Thursday, March 16, 2006

2006 Rhine & Mosel Rivers I Basel, Strasbourg. Baden Baden & Speyer


Itinerary: March 16 - March 31, 2006

Romance of the Rhine & Mosel, 2006 - 16 days

The narrative follows the portions videotaped.











This crise-tour was taken with GCT (Grand Circle Travel). Our ship, the Debussy, was launched in 2000. The Debussy has a capacity of 120 passengers in 60 cabins. 117 passengers were on this particular cruise. Fred’s cabin 320 (an upgrade) was located on the soprano deck



Day 1 March 16th, Thursday


After a comfortable night at Baymont Inn, I left my snow-covered car (park & fly arrangement) for the airport via hotel shuttle. As expected, almost all flights were delayed considerably because of the snow, so I asked permission to fly an earlier flight. That flight was delayed too, but I still reached Chicago at my original appointed time.

Flight details: UNITED AIRLINES, UA 1147 From: MINNEAPOLIS ST PL, MN (MSP) To: CHICAGO OHARE, IL (ORD) Aircraft: BOEING 737-500 JET Flight Time: 1 hr 22 m LUFTHANSA, LH 0431 To: FRANKFURT, GERMANY (FRA) Aircraft: BOEING 747 Flight Time: 8 hours and 0 minutes From: FRANKFURT, GERMANY LUFTHANSA, LH 3810 To: BASEL MULHOUSE, SWITZERLAND (BSL) Flight Time: 45 minutes

Day 2 March 17th, Friday BASEL (BALE)

Basel arrival in the morning. Map.

A Grand Circle representative met us at the airport and assisted with our transfer to the pier in Basel, where we met our river ship.






On the river bank where we were docked stood an interesting fountain featuring a strange birdlike creature that was the symbol for Basel.


















From my room I could see the Altstadt of Basel with its imposing cathedral tower.













Photos shown below taken of Basel are from the public domain of Wikipedia. Then switching the video to my room, there was a nice array of complimentary fresh fruit on the table. Those of us who arrived early had a light lunch on board and the balance of the day was at leisure. We could ponder the magnificent Rhine River. At Basel the river turns north and enters the Rhine Graben, a flat-floored rift valley lying between the Vosges Mountains on the west and the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) on the east. Strasbourg, France, a focal point for merging water routes from the Paris Basin, is located at the valley's northern extremity. With the junction of the Main River at Mainz, in Germany, the Rhine's seasonal regime becomes more stabilized.

In the early evening, we gathered for an introductory briefing about our Grand Circle ship and safety procedures. A welcomed “welcome drink.” was then served in the lounge. As we relaxed in the lounge we could see the Basel skyline on the horizon.

For the first time we met tourist guide Rolf -- who personally welcomed us aboard.

Day 3, March 18th, Saturday BASEL, SWITZERLAND

After breakfast, attend an Orientation Briefing. Our Program Director went over the details of our upcoming trip and answered questions. Before departing our ship, I videoed a map of the Old City and the route from our ship to the various key sites.

We boarded a streetcar for the ride downtown. Our “red dot” group followed Yolande for a walking tour. Yellow dot people were assigned to Greta and blue dots to Rolf. Basel architectural styles were quite interesting. A few buildings were quite different, as was one featured here with plates plastered all over a wall. This unusual creation was the work of a Polish artist, depicting released stress from thrown plates.






Even more entertaining was the nearby Tinguely Fountain of the Swiss artist Jean Tinguely who used scrap metal and pieces of everyday junk to build bizarre contraptions. The water basin freezes a moment of modern chaos as iron sculptures parodying human foibles maniacally spew water.










I considered our next site the most important one in Basel -- the Munster or Cathedral.





















Our first encounter was the Munster cloisters with an imposing statue of John Calvin by the entrance. This was fitting because the Swiss reformer shaped the theology of Reformed Protestant Switzerland. At the Reformation 60 altars and the church relics were removed from here. Since then the cathedral has been a Reformed parish church. Our walk through the cloisters was brief, but it gave us a feel of the earlier times. During the Middle Ages, the clergy held their many processions here. The cloisters were also a graveyard and stones lined the walkway.










