Day 11, Thursday, February 19:
Overland to Agra/Fatehpur Sikri (Since the Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays, we moved that monument to today)
After another very complete breakfast, we began our journey overland toward Agra (map). Along the highway we encountered a number of stone “factories.” Jay had the bus driver pull over so we could acquaint ourselves with the carved stonework the area is so famously associated with. We walked around the Nirankar Sand Stone Industries business where workmen were busy applying their chiseling skills. The craftsmanship was amazing. I zoomed in on the business across the street to capture more of the fine stonework. Our tour bus is in the foreground.
After lunch at Bharatpur, we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, the mysterious ghost city founded by the Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great in the late 16th century and capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585. Although architecturally magnificent, the city suffered from a water shortage and was abandoned shortly after Akbar's death. The city occupies a sandstone ridge, and the area around it is enclosed within a 7-mile-long wall. We strolled about the fort and palace. See also Eyewitness pp. 180-183.
This deserted red sandstone city was built by the Great Mughal Emperor Akbar as his capital and palace in the late 16th century. It was abandoned soon after it was built when the local wells went dry and it remains today in much the same condition that it was over 300 years ago. It is complete with palaces and mosques and used to be a town larger than London when it was originally constructed. Now it is an extraordinary place to explore, with its buildings in near perfect condition.
The buildings of Fatehpur Sikri show a synthesis of various regional schools of architectural craftsmanship such as Gujarati and Bengali. This was because indigenous craftsmen from various regions were used for the construction of the buildings. Influences from Hindu and Jain architecture are seen hand in hand with Islamic elements. The building material predominantly used is red sandstone, quarried from the same rocky outcrop on which it is situated.
We started off viewing the Diwan-i-Am – Hall of Public Audience, a building typology found in many Mughal cities where the ruler meets the general public (extreme right)). In this case it is a pavilion like multi-bayed rectangular structure fronting a large open space. Celebrations were held here. Women viewed from the pavilion while the entire other areas were used by men. Next we approached the Diwan-i-Khas – Hall of Private Audience (moving upward, top of the map),famous for its central pillar with thirty -six voluted brackets supporting a circular platform for Akbar. In the video women tourists are sitting in the archway. Across the court-yard is the Panch Mahal, a five- storied palatial structure. The bottom floor has 176 intricately carved columns. Then there is the Ankh Michauli, the treasury.
We entered the Diwan-i-Khas (on top of map again) to view the highly refined artwork on the central column. Jay led us over to the mammoth chessboard (just a bit lower on the map with the cross shape)l where human figures were used as chess pieces and moved at the emperor's will. From here we walked (left on map) through the Khwabgah, the Emperor’s private sleeping quarters.
Tonight we viewed a sight unique in the entire world: the Taj Mahal See also Eyewitness, pp. 172-175 and 200-201.
This grand edifice, built by Shah Jahan (Picture on the video) from 1631 to 1653 enshrines the remains of his Queen Mumtaz Mahal (Picture on the video). Like most Mughal tombs, basic elements are Persian in origin. Mughal in general was a style that combined elements from Persian, Turkish, Indian, and Islamic architectural styles.
This incredible place is everything that has been said about it and more. Taking 22 years and 20,000 men to build, the white marble was quarried 200 miles away and was transported to the site by a fleet of 1000 elephants. Though the Taj appears to be amazingly perfect from almost any angle, it is the close-up marble inlay work that is really astounding. We had ample time to view and to be mesmerized by this outstanding piece of architecture.
Its central dome is fifty-eight feet in diameter and rises to a height of 213 feet. Four subsidiary domed chambers flank it. The four graceful, slender minarets are 162.5 feet each. The minarets display the Taj Mahal's penchant for symmetry. These towers are designed as working minarets, a traditional element of mosques as a place for a muezzin to call the Islamic faithful to prayer. Each minaret is effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring the tower. The entire mausoleum (inside as well as outside) is decorated with inlaid design of flowers and calligraphy using precious gems such as agate and jasper. The main archways, chiseled with passages from the Holy Qur’an and the bold scrollwork of flowery pattern, give a captivating charm to its beauty. The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan; their actual graves are at a lower level. The central domed chamber and four adjoining chambers include many walls and panels of Islamic decoration.
The mausoleum is a part of a vast complex comprising of a main gateway, an elaborate garden, a mosque (to the left), a guest house (to the right), and several other palatial buildings. The Taj is at the farthest end of this complex, with the river Jamuna behind it. The large garden contains four reflecting pools dividing it at the center. Each of these four sections is further subdivided into four sections and then each into yet another four sections. Like the Taj, the garden elements serve like Arabesque, standing on their own and also constituting the whole.
Security was tight and armed guards were everywhere. When we passed through the scanners we had to take everything out of our pockets. Gary had a newspaper so he was taken out of line for further scrutiny. I left my camcorder on the bus because so much was off limits. Jay gave us free time to explore the famous site and pointed out a meeting place where we were to gather at 5pm. I walked down the garden walkway to the entrance area and covered my shoes with booties provided earlier by Jay. I entered the white domed marble mausoleum, and found it quite dark inside, and moved slowly around the central screened off area. The octagonal marble screen or jali that borders the cenotaphs is made from eight marble panels. Each panel has been carved through with intricate pierce work. The remaining surfaces have been inlaid with semiprecious stones in extremely delicate detail, forming twining vines, fruits and flowers. Muslim tradition forbids elaborate decoration of graves and hence Mumtaz and Shah Jahan are laid in a relatively plain crypt beneath the inner chamber with their faces turned right and towards Mecca.
We then continue to Agra with accommodations at the Jaypee Palace. Jay said this would be the most luxurious hotel we would have on the trip. Set amidst 25 acres of landscaped gardens, the Jaypee Palace combined traditional charm with modern amenities. With 350 guest rooms, the property featured a restaurant, cocktail lounge, swimming pool, and sauna. The place was really huge with a number of elaborately landscaped courtyards. Reaching our room from the reception desk was quite a walk. I took a video from our balcony of one of the courtyards below.Food at the hotel was the best ever. Gary and Don joined me at the table.
Day 12, Friday, February 20:
Agra Fort
In the morning, after a comprehensive breakfast, we visited the sprawling Agra Fort on the bank of the Yamuna River. This immense fort and palace was the seat of power for four generations of Mughal emperors; they ruled all of northern India from the early 16th century until the consolidation by British colonial rule in the early 1800s. Agra Fort's architecture is an almost perfect fusion between military might and lavish beauty. See also Eyewitness pp. 168-177
It is the most important fort in India and contained the largest state treasury and mint. It was visited by foreign ambassadors, travellers and the highest dignitaries who participated in the making of history in India. Realizing the importance of its central situation, Akbar decided to make it his capital and arrived in Agra in 1558. His historian, Abdul Fazal, recorded that this was a brick fort known as ‘Badalgarh’. It was in a ruined condition and Akbar had it rebuilt with red sandstone. Architects laid the foundation and it was built with bricks in the inner core with sandstone on external surfaces. Some 1444000 builders worked on it for eight years, completing it in 1573. Shah Jehan added the impressive quarters and the mosque while Aurangzeb added the outer ramparts.
This was also a site of one of the battles during the Indian rebellion of 1857, which caused the end of the British East India Company's rule in India, and led to a century of direct rule of India by Britain.
Its central dome is fifty-eight feet in diameter and rises to a height of 213 feet. Four subsidiary domed chambers flank it. The four graceful, slender minarets are 162.5 feet each. The minarets display the Taj Mahal's penchant for symmetry. These towers are designed as working minarets, a traditional element of mosques as a place for a muezzin to call the Islamic faithful to prayer. Each minaret is effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring the tower. The entire mausoleum (inside as well as outside) is decorated with inlaid design of flowers and calligraphy using precious gems such as agate and jasper. The main archways, chiseled with passages from the Holy Qur’an and the bold scrollwork of flowery pattern, give a captivating charm to its beauty. The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan; their actual graves are at a lower level. The central domed chamber and four adjoining chambers include many walls and panels of Islamic decoration.
