2007 Great Rivers II Wurzburg, Bamburg, Nuremburg, Regensburg & Vienna

Monday, DAY 8, March 19th Wertheim
City Tour/Glass Blowing Demonstration
Home-Hosted Visit

We disembarked this morning for a walking tour of Wertheim (see map), acharming fairy-tale town (population 25,000) located at the confluence of the Main and Tauber Rivers Wertheim was founded between the 7th and 8th century, however the first settlement was a town called Kreutzwertheim on the right of the river Main. From the early 12th century onwards, a branch of the noble family of the Reginbodons called themselves after the town. After the family of the earls of Wertheim had built a castle on the left bank of the river Main, a settlement developed at the foot of this dominating structure that was called Wertheim. During the Thirty Years’ War, Sweden had taken this town more than once.

Just a short distance and we came to the Spitzer Turm, a tower at the” point,” that dates back to 1200. We strolled down Maingasse to the Markplatz. The setting was charming, but the more important sites lay ahead on the next block on Schulgasse.

The Engelsbrunnen (Angels' well) from 1574 was built of the red sandstone typical of this area and derives its name from the two little angels, which hold Wertheim’s coat of arms.

Behind it can be seen the church tower of the Gothic Protestant Stiftskirche (1383). I zoomed in on the one-handed clock, then panned the church, and led the video to the Hohenburg Castle or Burg Wertheim above it). The story is that the clock was thus arranged so that the castle residents could see it. To our left was the Kilianskapelle, one of the finest examples of gothic-style chapels in Germany. It was under construction from 1469 onwards. The door was locked and it was dark inside, but our guide inserted a coin by the door and the interior lit up. It was then possible to take pictures through the grates in the door.

We turned our attention to the nearby Tauber River. The river appeared calm and peaceful, but our guide said it could (and did) work havoc on the city when the water backed up as it entered the Main. The Kittsteintor here had flood markings from 1595 onwards. I returned to the River Harmony and took a parting shot at the Hohenburg Castle hovering over the city.

Exclusive Discovery Series Event Over the centuries, Germany has developed a rich tradition of glass making. That’s largely because the region is blessed with an abundance of the raw materials needed for glass production: silicon and wood. In the 17th century, Bohemian artisans invented crystal. This incandescent glass, often decorated with gold or tin, eventually overtook Venetian glass in popularity on the world markets.






WANT TO BYPASS THE FOLLOWING HISTORY OF THE 30 TEARS WAR? JUST SKIP IT -- THE REGULAR JOURNAL AND PHOTOS CONTINUE BELOW IT.

For this particular trip in Germany an understanding of the Thirty Year’s War would have been useful if one did not have the historical background. So many sites visited were affected by that warfare. Better understanding of the causes of the conflict might have helped travelers understand not only the religious conflicts but also the major dynastic and political aspects that explain why Catholic France joined Lutheran Sweden in fighting the Catholic Austrian Hapsburgs. An acquaintance with the major figures might help individuals better appreciate talks by the guides when the names pop up. Useful information might include:

The Thirty Years' War was fought between 1618 and 1648, principally on the territory of today's Germany, and involved most of the major European continental powers. There were four major phases: the Bohemian Revolt, the Danish intervention, the Swedish intervention, and the French intervention.

Causation:
As for the religious factor, the previous Peace of Augsburg (1555) created only a temporary end to hostilities, it did not solve the underlying bases of the religious conflict. Both parties interpreted it at their convenience, the Lutherans in particular considering it only a momentary agreement. Further, Calvinism spread quickly throughout Germany, adding a third major Christian worldview to the region, but its position was not supported in any way by the Augsburg terms, since Catholicism and Lutheranism were the only permitted creeds. This explains why sometimes Lutherans were in conflict with Calvinists.


Political and economic tensions grew among many of the powerful nations of Europe as the Austrian Habsburg extended themselves deeper into weak Germany territories. France was threatened by two surrounding Habsburg states (Spain and the Holy Roman Empire), Lutheran Sweden and Denmark were interested in gaining control over northern German states bordering the Baltic Sea.


