2009 Africa Part II SA: Johannesburg,Pretoria, Cape Town, Durban & Kruger

Day 1 May 14 Thursday

The complimentary Ramada shuttle van dropped me off at the MSP terminal 2 hours early for my international check-in with United Airlines. The agent asked if I would like to be placed on a one hour earlier flight to Chicago and I said, “Sure”. My arrival in Chicago was such that I again had an option for an earlier flight, this time on my segment to Dulles, DC. With extra time on my hands at the Dulles airport I settled down for a nice lunch of spinach stomboli and a bowl of fresh fruit. As expected, my South African Airlines flight to Johannesburg was really long (17 hours 40 minutes) but I had an aisle seat and an empty seat beside me. I used much time watching African stuff on my video screen. First was a touching 1995 movie that had been filmed in South Africa, “Cry, My Beloved Country,” which starred James Earl Jones as a Zulu priest. The second was a recent (2006) full-length movie “Blood Diamond” which centered on the Sierra Leone Civil War of 1997-1998. Leonardo DiCaprio played the part of a mercenary who traded in diamonds that financed the conflict (hence “blood” diamonds). I thought this movie offered an oversimplification for explaining the conflict. The film made much of the atrocities of that war and the use of youngsters as combatants, which was factual and very real. I also watched a documentary on the forthcoming 2010 World Cup to South Africa and the preparations this entailed. Guide books caution against drinking alcohol on long air flights, but I thought a small bottle of South African chardonnay wouldn’t count, especially since it was complimentary on SAA international flights.

Day 2 May 15 Friday

Our massive jet landed 5:20 pm at O.R. Tambo International Airport, the largest and busiest airport in Africa and a gateway for international air travel to and from the rest of southern Africa.

It was formerly officially known as Johannesburg Inter- national Airport and before that as Jan Smuts International Airport (hence the airport's ICAO code, FAJS) after the South African statesman of that name (above). The first renaming was done in 1994 when the newly reformed South African government implemented a national policy of not naming airports after politicians. The policy was however reversed later, and the airport renamed again on 27 October 2006 after Oliver Tambo, the former President of the African National Congress (ANC).

We passengers must have looked a sorry lot as we tumbled into the passport control and the luggage collection area. It had been 29 hours since I had departed from my hotel in Minneapolis. Our Vantage guide, Anne, was waiting for us as we exited customs. This young lady was to be an excellent guide – plus had a great sense of humor. She had us assemble together until all had been accounted for, giving us time to change money at nearby change stations. We then all marched towards our waiting bus. Anne told us that if we were puffing and out of breath from pulling our luggage that was the norm -- because Johannesburg is over 6., 000 feet above sea level and the air is quite thin at that level.

Our bus driver took us out to Parktown, which lies between Westcliff and Saxonwold. This is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Johannesburg filled with rather imposing homes that vie with those in London in terms of grandiosity.

Developed by some of the most successful entrepreneurs of their time these showy mansions, some with fancy turrets and towers, became known as “Parktown Baronial” and the architects displayed a definite leaning to the eclectic, the original owners of their homes intent on parties, croquet on the lawns and lavish parties.

By the time we reached the Sunnyside Park Hotel, it was quite late. Anne informed us that a nice buffet was available at the hotel for a reasonable price, but I thought the food on the airplane had been sufficient.

Dining choices included Milner’s Restaurant or the Penny and Pound Pub, and the 24- hour room service.

We gathered together in the large reception area for a welcome drink, to become acquainted with our
wonderful guide Anne and to receive our room assignments. I was impressed with the ambiance, that of a bygone era. The historically restored First- Class Sunnyside Park Hotel occupies a mansion built in 1895 by the American mining engineer who revolutionized gold mining in South Africa. Later, Sunnyside served as the official residence of the Governor of the Crown Colonies. One would expect that the charge per night here would be rather high, but I checked their off-season rates as listed on their web site and it had been reduced to 1150 Rand or $122US for a single. Vantage, of course, has mass booking advantage.

First thing the next morning I ventured out to tape the gorgeous grounds. This hotel, a member of the distinguished Legacy Hotels and Resorts chain, enjoys a beautiful setting amid a garden and trees, and is a National Monument.

Johannesburg also known as Jozi or Joburg is the largest city in South Africa. (Note map of Gauteng Province). Johannesburg is the provincial capital of Gauteng the wealthiest province in South Africa, having the largest economy of any metropolitan region in Sub-Saharan Africa. The city is one of the 40 largest metropolitan areas in the world and it is one of Africa's only two global cities. While Johannesburg does not form one of South Africa's three capital cities, it does house the Constitutional Court – South Africa's highest court. Johannesburg is the source of a large-scale gold and diamond trade, due to its location on the mineral-rich Witwatersrand range of hills.

According to the 2007 Community Survey, the population of the municipal city was 3,888,180 and the population of the Greater Johannesburg Metropolitan Area was 7,151,447, but this was only conducted in the City of Johannesburg area. With the surrounding areas of Ekhuruleni, the West Rand, Soweto and Lenasia, the population of Johannesburg is roughly 10,267,700. Johannesburg's land area of 1,645 square kilometers (635 sq. mi.) is very large when compared to other cities, resulting in a population density of 2,364 inhabitants per square kilometer (6,123/sq mi.). Johannesburg also encompasses Soweto to the southwest, a township that the apartheid government established to accommodate the large number of migrant workers, as well as Lenasia. Johannesburg and Pretoria act as one functional entity, connecting the province of Gauteng together and forming one Mega-city of roughly 11 million people.

I noticed the large number of German sounding names in towns around Johannesburg. Our Vantage guide Anne, who lives in Joburg, was of German descent. A web site posed the question: “Why did Germans settle in the Johannesburg area?” There were no responses on that web site. Possibly later I’ll write in some comments.

Many Germans were coming to the United States in the mid 19th century, many heading for the Midwest (big years for the Wisconsin, Minnesota Ohio and Missouri Lutheran Synods). The Revolution of 1848 turnaround motivated many middle class Germans to flee, so some of these more than likely left for South Africa. Apparently German missionaries were active there already in the 1840s and 1850s (Germans in South Africa and Map of German Lutheran Settlements in KwaZulu-Natal, http://www.geocities.com/heartland/Meadows/7589/kznatal.gif). I did a little browsing in Germany, 1866-1945 by Gordon Alexander Craig (via Google book search). “In 1884 there were thousands of Germans in Johannesburg and Pretoria, and they were prominent in the commercial and financial life of the area. Germans held the whiskey and dynamite monopolies, controlled the national bank, supplied the water and imported iron and steel chemicals and machines. Krupp, Siemens and Halske, Goerz, Lippert and the Deutsche Bank all had branches in the country. Germans owned 20% of all foreign capital invested in the country” (Footnote: Langer, Diplomacy of Imperialism, p. 219).