The mausoleum is a part of a vast complex comprising of a main gateway, an elaborate garden, a mosque (to the left), a guest house (to the right), and several other palatial buildings. The Taj is at the farthest end of this complex, with the river Jamuna behind it. The large garden contains four reflecting pools dividing it at the center. Each of these four sections is further subdivided into four sections and then each into yet another four sections. Like the Taj, the garden elements serve like Arabesque, standing on their own and also constituting the whole.
Security was tight and armed guards were everywhere. When we passed through the scanners we had to take everything out of our pockets. Gary had a newspaper so he was taken out of line for further scrutiny. I left my camcorder on the bus because so much was off limits. Jay gave us free time to explore the famous site and pointed out a meeting place where we were to gather at 5pm. I walked down the garden walkway to the entrance area and covered my shoes with booties provided earlier by Jay. I entered the white domed marble mausoleum, and found it quite dark inside, and moved slowly around the central screened off area. The octagonal marble screen or jali that borders the cenotaphs is made from eight marble panels. Each panel has been carved through with intricate pierce work. The remaining surfaces have been inlaid with semiprecious stones in extremely delicate detail, forming twining vines, fruits and flowers. Muslim tradition forbids elaborate decoration of graves and hence Mumtaz and Shah Jahan are laid in a relatively plain crypt beneath the inner chamber with their faces turned right and towards Mecca.
We then continue to Agra with accommodations at the Jaypee Palace. Jay said this would be the most luxurious hotel we would have on the trip. Set amidst 25 acres of landscaped gardens, the Jaypee Palace combined traditional charm with modern amenities. With 350 guest rooms, the property featured a restaurant, cocktail lounge, swimming pool, and sauna. The place was really huge with a number of elaborately landscaped courtyards. Reaching our room from the reception desk was quite a walk. I took a video from our balcony of one of the courtyards below.Food at the hotel was the best ever. Gary and Don joined me at the table.
Day 12, Friday, February 20:
Agra Fort
In the morning, after a comprehensive breakfast, we visited the sprawling Agra Fort on the bank of the Yamuna River. This immense fort and palace was the seat of power for four generations of Mughal emperors; they ruled all of northern India from the early 16th century until the consolidation by British colonial rule in the early 1800s. Agra Fort's architecture is an almost perfect fusion between military might and lavish beauty. See also Eyewitness pp. 168-177
It is the most important fort in India and contained the largest state treasury and mint. It was visited by foreign ambassadors, travellers and the highest dignitaries who participated in the making of history in India. Realizing the importance of its central situation, Akbar decided to make it his capital and arrived in Agra in 1558. His historian, Abdul Fazal, recorded that this was a brick fort known as ‘Badalgarh’. It was in a ruined condition and Akbar had it rebuilt with red sandstone. Architects laid the foundation and it was built with bricks in the inner core with sandstone on external surfaces. Some 1444000 builders worked on it for eight years, completing it in 1573. Shah Jehan added the impressive quarters and the mosque while Aurangzeb added the outer ramparts.
This was also a site of one of the battles during the Indian rebellion of 1857, which caused the end of the British East India Company's rule in India, and led to a century of direct rule of India by Britain.
What an impressive sight! The outer walls are seventy feet high. We started with the Amar Singh Gate, also known as the “Lahore Gate.” Tourists enter via the Lahore Gate so named because it faces Lahore, now in Pakistan. Monkeys clamored about the entrance as if inviting photography. After going through the gate we walked over a ramp and entered the Great Courtyard. The fort can be more accurately described as a walled palatial city.
Before us was the Jehangiri Mahal, a stunning example of Mughal architecture at its best. Built between 1565-69, it has an impressive façade facing an open court to the west. It has an arched portal with two beautiful jharokhas, a series of ornamental arches and an octagonal tower on its either side. There is a complex arrangement of rooms, halls, corridors, galleries and verandahs in the palace, around a square central courtyard. Here Jay gave an introductory lecture. I taped the intricate artwork in the corner of the Harem Courtyard. Turning around I faced the concubine quarters. The Queen’s bedroom is located on the lower right. From the Fort we could see the moat below (with monkeys on ledges above it) and the famous Taj Mahal in the misty distant background. Between was the River Yamuna.
We proceeded to the Khas Mahal. Built by Shah Jehan between 1631-40, 'Khas Mahal' or 'Aramgah-i-Muqaddar' has river on the one side and Anguri Bagh on the other. Built for the two favorite daughters of Shah Jehan, Jahanara and Roshanara, it has a beautiful tank in front with fountains, white marble pavilions and open courts. The central hall or baradari and the adjoining colonnade or portico is almost of same size. The arched recesses of the main hall lead to the side rooms. The richly ornamented ceilings of the palace are flat and the complex has stylishly carved and molded brackets. I took a video of the Summan Burj on the riverside and a jutting extension from the fort below the Summan Burj.
Continuing on we approached the many-pillared Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) A result of earliest manifestation of Shah Jehan's love for marble, Diwan-I-Am or Hall of Public Audience was the place where the emperor addressed the general public as well as the nobility. Constructed between 1631-40, it is situated close to Machchhi Bhawan. The huge assembly hall measuring 201' by 67' has flat roof and two arched red sandstone gateways to the north and south. The façade has an arcade with nine bold arches and the hall is divided into three aisles. Though the building was constructed in red sandstone, yet it had been plastered with white shell plaster to resemble the white marble. The indented area where the Emperor made decisions is to the right. From the Diwan-i-Am the Emperor could watch elephant fights and address the people.
To the northwest (and above the courtyard building) can be seen the beautiful domes of the Nagina Massid.
Nagina Masjid or the Gem Mosque is made up of pure white marble and was meant for the personal use of the emperor. Built between 1631-40 in the northwestern corner of the Machchhi Bhawan, it has a marble paved court enclosed by walls to the north, south and east and the prayer chamber on the west. The prayer chamber is also made up of marble and has three domes on its top. The mosque has a three-arched façade with the cusps and supported on slender piers as its entrance. The arch in the middle is larger and has nine cusps and ones on the either sides have seven cusps only.
Having come full circle, we were now back to the courtyard of the Diwan-i-Aam. Thus ended our tour of Agra Fort.
For those of us who wanted to tour the modern Monte Carlo Mall in Agra and take in the optional show special could sign up with Jay. Our evening was still young. We had to pass through security screening at the entrance of the mall. Once inside Alyssa and Johanna had their hands and arms tattooed (which would wear off in a few weeks). There are two distinct tattoo cultures in India. The most prominent is from the Hindu community that is based on a caste system even though this system is declining. These tattoos usually signify the subordinate position of women from within this social structure. Certain tattoos on Indian women can also represent fertility or to ward off bad spirits. Today young women are often encouraged to be tattooed, as it was believed to add to their attractiveness. There are many different tattoo symbols within the Hindu tradition such as: lotus blossoms (associated with happiness), swastika (an ancient symbol which is opposite to the Nazi swastika) and dots (believed to ward off the evil eye).
I saw a McDonalds and strolled over there for the fun of it. The restaurant also had an outside exit that was protected by an armed security guard. Our main activity, however was to see the “India In Motion” production. This show featured the condensed history of India using 3D techniques (with glasses) and multi-sensory effects (seats that moved or swayed and special effects with a watery mist and blowing air). It was educational and fun. After the show we were ushered into a room equipped with devices to test our knowledge of Indian history and culture -- kinda like a pop (sneak) quiz. We were divided into two groups – male and female so we could compete as groups. Each individual would answer multiple-choice questions by selecting their answers on a push button. After each question we were given the correct answer and assigned points according to our responses. The men defeated the women. Then at the very end, we were informed of which individuals had the highest personal scores. Gary came in first and I came in second. After the show our group attended dinner together.
Day 13, Saturday, February 21:
Train to Jhansi/Overland to Khajuraho
Today we were scheduled to take the train Shatabdi Express for a two hour ride to Jhansi (map), a center of Bundela civilization. Jay had us place our luggage in the hallway early and instructed us that all suitcases must be locked or they would not be accepted on the train. Our driver dropped us off at the Fort Railroad Station. This memorable Raj building was constructed in 1891 as a stopping off point for colonial tourists visiting Agra’s monuments. The station was quite busy, accentuating the importance of rail travel to this country.