The Holy Roman Empire, encompassing Germany and most of the neighboring lands, was a fragmented collection of independent states ranging from superpowers like the Austrian House of Habsburg (including also Bohemia and Hungary), with some eight million subjects); national states like Bavaria, Electoral Saxony, the Margravate of Brandenburg, the Palatinate, Hesse, the Archbishopric of Trier and Württemberg to a wide series of minor independent duchies, free cities, abbeys, bishoprics, down to petty lords whose authority extended to no more than a single village.

Ignition – the spark
Ferdinand II, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Bohemia (who was educated by Jesuits) became intolerant of the Protestants -- this was the proximate cause of the war in 1618. Bohemian Hussites (Protestants) then seized two Catholic envoys in Prague subjected them to a mock trial, and threw them out of the palace window that was some 70 feet off the ground. The Catholic version of the story claims that angels appeared and carried them to safety, while the Protestant version says that they landed in a pile of manure that saved their lives. The Spanish sent an army from Brussels to support the Emperor.

Names and events:
Count of Tilly was commander of the Bavarian and Imperial armies.King Christian IV of Denmark. General of the Lutheran army; later Gustavus Adolphus. Catholic general Albrecht von Wallenstein was a hired mercenary.

Wallenstein pledged his army of between 30,000 and 100,000 soldiers to Ferdinand II in return for the right to plunder the captured territories. Christian IV, who knew nothing of Wallenstein's existence when he invaded, was forced to retire before the combined forces of Wallenstein and Tilly.

King Gustaf II Adolf (Gustavus Adolphus) attacked the Empire and prevailed in a number of significant battles. Also like Christian IV, Richelieu, the Chief Minister of King Louis XIII of France, subsidized Gustavus Adolphus. From 1630–1634, they drove the Catholic forces back and regained much of the occupied Protestant lands.













Wallenstein and Gustavus Adolphus clashed in the Battle of Lützen (1632), where the Swedes prevailed, but Gustavus Adolphus was killed. In 1634 the Protestant forces, minus the leadership of Gustavus Adolphus, were defeated at the First Battle of Nördlingen.

In this map the military campaign of Gustavus Adolphus is indicated with a blue arrow.

Ferdinand II's suspicions of Wallenstein flared up again in 1633, when Wallenstein attempted to arbitrate the differences between the Catholic and Protestant sides. Ferdinand II may have feared that Wallenstein would switch sides and arranged for his arrest after removing him from command. One of Wallenstein's soldiers, Captain Devereux, killed Wallenstein as he attempted to contact the Swedes in the town hall of Eger (Cheb) in 1634.

An agreed upon treaty failed to satisfy France, because of the renewed strength it granted the Hapsburgs. France then launched the last period of the Thirty Years' War. Although a Catholic clergyman himself, Cardinal Richelieu allied France with the Protestants. Catholic Spain (green arrow), in retaliation, invaded French territory.

The results
Finally the Peace of Westphalia of 1648: One result of the war was the enshrinement of Germany divided among many territories. Spain was finally forced to accept the independence of the Dutch Republic in 1648. France became the dominant power in Europe. The Thirty Years' War marked the last major religious war in mainland Europe, ending large-scale religious bloodshed in 1648. There were still religious conflicts but no great wars. The war did much to end the age of mercenaries and ushered in the age of well-disciplined national armies.

Exclusive Discovery Series Event
In the early afternoon, we visited with a local family to learn about the life of a German family. We started out in three buses with each bus dropping off groups of seven or eight throughout the countryside. The home our particular group visited had been a farm homestead with an attached barn. The backyard was quite large and with the neighbors’ yards it took on the appearance of a commons. Our hostess said the house her family lives in had been the boyhood home of her husband. Her mother and father lived nearby and still farmed. She gave us a tour of the house, in which she took great pride, and explained how it had been enlarged to accommodate her growing children. Unlike in the states, these people did not move very often and stayed pretty much in the local area. After our tour of the home, we sat down for coffee and very tasty cake. We were made to feel very welcomed. Others on our bus expressed similar sentiments.

Tuesday, DAY 9. March 20th Wurzburg
(Pearl of the Romantic Road) City Tour


In the early morning, we started sailing from Wertheim (top of river map( to Wurzburg (center of river map), arriving at our destination in the early afternoon.