Our guide stopped at a park-like area behind the cathedral where we had a commanding view of the river and the opposite bank. Switzerland’s second largest city has a split personality. On the one hand, giant, modern chemical concerns and pharmaceutical companies dominate the city. On the other, a network of narrow alleys weaves together the city’s medieval architectural heritage.

The Munster presides over the river and the Altstadt in a towering conglomeration of red sandstone, stained glass and sprouting spires. The 12th century Munster stands on the site of an ancient Celtic town and Roman fort. The rear of the cathedral embraces the Romanesque style while both the gothic and Romanesque are more in evidence in the front side and the spires. The red sandstone façade features hundreds of figures in various acts of piety ranging from trumpet playing to dragon slaying.



Behind the altar, gilt Latin inscriptions memorialize the life of Erasmus, the renowned scholar and staunch Catholic.











Although well known for his satires against abuses in the church, he remained Catholic, even after his beloved Basel joined the Reformation. When he died, the city set aside dogma to give him a proper Catholic burial in this Protestant cathedral.

The burial place of the famous Humanist (died 1536) was located on the left side of the cathedral under an impressive memorial. Before leaving the church I taped the neo-Gothic (1857) stained glass windows and the pipe organ complex.













Next stop on our walking tour was the Renaissance Rathaus at the lively Marktplatz, more evidence of the city’s medieval architectural heritage. The very red Rathaus, erected in the early 1500s to celebrate Basel’s entry into the Confederation, brightens Marktplatz with a blinding façade adorned with gold and green statues. Not only was the exterior facade impressive, but the interior courtyard with its interesting frescoes (even of dogs) was worth viewing as well. Before leaving the busy Marktplatz with its array of surrounding architectural gems, a poppy flower caught my eye.

Back on the streetcar we headed for the Debussy. Soon after our ship departed we encountered our first of many locks to lower us to the next level on the Rhine. We were on our way to Strasbourg (map).

We were now officially welcomed onboard to meet the ship’s crew at the Captain’s Welcome Drink. Since we were now in France, the ship sported a red, white and blue flag in the front of the ship. Formally dressed crew members served champagne and fancy snacks. Then the quite-young captain welcomed us aboard. When I returned to my room, I found an invitation to the Captain’s table for dinner -- preceded by drinks in the library. Our small group of Inner Circle Members was thus honored for our many tours with Grand Circle.

Day 4, March 19th, Sunday STRASBOURG, FRANCE

This morning we were to enjoy a sightseeing tour with a glass-covered boat along Strasbourg’s canals around the Grand Ile. Strasbourg has been strategically important since ancient times. It became a free imperial city in 1262, and then was occupied by France in 1681 and Germany in 1871. France recovered the city in 1919 after World War I.







The early portion of the canal was quite tranquil with local fishermen along the banks. Our first major site was the Palais de L’Europe where the European Parliament meets. Soon appeared the famous spires of the Cathedral of Our Lady. To the south of the Cathedral was Palais Rohan, often called the “mini-Versailles. ” It was built for the Cardinal Rohan in 1704 and today houses a gallery and three museums.





Half-timbered houses reminded one of the tax incentives that led people to have a smaller ground floor with overhanging upper floors.




















Then we approached a set of locks at Petite France.













On an earlier trip Annette and I relaxed here with a lunch and beer from the local pub (“Restaurant” on the right hand side in the video) and watched tour boats in the locks below.










Petite France is the name given to the area around the various arms of the River Ill. The Tanner’s House dates to 1572. Our tour craft continued to the four great defensive towers and the nearby “Vauban Barrage” (Terrasse Panoramique) before changing course. The Vauban Barrage was built in 1681 in order to reinforce the obsolete mediaeval fortifications.


Under the 13 arcades of this bridge the floodgates could be closed and the southern front of the city flooded, thus keeping it safe from attack.

The boat tour concluded at the Palais Rohan (right) in the town center.

From the Palais, we walked with GCT to visit the Cathedral of Our Lady, one of the finest of Europe’s great Gothic cathedrals. The east end was begun in the 12th century. Its lofty single spire dominates the city. The cathedral became the tallest building in the world when its single spire was added in the 15th century, a position it was to hold until Ulm Cathedral in southern Germany was completed. We walked around inside while a mass was being celebrated. The austere gothic interior was in stark contrast to the ornate exterior.