We arrived early, which gave us time to become acquainted with the street urchins that inhabited the station. These unkempt kids reminded me of characters right out of a Dickens novel. Gary distributed pieces of fruit and sample hotel toiletries, then took pictures of the delighted children. Some children were given ballpoint pens and immediately the items were put to work. One usually sees masses of pigeons at railway stations, but we witnessed a number of green birds.
When the train arrived we filed into our car, taking the assigned seats that Jay had reserved for us. Jay made sure everything was in order as we pulled out of the station.
The two-hour train ride went rather smoothly. Upon arriving at the railway station in Jhansi, I videoed the Jhansi railroad station. In the foreground a large cow stood in the middle of the street oblivious to the traffic around her.
An OAT tour bus was waiting for us and we found our new vehicle quite adequate. All we had to do was make some adjustments to the air-cooling monitors. In only minutes we came across a significant public monument. This monument represented Gandhi leading the march to progress in India. Immediately behind him was the figure of heroine Rani Lakshmi Bai who figured so prominently in the Revolt of 1857 that took place in the walled city located here in Jhansi.
The British attacked Jhansi in March 1858. Rani Jhansi with her faithful warriors decided not to surrender. The battle continued for about two weeks. Shelling on Jhansi was very fierce. In the Jhansi army women were also carrying ammunition and were supplying food to the soldiers.
Rani Lakshmi Bai was very active. In June, during the Revolt of 1857 against the British, a few men of the 12th native infantry seized the fort containing the treasure and magazine, and massacred the European officers of the garrison. Rani Lakshmi Bai put herself at the head of the rebels and died bravely in battle in Gwalior. She has been called India’s Joan of Arc. It was not until November 1858 that Jhansi was brought under British control.
A little further along we crossed the Betwa River where Jay told us to look off to the right to see a prominent cenotaph of Madhavarao. This palace was previously the Summer Palace of the Scindhias. Presently it is the training centre of the Intelligence Bureau of the Government of India Once the barracks of the proud British soldiers, the dormitories today are housed in double-stories
Our bus continued overland on the long and bumpy road to Alipura. I took a video out the front window as our bus passed an overloaded busload of passengers. Piling people on the top of buses was a common practice in India and those who chose such “seats” received half priced tickets. Jay instructed the bus to pull over at a small family farm along the highway. Here we observed an animal driven turnstile that was hooked to a water wheel drawing water from a well.
This family gave us samples of raw chickpeas. Many popular Indian dishes are made with chickpea flour, such as mirchi bajji and mirapakaya bajji telugu. In India unripe chickpeas are often picked out of the pod and eaten as a raw snack and the leaves are eaten as a green vegetable in salads. Chickpea flour is also used to make "Burmese tofu" which was first known among the Shan people of Burma. Mature chickpeas can be cooked and eaten cold in salads, cooked in stews, ground into a flour called gram flour (also known as besan and used primarily in Indian cuisine), ground and shaped in balls and fried as falafel. India is the world leader in chickpea production followed by Pakistan and Turkey.
Lunchtime found us in Alipura, a village of medieval palaces and temples built by Bundela rulers. Across the street from our Alipura palace “restaurant” was a Dhanushdhari Temple. Built in 18-19th century the state protected monument of Dhanushdhari temple is a classic example of Bundeli style. The idols of Rama and Sita are installed in the garbha-griha of the temple. I simply had to videotape this beautiful building from the side.
After lunch we continue overland via coach on the 3-hour drive to Khajuraho.
See Eyewitness pp. 236-238. Although remote and very quiet today, in the tenth century Khajuraho was the center of the thriving civilization of the Chandelas. The magnificent group of temples was built between the ninth and tenth centuries by the Chandela Dynasty, which dominated Central India at the time.
First, we had to check into our 5 star hotel in Khajuraho. A costumed Indian doorman greeted us at the door of our luxury Radisson Hotel.
Radisson Hotel Khajuraho enjoys a great location in Khajuraho, a vibrant combination of the old and new, of tradition and change. The hotel is just 1 km from Khajuraho city centre. The hotel features 90 rooms and suites with state of the art facilities and private balcony in all rooms.
Our included dinner was held in the hotel this evening at 7:30 pm. After such a busy and full day we went to bed early to rejuvenate.
Day 14, Sunday, February 22:
View erotic carvings of the Chandelas/Fly to Varanasi/Optional Ganges Evening Ceremony: Boat ride & dinner
After breakfast at our hotel, we filed into our waiting bus where Jay introduced us to our local guide of the day. Today we were to visit the east and west temple complexes that the Chandelas constructed. The erotic stone carvings here have come to symbolize the important role of love and prana energy in Hindu thought. British archeologists excavated these intricate stone carvings during colonial times, when they scandalized post-Victorian English sensibilities!
The remote location of Khajuraho meant that the temples were unharmed by Muslim invaders and as a result, the intricately fine carvings are in very good condition and are said to represent life in heaven. The majority of the temples were constructed in a sudden burst of creative and religious energy, between the mid-10th and 11th centuries. After ruling for about 500 years the Chandela dynasty fell to the might of Islam and consequently the religious centre of Khajuraho was abandoned. The temples remain as a reminder of a society that believed in the full enjoyment of life, with all the senses being a path to nirvana. Of the 85 original temples only 22 remain, but many are in very good condition and remarkably beautiful in design and architecture, including the Kandariya Mahadeva
We started our tour with the Western Group of temples, certainly the best known. The Kandariya Mahadeva temple is the largest and most ornate Hindu temple in the medieval temple group found at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh, India. It is considered one of the best examples of temples preserved from the medieval period in India Today is one of the most popular tourist destinations in India. The Kandariya Mahadeva was built by Vidyadhara arguably one of the greatest Chandela kings. The temple was built around 1050. The main spire or shikhara rises 31 m to depict Mount Meru, the holy mountain of Shiva and is surrounded by 84 miniature spires. I zoomed in on the steps and entrance (ardhamandapa) before turning to some of the 646 intricate stone carvings surrounding the temple. One carving that our guide singled out was that of a Hindu deity with an elephant head (Ganesha). I taped only samples of carvings from among those pointed out by our guide. One carving had a young man being crushed by an elephant’s foot because of his wrongdoing. Another featured a smiling elephant that was amused by an erotic scene in the next carving. After walking around the structure, we climbed up the steps and entered the actual sanctum (garbha griha) with a marble linga of the goddess Shiva.
The second temple we visited was the Chaunsat Yogini, the oldest surviving temple in the group (900 A.D.), and the sole granite temple dedicated to Goddess Kali. The name chaunsat (64) comes from the cells of 64 attendants (Yoginis) of Goddess Kali, while one belongs to the goddess herself. Today only 35 shrines of the original 65 shrines remain. . This temple we surveyed on our own.
The last temple we visited was the White Temple and the one most recently built. The guide pointed out that the three domes of this structure represented the harmony of the Hindu, Muslim and Buddhist traditions. Our group gathered under a tree by this temple until we had all been accounted for and then boarded our bus to observe the Eastern Temples.
The Eastern Temples are Jain temples and some of the temples are still used for worship. The main structure we found interesting here was the Parshvanatha Temple, a medium-sized building compared to the western group. It is the largest of the Jain temples and has an image of Parshvanatha, a Jain Tirthankara in the sanctum. The temple has been heavily renovated in this century.
Some of the best known non-erotic sculptures of Khajuraho are found here, particularly the lovely sura-sundaris (celestial beauties) – one applying make-up and another removing a thorn from her feet on the southern façade and yet another tying on ankle-bells on the northern façade.
Jain pilgrims may find rooms with beds here for their use. Earlier on our trip we had seen some of these men traveling single file along the highway to reach their next temple.
Jain monks and nuns practice strict asceticism and strive to make their current birth their last, thus ending their cycle of transmigration. The laity, who pursue less rigorous practices, strive to attain rational perception and to do as much good as possible and get closer to the goal of attaining freedom from the cycle of transmigration. Following strict ethics, the laity usually chooses professions that revere and protect life and totally avoid violent livelihoods.
We returned to the hotel 11:30 am, had our luggage out by 12 noon and met Jay in the lobby at 12:15 pm. Security at the airport was tight and the scanning took considerable time. Our flight to Varanasi was on a Jet Airways Boeing 737 and took around 40 minutes. The plane was of recent vintage and very comfortable. We were served mushroom sandwiches on white bread (with crust removed) and a lime/water drink.