Our first order of business was to tackle the Residenz (lower right on the city map). Although the splendid Baroque episcopal

Residenz (built 1719–44 by Balthasar Neumann) was damaged in WWII, its grand staircase, with famous frescoes by Giovanni Tiepolo, survived. After the war, U.S. soldiers helped cover a gaping hole in the ceiling that made this preservation possible. The structure was the last and finest in a line of Baroque palaces built in Bavaria. The residence and its gardens and square were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981.

The exterior of this magnificent building reminded me of the Blenheim Palace inEngland (although they are not on an equal par), with its symmetrical wings and general appearance. It too had a grand entranceway and reception hall. The large sculpture and fountain in the courtyard was interesting so I taped it.

I wanted to use my camcorder inside the building, but that was verboten. The interior was very lavish and led one to think it came about at the expense of many for the benefit of a few. The massive chandeliers, furniture and 400 year-old tapestry wee removed during WW II and hidden, some furniture so well hidden they still have yet to be found. The reason for its construction and elaborate décor was that the bishop prince wanted to movefrom the old castle to keep up with the Jones of the world. He wanted to have a palace like that at Versailles.

When we stepped outside the building, I turned my camcorder toward the Fortress Marienberg (constructed 1200-1600) across the river.. The round church within the courtyard of the fortress is one of the oldest churches extant in Germany (706). This castle was on a hill overlooking the whole town area as well as the surrounding hills. The massive fortress was the seat of the Prince-Bishops from the mid 13th C. until the construction of the Residenz. In 1631, Swedish King Gustavus Adolphus invaded the town and destroyed the castle

Our bus took us westward from the Residenz to a drop off point near the Cathedral (Dom on previous map above). We approached the Wurzburg Cathedral (11th-13th Century) from the rear.
Immediately north of the Wurzburg Cathedral is the Neumünsterkirche, with a Romanesque east end (11th and 13th C.) and a Baroque west end (1711-19). Our guide pointed out the nearby Bishop’s House, which was hardly a modest building.

Southwest of the Wurzburg Marktplatz, in Domstrasse, is the Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus; 13th-19th C.). I moved the camera from the Town Hall Tower to the market fountain in the foreground. The figures inthe fountain were unusual – the upright figure of a lady looked like Eve eating an apple and the bent over figure appeared as if a comic character. I later asked Rebecca (the blue dot guide) what it all meant and she explained that it was just a celebration for the water from the Main River.

We continued on to Würzburg's Old Main Bridge, built 1473–1543 to replace the destroyed Romanesque bridge. The Old Main Bridge (Alte Mainbrücke) was lined with Baroque statues of saints. The bridge offered a roadway to the Fortress Marienberg on the hill to the left. Our tour ended here on the bridge. We tipped our capable local guide and were on our own to reach the nearby River Harmony docked upstream.

I chose a different route. Rather than follow the river, I diverted my course to the south side of the old town to see the Old University (Alte University; 1582-92). In the west wing is part of the University Library, in the east wing the University Church, one of the few major German Renaissance churches (now adapted for use as a concert hall).

Once back on ship, I waited for the sun to subside so that I might tape westward and capture the beautiful Kappele, a picturesque pilgrimage chapel built by Bathasar Neumann in 1747-50. From the banks of the Main a steep and shady stepped lane with Stations of the Cross leads up to the chapel. The prominent onion shaped spires, so common along the Rhine, reflects the influence from the east. I moved the camerato the right to show the location relative to Fortress Marienberg

The evening was for relaxation. After dinner we had a guest accordion player, Harold Ooler, perform for us in the lounge. He played a wide range of music, including classical pieces. Later that night we resumed cruising the river to Hassfurt (lower right on map).
















Wednesday, DAY 10, March 21st Hassfurt
Optional Rothenburg Tour

The ship cruised on the Main River (map) up to Hassfurt, Germany. Some chose to stay on the ship and to visit Hassfurt. Most of us had signed up for a full-day optional tour (price: $75 per person) of Rothenburg. This lovely old town sits on the Tauber River and boasts undamaged 14th-century city walls and beautifully preserved fortifications. Rothenburg wasthe film location for the Vulgarian village scenes in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang film.

According to our Grand Circle booklet it seemed the city always made losing choices in political alliances. It supported the insurgents during the peasants War of 1525(right) ; it opposed Emperor Charles V in 1552, and was successfully besieged by the Catholic general Tilly in 1631.