Located on the northwest corner of the square in front of the cathedral, the Maison Kammerzell is considered to be the best half-timbered house in Alsace. It belonged to the rich merchants throughout the centuries. The ground floor is from the 15th century, the upper level date from the 16th century. Nearby was a little man cranking up an organ grinder that played catchy carousel melodies.

Mission accomplished in Strasbourg, we walked over to Place d’Austerlitz to meet our waiting shuttle bus. En route to our ship we came across carnival preparations for the season. Resting comfortably back in my room I watched swans floating around outside my balcony window.-

At a little past 5 pm GCT hosted a party for the Inner Circle Members. Again we were treated to drinks and fancy fare. Two Way, Mary and Ruth sat with me and shared in the refreshments. Ivana was our gracious waitress in costume that evening at dinner. Dessert was worth a picture. An accordion player strolled around providing dinner music

Following dinner, we were serenaded with traditional chansons (French songs), which reached their peak in the 16th century. Music was provided by an energetic accordion player called Armand Jehleand a romantic lady singer who had a fascination for baldheads.

Day 5, March 20, Monday STRASBOURG/BADEN-BADEN

Early this morning we could visit Strasbourg some more (free shuttle) or relax onboard. Since I had visited Strasbourg before I chose the latter. Besides, we had a scheduled Exclusive Discovery Series Event scheduled for 11 am in the lounge. The Black Forest, we were soon to drive through, is known the world over for its production of intricate cuckoo clocks. We learned onboard about the art of making these fine timepieces.

After an early 11:45 am lunch buffet, we departed for Baden Baden on a scenic motor coach ride through the Black Forest. Higher elevations brought about more snow cover. . We soon visited the spa town of Baden-Baden, nestled in the thick, deep green forests.



















Our coach driver let us off near the Evangelical Stadkirche.

Clients such as Queen Victoria, Kaiser Wilhelm I, Napoleon III, Berlioz, Brahms and Dostoyevsky made Baden Baden a sophisticated playground. More recent clients have included characters from Barbara Streisand to Yasser Arafat.















The center of activity here is the Lichyentaler Allee, the promenade lining the banks of the Oosbach River (affectionately called the “Ohs”), which runs through the center of town. At the north end of the Kurpark are the buildings of the Kurgarten,including the classical Kurhaus. Behind its white columns and façade is the Spielbank, the oldest casino in Germany (1838). It has been in operation for more than 200 years. Although we did not indulge in wagering here, we did look around and make use of the restrooms.

High above town was the 12th century Old Castle of Hohenbaden. To the right and above the Romerplatz stands the Renaissance castle, Neues Schloss, built in 1479 by the margrave of Baden Christoph I to replace the 12th century castle.








Our next stop was at the Trinkhalle for a tasting of the warm mineral waters, thought by many to have restorative powers.

Roman legions discovered the underground springs when they settled here in the 1st century and named the place Aquae. The loggia of the hall is decorated with Frescoes depicting Black Forest legends.












In front of the Trinkhalle was a statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. Our guide thought this ironic because it was the Kaiser who in 1871 outlawed gambling and brought distress to the casino. The grounds of the area were covered with lovely little flowers that seemed to sprout up like dandelions.












After our guided walking tour we could do some exploring on our own, and possibly spot one or more millionaires that reside in this exclusive resort area. I did find a nice statue of Otto von Bismarck, the Chancellor of William I.








Our meeting point was McDonald’s; after which we walked to our motor coach. Leaving Baden Baden we passed through a long tunnel. Our cruise ship was waiting for us at Greffern.

Before dinner, our program director gave an informative port talk as we cruised toward Speyer Dinner was served by staff dressed in costumes. After dinner we bet on “horses” (choice of one out of five horses), which moved spaces to the roll of an oversized dice (di?).

Day 6, March 21, Tuesday SPEYER

Today our included city tour was the city of Speyer, a city rich in church history. Three incidences stand out.

1) In 1076, emperor Henry IV embarked from Speyer, his favorite town, for Canossa. He had been excommunicated by Pope Gregory VII because of the Investiture Conflict.