The reception at the Radisson Hotel was great. A uniformed doorman greeted us. Cool drinks were served. The lobby area was attractive and the second floor food serving area (F Level) was visible above us.
The Radisson Hotel Varanasi is a five star hotel conveniently located in the heart of the main business district. It has modern architecture, warm hospitality and topnotch service. The Hotel has 116 fabulous rooms. All rooms are centrally air-conditioned with all modern facilities like mini bar, tea & coffee maker, electronic safe and door locks, hair dryer, ironing board, working desk. Advanced telephone systems with voicemail and in room High-Speed Wi-Fi Wireless Internet connectivity – which greatly pleased Gary.
Here we were in Varanasi, the holiest of Hindu cities. Known as Benares during British times, Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world, with a written history dating back more than 4,000 years. The city has an intense, almost palpable atmosphere of spiritual devotion, a feeling of an unending religious festival. Hundreds of temples propitiate the thousands of deities in the Hindu pantheon. Pilgrims from every part of this vast nation crowd the narrow streets and the riverside ghats. Many Hindus in the latter part of their lives wish to spend their retirement here. See also pp. 162-163 of Eyewitness.
Naturally I signed up for the optional $60 tour to witness the aarti ceremony on the Ganges. The day was coming to a close when our gang of 16 boarded our rickshaws. Gary and I, both rather large people, were privileged to have individual vehicles, which no doubt pleased the men who did the peddling. We rode by rickshaw through the bustling streets amid the sound of beeping horns. I was in the lead taxi, that is until we reached a security checkpoint. One of the guards grabbed my vehicle and forced us to stop. He shouted angrily at my driver. Another man came up and hit the driver in the face, but was restrained from further action by an armed soldier. I had no idea what was happening. As the stalemate continued, our other rickshaws passed by until Jay who was bringing up the rear interceded. At first he chewed out my driver (in his Indian language) and then convinced the security personnel to let us continue to the river. Later I asked Jay about the problem and he explained that my driver had been drinking and that was considered a major offense at this site. Anyway, we were allowed to continue and soon passed by St. Thomas Anglican Church, one of the few Christian churches here.
Christianity has had long and glorious relations with India. According to the legends, St. Thomas sailed to India from Eastern Asia in AD 52. He spent 12 years in India, the last eight of his life in Mylapore in Madras (now Chennai). Several shrines have been created in the places associated with him. Apart from this, the advent of Europeans in India from the 15th century onwards led to the mass influx of Christians and subsequent development of Christian worship places. Some of the churches of colonial India are comparable to the best in the world and are as much a part of the heritage of India as its ancient temples, yet I find it almost impossible to find any information about this historic church.
The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or Lendraprasad Ghat and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations in progress, and then return to Dasaswamedh and watch the evening aarti from the boat. That was our plan. We headed down the steep steps to the water below. This was the Ganges River:
The Ganges is a major river in the Indian subcontinent flowing east through the eponymous plains of northern India into Bangladesh. It begins in the central Himalayas, and drains into the Bay of Bengal through its vast delta in the Sunderbans. It has enjoyed a position of reverence for millennia among India's Hindus, by whom it is worshipped in its personified form as the goddess Ganga.
The Ganges and its tributaries drain a large – about one million square kilometers – and fertile basin that supports one of the world's highest-density human populations. It should be noted that almost half of the population of India proper live on one-third of the landscape within 500 km of the Himalayan range along the Gangetic plains.
In his book Discovery of India, Jawaharlal Nehru writes, ‘The Ganges, above all is the river of India, which has held India's heart captive and drawn uncounted millions to her banks since the dawn of history. The story of the Ganges, from her source to the sea, from old times to new, is the story of India's civilization and culture, of the rise and fall of empires, of great and proud cities, of adventures of man…”
Near the waterfront vendors sold prayer candles that when lit were set upon the water to drift. The evening air was filled with smoke that had been emitted from the worshipping priests.
View erotic carvings of the Chandelas/Fly to Varanasi/Optional Ganges Evening Ceremony: Boat ride & dinner
After breakfast at our hotel, we filed into our waiting bus where Jay introduced us to our local guide of the day. Today we were to visit the east and west temple complexes that the Chandelas constructed. The erotic stone carvings here have come to symbolize the important role of love and prana energy in Hindu thought. British archeologists excavated these intricate stone carvings during colonial times, when they scandalized post-Victorian English sensibilities!
The remote location of Khajuraho meant that the temples were unharmed by Muslim invaders and as a result, the intricately fine carvings are in very good condition and are said to represent life in heaven. The majority of the temples were constructed in a sudden burst of creative and religious energy, between the mid-10th and 11th centuries. After ruling for about 500 years the Chandela dynasty fell to the might of Islam and consequently the religious centre of Khajuraho was abandoned. The temples remain as a reminder of a society that believed in the full enjoyment of life, with all the senses being a path to nirvana. Of the 85 original temples only 22 remain, but many are in very good condition and remarkably beautiful in design and architecture, including the Kandariya Mahadeva
We started our tour with the Western Group of temples, certainly the best known. The Kandariya Mahadeva temple is the largest and most ornate Hindu temple in the medieval temple group found at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh, India. It is considered one of the best examples of temples preserved from the medieval period in India Today is one of the most popular tourist destinations in India. The Kandariya Mahadeva was built by Vidyadhara arguably one of the greatest Chandela kings. The temple was built around 1050. The main spire or shikhara rises 31 m to depict Mount Meru, the holy mountain of Shiva and is surrounded by 84 miniature spires. I zoomed in on the steps and entrance (ardhamandapa) before turning to some of the 646 intricate stone carvings surrounding the temple. One carving that our guide singled out was that of a Hindu deity with an elephant head (Ganesha). I taped only samples of carvings from among those pointed out by our guide. One carving had a young man being crushed by an elephant’s foot because of his wrongdoing. Another featured a smiling elephant that was amused by an erotic scene in the next carving. After walking around the structure, we climbed up the steps and entered the actual sanctum (garbha griha) with a marble linga of the goddess Shiva.
The second temple we visited was the Chaunsat Yogini, the oldest surviving temple in the group (900 A.D.), and the sole granite temple dedicated to Goddess Kali. The name chaunsat (64) comes from the cells of 64 attendants (Yoginis) of Goddess Kali, while one belongs to the goddess herself. Today only 35 shrines of the original 65 shrines remain. . This temple we surveyed on our own.
The last temple we visited was the White Temple and the one most recently built. The guide pointed out that the three domes of this structure represented the harmony of the Hindu, Muslim and Buddhist traditions. Our group gathered under a tree by this temple until we had all been accounted for and then boarded our bus to observe the Eastern Temples.
The Eastern Temples are Jain temples and some of the temples are still used for worship. The main structure we found interesting here was the Parshvanatha Temple, a medium-sized building compared to the western group. It is the largest of the Jain temples and has an image of Parshvanatha, a Jain Tirthankara in the sanctum. The temple has been heavily renovated in this century.
Some of the best known non-erotic sculptures of Khajuraho are found here, particularly the lovely sura-sundaris (celestial beauties) – one applying make-up and another removing a thorn from her feet on the southern façade and yet another tying on ankle-bells on the northern façade.
Jain pilgrims may find rooms with beds here for their use. Earlier on our trip we had seen some of these men traveling single file along the highway to reach their next temple.
Jain monks and nuns practice strict asceticism and strive to make their current birth their last, thus ending their cycle of transmigration. The laity, who pursue less rigorous practices, strive to attain rational perception and to do as much good as possible and get closer to the goal of attaining freedom from the cycle of transmigration. Following strict ethics, the laity usually chooses professions that revere and protect life and totally avoid violent livelihoods.
We returned to the hotel 11:30 am, had our luggage out by 12 noon and met Jay in the lobby at 12:15 pm. Security at the airport was tight and the scanning took considerable time. Our flight to Varanasi was on a Jet Airways Boeing 737 and took around 40 minutes. The plane was of recent vintage and very comfortable. We were served mushroom sandwiches on white bread (with crust removed) and a lime/water drink.
The reception at the Radisson Hotel was great. A uniformed doorman greeted us. Cool drinks were served. The lobby area was attractive and the second floor food serving area (F Level) was visible above us.