To further explore the background of Germans around Johannesburg, I read through a 2008 Newsletter of the Johannes South African Military History Society. A presentation by Flip Hoorweg provided some more information to answer my question: Hoorweg’s story covered the events in 1944, near the end of World War II, when the Russians broke through the German front line in Belorussia, liberated Poland and entered Germany. Following the Nazi atrocities in Russia, it was expected that the oncoming Russian troops would exact retribution upon the local German population, particularly those in Eastern Germany. Using maps, Flip then showed how millions of Germans in Silesia, Pomerania and East Prussia fled westward ahead of the advancing Russians, who swiftly moved to cut off the landward retreat. The only way out for those trapped was to get to the Baltic coast and hope to get some sort of transport across the seas to freedom. Towards the end of February 1945 more than 8 million Germans, mostly women and children, were on the move towards the Baltic port cities. The Chief of the German Navy, Grand Admiral Karl Donitz, saw what was happening and promptly ordered all Naval units to proceed at once to the Bay of Danzig, thus commencing the biggest rescue mission in history. Anything that could float was pressed into service and in the closing months of the war more than two million men, women and children were lifted to safety. A total of 3 275 ships took part, with the comparatively slight loss of only 150 of them to Russian action. Some of those who fled Germany found their way to Johannesburg.

Day 3 May 16 Saturday --- Johannesburg


Wake-up call at 6:30 am. After an included comprehensive buffet breakfast of granola cereal, English bacon and eggs and freshly cut fruit, I was off at 8:30 am to enjoy a tour of laid-back Pretoria. See maps pp. 479 and 516 of Lonely Planet South Africa.

By 1855 there was no known tribe in what is known as Pretoria area today. Only nomadic groups passed through this area, with a leader/person Tshwane. Pretoria was founded in 1855. Initially the capital of the Zuid-Afrikaansche Republiek was Ohrigstad, but Pretoria became the capital of the then ZAR. Later on Pretoria became the capital of the Transvaal province (old ZAR) after the Anglo-Boer War. The city was named after Andries Pretorius, the Boer leader at the Battle of Blood River where the Voortrekkers defeated the Zulus under King Dingaan.

On 16 December 1838 the Battle of Blood River took place near the Ncome River in KwaZulu Natal. The battle was between the Zulu's and the Voortrekkers. About 10 000-20 000 Zulu warriors attacked the Voortrekkers, but the 470 Voortrekkers, with the advantage of gunpowder, warded them off. The battle began at dawn and was over by midday. More than 3000 Zulu casualties were counted around the laager. Only, 3 Voortrekkers (including Voortrekker leader Pretorius) were wounded, none were killed. The Ncome River became red with the blood of the slain. Hence the river became known as "Blood River".

In 1856 the area today know as Arcadia was acquired in exchange for a pony and added to the town. In 1899, during the Anglo-Boer War, Winston Churchill (below) was captured and held as a POW in Pretoria until his eventual escape to Mozambique. British forces captured Pretoria in 1900 and held control over the city until the signing of the Peace of Vereeniging treaty in 1902. When the Union of South Africa was established in 1910, Pretoria was elected the capital and is still the administrative capital of the Republic of South Africa today. Yes, the song “Marching to Pretoria” was referring to this city. Our bus traveled along a modern highway, on the “wrong side of the road,” of course, towards the historic city.

Before arriving in Pretoria we could see the famous Voortrekker Monument off to the left in the distance. I had hoped we could visit it, but Anne said it was out of the way. We had to settle for this brief view from a moving bus. The monument is not on the video because I could not do it justice. The following is from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:

This a monument situated in the city of Pretoria, South Africa. The massive granite structure, built to honor the Voortrekkers (Pioneers) who left the Cape Colony in the thousands between 1835 and 1854, was designed by the architect Gerard Moerdijk who had the ideal to design a "monument that would stand a thousand years to describe the history and the meaning of the Great Trek to its descendants". It can be seen from almost any location in the city, as it is seated on a hilltop.

As we drove into the city we were on Pretoria's main street, Church Street, the longest urban street in South Africa and one of the longest straight streets in the world. It was announced in September 2008, that the name of this street is due to have its name changed, along with many other streets within the city. Our bus drove up to the bus pull-off for the Kruger House, slowed down as if to park, then drove off. I was disappointed that this was not made into a visit site. I believe that Paul Kruger was being slighted
for political correctness reasons. Anyhow, we saw the house even if it was not taped. One may see a photo of the house at www.southafricaholiday.org.uk/places/m_g_krugerhousemuseum.

Kruger House is the historical Pretoria residence of the Boer leader and President of the South African Republic, Paul Kruger. It was built in 1884 by architect Tom Claridge and builder Charles Clark. Milk was used, instead of water, for mixing the cement from which the house was constructed, as the cement available was of poor quality.

The house was also one of the first in Pretoria to be lit by electricity. The house contains either the original furnishings or items from the same historical period, some of the many gifts that were presented to Kruger as well as other memorabilia. There is a knife that Kruger used to amputate his thumb after a shooting incident (the thumb is not on display). Also here is the table at which many famous people had talks during the years, for example Prime Minister of Cape Colony John X Merriman, colonizer Cecil John Rhodes, President of the Orange Free State M T Steyn, explorer Henry Stanley, author Mark Twain and many others. Another interesting feature of the house is two stone lions on the verandah that were presented to President Kruger as a birthday gift on 10 October 1896 by the mining magnate Barney Barnato (from slum-dog beggar to diamond millionaire character and competitor to Rhodes). The Kruger House is now a house museum that tries to recreate the ambience of the period. Legend has it that he would sit on the front porch and chat with passers-by.

The nearby Dutch Reformed church is where the aged patriarch worshipped and was a frequent preacher. Photos on the web site reveal a very interesting Byzantine-style church tower. Kruger and Pretorius were buried in the nearby cemetery.

Our bus continued on to Church Square (map) where the driver let us off to visit. Here we had time to look over the Anton van Wouw's Statue of Paul Kruger. I found an interesting account of this monument from the 2006 Journal of Miriam Mannak (www.igougo.com)

“The main eye-catcher is a massive statue of Boer Leader Paul Kruger, with four anonymous citizen soldiers at his feet. Kruger, or "Oom Paul" (Uncle Paul), is one of the most important figures to many Afrikaners (South Africans of Dutch descent): In the late 18th century, he was one of the most prominent Afrikaners to fight for Afrikaner independence and freedom in South Africa and against British domination, but Britain gained control over South Africa. Observing the statue, I could not decide what opinion to have. The construction is truly enormous, but somehow it does not have a great effect on me, maybe because I thought of Kruger being a tall, strong, charismatic figure. The statue is a tribute to a stiff, ugly, and gnome-looking old man with a potato-shaped nose and huge hands. In any case, it is a photogenic statue that is worth visiting, even if it were only to eat lunch on one of the benches surrounding Church Square.”