The "Investiture Conflict" developed out of the desire by secular rulers to expand their authority by having church officials be dependent upon them for their lands and their religious offices. This had the desired effect of increasing the power of the state, but only at the expense of taking power away from the church. Naturally, the pope and other church officials were not happy with this situation and fought against it.

Gregory demanded that Henry appear in Rome to repent of his sins. Henry convened a meeting in Worms where German bishops loyal to him labeled Gregory a "false monk" who was no longer worthy of the office of pope. Gregory, in turn, excommunicated Henry - this had the effect of making all of the oaths sworn to Henry were no longer valid.

Henry couldn't have been in a worse position - enemies at home would use this to ensure his permanent removal from power and all he could do was seek forgiveness from the Pope Gregory. He reached Gregory at Canossa, a stronghold belonging to the countess of Tuscany, while he was already on his way to Germany for the election of a new emperor. Dressed in the poor clothing of a penitent, Henry begged for forgiveness. Gregory, however, was not ready to give in easily. He made Henry stand barefoot in the snow for three days until he allowed Henry to come in and kiss the papal ring.

Actually, Gregory wanted to make Henry wait longer and beg for forgiveness at the diet in Germany - an act that would be even more public and humiliating. However, by appearing so penitent Henry was doing the right thing because Gregory could not appear to be too unforgiving. Nevertheless, by forcing Henry to beg forgiveness at all he effectively demonstrated to the world that the religious leaders had authority over secular leaders.

2) In 1096, during the First Crusade, the Jewish community of Speyer was massacred.

3) In 1526 at the Diet of Speyer, interim toleration of Lutheran teaching and worship is decreed. In 1529 at another Diet of Speyer, the Lutheran states of the empire protest against the anti-Reformation resolutions (hence the term Protestantism.)

Our walking tour began as a trek toward the famous Romanesque Cathedral of St. Mary and St. Stephen also known as Kaiserdom (construction beginning in 1025).










It was the largest building in Christendom when completed in 1061. Helmut Kohl liked to bring international guests here -- including Bill Clinton and George Bush senior.

Our first view of the Cathedral was from a distance. Then a side view, followed by a close-up of the Garden of Gethsemane Monument in the churchyard.





Next is the beautiful front view. In front of the cathedral is the Domnapf (1490), a stone basin that was filled with wine at the induction of a new bishop. Then just up the steps to the porch like area, I videoed a statue of the king Henry IV.











The interior was outstanding and views include the altar and the pipe organ.





















Downstairs is a crypt where German royalty rests -- including the famous Henry IV.












The church is now Catholic, but there is a Lutheran Museum “next door.” And down the street is an impressive Lutheran Church Dreifaltigkeitskirche (Trinity Church), which dates from 1701-1717. The baroque interior was very beautiful and unique. Multi-balconies. The decorative organ was placed over the altar to indicate that music was central to the Lutheran church and worship. The pulpit, situated on the side of the church had a carved pelican on top of the canopy. The bird was feeding its young from the blood from its breast, signifying Christ’s sacrifice of blood. The pews were situated like doubles, with pairs facing each other. The purpose of this arrangement was to allow people to face the front altar, and then when the sermon started, to switch around to face the pulpit.

Then we concentrated on the exterior of the church. An independent bell tower structure (right) was part of the church complex.

On the main thoroughfare, the city constructed a monument of what appeared to be a wandering stranger that should be taken in. At the base were German words for Hebrews 13:14. A fountain graced the city square where the beautiful Rathaus stood out prominently. Naturally, there was a McDonalds. As we left historic Speyer I stopped for a shot at the old city wall, which at one time stood at the banks of the meandering Rhine River.







Although it was raining. a number of us Circlers joined GCT this afternoon for an optional Vineyard Jamboree, a tour through the scenic German countryside to Freinsheim, in the heart of the Rhine-Palatine wine region. We rode in a horse-drawn covered wagon at a leisurely pace, getting a wonderful view of the vineyard landscapes in this part of Germany. We had a little sing-along as we drank locally produced wine. Afterwards we enjoyed coffee and cake at the winemaker’s home, the Weingut Kreuzhof. After refreshments we had an opportunity to buy wine directly from the winemaker -- Riesling white wine for three euro per bottle! Then a brief walk over to the Freinsheim Altstadt.

