

Back at the carnival site, race teams were competing as part of the festival. The United States was represented in the races. As we waited for the bus to return, we looked over the stands of the vendors.

For dinner we traveled on to Alte in the interior of the Algarve. Here, we enjoyed lunch with a local family.

Our hostess had a very nice home with chickens, ducks and a garden -- well situated along a canal. Our feast consisted of homemade food (bread, soup, tuna salad stew (pork, sausage and beans) with rice, oranges and dessert. Of course, there was wine. The hostess’ daughter (in the video standing by Gilbert) came in and chatted with us.





We returned to our hotel late in the evening, but still with time for the Tavira Carnival Parade.

WEDNESDAY, DAY 13

Today we took an excursion to two of the region’s most beautiful towns—Sagres and Lagos.

See western coast on map of Algarve.

Our lengthy drive to Sagres took us over the wide Rio Arade.

On the extreme southwestern tip of the European continent we came upon Cabo de São Vincente (Romans' Promontorium Sacrum), opening on to a vast horizon of sea and sky. The lighthouse here still serves smaller crafts that lack guidance systems. We visited the nearby remains of the magnificent Fortress of Sagres, originally built in the 14th century, and later altered in the 15th century. The fortress was largely destroyed by Sir Francis Drake and an 18th century earthquake.

Celia led us through the Entrance Gate and briefed us on the other side. Behind Celia was the chapel, Nossa Senhora da Graça.

Scenery here was windswept and dramatic. Both Sagres and Cabo de Sao lie on a rocky plateau, which terminates abruptly at the coast to form steep cliffs up to 500 feet in heights.

It was here that Prince Henry the Navigator, whose energies fueled the heroic Portuguese explorations of the world, founded a navigation school (marker).

Actually, the school consisted of a gathering the best scholars and knowledgeable seamen at that time.

We rode on for about 25 minutes to Lagos, one of the oldest towns in the Algarve, founded by Phoenician traders who discovered and used its fine natural harbor. Miguel took us to an extra stop so we could see the beautiful rock formations above Lagos (scenery on the tape starts after the flowers).

Lunch was reserved for us at Adega da Marina in town where we had soup, chicken salad and fruit dessert.















Lagos was the Moorish capital of the Algarve until 1241, when Christian armies took back the region. Later, the town was the departure point for many of the 15th century voyages of exploration that opened up the New World. This explains the prominent statue of Infante d Henrique or Prince Henry the Navigator.

Only a stone throw away was the fortification from Moorish times.

Celia took us on a walking tour that included a slave market site and the Church of Santo Antonio with its lavish interior. Decorated in extravagant fashion in 1715, the church is filled with elaborate gilt carved figures.

During free time, Annette and Fred walked over to the Lagos Fortress and the beachfront. Returning home, we crossed the Rio Arade and Fred could not resist capturing it again on video.






GO ON TO 2005 PORTUGAL & SPAIN PART III