Just outside the city walls we boarded a horse drawn carriage that took us through the St. Wolfgangkirche/Klingen bastion into the city and along a few streets for a leisurely first look at the town. Note the lightly falling snow.

We were dropped off at Schannenplatz, which was then designated as our evening meeting place. Our Grand Circle Guides then led their respective groups a short distance to the Town Hall Square. Since it was lunchtime we were ushered into the quaint Ratstube, a café facing the main square. Inside a true tavern atmosphere prevailed with hardwood chairs and tables, vaulted ceilings and pierced copper lanterns. We started off with a nice fresh salad, followed by a Franconian dish of meat and spaetzle, and concluded with apple strudel. The restrooms off the hallway were clean – and free.

Our afternoon walking tour started just outside with the Town Hall or Rathaus. This building had an older section from 1240 and a newer Renaissance structure facing the square. The new Rathaus, built in 1572 to replace the portion destroyed by fire, is decorated with intricate friezes,  an oriel extending the building’s full height, and a large stone portico opening onto the square.

We next mulled over the St. George Fountain (1608), with George slaying a dragon on top of it. To the left is the former "Meat and Dance House" (das Fleisch- und Tanzhaus), which stands on the southern end of the market square. It was constructed on the foundations of the city's older Town Hall, which burned in 1240. Until the 18th century, the basement, which now houses exhibitions of works by Rothenburg's numerous artists, was a market where butchers sold their wares. In the large room above the arches, the people of Rothenburg once celebrated their festiveoccasions with dances.

Behind the fountain was the Marienapotheke, the “Jagstheimer House”, built in 1488 for Mayor Jagstheimer. Emperor Maximillian I, the most prominent of the numerous noble guests, stayed here in 1513. The house has a decorative half-timbered gable with a picturesque oriel and a scenic courtyard containing richly ornamented gallery balustrades. Now privately owned, it is one of Rothenburg's most beautiful patrician houses.

On the opposite side (north) of the square is the City Councillors' Tavern (1446) (die Ratstrinkstube) --- indeed one of the most famous buildings in Rothenburg. It was accessible only to the city councilors. Especially noteworthy are the various clocks. The main clock was installed in 1683.

Beginning in 1910, the two windows located to the right and left of the town clock open every hour between 11.00 a.m. and 03.00 p.m. and between 08.00 p.m. and 10.00 p.m. to show the legendary "Master Draught" (der Meistertrunk). A legend goes back to the year 1631 in the midst of the Thirty Years War when Catholic troops attacked and occupied Protestant Rothenburg. The Catholic general, Tilly, threatened to plunder and destroy the city. On a whim he promised to spare the town from destruction if a Councilor could manage to empty an enormous tankard containing 3 1/4 liters of wine in one draught. The former mayor, Nusch, accomplished this task and by doing so saved his city. Even today Rothenburg celebrates this event each year on Whitsun with a festival performance, grand army march and a field camp. Today this building houses the Tourist Office.

Mert then led us down Herrngasse lined with splendid patrician houses to the Staudt House and Courtyard (das Staudtsches Haus und der Staudtscher Hof) opposite the Franciscan Church. Fine wrought iron window bars set in 1722 in the Baroque style decorate the attractive Staudt House. Inscriptions record some of the prominent guests who have stayed in this building: the Emperor Charles V and Ferdinand I, his brother and successor, as well as Marie Eleonore of Brandenburg.

Mert gathered the group at the fountain in front of the Franciscan Church. I was more interested in the Early Gothic church, begun in 1281 with construction continuing well into the 15th century.

We now reached the Altburg with the Burgtor (Castle Gate and Tower). After exiting the castle we headed for the Blasius Chapel and the castle garden. From here we had a magnificent view of the Tauber valley and the fortifications of the south side of town.

Now taking Burggasse we skirted the town walls to the Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum. The Kriminalmuseum is housed in a building built in 1395, but was redone in 1718 in the baroque style. This structure houses items such as chastity belts, shame masks, a shame flute for bad musicians and a cage for bakers who baked bread too small or too light. They even have old wooden barrels that drunks were made to wear as a form of punishment.

Remembering to pick up something for my wife Annette, I stopped in at the Friese Shop to purchase a silver necklace with an attached Cuckoo clock. Just outside the store was the well-known St. Jacobs (St. James) Lutheran Church. A group of young students gathered about the front entrance of this 1336 Gothic church. I surmised the reason they did not go inside was the admission charge.