I thought Krueger received favorable treatment in a book by Martin Meredith, Diamonds, Gold, And War, (New York: Public Affairs, 2007):

Paul Kruger was a deeply religious man. He claimed to have only read one book, the Bible, and also claimed to know most of it by heart. He was a founding member of the Reformed Church (Gereformeerde Kerk). In time, Kruger emerged as a leader. He started as a field cornet in the commandos, eventually becoming Commandant-General of the South African Republic. He was appointed member of a commission of the Volksraad, the republican parliament that was to draw up a constitution. People began to take notice of the young man and he played a prominent part in ending the quarrel between the Transvaal leader, Stephanus Schoeman, and M.W. Pretorius. He was present at the Sand River Convention in 1852.

In 1873, Kruger resigned as Commandant-General, and for a time he held no office and retired to his farm, Boekenhoutfontein. However, in 1874 he was elected as a member of the Executive Council and shortly after became the Vice-President of the Transvaal. Following the annexation of the Transvaal by Britain in 1877, Kruger became the leader of the resistance movement. The First Boer War started in 1880, and the British forces were defeated at Majuba in 1881. Once again, Kruger played a critical role in the negotiations with the British, which led to the restoration of the Transvaal's independence under British suzerainty.

In 1895, Rhodes sponsored the unsuccessful Jameson Raid, which attempted to overthrow Transvaal, under President Kruger, to bring it under British control. Rhodes was forced to resign, but the fiasco made the 1899-1902 Anglo-Boer almost inevitable (See also p. 168 of Lonely Planet South Africa).

After viewing the Kruger statue I proceeded over to The Palace of Justice (above), also on Church Square. Again I quote from the Journal of Miriam Mannak (www.igougo.com):“The Palace of Justice gave me the shivers, as it was here where the Rivonia Trial took place in 1963 and 1964. “During this trial, Nelson Mandela and other prominent figures of the ANC, Govan Mbeki, Walter Sisulu, Raymond
Mhlaba, Elias Motsoaledi, Ahmed Kathrada, Denis Goldberg, and Wilton Mkwayi, were tried for treason and 221 acts of sabotage to "...forment a violent revolution..."and thus to overthrow the
government. After being found guilty, all but Denis Goldberg, who was send to Pretoria prison, were
send to Robben Island to serve a lifelong imprisonment.

When staring at the actually nice- looking building, a feeling of sadness draped itself over me. It was almost as if I heard Nelson Mandela' strong and proud defense statement, especially these last lines I will never forget: "...Their struggle [o the ANC] is a truly national one. It is a struggle of the African people, inspired by their own suffering and their own experience.... But if needs be, it is an ideal for which I am prepared to die."

From the Palace of Justice, I videotaped the overall view of Church Square, which included important
buildings as the Old Capitol Theatre, the Tudor Chambers and the Old Council Chamber. The very
Dutch architecture building in the video is a bank. Next on the agenda were the red-sandstone Union
buildings (location of the South African presidency with buildings designed by Sir Herbert Baker and gardens. Photo. See city map p. 516 of Lonely Planet South Africa.

The Union Buildings, situated on Meintjies Kop and surrounded by a magnificent garden and different monuments, were built in the early 20th century. The construction of the buildings started in 1910, and apparently it took over 1,200 workers, more than 3 years, and more than 1.3 million English pounds to complete the project in 1913.

The Union Buildings were the setting of one of the most important chapters of recent South African history: the inauguration of president Nelson Mandela in May 1994. Here he spoke the legendary words:

"We dedicate this day to all the heroes and heroines in this country and the rest of the world who sacrificed in many ways and surrendered their lives so that we could be free. Their dreams have become reality. Freedom is their reward.... We understand it still that there is no easy road to freedom. We know it well that none of us acting alone can achieve success. We must therefore act together as a united people, for national reconciliation, for nation building, for the birth of a new world. Let there be justice for all. Let there be peace for all. Let there be work, bread, water and salt for all. Let each know that for each the body, the mind and the soul have been freed to fulfill themselves. Never, never and never again shall it be that this beautiful land will again experience the oppression of one by another and suffer the
indignity of being the skunk of the world. Let freedom reign."

After taping the Union Buildings I scanned the beautiful gardens below. Anne gave us free time to look over goods displayed by vendors. I tried to use restraint, but ended up buying a wooden hippo for $6US (now resting on our front porch) and earrings for $2US. Yep, they took US dollars.

Mission accomplished for Pretoria, we headed back to Johannesburg and the developing area of Soweto.
See map #3 on p. 479 of Lonely Planet South Africa.

Our local guide is pictured to the right. Soweto’s name is an English syllabic abbreviation, short for South Western Township. Soweto came to the world's attention on June 16, 1976 with the Soweto Uprising, when mass protests erupted over the government's policy to enforce education in Afrikaans rather than English. Police opened fire in Orlando West on 10,000 students marching from Naledi High School to Orlando Stadium, and in the events that unfolded, 566 people died.

The impact of the Soweto protests reverberated through the country and across the world. In their aftermath, economic and cultural sanctions were introduced from abroad. Political activists left the
country to train for guerrilla resistance. Soweto and other townships became the stage for violent
state repression.


Our visit started with a traditional African lunch at the Sakhumzi Restaurant. Our group which numbered 26 filed into an improvised tented area. After being seated we went to the main structure for buffet items.



I was especially enamored with the fresh vegetables. Soweto musicians sang for us as we dined. The local guide that we picked up led us over to Bishop Tutu’s home on Vilakazi Street, which was almost connected to the restaurant. Both Mandela and Tutu were Nobel Peace Prize winners.



From here we walked down the street to Nelson Mandela’s home. Of this site, Philippa Garson (26 October 2004) wrote: Nelson Mandela's humble little house in Orlando West, Soweto, now called the Mandela Family Museum, is a house comprising four inter-leading rooms, containing a rather higgly-
piggly assortment of memorabilia, paintings and photographs of the Mandela family, as well as a
collection of honorary doctorates bestowed on Mandela by universities and institutions around the world. The matchbox home, at 8115 Ngakane Street, was Mandela's first house. He moved there with his first wife, Evelyn Ntoko Mase, in 1946. After their divorce in 1957, she moved out.