As our ship sailed down the Rhine we passed Worms, not far from Speyer. On the video I have a picture of the historic Cathedral of Worms that hosted the meeting, the Diet of Worms, where Luther defended himself against the Holy Roman Emperor. That event in 1521 helped change the face of predominately Catholic Europe by the Protestant Reformation that followed. The original schedule GCT Rhine/Mosel cruise had Worms as a designated stop, but this had been recently changed to the city of Speyer.

A young energetic magician provided that evening our entertainment in the lounge. He made extensive use of audience participation. On the video, he is doing magic with Bernice’s ring. Later on the magician performed magic with a female assistant and a guest from Oklahoma. Somehow, under cover, he managed to remove a jacket from the guest and place it under the ropes of a completely bound woman. Good show!



GO ON TO 2006 RHINE & MOSEL RIVERS PART II

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

2006 Rhine & Mosel Rivers II Bernkastel, Trier & Luxembourg

Day 7, March 22, Wednesday RIVER CRUISING/BOPPARD/RHEINFELS CASTLE

Today was to be a greatly rewarding experience -- to see magnificent castles along what could be called “castle alley.” Many of the castles were "robber-baron" castles, extortion stops — built by princes back when there were 350 independent little states in what is now Germany. Towns grew rich when the merchants had paid their duty. Along this stretch, there were customs stops about every six miles. I videotaped quite a few of the majestic castles and included map sketches of the Rhine to help identify them by name.

The powerful Rhine has long been treacherous to navigate. Boats generally pass on the right. Since downstream shipscan't stop or maneuver as freely, upstream boats are expected to do the tricky do-si-do work. Large triangular signals, posted before troublesome blind bends in the river, warn of oncoming ships. Each triangle covers a segment of the bend — the lowest triangle being nearest.


















They warn of approaching ships. If the bottom side of a triangle is lit, that sector is empty. But if the left side is lit, there's an oncoming ship in that sector.The most dangerous bend in the river swings around a rocky bluff called the Loreley. Because of reefs just upstream, many ships never made it safely past the Loreley — and the rocky cliff remains steeped in myth. Sailors blamed their misfortune on a Fräulein — so wundarbar — whose long blonde hair almost covered her body.

This legendary siren flirted and sang her distracting song from this rock. Located near the rock is a statue of the famous lady. To help us visualize the flirty lady, Rolf donned a woman’s dress and blond wig and paraded around the lounge.

Just down river from the Loreley is the pleasant town of St. Goar, founded in the 6th century by a monk famous for his hospitality. According to legend, early sailors would stop here for a rest and a prayer of thanks after surviving the seductive and treacherous Loreley.



Rheinfels castle sits like a dead pit bull above St. Goar. Once the biggest and mightiest castle on the Rhine, Rheinfels rumbles with ghosts from its hard-fought past. While it withstood a siege of 28,000 French troops in 1692, the French finally destroyed it a century later. Today this hollow but fascinating shell offers the best hands-on ruined castle experience on the river.





The Debussy docked at a charming city of Boppard (map), affectionatelyknown as the “pearl of the Rhine.” Because of its importance as a cultural and historic center for the middle Rhine region, this area has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Church St. Severin was magnificent both inside and out. Its twin towers date to the 13th century.





Excellent wine has been produced here on the surrounding slopes for the best part of 2000 years, as vines were introduced here by the Romans, who also left impressive archeological remains that witness to thetown’s former importance. I concentrated on the ruins from a 4th century Roman fort here.

In the afternoon (2:45 pm), we loaded up in buses for a visit to Rheinfels Castle. Rheinfels, the largest ruined castle on the Rhine, provides a wealth of information regarding the art of fortification, particularly during the Late Renaissance period. It became the family seat of Count Dieter V of Katzenelnbogen and the scene of lively cultural activities. The castle was built it in 1245. In the 16th and 17th centuries the Hessian landgraves converted the building to form both a residence and a fortress. From the ramparts there was an excellent view of neighboring Burgmaus Castle. Rheinfels stood impregnable against a siege by French troops in 1692, but was later partially destroyed by the French Revolutionary Army in 1797.