The charge for me to enter was two euro. It didn’t seem right to have to pay to enter a church, but I think they resorted to this to finance the upkeep. Scaffolding indicated that a major project was underway. Once inside, I taped the large nave, ornate altar, aisle, beautiful wood carved pulpit (1854), vaulted ceiling and the organ (1968) with 5,000 pipes on the west end. I walked up to the high altar for better viewing and narrowed in on the excellent woodcarvings of Swabian master carvers. Most impressive was the crucifix with the four angels representing Faith and Prayer and Unbelief and Doubt.


In a way the church had features of a Reformed church -- with a row of notables crests (shields) on one side and a row of pictures of pastors on the other side. There was nothing else externally that would have been classified as Calvinistic. Yet, there was much in the church of the Roman Catholic traditions – images, votive candles, side chapels and shrines for relics.

The most notable shrine was up in the balcony -- the Altar of the Holy Blood by the famous Wurzburg sculptor Tilman Reimenschneider. The work was commissioned by the Rothenburg Council to provide a setting for the reliquary of the Holy Blood venerated in the Middle Ages (executed between 1499 and 1505). The alleged blood is contained in the rock-crystal capsule set in the cross (about 1270) in the center of the shrine.

When the bus was taking us back to the ship, we passed a highway sign pointing to Ulm, Germany that evoked memories. We met our ship docked at Hassfurt and the staff waiting for us. The evening sun over the Main River prompted a video shot. The day was well spent!





Thursday, DAY 11, March 22nd Bamberg
City Tour/Beer-tasting

This morning an American soldier stationed in Germany came aboard the Harmony at 8:30 to discuss military life here. During our travels we had seen military bases for our soldiers. Many were stationed here in Bamberg and we will see many more barracks later in Nuremberg. No doubt this arrangements pumps many dollars into the local economy.

Then by 9:30 we were ready for our walking tour of Bamberg. a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in AD 902, Bamberg began to prosper in the twelfth century and was the center of southern Germany's Enlightenment in the late 18th century. The great German philosopher Hegel lived here, and Bamberg was the second city (after Mainz) to introduce book printing.

Red, blue and gold groupies were left off by “Little Venice” on the side of the Lnker Regnitzam (little right of center on map). Mert took us golden people to the Gruner Marktplatz where I videoed the Neptune Fountain.

From here we walked to tourista sight number one -- the ancient City Town Hall (Altes Rathaus): Built in the middle of river 'Regnitz' it could only be reached via two stone bridges. We crossed the upper Alte Brucke that was decked out with impressive statues. The Rathaus had a Baroque facade on one side (right) and a half-timbered one on the other side. The view from the bridge was great with the river below and Little Venice in the background 'Little Venice' comprised of small half-timbered houses next to the riverbank. In earlier times, it was the home of Bamberg's fishermen. Here, too, was the large Butcher’s Shop.

Town authorities built the Town Hall on the island between the ecclesiastical and secular parts of the city so as not to play favorites. Another explanation given by Grand Circle Travel is that it was built on a man-made island because the bishop refused to provide any land – which probably says more about the constant tension between church and citizens than about the actual historical circumstances.

Inside the open gateway that went right through the building, we came across a marker paying tribute to Claus Stauffenberg, who in 1944 attempted to assassinate Hitler to prevent further destruction of Germany. Hitler survived and Claus paid the ultimate price. A short distance away we came upon a well restored pharmacy building that dated back to 1470.

Then came the huge Cathedral. Bamberg imperial cathedral (Kaiserdom) that goes back to the 11th century and was financed by Heinrich II, whose tomb is one of the major sights. Because we had three groups, our gold group was to view the inside later.

Two bishops residencies, the 16th century Old Court sporting a Renaissance facade and the New Residency featuring Baroque 'Emperor's Hall', are situated on the Domplatz next to the cathedral. Neue Residenz shows both Renaissance and Baroque influences and holds works by German masters. The display of riches among the bishops here again reminded us of the disproportionate wealth distribution in those days.

We walked into the rose garden of the Neue Residence and took in the lovely view towards Michelsberg Hill where Henry II founded a Benedictine abbey for the training of the clergy.