When Mandela married Winnie Madikizela in 1958, she joined him at the Soweto home. However, during the ensuing years, when his life as a freedom fighter was all consuming, Mandela seldom stayed there.

He was the "Black Pimpernel", living a life on the run, until his arrest and imprisonment in 1962.
Madikizela-Mandela continued to live in the tiny house with her two daughters, Zeni and Zindzi, while Mandela was in jail. The house was petrol- bombed and set alight several times during this period.

When he was released, Mandela refused to move to the more opulent home (also in Orlando West) that
Madikizela-Mandela had built during his incarceration. He wanted only to return to the house of his
memories. However, after his release, he stayed there for a mere 11 days, as he was moved around from one secret location to the next until he settled into his present Houghton residence.

Mandela separated from Madikizela-Mandela in 1992 and the couple was divorced in 1996. But, although her ex-husband handed the house to the Soweto Heritage Trust, Madikizela-Mandela refused to
relinquish it. Instead, in 1997, she turned it into the Mandela Family Museum and set up a pub and restaurant across the road. Certainly, the area is steeped in struggle history. Mandela now lives with his third wife, Graca Machel, widow of former Mozambique president Samora Machel. The pair was married on Mandela's 80th birthday.

With a tour guide we toured the house where Mandela had lived. The building has been carefully restored so that it appears as it did originally. A section of the bricks housing bullet holes is still intact, according to the guide. Inside were paintings of Mandela and a number of photographs. Pictures of wife Minnie being arrested were on display. I thought it interesting how Minnie still owns the place and the
commercial benefits that flow from it -- kind of like how the family of the late Martin Luther King Jr.
reap profit rewards from MLK historical sights and rights to his name.


Just around the corner from the Mandela Family Museum is the Hector Pieterson Memorial and, even closer to Mandela's house, the spot where Pieterson actually fell. Hector Pietersen Monument commemorates the student uprisings of 1976.




Hector Pietersen (1964 – 16 June 1976) became the conic image of the 1976 Soweto uprising in apartheid South Africa when a news photograph by Sam Nzima of the dying Hector being carried by a fellow student, was published around the world. He was killed at the age of 12 when the police opened fire on protesting students. For years, June 16 stood as a symbol of resistance to the brutality of the apartheid government.

Today, it is known as National Youth Day — a day on which South Africans honor young people and bring attention to their needs. On a stone monument is an enlarged image of the famous photograph of the dying lad being carried by a fellow student. Our local guide expounded on the event by yet another
stone monument, which had later been dedicated by Mandela. We were escorted inside the museum building to view exhibits, but no photography was allowed. Once known only for its shantytowns, the African entrepreneurial spirit is sparking develop-ment and change, and the area is now home to many successful business people and boasts upscale neighborhoods.


As we moved on, though, we passed squatter housing.

A little further was government housing buildings constructed to improve lives. Residents given these homes pay no rent, just utilities. The list for those requesting these units is very long, according to Anne. This evening we enjoyed an orientation meeting with Anne in the LaChouette Room followed by a Welcome Dinner at the Milner’s Restaurant on the premises of our hotel.

Lodging: Sunnyside Park Hotel

After our tour of Zimbabwe, Namibia, Zambia  and Botswana we came back to South Africa.



Day 9 May 22 Friday

Flight to Cape Town from Victoria Falls

Well, we finally boarded our bus for the airport. Our flights took 5 hours, 55 minutes (including a 2-hour layover in Johannesburg so we arrived in Cape Town (map) late afternoon.

Cape Town (Afrikaans: Kaapstad) is the second most populous city in South Africa, forming part of the metropolitan municipality of the City of Cape Town. It is the provincial capital of the Western Cape, as well as the legislative capital of South Africa, where the National Parliament and many government offices are located. Cape Town is one of the most popular South African destinations for tourism. As of 2007 the city had a population of 3.5 million. Colored people account for 48.13% of the population,
followed by Black Africans at 31%, Whites at 18.75%, and Asians at 1.43%. The median age in the city is 26 years old, and for every 100 females, there are 92.4 males. 19.4% of city residents are unemployed; 58.3% of the unemployed are black, 38.1% are Colored, 3.1% are White and 0.5% are Asian. 76.6% of
residents are Christian, 10.7% have no religion, 9.7% are Muslim, 0.5% are Jewish and 0.2% are Hindu. 2.3% have other or undetermined beliefs.


Located on the shore of Table Bay, Cape Town was originally developed by the Dutch East India Company as a supply station for Dutch ships sailing to Eastern Africa, India, and the Far East. Cape Town quickly outgrew its original purpose as the first European outpost at the Castle of Good Hope, becoming the economic and cultural hub of the Cape Colony. Until the Witwatersrand Gold Rush and the development of Johannesburg, Cape Town was the largest city in South Africa.




We transferred to our hotel The Cullinan where we received the expected welcome drink. Even though it was dark outside, I ventured out to take video of the entrance area. Next I took in the reception and lobby. This place was really nice. Lowest price offered on line was $100 plus taxes per night. Elegant
and stylish, The Cullinan is located in the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront area of town, a lively area replete with restaurants, bars, and shopping, as well as the aquarium and museums. One reviewer wrote (March, 2009): “This hotel was just fabulous. When we first arrived the foyer was just superb - it was like the scene of the stairs from Titanic! There was a harpist playing classical in the foyer and the atmosphere was very relaxing.”


Day 10 May 23 Saturday --- Cape Town

After a 6:30 am wake-up call and 7 am buffet breakfast, I went down to the lobby area to check out our tour bus. Wonderful piano music reverberated through the reception area. Quite often we found the same gentleman playing soft music on the baby grand piano.


The doorman, dressed with a long coat and top hat greeted visitors. Classy atmosphere!

We boarded our bus at 8 am for the city tour. Vantage has no assigned seats and we could sit anywhere – just so we shifted around to share front seats. Our group was small enough so there were always empty seats.

We started out on Cullinan Street and headed downtown to Adderley Street where we turned at the central fountain to drive past the Jan & Maria van Riebeeck Statues. Cape Town's founder, Jan van Riebeeck, is immortalized in an imposing statue. The figure stands on the spot where Van Riebeeck
was thought to have landed in 1652 (not shoreline today because of land fill). It was sculpted by John Tweed and donated to the city by Cecil John Rhodes, a politician and financier of the late 19th century.




We proceeded on to the Castle of Good Hope where the bus pulled over for a photo stop. The Castle of Good Hope is a star fort that was built on the original coastline of Table Bay and now, because of land reclamation, seems nearer the centre of Cape Town, South Africa. Built by the Vereenigde Ost-Indische Compagnie 'VOC' between 1666 and 1679, the Castle is the oldest building in South Africa. It replaced an older fort called the Redout Duijnhoop that was made out of clay and timber and built in 1652 by Jan van Riebeeck upon his arrival at the Cape. The purpose of both was to act as a replenishment station for
ships passing the treacherous coast around the Cape on long voyages between the Netherlands and the Dutch East Indies.