The Radisson Hotel Varanasi is a five star hotel conveniently located in the heart of the main business district. It has modern architecture, warm hospitality and topnotch service. The Hotel has 116 fabulous rooms. All rooms are centrally air-conditioned with all modern facilities like mini bar, tea & coffee maker, electronic safe and door locks, hair dryer, ironing board, working desk. Advanced telephone systems with voicemail and in room High-Speed Wi-Fi Wireless Internet connectivity – which greatly pleased Gary.
Here we were in Varanasi, the holiest of Hindu cities. Known as Benares during British times, Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world, with a written history dating back more than 4,000 years. The city has an intense, almost palpable atmosphere of spiritual devotion, a feeling of an unending religious festival. Hundreds of temples propitiate the thousands of deities in the Hindu pantheon. Pilgrims from every part of this vast nation crowd the narrow streets and the riverside ghats. Many Hindus in the latter part of their lives wish to spend their retirement here. See also pp. 162-163 of Eyewitness.
Naturally I signed up for the optional $60 tour to witness the aarti ceremony on the Ganges. The day was coming to a close when our gang of 16 boarded our rickshaws. Gary and I, both rather large people, were privileged to have individual vehicles, which no doubt pleased the men who did the peddling. We rode by rickshaw through the bustling streets amid the sound of beeping horns. I was in the lead taxi, that is until we reached a security checkpoint. One of the guards grabbed my vehicle and forced us to stop. He shouted angrily at my driver. Another man came up and hit the driver in the face, but was restrained from further action by an armed soldier. I had no idea what was happening. As the stalemate continued, our other rickshaws passed by until Jay who was bringing up the rear interceded. At first he chewed out my driver (in his Indian language) and then convinced the security personnel to let us continue to the river. Later I asked Jay about the problem and he explained that my driver had been drinking and that was considered a major offense at this site. Anyway, we were allowed to continue and soon passed by St. Thomas Anglican Church, one of the few Christian churches here.
Christianity has had long and glorious relations with India. According to the legends, St. Thomas sailed to India from Eastern Asia in AD 52. He spent 12 years in India, the last eight of his life in Mylapore in Madras (now Chennai). Several shrines have been created in the places associated with him. Apart from this, the advent of Europeans in India from the 15th century onwards led to the mass influx of Christians and subsequent development of Christian worship places. Some of the churches of colonial India are comparable to the best in the world and are as much a part of the heritage of India as its ancient temples, yet I find it almost impossible to find any information about this historic church.
The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or Lendraprasad Ghat and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations in progress, and then return to Dasaswamedh and watch the evening aarti from the boat. That was our plan. We headed down the steep steps to the water below. This was the Ganges River:
The Ganges is a major river in the Indian subcontinent flowing east through the eponymous plains of northern India into Bangladesh. It begins in the central Himalayas, and drains into the Bay of Bengal through its vast delta in the Sunderbans. It has enjoyed a position of reverence for millennia among India's Hindus, by whom it is worshipped in its personified form as the goddess Ganga.
The Ganges and its tributaries drain a large – about one million square kilometers – and fertile basin that supports one of the world's highest-density human populations. It should be noted that almost half of the population of India proper live on one-third of the landscape within 500 km of the Himalayan range along the Gangetic plains.
In his book Discovery of India, Jawaharlal Nehru writes, ‘The Ganges, above all is the river of India, which has held India's heart captive and drawn uncounted millions to her banks since the dawn of history. The story of the Ganges, from her source to the sea, from old times to new, is the story of India's civilization and culture, of the rise and fall of empires, of great and proud cities, of adventures of man…”
Near the waterfront vendors sold prayer candles that when lit were set upon the water to drift. The evening air was filled with smoke that had been emitted from the worshipping priests.
We loaded up in an arranged boat and sailed along to coastline to the Manmandir and Manikarnika Ghats where massive fires were turning bodies into ashes. Men could be seen in the light of the fires carrying bodies and firewood during the cremation process. Although not so visible on the tape, we saw piles of corpses wrapped in bright funeral covering lying on the steps awaiting cremation. Women did not take part in this ceremony because they had been prohibited from attendance during British rule. Later, after independence, the Indians continued the men only policy because they had become accustomed to it and liked it.
Cremation is the typical form of disposal of a corpse for Hindus In Hindu religion, fire is considered a sacred gateway to the spiritual world. Cremation of the body should occur within six hours of the person's death in the simplest ceremonial way. When we were driving in Varanasi we passed a car with a corpse tied to the roof (like a piece of carpet) heading toward the river. The waterfront of Varanasi is lined with concrete and marble slabs on which pyres are erected. At the time of the cremation or "last rites," a "Puja" (ritual worship) is performed. The remains are then either placed into urns or the closest male relative (son, grandson, etc.) of the deceased immerses the cremated remains into the sacred Ganges.Watching the fires was a unique experience.
Finally our oarsman brought us back to the waterfront front where we had been earlier to watch the Ganga Aarti. Like so many others we sat in boats to watch temple priests conduct “the sacred light ceremony.” One of the prayers uttered: “May we offer this prayer to Ganga, the divine mother and wave the festal lamp before her; may we glorify her who delivers us from the cycle of transmigration and the ocean of this world as if she were a steady boat.” Jay told us of the significance of the motions and the meanings of clockwise and counterclockwise circles. This ceremony celebrates the religious significance and history of Varanasi, replete with tales of plunder and destruction by conquerors and religious zealots.
Considerable time was spent floating out there in our boats, time well spent, but we had to move on. It was no easy task to climb the many steep stairs (the low river level increased our challenge). The rickshaw taxis were waiting for us and we wove through beeping traffic to reach our restaurant. A large table was provided for our group and we had a nice family meal of spicy food. Note that on the video Gary is adding a little more zip to his food.
Day 15. Monday, February 23:
Sunrise Ganges cruise/Sarnath
Morning came early because of the wake-up call. Jay wanted us out on the river to watch the sunrise. We arrived early because the traffic had not yet picked up. When we arrived, monks were already worshipping before the many Hindu temples along the river. We all boarded into one vessel and set off for our sunrise cruise. The air was nice and cool, not too cold. Our oarsman took us to the Manikarnika Ghats where we had been the night before. Hindu temples and goddess images reminded us the religious implications of all this activity. The morning light made it possible to take clear pictures of the people taking their ritual dips, bathing, washing clothes and making offerings to the river. Jay had arranged a young girl to join our entourage and to distribute prayer candles. When the candles were lit our people set them into the water to drift. Johanna showed us how this should be done. Soon the morning sun started to peek out and cast a pink hue over the river. With this background and drifting boats and swimmers in the foreground we had great photo opportunities.
The number of pilgrims reaching the river began to increase and the banks began to be crowded. It seemed that the water worshippers could not get enough of the water on their bodies as they emerged and reemerged in the river. I thought the water was quite dirty and polluted, but people soaked and washed their clothes in it. As the number of boats increased so did the number of vendors increase who plied their wares from boat to boat. The sunrise ontinued to offer beautiful scenery. We drifted back to the cremation activity and were able to make out more detail than last night. There were great piles of wood stacked up to keep the fires going. The sight that was most intriguing, in my mind, was the fervent ritual washing and bathing in the river by Hindus of all ages. Many Hindus believe that bathing in the river causes the remission of sins and facilitates the attainment of salvation. See also Ghat section on
pp. 206-207 of Eyewitness.
Jay changed the schedule a little to make better use of our time, and now had the driver take us to the unique Bharat Mata (Mother India) temple, dedicated not to gods and goddesses, but to Mother India herself. I took a video of a picture that seemed to depict a Hindu goddess, but this lady depicted a symbol of Indian nationalism. Inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi (picture) in 1936, this relatively modern temple houses an intricate bas relief map of the Indian subcontinent showing all its rivers, mountains, and pilgrimages, carved entirely from white marble. Jay used a light to point out the features.
The image of Bharat Mata in modern times emerged with awakening of India in late nineteenth century. A play "Bharat Mata" by Kiran Chandra Bandyopadhyay was first performed in 1873. Bankim Chandra Chat- topadhyay's Anand Math introduced the hymn Vande Mataram which soon became the song of the emerging freedom movement in India. Abanindranath Tagore portrayed Bharat Mata as a four-armed goddess wearing saffron colored robes, holding a book, paddy, a mala, and a white cloth.