Our three GCT tour guides caught our attention with a historical skit. We visited the ruins and the castle museum, which is full of historic exhibits and includes an excellent model reconstruction of the original castle. The huge wine cellar with an immense barrel vault was being visited by students so I caught them on video as they exited. The subterranean passages of the fortress were also highly impressive.

After dinner in the lounge our three guides performed a song that led us in a game of “nasty questions,” and they were nasty. We were divided into groups for the competition with the leading three groups performed against each other for the final prize. If our group would have been in the final three, I was all set to introduce our act with an impersonation of Rolf. “Ladies and gentlemen (brush back hair) we have 19 optional tours for your enjoyment, but I do not recommend any of them. However, you may still participate in our other great possibilities, like take a train to Vienna, or tube down the Mosel with the captain, or watch our lovely ladies do their chorus line routine... I give you the No-Brainers...” But fate (and low test scores) dictated otherwise.

Day 8, March 23, Thursday CRUISE THE MOSEL/BERNKASTEL

Our day started with scenic sailing on the Mosel River. Then our ship docked at Bernkastel, one of the prettiest towns in the Mosel Valley. Actually, Bernkastel is two towns, its sister town, Kues, sits on the opposite bank of the Mosel. I started the video with a shot of the Debussy and then across the river to the Burg Landshut, a castle overlooking Bernkastel.

Bishop Heinrich von Finstigen built the castle in 1277. His successor extended and rebuilt parts of it, which later became a residence of the Archbishop of Trier. A fire in 1692 reduced the castle to ruins, but a cafe here now utilizes the site.

Since we were on the Kues side of the river, we had to cross over the bridge to Bernkastel. From the bridge













I videoed St. Michael’s Church. Its tower originally belonged to the town’s defenses, and the church itself was begun in the 14th century. .





















We walked past the church to a square with an interesting fountain, where our guide gave a brief talk. We proceeded down Moselstr to another fountain, the Fountain of Bears on Graacher Str.









From here we walked past half-timbered buildings to the Market Square and the beautiful Renaissance style Rathaus.






















The buildings around the square present perfect examples of medieval German domestic architecture. In the foreground of the video is the Fountain of St. Michael. Stocks attached to one of the buildings reminded us punishment meted out in an earlier time.


















We stepped outside the old city walls to observe the grape plants growing up the steep incline and facing the sunshine. The surface slate radiated warmth for the plants as well as to enhance the distinctive taste of the Mosselle wines. In front of us Graacher’s Tor and the street we had just been on leading out of the city.

This gate was formerly part of the 13th century fortifications. Our walk continued on the Hinterm Grabben outside the city to The Doctorkeller. Here we entered an underground passageway that led to a big wine cellar. Chairs were set up for our “red dots” to relax and sample various tasty Mosel wines. We were given an opportunity to purchase bottles of the locally produced wines, but I waited and purchased some Lauerburg Riesling Spatlese (1999) for 4 euro instead of 10 euro from a nearby wine merchant. After returning to the Debussy, I settled down in the lounge with a nice hot chocolate (free and available anytime) and looked out for a parting glance of Bernkastel.

Day 9, March 24, Friday TRIER (TREVES)


Today we toured the beautiful town of Trier (map), the oldest town in Germany. There were settlements here in the third millennium before Christ, and the Roman Emperor Augustus founded a thriving city here in 15 B.C. It evolved into one of the leading cities of the empire and was promoted to Roma Secunda, “a second Rome” north of the Alps.

Fittingly, we started our morning tour by passing the old Roman bridge (Lower left on map), which had served as a river crossing since the 2nd century,




















... and then stopping at the palatial Kaisertherme (Imperial Baths). The bath complex consists of hot-water baths, a huge hall housing a semicircular pool, and two smaller pools. Our first area of exploration was the east apse of the caldarium, which in the 11th century was turned into a fortification and in the 12th century converted into a corner bastion of the medieval city fortification. From here we went down to the basement to walk a vast, labyrinthine network of corridors constructed to provide maintenance access for the heating system. The extent of the passages gave some idea of the backbreaking slave labor necessary for the system.

Our tour bus now took us over to the imposing Porta Nigra (“Black Gate”), a towering Roman gateway built around A.D. 200.