Then, we passed by the Cape Town City Hall. It is a large Edwardian building in Cape Town City Centre, which was built in 1905. It is located on the Grand Parade to the west of the Castle and is built from honey-colored oolitic limestone imported from Bath in England. The City Hall no longer houses the administration of the City of Cape Town, which is now located in the Cape Town Civic Centre. On February 11, 1990, only hours after his release from prison, Nelson Mandela made his first public speech from the balcony of Cape Town City Hall.




The city of Cape Town, despite not being the capital of South Africa, is home to South Africa’s Parliament - Cape Town is the legislative capital, whilst the seat of government is in Pretoria, the administrative capital which is one of the biggest drawing cards to this city under the mountain.




We drove by the Jan Smuts Statue on Adderley Street and the nearby St. George Episcopal Cathedral. Jan Smuts was one of the greatest South African military strategists and statesmen of the colonial era. He was a general for the Boers in the Anglo-Boer war, a field marshal for the Allies during World War Two, and Prime Minister of South Africa twice.


St George’s Episcopal Cathedral kept its doors open to people of all races throughout the apartheid era, and it was Archbishop Desmond Tutu, after he led a mass demonstration of 30 000 people to Grand Parade in 1989, who coined the phrase ‘rainbow people’ to describe South Africa’s diverse population. Last time I visited Cape Town I had a snack in the church basement coffee house. Earlier when I was seeking this site on a solo walking tour (against the advice of my cab driver), four men attempted to
mug me. I fought them off and saved my billfold.


After we passed the Botanical Gardens of Cape Town our driver took up to the ticketing area for the a cable car ride to the top of Table Mountain. Table Mountain is a flat-topped mountain forming a
prominent landmark overlooking the city. We packed into the cable car and began the ride upward. The floor of the cable car slowly rotated 360 degrees so that everyone could get a panoramic view. As we ascended the mount, we saw climbers working their way up the steep slope. What a wonderful view from the top! I purchased a T-shirt and tie for R174 ($21.24US from bank account).


Back in our bus we passed through the Cape Maly Quarter, which largely retains its original appeal of steep cobbled streets and brightly colored buildings built in the traditional fashion, interspersed with mosques for worship. Many of these people intermingled over the following years with the indigenous Khoi San people and the Dutch. The term Colored refers or referred to an ethnic group of people who possess sub-Saharan African ancestry, but not enough to be considered Black under the law of South Africa.


Virtually all Cape Town Colored are bi- lingual. Most Colored lead westernized lifestyles and they are overwhelmingly Christians. However in the case of Cape Maly, the Muslim faith is quite strong.



We were a little behind schedule so Anne said we should ask for “takeaways” (like pancakes) at the waterfront restaurants and eat on the boat. At 1 pm our boat left the V&A Waterfront for a tour of Robben Island, the Alcatraz-like prison where Nelson Mandela was held captive for 17 years. The wind aboard the craft was a little chilly for some, but the large enclosed lower deck was quite comfortable.



On the shore of the island we could view large billboard like photos depicting the apartheid era hardships.



Our bus guide was a former inmate who provided a first-hand account of life at the former prison. On my previous tour we traveled in an old rickety bus and everything was poorly managed, but now our bus was quite modern and the presentations much better. Anne hinted that we should take the information with a grain of salt. Our guide, in my mind, did a little embellishment (not that he had to, for the terrible events spoke for themselves).




Under the apartheid made even conversation difficult. The only reading material allowed was the Bible. Guards had a consistent unofficial policy of discouraging anyone from teaching illiterate political prisoners how to read. One of the first stops for our driver was the Robert Sobukwe House. Robert Sobukwe had been due for release, but instead was transported to Robben Island, where he stayed in 24-hour solitary confinement in the house on the left for six years. The other buildings are kennels that housed the Prison's guard dogs.


Next stop was at the limestone quarry. The limestone quarry was used for hard labor of maximum-security prisoners like Mandela. Conditions were harsh – limestone dust caused lung damage, the rock was blindingly bright in direct sunlight. Rock was broken from the quarry face manually, and then broken down into small pieces to be used as road gravel. The cave in the video was used as a latrine but served as a meeting place for political discussions among prisoners.


After a lengthy lecture we were taken to Mandela’s cell. Nelson Mandela was imprisoned on Robben Island where he remained for the next eighteen of his twenty-seven years in prison. Mandela's No. 7 cell was repainted, but the blankets and bowls he used are still there, as is the bucket he used as a toilet and had to empty every morning. Prison conditions were very basic. Prisoners were segregated by race, with black prisoners receiving the fewest rations. Political prisoners were kept separate from ordinary criminals and received fewer privileges. Mandela describes how, as a D-group prisoner (the lowest classification) he was allowed one visitor and one letter every six months. Letters, when they came, were often delayed for long periods and made unreadable by the prison censors.


Included dinner tonight was held at the mezzanine level of our hotel The Cullinan.


Day 11 May 24 Sunday –-- Cape Town

The “Peach Tree” breakfast at the hotel was great because the variety was so extensive.


At 8 am we left for the full day tour of the Cape of Good Hope, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Just as we departed the hotel we came across the construction site of Greenpoint Stadium in Cape Town, Western Cape, is being specially built for 2010, with a retractable roof and a capacity of 68 000. The new stadium is being built within walking distance of the city's popular Victoria and Alfred Waterfront at a cost of R2.5bn.



Our journey southward led to Fish Hoek (where I had stayed with Saga Tours) and Simon’s Town. We had break time at the latter for shopping and visiting a famous statue of a dog. Just Nuisance the Great Dane was enlisted into the Royal Navy on 25 August 1939. He was registered with the Christian name of “Just”, his trade was “Bone Crusher” and the Religious Denomination assigned to him was “Scrounger”. As a full fledged member of the Navy Just Nuisance received the same benefits including a sailor's bed and seaman's hat.



Nearby was the Boulders Beach Penguin Reserve, home to over 3000 African (Jackass) penguins. The bus parking spot was considerable distance from the wooden walkways and observation points, but the walk did us good. Boulder Beach gets its name from the huge granite boulders that create small sheltered
bays on the beach. The little penguins looked like gentlemen waddling about in tuxedoes.



Moving further southward down the Cape we reached the famous Cape of Good Hope The Cape of Good Hope (Portuguese: Cabo da Boa Esperança) is a rocky headland on the Atlantic coast of South Africa. There is a very common misconception that the Cape of Good Hope is the southern tip of Africa and the dividing point between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, but in fact the southernmost point is Cape Agulhas, about 90 mi. to the southeast.