Mahatma Gandhi said, "I hope this temple, which will serve as a cosmopolitan platform for people of all religions, castes, and creeds including Harijans, will go a great way in promoting religious unity, peace, and love in the country." In the Mahatma's speech we see a concern for the universal mother, not restricted to the mother that is India but the mother that is the earth. Swami Satyamitranand Giri built Bharat Mata temple in Haridwar. Consecration of this temple took place on 15 May 1983.
When we left the temple, I spotted an elephant in the parking lot behind our parked bus and could not resist taking his picture.
Later in the afternoon, we drove across town (map) northward to the ancient Buddhist learning center of Sarnath.
Mahatma Gandhi said, "I hope this temple, which will serve as a cosmopolitan platform for people of all religions, castes, and creeds including Harijans, will go a great way in promoting religious unity, peace, and love in the country." In the Mahatma's speech we see a concern for the universal mother, not restricted to the mother that is India but the mother that is the earth. Swami Satyamitranand Giri built Bharat Mata temple in Haridwar. Consecration of this temple took place on 15 May 1983.
When we left the temple, I spotted an elephant in the parking lot behind our parked bus and could not resist taking his picture.
Later in the afternoon, we drove across town (map) northward to the ancient Buddhist learning center of Sarnath.
Here, Gautama Buddha preached his first sermon to his disciples, as portrayed in Bernardo Bertolucci's film Little Buddha. After attaining “enlightenment” at Bodh Gaya the Buddha went to Sarnath; and it was here that he preached his first discourse in the deer park to set in motion the 'Wheel of the Dharma'. It is considered one of the most holy sites -- where the stream of the Buddha's teaching first flowed. Emperor Ashoka had built a beautiful ornate temple on the site with a golden statue of Buddha as the center of the shrine. A Japanese artist was commissioned to paint the major events in Buddha’s life along the walls. Jay explained each of the scenes to us. I taped one of the early scenes. Oddly enough, Buddha was painted with the eyes of a Japanese person. Here the Buddha encountered the five men who had been his companions of earlier austerities. On meeting the enlightened Buddha, all they saw was an ordinary man; they mocked his well-nourished appearance. "Here comes the mendicant Gautama," they said, "who has turned away from asceticism. He is certainly not worth our respect." When they reminded him of his former vows, the Buddha replied, "Austerities only confuse the mind. In the exhaustion and mental stupor to which they lead, one can no longer understand the ordinary things of life, still less the truth that lies beyond the senses. I have given up extremes of either luxury or asceticism. I have discovered the Middle Way". Hearing this the five ascetics became the Buddha's first disciples.
A Monastic tradition flourished for over 1,500 years on this site of the deer park at Sarnath. Of the two great stupas, which adorned the city only the Dhamekha Stupa remained which, is of the 6th century. This is the most conspicuous structure at Sarnath. Colonel Cunningham bore a shaft from the top centre of the stupa and discovered a stone tablet on which an inscription is written with the word Dhamekha, and mentions that this is the spot where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. Dhamekha seems to be a distorted form of Dharma Chakra, which means turning the wheel of the Dharma. It is also said that at this spot the five ascetics who left Gautama Buddha in Bodh Gaya used to live in huts. The present size of the stupa is 31.3 m high and 28.3 m in diameter. The lower portion of the stupa is covered completely with beautifully carved stones. The design consists of a broad band of Swastika (fylfot) carved in different geometrical patterns with a finely chiselled lotus wreath, running over and below the swastikas.
Jay gave us time to explore the stupa and the park before leading us over to Bodhi Tree of Sarnath.
The Bodhi Tree of Sarnath was planted from a sapling taken from the Sri Maha Bodhi tree of Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka. The sapling was planted on 12 November 1931 by the venerable Sri Devamitta Dhammapala, founder of Maha Bodhi Society of India, to mark the opening of the Mulagandha Kuty Vihara. The Sri Maha Bodhi of Anuradhapura was brought by Emperor Ashoka's daughter, the venerable Bhikkhuni Sanghamitta, as a branch of the Buddhagaya Sri Maha Bodhi tree (Ficus religiosa), under which Prince Sidhartha Gautama attained Enlightenment. The Bodhi tree of Anuradhapura is the oldest religious tree in the world.
The retaining wall around the Bodhi tree and the images of the Sakyamuni Buddha preaching his first sermon to the first five disciples were erected in 1989 with the assistance of the Myanmar Buddhist devotees.
In 1999 the Bodhi tree complex was widened by making space for meditation and Dhamma sermons with twenty images of previous Buddhas around the Bodhi tree, beginning from Taranankara Buddha to Gautama Buddha, all said to have attained Enlightenment under the Sri Maha Bodhi tree at Buddhagaya and preached their first sermons at Isipatana Deer Park, Sarnath. A granite plate inscribed with the Dhamma Chakka Pavattana Sutta, the first sermon of the Sakyamuni Buddha was also erected. The entire Bodhi complex was declared open on 17 December 1999 by the Dalai Lama, with a message to the world to restore and promote peace and harmony. (Source: Halong Bay, timstraveltips@gmail.com)
We then visited the Sarnath Museum, which houses some of the greatest treasures of Indian Buddhist art, including Ashoka's Lion Capital—the National Emblem of India and the beautiful Teaching Buddha, among the most beautiful sculptures in the world.
The National emblem is a symbol of contemporary India’s reaffirmation of its commitment to world peace and goodwill.
The National Emblem of India is a replica of the Lion of Sarnath, near Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh State. The Lion Capital was erected in the 3rd century BC by Emperor Ashoka to mark the spot where Lord Buddha first proclaimed his gospel of peace and emancipation. It is symbolic of India’s reaffirmation of its ancient commitment to world peace and goodwill. In the original, there are four lions, standing back to back, mounted on a abacus with a frieze carrying sculptures in high relief of an elephant, a galloping horse, a bull and a lion separated by intervening wheels over a bell-shaped lotus. Carved out of a single block of polished sandstone, the capital is crowned by the Wheel of the Law (Dharma Chakra). The four lions (one hidden from view) symbolize power, courage and confidence - rest on a circular abacus. Four smaller animals - guardians of the four directions, gird the abacus: the lion of the north, the elephant of the east, the horse of the south and the bull of the west. The abacus rests on a lotus in full bloom, exemplifying the fountainhead of life and creative inspiration. The motto ‘Satyameva Jayate’ inscribed below the emblem in Devanagari script means ‘truth alone triumphs’
Our most excellent Guide Jay then gave us an extra discovery moment (not on tape) by having the driver take us through the Banares Hindu University campus where Jay himself had attended college. It is one of the oldest educational institutions in India and is an internationally reputed University. Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya founded it in the year 1916. The university played an important role in the independence movement of India.
Afterwards we headed to a silk-weaving workshop. Those who chose to skip this could just walk over to the hotel next door. Later this evening we gathered in Jay’s hotel room for a farewell drink and to settle accounts for OAT’s optional programs. This was followed with a nice farewell dinner in which Irwin recited a written out tribute to our wonderful guide: Jay! Jay! Jay! Some were so impressed with its eloquence that they asked it to duplicated and distributed.
Accommodations: Radisson Varanasi Hotel
Day 16, Tuesday, February 24;
Yoga & meditation class/Bharat Mata temple/Fly to Delhi and overland to Gurgaon
This morning the group was offered a chance to begin the day with a relaxing yoga and meditation class before breakfast at our hotel. I first headed to the breakfast buffet for fresh fruit on the F level and then joined Gary at the P level in time for the session to begin. I was merely the photographer who took shots of the instructor and the three participants -- Gary, Aunt Effie and Johanna – as they learned basic yoga exercises and breathing techniques. I was amused at the snorting sounds emitted by the instructor.