Mert now took us back to the Cathedral so we could view the interior. In the west chancel is the only papal tomb north of the Alps, containing the remains of Pope Clement II, who died in 1047. The pipe organ was impressive. The four towers of the Cathedral dominated the skyline.

It was now time for a rest stop in a local pub and a tasting of the rauchbier (smoked beer) for which Bamberg is famous.

Rauchbier's smokiness comes from drying barley malt over the wood of the beech trees that grow in the area’s peat-rich soil. When burned, the beech wood gives off a strong, aromatic smoke. Not everyone appreciated the different taste, but it provided a unique discovery moment. The large fresh German pretzels, still warm, went over well.

We parted company with Mert and backtracked toward Little Venice on our own. This led us now to the lower bridge at the Altes Rathaus. I now had an opportunity to video the upper bridge and a beautiful blue building on the “religious side” of the river. Buildings like this one with a Baroque facade give evidence of the city’s prosperity during the 16th and 17th centuries.

Since we had considerable free time, I headed for the Gruner Marktplatz and the Jesuit Church of St. Martin (see previous map). The façade was typically Jesuit with the usual statue of Ignatius on the left and his old buddy Francis Xavier on the right.

A block away was the Maximiliansplatz and the large state house. In the center of the square was the Maximillian Fountain. Since it was a little on the cold side, our members started congregating at the waterfront bus stop early. Soon the three buses appeared and took us back to the warm ship.

Dinner was really a treat tonight as can be seen from the Bavarian Menu. The kitchen staff staged a parade in which platters of ham, beef and a whole pig were paraded before us. Then the meat was set up at a head station where white-capped chefs carved meat to order. A staff member went from table to table with little pieces of paper on which numbers were typed to determine the order for tackling the Bavarian dishes. I pulled the number 4 (whew!) so our table was in the first group to eat. The captain’s table was last (number 26) and the poor famished officer had to be helped to reach the carver’s table. For every meal our table was graced with a beautiful single tulip. Across the table from me was Herman Phillips, Carla Phillips and Roger (the “story teller’) Gunderson. Roger ordered a Bavarian pickle platter for dessert – a dish that ended up being picked over by all of us at the table.







Friday, DAY 12, March 23rd Discovery Series Discussion Germany Since 1933 Nuremberg City Tour

This morning breakfast was a little rushed because we had a guest speaker on board who was to give his presentation at 8:00 am in the lounge. His topic was “Germany Since 1933,” an excellent introduction for our day in Nuremberg.

The speaker used transparencies and an overhead projector that proved to be very helpful. I did not have a very good seat for using a camcorder, but did manage to get in a little footage. I wish Grand Circle had had a similar introduction to the Thirty Years War (1618-1648) earlier on the trip, but they probably had enough to concern them-selves with to present as much as they did. Of all the travel companies I have used, Grand Circleranks with the best for providing useful information.

At 9 am we departed in three color-coded buses for our tour of Nuremberg, Bavaria’s second largest city and the most important city in Franconia. It was once the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire; one of the reasons Hitler chose it for his propaganda capital.

We started out on the southeast of the city to reach Speer’s Kongresshalle. The building is 1 ½ times the size of the Colosseum in Rome. The Documentation Centre is located in the north wing of the Congress Hall, a building planned by the National Socialists to hold 50,000 people but never completed.

We drove around the exterior of the building, noting that it has a more austere threatening appearance than the Colosseum. Our buses were able to enter and drive a circular path around the arena inside as well. Seeentrance and path on photo at right.

Our bus then took us around a manmade lake and we approached the Zeppelintribüne on the other side. Here were the Nuremberg parade grounds seen in Leni Riefenstahl's propaganda masterpiece, Triumph of the Will. Our local guide began her presentation at a large billboard to introduce us to the setting.

The picture of the zeppelin craft on the billboard is the one for which the stadium was named. Behind her is visible Lake Grosser DutzendreichIn with the Kongresshalle in the background. Our guide placed great emphasis on the role of Albert Speer and his designing of Hitler’s monuments. She drew attention to the fort-like projections regularly spaced around the walls of the Zeppelintribüne. See photo on right. Actually, this arrangement was a novel way of constructing toilets and giving the appearance of a fortress. She stressed that the architecture was intentionally planned to “give an appearance of intimidation.”