However, when following the coastline from the equator, the Cape of Good Hope marks the psychologically important point where one begins to travel more eastward than southward. Thus the rounding of the cape in 1488 was a major milestone in the attempts by the Portuguese to establish direct
rade relations with the Far East.


And then to Cape Point, a short drive away. This is the end of the peninsula and it was marked with a quaint lighthouse. A lighthouse was built in 1857. However, because of its high position, clouds and fog often obscured the lighthouse it was moved. After the Portuguese liner Lusitania ran aground on 18 April 1911, the lighthouse was moved to its present location above Cape Point, only 87 meters above
sea-level. Unfortunately, we were not able to take the funicular to the top for a closer look at the lighthouse and the water below. The mechanism’s battery had not been sufficiently charged overnight and there was not enough power to operate the lift.


Some chose to walk the walk, but because I had already taken the trek on an earlier trip, decided to take in lunch at the nearby Two Ocean Restaurant. I joined fellow travelers for fish (hake) and chips for a
reasonable R86 ($10.46US from my bank account).


Others had richer tastes


The waitresses joined together to entertain us with African songs topping off a great meal. From the parking lot we were able to spot Cape antelopes and various birds.


As we drove away from Cape Point we came across a number of Chacma Baboons, some of which approached cars for food. Anne stressed quite strongly that the animals should not be fed and that contact with them should be avoided.

The most exciting animal sighting was that of the rare Cape Mountain Zebras.

Our bus passed by the Cape Ostrich Farm, a  farm that I had visited on an earlier trip. Enclosed yards along our highway separated the birds by age.


We returned to our hotel The Cullinan for an evening at leisure. Dinner was on our own so I drew on my stored apple saved from breakfast for such a purpose.


Day 12 May 25 Monday --- Cape Town

Peach Tree buffet breakfast at the hotel provided the usual good quality. Today was a day of leisure so we were in no rush. An optional tour of South Africa’s wine country, with wine tasting and a visit to
the town of Stellenbosch was offered, but I had taken this tour during my last visit to South Africa. Joe and Celline opted out, too, so they could join me on a trip to the Victoria and Albert Waterfront. The hotel offered a free shuttle bus to take us over there. Where we were dropped off would be the location for picking up a return trip shuttle. The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, built on top of part of the docks of the Port of Cape Town, is one of the city's most popular shopping venues, with several hundred shops and the Two Oceans Aquarium. Part of the charm of the V&A, as it is locally known, is that the Port
continues to operate and visitors can watch ships enter and leave. The three of us entered the complex where we earlier had when heading out to Robben Island. We crossed the swing bridge after a sailboat had just crossed into the harbor.

A street band was belting out tunes. When Joe left to exchange money at a nearby bank, Celline and I listened to the music.


Since lunch was on our own, I suggested a fish and chip place that I had used 10 years ago --- the Fisherman’s Choice, located off a harbor dock.


I ordered the battered hake and fries and it was just as good as I had remembered. Vinegar and tartar sauce enhanced the flavor. Sea gulls sat on the tables and railings of the open-air dinning area. We explored around a number of craft shops, stopping only for a coffee break.


When we returned to our hotel we sat out on the patio by the reflecting pond and enjoyed the cool breeze.

Lodging: The Cullinan


Day 13 May 26 Tuesday ---Cape Town
Durban, Kwa Zulu Natal

Our early bird 6:30 am breakfast buffet was included. Porters collected our luggage by the room doors at 8:30 am. We gathered in the lobby for the airport transportation at 9:30 am. The flight to Durban departed at 12 pm and I had a terrific view from the plane window of the Ocean frontage along the coast east of the Cape. The range of sand dunes that ran parallel to the east-west coastline appeared clearly on my video. Friendly stewardesses passed out snack lunches on board before we arrived at 1:55 pm.


Upon arrival we enjoyed a panoramic city tour of Durban. It is the largest city in KwaZulu-Natal and is famous as the busiest port in Africa. The city has a population of almost 3.5 million.


Little is known of the history of the first residents, as there is no written history of the area before it was first mentioned by Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, who came to the KwaZulu-Natal coast while
searching for a route from Europe to India. He landed on the KwaZulu-Natal coast on Christmas in 1497, and thus named the area "Natal", or Christmas in Portuguese.


The modern city of Durban dates from 1824, when a party of 25 men under British Lieutenant F. G. Farewell arrived from the Cape Colony and established a settlement on the northern shore of the Bay of Natal, near today's Farewell Square. Accompanying Farewell was an adventurer named Henry Francis Fynn (1803-1861). I asked Anne if we could stop at the square, but she aid no-- that it would be difficult (and politically incorrect). Our bus did drive past the square though,




Fynn was able to befriend the Zulu King Shaka by helping him to recover from a stab wound he
suffered in battle. As a token of Shaka's gratitude, he granted Fynn a "25-mile strip of coast a hundred
miles in depth." In 1827, Nandi King Shaka's mother died, prior to her death Farewell had obtained Shaka's permission to establish a peace treaty between the British Empire and the Zulu Kingdom, but it failed. The following year, King Shaka had turned insane after the death of Nandi, he had many of his people massacred, totaled up to 7000 dead, by September the King's brothers, Dingane and Umthlangana had plotted with Shaka's advisor Mbopa to assassinate Shaka, they succeeded in killing Shaka, and Dingane became king of the Zulu. Farewell was at Port Natal, when in 1829 there was unrest and in an ambush, Farewell and a few men were killed. During a meeting of 35 white residents in Fynn's territory on June 23, 1835, it was decided to build a capital town and name it "d'Urban" after Sir Benjamin d'Urban, then governor of the Cape Colony.



The British established a sugar cane industry in the 1860s. Our guide pointed out sugar mills in Durban. Farm owners had a difficult time attracting Zulu laborers to work on their plantations, so the British brought thousands of indentured laborers from India on five-year contracts. As a result of the importation of Indian laborers, Durban became the largest Asian community in South Africa, which explains why Gandhi came to Durban (more later).



The City Tour allowed a stop at the Victoria Street Market (#18 on the previous map) at City Centre.
Joe, Celline and I used the stop to walk over to the Emmanuel Cathedral and the nearby Juma Masjid. For some reason the Cathedral is not on previous map, but if it were it would have been placed between #18 and # 15. The Emmanuel Cathedral was built in 1904 and had been renovated. This Roman Catholic Church displayed a fine example of the late Gothic Revival style of architecture. A combined use of red face brick and roughcast plaster were used on the exterior, all of which is covered by a roof of Marseilles tiles with wide overhanging eaves.