This is the largest surviving city gate from ancient Roman times, and for the empire it served not only as a means of protection but also as a symbol of strength and power. The first view on the gate on the video is from the city; the second from within the gate, and the third from outside the city. The building really is not black. The name reflects the pollution stain that covers the lighter stone.

From here we continued our city walk, pausing at the House of Three Magi. (Dreikonigenhaus on the city map). This beautiful highly decorative building dates from the first half of the 13th century and represents the style of old dwelling towers as can be seen at Regensburg and in some Italian cities.













Our assigned meeting place for red dots was at the Main Market, one of the most magnificent squares in all of Germany. Here we admired the central St. Peter’s Fountain built in 1595, built by the Renaissance sculptor Hans Hoffmann. The spiritual message symbolizes the four cardinal virtues of Justice (sword and scale), Fortitude (a broken column), Temperance (wine and water), and Wisdom (snake and mirror).

END OF TAPE ONE (30 minutes)




We returned to our ship for lunch and were allowed free time to further explore Trier map). The GCT shuttle service dropped me off at the same station so I started with the Courtyard of Simeon’s Collegiate church and the cloisters built next to Porta Nigra. The college courtyard is the oldest existing two-story cloister in Germany. On the video is an illustration of Porta Nigra as Simeon’s Church about 1660, which shows the Porta when it had been transformed into a double church. When Napoleon came this way, he ordered all the architectural changes to be removed and the original roman core restored (1804-1817).

Another claim to fame for Trier is the city’s status as the birthplace of Karl Marx (Karl-Marx-Haus on Brockenstrasse in the Old Town). Although I did not go to the birthplace I did video the house on Simeonstrasse where Marx had lived.(the dwelling in the center), according to our city guide.

On the other side of Market square stood a church sandwiched between houses that our guide referred to as The Market Church (photo right). The formal title is St. Gangolf’s Church and it dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries. The first view is the actual front of the church (with an indented statue of Christ). The second is a side view where the church rises behind the houses on the market. Two stories were added to imposing Gothic tower around 1500. The third view (after a panning of the Market Square buildings, including the commanding Gothic Steipe) is of the opulently decorated baroque portal from 1732 with the statue of St. Gangolf.

Leaving the Market Square and heading down Dietrichstrasse I visited the Frankenturm (Tower of Franco), built in the twelfth century. This “tower” is typical of the fortified stone houses built by wealthy merchants during the Romanesque period. Named for its 14th century resident, Franko von Senheim, the tower contains the medieval family’s living quarters. I zoomed in on the Great Hall window of the Tower.

Constantine the Great lived in Trier for years at a time. The vast brick Aula Palatina, also known as the Basilica and used as a church, dates from the time of Constantine (310 AD).












The huge hall that remains (believed to be the throne room) gives some idea of the grandeur of the original palace. The interior is overwhelming with undivided space has gigantic dimensions. The central heating was installed below the floor and heated by five furnaces still visible. Today the basilica serves as the main Protestant church in the city.








The nearby Roter Turm, or Red Tower, built in 1647 and reconstructed in 1968 serves as the bell tower for the Protestant church. It is considered one of the best creations of the late Manneristic style. Between the bell tower and the Basilica stood the Gate to the Electoral Palace.


















My attention was then drawn to the beautiful 13th century Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche), the first example of the French Gothic in Germany and constructed 1235-1260 with the spirit of the late Romanesque style. Immediately across from the church was the Kesselstatt Palace commissioned by the baron of Kesselstatt in 1740-1745.Next to the Liebfrauenkirche, and connected by a narrow passage way was St. Peter’s Cathedral, which represents one of the largest early Christian examples of dual church buildings. Parts of this impressive cathedral date to the fifth century. The cathedral is a weighty and sturdy edifice with small round windows, rough stonework, and asymmetrical towers, as much a fortress as a church. The interior is also unique, combining baroque furnishings with gothic vaulting and archways. The treasury contains the alleged seamless robe of Christ; so fragile it was last displayed in 1959.







Instead of taking the shuttle back to the ship, I decided to walk because this would allow me to see the old city walls up close and to see more architecturally pleasing buildings on Nordaleestrasse. That evening GCT had scheduled a folklore group to perform in the lounge. Among the numbers was one that had them flying. The evening closed with audience participation and Bernice joined in the fun.