Hindu meditation is both the path and the goal of all yoga practice. Techniques include controlled breathing, mantra reciting and visualization of deities, and a number of mind-expanding exercises, such as those to bring about unusual powers (siddhis); to develop one-pointed concentration; and to bring about the state of selfless contemplation
According to a Hindu leader Sri Chinmoy: Meditation is silence, energizing and fulfilling. Silence is the eloquent expression of the inexpressible. The key word here is energizing. That quiet place inside us is a source of tremendous strength. When we meditate what we actually do is enter into the deeper part of our being. Meditation is like going to the bottom of the sea, where everything is calm and tranquil. On the surface, there may be a multitude of waves, but the sea is not affected below. In its deepest depths it is all silence. To enter into that place, now, first thing, is to tap that strength inside us, let it sustain us through the day. When the waves come from the outside world, we are not affected. Fear, doubt, worry and all the earthly turmoils will just wash away. Just take a moment, to breathe. Breathe slowly and evenly. Use your imagination; feel you're breathing out all the rubbish you want to let go of. Feel you're breathing in pure energy.
Later we were transferred to the airport to board a flight to Delhi. The flight went smoothly. We arrived at the airport in late afternoon and took to the freeway – slowing down as we passed an accident scene. We were met by the doorman at the fashionable Park Premier, in the township of Gurgaon. A young lady gave us our red dots on the forehead and another attendant distributed a refreshing soft drink. The hotel was very nice and the lobby area merited a scan with the camcorder. Gary and Don seemed to appreciate the ambiance, too. Our night would be cut short because we had to be at the airport three hours early before for the 3:30am flight. Our luggage had to be out and we had to be prepared to leave before midnight.
Gary planned to stay in India for an extended time and did not have to meet in the lobby, but he chose to join us to say farewell. We had been like a close knit family.
Day 17, Wednesday, February 25:
We said our goodbyes to Jay (and presented the customary tips) before boarding the shuttle bus service to the airport. Traffic was light and we made good time. Fortunately we arrived at the Indira Gandhi International, terminal 2, with plenty of time, because the lines for security were very long. We boarded our British Airways craft and were off to London. A wonderful and exciting journey had come to an end. Wife Annette met me at the airport and took me home in time to get the snow blower ready for an impending snow storm.
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APPENDIX
India's History
Early History
There is evidence of a civilized, urban society in the Indus Valley dating back over 5,000 years. There is speculation, based on fossil remains that India’s first inhabitants were from the same racial group as the aborigines of Australia. Unfortunately, the writing system from this time has never been translated, and little is known about India’s earliest inhabitants. However, archaeologists have found working wells and bathrooms, sophisticated drainage systems, jewelry, brass items and cooking utensils, indicating that the society was remarkably advanced.
Around 1500 BC, a group of Aryan peoples invaded India from the North. Over the next two thousand years, many other groups from both Africa and Asia migrated into the area. Interbreeding between different ethnic groups was so common that it is nearly impossible to determine racial distinctions among the people of India today with any degree of certainty. The Aryans brought with them a religion called Vedism, which was based on a rigid social hierarchy or caste system. Vedism eventually combined with local religions and evolved into Hinduism.
According to Hinduism, the caste into which one is born depends upon one’s karma—the accumulated good and bad deeds from past lives. Therefore, it is necessary for one to do good works on earth in order to reach a higher social status in future lives. Hinduism’s rigid caste system, with its emphasis on accepting one’s lot in life, has been the most important social influence in India for over 3,000 years.
The Age of Dynasties
In 321 BC, the warrior Chandragupta united most of North India through military conquest and established the Maurya Dynasty. He instituted a centralized bureaucracy to oversee the administration of government. Until this time, India had been divided into small monarchies and aristocratic republics based on tribal groupings. The third Mauryan king, Asoka, conquered the southern portion of India, uniting the entire continent into one kingdom. Asoka, who was a Buddhist, sought to diminish the influence of Hinduism in India.
Buddhism originated in India around 500 BC. The philosopher Siddhartha Gautama taught that overcoming personal desire in reaching a state of blissful Nirvana, or “no-self” could eliminate earthly suffering. He became known throughout India as the Buddha, or enlightened one; and his teachings, collectively called “Buddhism,” achieved widespread popularity during the reign of Asoka. The influence of Buddhism can still be seen in many of India’s stupas, or shrines, including the Great Stupa at Sanity.
Maurya kings ruled India for nearly 600 years. However, by the dawn of the 4th century AD, their kingdom had once again split into many small states. In AD 320, a new dynasty, the Guptas, rose to power and reunited India, ushering in a golden age of great achievements in science, literature and the arts. The Gupta Dynasty was a peaceful and prosperous time in which Hinduism flourished and Buddhism all but disappeared from the continent.
The fall of the Indian Kingdom
In AD 550, white Huns, effectively destroying the Indian kingdom, conquered Northern India. Over the next thousand years, India was repeatedly invaded and conquered by Huns. In AD 1200, Genghis Khan led a series of successful raids against Punjab, making India the center of the largest land empire in history. Khan let the Muslims maintain a Sultanate in Delhi and allowed them to rule with relative autonomy. However, in 1526, Babur, a descendent of Khan, seized the throne from the Sultan and established the great Mughal Empire, which remained in power until the early 1700s.
During the reign of the Mughals, Indian culture was as creative and brilliant as any in the world. The Mughals adopted the local religion, Islam, and spent a great deal of their ill-gained wealth on constructing magnificent palaces and monuments. The prosperity and strength of this time is evident in India’s great mosques, including the Taj Mahal, constructed under Shah Jahan.
The Age of Colonization
In 1498, Vasco de Gama discovered an ocean route around the Cape of Good Hope, beginning a period of bitter struggle between the European powers for supremacy in the Indian trade. By 1751, the French had taken control of much of India through military force. The British mounted a successful military campaign to overthrow the French and establish a monopoly on trade for the British East India Company. Although Britain did not declare India a colony, the British East India Company came to be the dominant political force in the country by using Indian soldiers to assert its will over the government and other European trade companies.
By the 1850s, Indian nationalists had grown wary of this arrangement. They fomented a revolt among the Indian soldiers employed by the company. In 1857, the soldiers struck out, effectively ending the 100-year monopoly of the British East India Company. The move backfired, however, because Britain took control of the administration of Indian government and named Queen Victoria Empress of India in 1877.
Despite many advances under British rule, including the construction of railways, canals, irrigation works, schools, mills and factories, Indian resentment continued to increase, and nationalism had reached a fever pitch by the onset of the First World War. Led by Mohandas Gandhi, Indian nationalists gained control of Congress and began a campaign of non-cooperation with the British.
The Dawn of Independence
During World War II, the Indian Congress agreed to serve with the British only on the condition that India would be granted independence at the close of the war. The British rejected the proposal. Nevertheless, 2.5 million Indians did fight with Britain against the Japanese; what’s more, the British granted independence to India in 1947.
Internal rioting between Hindus and Sikhs marred the new nation. Gandhi’s attempts to end the strife and create unity were cut short when he was shot dead in 1948. Remarkably, his death brought the country together, thereby ending the violence and leading to reconciliation between the warring religious groups.
Under the rule of Prime Minister Nehru, India undertook a policy of non-alignment, hoping to maintain peaceful relations with all nations. After Nehru’s death, his daughter, Indira Gandhi, was elected Prime Minister. The first decade of Gandhi’s time in office was highly controversial. She censored the press, had thousands of political opponents arrested and sponsored a program of forced sterilization. In the late 70s, Gandhi was removed from office and eventually imprisoned. Amazingly, she was reelected shortly after her release from prison in 1980, touching off a period of widespread civil unrest as small states attempted to break away from the country. Indira Gandhi was assassinated in 1984, and India’s internal turmoil continued throughout the decade that followed.
India Today
Population (July 2005 estimate): 1,080,264,388
Ethnic groups: Indo-Aryan 72%, Dravidian 25%
Languages: Hindi (official), English
Religions: Hindu 80%, Muslims 14%
India is home to over a billion people—roughly one sixth of the earth’s population. The country is home to people from many different races, religions, language groups and social castes. About 80 percent of the people are Hindu and identify themselves according to Hindu castes, or hereditary social groups. These castes often determine occupation, diet, and even when one can marry. Despite the fact that the caste system creates wide disparities between social groups, Hindus accept their rank in life as being predetermined. What’s more, they believe it is essential to accept and live according to one’s station in order to attain a higher social status in the next life.
The standard of living for most Indian citizens is low. About two-thirds of the population depends on agriculture for their livelihood, but only a small portion of the land is suitable for cultivation. As a result, large segments of the population live in poverty.