After we viewed the exterior we tried to get inside the building. We ended up walking all around the
building before finding an unlocked door. Celline had to ask how we could get in. The effort was worth
it because the interior was beautiful. The Cathedral's stained glass windows were brought over from
France, while the "stations of the cross" (a depiction of Christ's crucifixion) were carved from Italian
marble, given as a gift from the wife of Napoleon III, Empress Eugenie. These carvings are similar to the stations found in Sacre Coure de Montmarte in Paris. The high altar was donated by veterans of the First World War, and is a reproduction of the Liverpool Cathedral's altar, which was destroyed during the Second World War.


Before returning to our tour group, we looked over the unique exterior of Juma Masjid (#15). This is the largest mosque in the Southern hemisphere and it dominates Durban's central Indian district. Its gilt-domed minarets tower over the bustling commercial area. Around the mosque, on Grey Street, are several Indian food outlets. We thought it strange that these businesses seemed like a part of the mosque
itself.



Satisfied with our extra curricular activities, we went back to the brightly painted Victoria Street Market (on the corner of Queen and Russell streets) which offering incense, henna tattoos, spices and other exotic goods. Celline purchased some hot Indian spices to take home.



On schedule, our group loaded up on the bus and we continued our city tour. From the moving bus Anne pointed out the massive City Hall (1910, Renaissance style) #32 on the map. It faces the square. Diagonally opposite - in West Street, corner of Gardiner Street - lays Durban's second National Monument from the colonial times. The Victorian building used to be the Town Hall from 1885 to 1910
and today serves as the Main Post Office.

Outside the main buildings there are numerous street vendors selling local medicines, which include all manner of lotions, potions as well as animal skeletons and whole monkey heads. See p. 381 of Lonely Planet South Africa, with city map on p. 382.



Then we came across Durban’s new Moses Mabhida Stadium, designed as a state-of-the-art, world-class stadium for the 2010 FIFA World Cup. The structure will hold 70,000 spectators.



Our coach then headed over to the waterfront for a ride along the spectacular oceanfront road known as the “Golden Mile (see map).” It runs roughly from South Beach (where the uShaka Marine World is located) to the newly constructed Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World in the north. Most of the
Mile's beaches are protected year-round by lifeguards and shark nets.


We were now on the way to the resort town of Umhlanga Rocks. Near Umhlanga Rocks is Phoenix (See map), an Indian residential area named after the Gandhi commune. Our hotel has a large red asterisk and Phoenix is just to the left of it. I asked Anne if this was walking distance from our hotel, but she said it would be too far. I was disappointed to miss this, but one has to realize that Vantage Travel has to limit
the number of things to see in a carefully constructed itinerary.



Gandhi, of course, played a major role in South Africa’s history. Mohandas Gandhi arrived in Durban on 23 May 1893 to help with a court case. Just before Gandhi was to return to India, he had to travel to Johannesburg on business. He booked a first-class train ticket and was ordered out of the train because of
his color. This experience made Gandhi decide to remain in Natal and help the growing community of Indians imported to work on the sugar plantations. During his stay here he engaged in peaceful confrontation in the struggle for equality, justice and human dignity. His non-violent strategy was conceived as Satyagraha - the technique of non-violent action for rectifying injustices and righting
wrongs. Gandhi was involved in the formation of two political institutions. In 1894 he founded the Natal Indian Congress. Gandhi established the Transvaal-based British Indian Association nine years later in 1903. During the same year Gandhi began publishing the weekly Indian Opinion, which, from 1904, was printed at Phoenix, 20 km north of Durban, where he had started a communal farming project for
Indians.


Our coach pulled up to the impressive Beverly Hills Hotel, set on a rise overlooking the Indian Ocean An artistic water fountain graced the entrance. We filed in for the customary welcome drinks. We were
welcomed to our rooms with a complementary bottle of South African red wine and a basket of fruit. We even had a beautiful flower floating in a bowl of clear water.


Each room had a balcony with a commanding view of the ocean waterfront below. This Superior InterContinental First-Class Beverly Hills Hotel at Umhlanga Rocks was not cheap. The cost per night
on line for a single would be $329 US plus 14% tax. Vantage must have worked out a great deal.



The Vantage optional 7 pm dinner tonight was Indian fare at the Kashmir Restaurant. The establishment
was so close we just walked over there. I thought it very fitting to celebrate with the flavor of India. Joe
and Celline signed up, too. Joe said he was glad he did. I saved room for the fancy desserts, which included my favorite – pecan pie.


Day 14 May 27 Wednesday --- Zulu Natal

Breakfast at the hotel was very good, as usual. The staff overlooked nothing. Since we did not have to
leave for the day’s activity until 8:45 am we could eat quite leisurely.


We were in Zulu country and looked forward to experiencing a recreated traditional kraal, or “Zulu” settlement. The drive took us through the rolling countryside. Our particular destination was called Phezulu. The setting was beautiful with thatched huts overlooking the hills. Our Vantage group was ushered into a large hut where we sat in semi-darkness around the circular walls.

A Zulu woman gave a presentation on Zulu culture before we were taken to the tribal dancing area.



This woman and most of the dancers were very dark skinned. Generally the Zulu are described as having relatively light skin. A large group of Zulu students (with relatively light skin) were on a field trip and comprised the majority of those watching the tribal dances. Dancing and singing is very much a part of the lifestyle of the Zulu people, and each dance formation or movement symbolizes an event or happening within the clan.



There is the rhythmical dance of the small shield, the fiery motivation body movements of the hunting dance, the symbolizing of the tidal ebb and flow in the Umbhekuzo, the snakelike motion of the umchwayo and the challenging war dance /umghubha) with traditional shield and spear.


Many of the dances performed by the men seemed to be concerned with weaponry and strength. The history of the Zulu reflects a warlike militancy. I found the following account on the Zulu. Zulu tribes were warlike, and conflicts could start from everything: cattle stealing, border violations, pasture usurpation. The wars were violent and short: the attackers surrounded the enemy village during the night and at the sunrise they hastened towards the inhabitants of the village, launching loud yells to cause panic.


At the beginning of the 19th century, the Zulu chief Shaka converted the Zulus into a military power, with an organization relied on armies grouped on age categories and perfectly disciplined and trained.



This way, the Zulus dominated all the neighboring areas and could reunite an army of 100,000 troops that stood victorious against the Whites in various occasions. In the fight with one of the successors of
Shaka, Chitiwayo, the son of the French emperor Napoleon III was killed.


After the dancing performance concluded, we spent time in the gift shop and then were led to the Crocodile Center. Here a young, but relatively experienced, guide gave us interesting insights on crocodiles. He jumped right in with the creatures, armed only with a long stick that he used to give them a little prodding.