I then videoed the viewing stands for party dignitaries and the marble platform from which Hitler ranted as he looked down upon the large gatherings. The guide said the buildings themselves did not evoke emotions, but the bright symbols of the Nazis, marching soldiers (or workers with shovels), the flags, the music and lighting did. I zoomed in on the wall mountings for flags that are still visible.

In his autobiography, Speer claimed the Zeppelintribüne, he made a derogatory remark to the effect that the parade ground would resemble a "rifle club" meet. He was then challenged to create a new design one that was capable of holding two hundredand forty thousand people. At the 1934
Party rally on the parade grounds; Speer surrounded the site with one hundred and thirty anti-aircraft searchlights. This created the effect of a "cathedral of light"; Speer later described this as his greatest work. His “concrete mecca,” today has been converted into a park and apartment
blocks, a trade fair and a concert hall.

Since Speer played such an import role as Hitler’s architect, he needs further coverage on that aspect of his career. He ispictured right of Hitler. Albert Speer (1905 – 1981) was an architect, author and high-ranking Nazi German government official, sometimes called "the first architect of the Third Reich". His two-bestselling autobiographical works, detailing his often-close personal relationship with Adolf Hitler, have allowed readers and historians an unequalled personal view inside the workings of the Third Reich.

While a young man, fellow students (of architecture) persuaded Speer to attend a Nazi Party rally in a Berlin beer-hall in December 1930. Speer claims to have been apolitical as a young man; never-the-less, he did attend the rally. Speer claimed to have been quite affected, not only with Hitler's proposed solutions to the threat of communism and his renunciation of the Treaty of Versailles, but also with the man himself.

Speer subsequently became a prominent member of Hitler's inner circle and a veryclose friend to him, winning a special place with Hitler that was unique amongst the Nazi leadership. Hitler, according to Speer, was very contemptuous towards anybody he viewed as part of the bureaucracy, and prized fellow artists like Speer whom he felt a certain kinship with, especially as Hitler himself had previously entertained architectural ambitions.

Our guide concluded her presentation by showing us photographs that had been taken at the propaganda rallies. Then we parted for our next destination – the Nuremberg Trials Site. On the way we passed the Nuremberg Hauptbahnhof, the railroad terminal for the city, located on the southeast side of the Old City.

We finally arrived at the Palace of Justice (Justizgeblaude), where the judgments at Nuremberg trials were held. As we approached the entrance, I directed the camcorder towards the four large windows of room 600 where the proceedings took place. In the aftermath of World War II, there was an outcry for world leaders to mete out justicefor those that had committed crimes of war. A tribunal was formed-- consisting of the U.S., England, the U.S.S.R., and France--so that judgment at Nuremberg could be passed. No accusations of Allied war crimes were permitted at the Nuremberg Trials; these were dedicatedsolely
to the crimes committed by the Axis powers

NUREMBERG TRIAL NOTES: In late 1943 the Soviet leader, Joseph Stalin, proposed executing 50,000-100,000 German staff officers. Not realizing that Stalin was serious, U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt joked that perhaps 49,000 would do. Churchill denounced the idea of "the cold blooded execution of soldiers who fought for their country." However, he also stated that war criminals must pay for their crimes, Churchill was vigorously opposed to executions "for political purposes."









The 24 accused were:
Martin Borman Sentenced to death in absentia, remains found in 1972.
Karl Dönitz I10 years
Hans Frank Death
Wilhelm Frick Death
Hans Fritzsche Acquitted Tried in place of Joseph Goebbels[
Walther Funk Life Imprisonment Released due to ill health on May 16, 1957
Hermann Göring Death. Committed suicide the night before his execution.
Rudolf Hess Life Imprisonment (had flown to Scotland in 1941 in attempt to broker peace) committed to          Spandau Prison; died 1987. (I taught a college student related to Rudolf Hess)
Alfred Jodl Death On February 28, 1953, Jodl was posthumously exonerated by a German de-Nazification court, which found him not guilty of crimes under international law.
Ernst Kaltenbrunner Death
Wilhelm Keitel Death
Gustav Krupp von Bohlen und Halbach, industrialist. Medically unfit for trial.
Robert Ley. Suicide on October 25, 1945, before the trial began
Konstantin von Neurath 15 years Released (ill health) November 6, 1954
Franz von Papen Acquitted
Erich Raeder Life Imprisonment Released (ill health) September 26, 1955[14]
Joachim von Ribbentrop Death
Alfred Rosenberg Death
Fritz Sauckel Death
Hjalmar Schacht Acquitted
Baldur von Schirach 20 years
Arthur Seyss-Inquart Death
Albert Speer 20 Years – largely for his use of slave labor
Julius Streicher