About three-quarters of the population live in villages. Often, these villages are so heavily populated, with such tightly clustered buildings, that they take on an urban appearance. Modern amenities such as indoor plumbing and electricity are uncommon. The other quarter of the population is urban. Westerners often find Indian cities overcrowded and poorly planned. Travelers are likely to find large homeless populations living in makeshift settlements on the edge of town. Begging is common.
Later we were transferred to the airport to board a flight to Delhi. The flight went smoothly. We arrived at the airport in late afternoon and took to the freeway – slowing down as we passed an accident scene. We were met by the doorman at the fashionable Park Premier, in the township of Gurgaon. A young lady gave us our red dots on the forehead and another attendant distributed a refreshing soft drink. The hotel was very nice and the lobby area merited a scan with the camcorder. Gary and Don seemed to appreciate the ambiance, too. Our night would be cut short because we had to be at the airport three hours early before for the 3:30am flight. Our luggage had to be out and we had to be prepared to leave before midnight.
Gary planned to stay in India for an extended time and did not have to meet in the lobby, but he chose to join us to say farewell. We had been like a close knit family.
Day 17, Wednesday, February 25:
We said our goodbyes to Jay (and presented the customary tips) before boarding the shuttle bus service to the airport. Traffic was light and we made good time. Fortunately we arrived at the Indira Gandhi International, terminal 2, with plenty of time, because the lines for security were very long. We boarded our British Airways craft and were off to London. A wonderful and exciting journey had come to an end. Wife Annette met me at the airport and took me home in time to get the snow blower ready for an impending snow storm.
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APPENDIX
India's History
Early History
There is evidence of a civilized, urban society in the Indus Valley dating back over 5,000 years. There is speculation, based on fossil remains that India’s first inhabitants were from the same racial group as the aborigines of Australia. Unfortunately, the writing system from this time has never been translated, and little is known about India’s earliest inhabitants. However, archaeologists have found working wells and bathrooms, sophisticated drainage systems, jewelry, brass items and cooking utensils, indicating that the society was remarkably advanced.
Around 1500 BC, a group of Aryan peoples invaded India from the North. Over the next two thousand years, many other groups from both Africa and Asia migrated into the area. Interbreeding between different ethnic groups was so common that it is nearly impossible to determine racial distinctions among the people of India today with any degree of certainty. The Aryans brought with them a religion called Vedism, which was based on a rigid social hierarchy or caste system. Vedism eventually combined with local religions and evolved into Hinduism.
According to Hinduism, the caste into which one is born depends upon one’s karma—the accumulated good and bad deeds from past lives. Therefore, it is necessary for one to do good works on earth in order to reach a higher social status in future lives. Hinduism’s rigid caste system, with its emphasis on accepting one’s lot in life, has been the most important social influence in India for over 3,000 years.
The Age of Dynasties
In 321 BC, the warrior Chandragupta united most of North India through military conquest and established the Maurya Dynasty. He instituted a centralized bureaucracy to oversee the administration of government. Until this time, India had been divided into small monarchies and aristocratic republics based on tribal groupings. The third Mauryan king, Asoka, conquered the southern portion of India, uniting the entire continent into one kingdom. Asoka, who was a Buddhist, sought to diminish the influence of Hinduism in India.
Buddhism originated in India around 500 BC. The philosopher Siddhartha Gautama taught that overcoming personal desire in reaching a state of blissful Nirvana, or “no-self” could eliminate earthly suffering. He became known throughout India as the Buddha, or enlightened one; and his teachings, collectively called “Buddhism,” achieved widespread popularity during the reign of Asoka. The influence of Buddhism can still be seen in many of India’s stupas, or shrines, including the Great Stupa at Sanity.
Maurya kings ruled India for nearly 600 years. However, by the dawn of the 4th century AD, their kingdom had once again split into many small states. In AD 320, a new dynasty, the Guptas, rose to power and reunited India, ushering in a golden age of great achievements in science, literature and the arts. The Gupta Dynasty was a peaceful and prosperous time in which Hinduism flourished and Buddhism all but disappeared from the continent.
The fall of the Indian Kingdom
In AD 550, white Huns, effectively destroying the Indian kingdom, conquered Northern India. Over the next thousand years, India was repeatedly invaded and conquered by Huns. In AD 1200, Genghis Khan led a series of successful raids against Punjab, making India the center of the largest land empire in history. Khan let the Muslims maintain a Sultanate in Delhi and allowed them to rule with relative autonomy. However, in 1526, Babur, a descendent of Khan, seized the throne from the Sultan and established the great Mughal Empire, which remained in power until the early 1700s.
During the reign of the Mughals, Indian culture was as creative and brilliant as any in the world. The Mughals adopted the local religion, Islam, and spent a great deal of their ill-gained wealth on constructing magnificent palaces and monuments. The prosperity and strength of this time is evident in India’s great mosques, including the Taj Mahal, constructed under Shah Jahan.
The Age of Colonization
In 1498, Vasco de Gama discovered an ocean route around the Cape of Good Hope, beginning a period of bitter struggle between the European powers for supremacy in the Indian trade. By 1751, the French had taken control of much of India through military force. The British mounted a successful military campaign to overthrow the French and establish a monopoly on trade for the British East India Company. Although Britain did not declare India a colony, the British East India Company came to be the dominant political force in the country by using Indian soldiers to assert its will over the government and other European trade companies.
By the 1850s, Indian nationalists had grown wary of this arrangement. They fomented a revolt among the Indian soldiers employed by the company. In 1857, the soldiers struck out, effectively ending the 100-year monopoly of the British East India Company. The move backfired, however, because Britain took control of the administration of Indian government and named Queen Victoria Empress of India in 1877.
Despite many advances under British rule, including the construction of railways, canals, irrigation works, schools, mills and factories, Indian resentment continued to increase, and nationalism had reached a fever pitch by the onset of the First World War. Led by Mohandas Gandhi, Indian nationalists gained control of Congress and began a campaign of non-cooperation with the British.
The Dawn of Independence
During World War II, the Indian Congress agreed to serve with the British only on the condition that India would be granted independence at the close of the war. The British rejected the proposal. Nevertheless, 2.5 million Indians did fight with Britain against the Japanese; what’s more, the British granted independence to India in 1947.
Internal rioting between Hindus and Sikhs marred the new nation. Gandhi’s attempts to end the strife and create unity were cut short when he was shot dead in 1948. Remarkably, his death brought the country together, thereby ending the violence and leading to reconciliation between the warring religious groups.
Under the rule of Prime Minister Nehru, India undertook a policy of non-alignment, hoping to maintain peaceful relations with all nations. After Nehru’s death, his daughter, Indira Gandhi, was elected Prime Minister. The first decade of Gandhi’s time in office was highly controversial. She censored the press, had thousands of political opponents arrested and sponsored a program of forced sterilization. In the late 70s, Gandhi was removed from office and eventually imprisoned. Amazingly, she was reelected shortly after her release from prison in 1980, touching off a period of widespread civil unrest as small states attempted to break away from the country. Indira Gandhi was assassinated in 1984, and India’s internal turmoil continued throughout the decade that followed.
India Today
Population (July 2005 estimate): 1,080,264,388
Ethnic groups: Indo-Aryan 72%, Dravidian 25%
Languages: Hindi (official), English
Religions: Hindu 80%, Muslims 14%
India is home to over a billion people—roughly one sixth of the earth’s population. The country is home to people from many different races, religions, language groups and social castes. About 80 percent of the people are Hindu and identify themselves according to Hindu castes, or hereditary social groups. These castes often determine occupation, diet, and even when one can marry. Despite the fact that the caste system creates wide disparities between social groups, Hindus accept their rank in life as being predetermined. What’s more, they believe it is essential to accept and live according to one’s station in order to attain a higher social status in the next life.
The standard of living for most Indian citizens is low. About two-thirds of the population depends on agriculture for their livelihood, but only a small portion of the land is suitable for cultivation. As a result, large segments of the population live in poverty.
About three-quarters of the population live in villages. Often, these villages are so heavily populated, with such tightly clustered buildings, that they take on an urban appearance. Modern amenities such as indoor plumbing and electricity are uncommon. The other quarter of the population is urban. Westerners often find Indian cities overcrowded and poorly planned. Travelers are likely to find large homeless populations living in makeshift settlements on the edge of town. Begging is common.
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