The animals were segregated according to size, disposition (troublemakers) and age. These creatures appeared to be lazy and lethargic, but the guide had them demonstrate how they could quickly react when provoked. He explained that when a crocodile battles another animal, it hangs on the victim, spins
it and drags it underwater to drown. These reptiles lie around a lot and enjoy sunning themselves for hours. Because of their low metabolism rate, they require very little food and they can live very long lives. One large fellow we saw had been born in 1905.


Lunchtime arrived. My stomach was a better guide than beating drums. I miss sounds but I don’t miss meals. Tables had been set up for us in a shaded area where we could eat traditional Zulu food. We started off with a bowl of very good warm chestnut squash soup. We piled our plates up with a variety of Zulu dishes. We had spinach quite often, but I never grew tired of it. Coming from a family of German heritage, I had hoped to see the Zulu beer drinking ceremony, but no such luck

Lodging: Beverly Hills Hotel



Day 15 May 28 Thursday --- Kwa Zulu
Natal / Kruger National Park


A special continental buffet breakfast this morning at 4:45 am was prepared by the hotel so we could depart for the airport at 5:15 am. At the airport we were split nto two groups. The larger group would
fly to Johannesburg and then re-board for a flight to Nelspruit. A select group of 5 (like in Big Five) were able to fly direct to Nelspruit on a smaller plane (10 rows of seats, 3 seats across) and thus avoid
much of the airport waiting and transfer time. I was in the lucky group that went directly to Nelspruit (map).


After our flight we motor coached (2 hours) to Kruger National Park. We checked in at the Protea Hotel Kruger Gate, the lodge closest to the park gate. See map on page 459 of Lonely Planet for location.


A sign greeted us warning that a leopard was sighted on the grounds and that escort service was available if requested.


The towering indigenous portico by the registration desk made us feel like being in the wilderness. Elevated wooden walkways led us to our rooms. This superior lodge style 4-Star Hotel on the banks of the Sabie River in Mpumalanga offered us a luxury getaway. I checked out the “would be costs” before the trip. The average nightly rate on line hotels.com) was $160.58 for a single.


That night the combined (reconnected) Vantage group was to have a 6:30 pm festive feast in the open air Lapa Restaurant under the African stars. A few us arrived early to peek at the chefs preparing our dinner. Then our gang waited outside the ornate gate for a welcome and beating drums announcing dinnertime. Seated amidst atmospheric fire lanterns we dug into our African fare. I especially liked the warthog and white fish.


Day 16 May 29 Friday --- Kruger Safari


After a more than adequate 6:30 am breakfast buffet we were ready to begin our dawn –to-dusk safari day. See Illustrated Safari Guide for Animals pp. 65-96 of Lonely Planet South Africa. The nearby entrance gate of Kruger Nation Park opens early during the month of May. Kruger stretches almost 350 km along the Mozambique border and has an average width of 60 km. Most of the park consists of grass and bush-covered plains (savanna bushveld), sometimes broken by rocky outcrops. There is a maximum threshold of vehicles that can enter the park daily. If this threshold is reached only visitors with pre- booked overnight accommodation will be permitted access. There are so many creatures to see and sightings of rare species can be the highlight of our trip. Five Things To Seek: The Big Five – Buffalo, Elephant, Leopard, Lion and Rhino.



Just inside the gate was an imposing bust of Paul Kruger, kind of like an invitation to the grounds. Even though Kruger was a driving force for setting aside land for public use, this stature will be removed.



Our driver guide was a little immature at times, but he was knowledgeable about SA wildlife and their habitat. His voice was loud and clear so all of us in the tiered jeep could understand him. Soon we crossed over the scenic Sabie River, a river very important as a gathering point for animals. The first character I recorded this morning was a cute monkey.



As we drove along our guide spotted a venomous snake. He stopped the jeep, picked up the snake for us all to see and then dropped him down in the grass to slither away.



Hippos swimming in a lake, giraffes among the trees, elephants in the bush and on the roadway, a herd of the much-feared water buffalo, distant rhinos and a variety of birds were spotted along the way.


For lunch we stopped at a park rest area that had a restaurant built within a sprawling tree. Vantage provided us with a buffet lunch here. I thought the chicken a little tough, but the food was adequate. Back on the trail, we spotted hippos lounging on the riverbank, munching giraffes, a stalking bustard and
grazing kudus (both male and female). At 4:30 pm we returned to the hotel.


Lodging: The Protea Hotel Kruger Gate


Day 17 May 30 Saturday --- Kruger Safari

We began with a 6 am buffet breakfast at the hotel because of a plan to leave early for the safari and to catch the active big cats. Joe didn’t join us today so I took his seat in front with the driver.


Reports of lion sighting earlier had been made, but arriving too late we saw little of any big cats. We were fortunate to see two lions in the bush resting, but only at a distance.



Better luck with zebras, wildebeest, water buffalo, elephants, rhinos (from a distance) and a resting herd of water buffalo.


We made a mid-day stop for lunch at the Wooden Banana. This eating-place within the park was quite different. The large circular dining area was covered with a cone-like thatched roof. All the seats were placed around the edge while the large central area was void of any tables. I soon found out why when I
looked up at the ceiling. Here were masses of bats hanging upside down. No doubt guano droppings influence the seating choices below.



Epaulatted Fruit Bats are associated with riparian vegetation along the major river drainages of Kruger National Park. During the dry season these bats are strongly dependent on fruits of the Sycomore or Cluster Fig trees. Specialists in cooperation with the Kruger National Park have made radio-telemetry studies of these fruit bats living along the Sabie River at Skukuza Camp.



After finishing off my R19.95 ham and cheese sandwich, I headed back to my safari jeep. We continued along the Sabie River until we came across a large Rhino. He was busy grazing. Further along we came across an elephant and a lizard. Our late afternoon efforts really yielded little. We had expected to catch lions in the trees, but they were not to be found. Personally, I think we left too soon to catch this activity.


At 6:30 pm tonight we were treated to a formal Farewell Dinner at the hotel. The tables were covered with white linen and graced with candles and bottles of wine. I had chosen the white fish selection and was not disappointed.


After the dinner we were entertained by a group of young animated African singers.



Lodging: The Protea Hotel Kruger Gate


Day 18 May 31 Sunday and Day 19 Monday

---Air travel

All good things must come to an end and now we faced the long flight home. Our bus driver dropped us off at Nelspruit for the flight to Johannesburg From Johannesburg we flew forever to reach Dulles Airport in Washington DC.

Did we discover what we came to find in Africa?

I would answer with a happy face.