Day 10, March 25, Saturday LUXEMBOURG/ TRABEN-TRARBACH

This morning I joined an optional day tour to Luxembourg (map), the tiny nation that whose territory comprises less than 1,000 square miles. The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is a constitutional monarchy located between Belgium, France, and Germany. Here, the everyday spoken language is Letzebuergesch, which symbolizes the national identity of the people.





First our motor coach took us to see the Battle of the Bulge Cemetery. German forces occupied Luxembourg in May of 1940, and its liberation (primarily by American troops) began in September of 1944. The Battle of the Bulge began with Hitler’s desperate attack through the Ardennes to attempt to drive out the Allied forces. The resulting battle, called “the greatest Americanbattle of the Second World War” by Winston Churchill, raged here from the 16th of December 1944 through the 28th of January 1945 (map).

200 men from the 10th British Corps were killed in this action, the U.S. (8,447 killed, 46,170 wounded, 20,905 missing or imprisoned) and Germans (10,749 killed, 34,439 wounded, 32,487 missing or imprisoned). All suffered tremendous losses. The German casualties were buried in a nearby cemetery. At this American cemetery long rows of white crosses (and some Jewish stars of David) reminded us the great sacrifices of those who paid the ultimate price. Here rest 5,076 solders of the Third Army. The rain added to the somber mood. George Patton who had led (prematurely) men into battle here died in an automobile accident in December of 1945. As he requested he was buried with his men (photo and marker to the right), although the gravesite was moved to a separate area here to accommodate the many visitors.

We drove on to the city of Luxembourg and entered the Altstadt via F.D. Roosevelt viaduct (map).

The oldest part of the city that we visited is actually on a high plateau whose steep cliffs plunge into the beautifully landscaped valleys of the Alzette River. Our walking tours led by local guides started at the Place de la Constitution(#30)












... and headed to the Cathedral of Norte-Dame (#51) or Cathedral to the Blessed Virgin (1613-1621) with its richly decorated portal of baroque style.












The interior with nice stained glass windows had a nice atmosphere.






















Our guide spent considerable time at the Grand Duchess Charlotte Memorial. Apparently she was well like in Luxembourg and well respected worldwide during World War II. She became a close friend of FDR while in exile during the war.

Close to the memorial was the “residence” of the Prime Minister, a kind of Downing Street site. Only here, this was more like an office with the PM residing elsewhere.




From here we went to the Grand Ducal Palace, or the Palais of the Grand Duke of Luxembourg.

The oldest part dates 1572, the middle part from 1741-43, in baroque style but transformed into Renaissance style in 1891. Note the guard in the guardhouse with an automatic weapon.




Then to the Place d’Armes, also named “Parlour of the City,” completed in 1671 where we admired the City Palace or Cercle municipal, with the seat of the tourist office (the big red “I” on the map). Our lunch was in a second story restaurant that afforded a nice view of the Place d’Armes.
















At this juncture I added a picture of a famous artwork we saw in Luxembourg. The statue has the enormous body of a woman in the most eccentric colors, created by Niki de Saint Phalle.




















I sought out the Congregational Church, built 1739-1794 with a richly decorated portal of baroque style. Fortunately the church was open. The stained glass windows were exceptionally beautiful, something like the Pre-Raphaelite quality. I noticed a poster promoting the anniversary of Pietistic Philip Spener. Time was up, so I ambled over to our waiting bus at Place de la Constitution (picture).

As we toured Luxembourg, the nonparticipants sailed down the Mosel to Traben-Trarbach a central location on the Mosel, halfway between Koblenz and Trier, and headquarters of the regional wine trade. Our motor coach caught up with the docked ship (map). Aboard the Debussy I videoed the 14th century Grevenburg Castle on the Trarbach (east) side of the river, as well as the waterfront of Trarbach.






The next slated activity was a brief walking tour that took us over the bridge to the Trarbach Bridge Gate (1898), an example of Art Nouveau design.














Later on we came across the romantic Art Nouveau Hotel Bellevue, designed in 1903 by noted architect Bruno Moehring.










GO ON TO 2006 RHINE & MOSEL RIVERS PART III