After climbing stairs we reached the courtroom floor and entered Room 600. After we had all taken seats, a presenter explained the proceedings of the first trial (the main one), He pointed out the box (to his right) in which the defendants had actually sat. The judgesthat presided sat over against the windows directly opposite the box. At that time drapes covered the windows and the room was larger. The guide gave us basic information as that indicated above. He added more information about Speer and conjectured why his life was spared – showing remorse and condemning the Nazis.

With our visit in the Justice Hall completed, we loaded back into our three buses and headed for the Altstadt. See top center of previous map. map. On January 2, 1945, 525 British bombers destroyed over 90% of this old section of Nuremberg, After the war, much of the city was rebuilt and its Old World charm was painstakingly restored. We were dropped off by the cobbled main market square where we admired the intricately carved, 62-foot-high Schoner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) towering there. It dates to 1396 and is adorned with 30 figures arranged in four tiers.

On the northern side of the Market Square was a beautiful Gothic Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche), built between 1350-1358. Noone else seemed interested in the church so I ventured over there by myself. In 1525, Nuremberg accepted the Reformation, and in 1532, the religious Peace of Nuremberg, by which the Lutherans gained important concessions, was signed there. In 1632 during the Thirty Years' War, the Imperial general Albrecht von Wallenstein besieged King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden in the Siege of Nuremberg. The Church of Our Lady remained Protestant until it converted back to Catholicism in 1810.

We were given free time for further exploration but little direction. Most missed the Albrecht Duer-Haus. Dürer was born May 21, 1471, in Nuremberg. His father, Albrecht Dürer the Elder, was a goldsmith and his son's first art teacher. Albrecht Dürer (self portrait, right)was the most famous artist of Reformation Germany- widely known for his paintings, drawings, prints, and theoretical writings on art, all of which had a profound influence on 16th-century artists in his own country and in the Lowlands.

Those of us that boarded the early bus did see remnants of the Nuremberg wall. Originally it was approximately five kilometers (about three miles) long and had five gates located around the city. Throughout the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries, the Nuremberg wall was continually strengthened and improved and is largely the reason why it was able to weather attacks. Over eighty towers can be found along the wall today.

We had an Exclusive Discovery Series Event this afternoon when we experienced going through a lock that elevated us up 82 feet to the Main-Danube Canal. The technological workings of this canal are an engineering marvel. The River Harmony crossed the European watershed (at 1,332 feet, the highest point of the canal). Just about everyone came to the sun deck to celebrate and toast the event -- and take pictures (as did David). This ridge of higher land divides the areas drained by the two different rivers, the Main and Danube. Here, rain north of the watershed flows to the North Sea, and rain to the south flows to the Black Sea. A watershed monument on
the right bank marked the location.

The evening dinner featured a pirate theme and the staff dressed accordingly.


Saturday, DAY 13, March 24th Optional
Bavaria: Baroque & Beer/Regensberg

During the night we sailed to Kelheim. When I woke up in the morning there was a beautiful white swan pecking at my cabin window. The windows of the lower deck aresuch that such a scene is possible. She must have seen the reflection of herself in the window and tried making friends with herself -- or was just trying to entertain me. Either way, the show was great. I had a leisure breakfast and passed up on the optional tour to the Weltenburg Monastery.

Those who stayed on board sailed on to Regensburg, Germany’s largest medieval city. After lunch we braved the rain for our city walking tour led by local guides. I took a video shot of a map to show the location of our ship relative to the city center. Since the historic city center was undamaged during World War II, it remains beautifully preserved.

Our guide started us off with some of the older stuff – like the relics of Regensburg’s Roman past at the ruins of Castra Regina fort—the Porta Praetoria—containing a stone inscribed in AD 179, when Marcus Aurelius was emperor. We were amazed how the Romans constructed the archway with large blocks of stones cut to fit together without mortar. The guide held up a map to show us the extent of the Roman fortress.

Then we ambled over to the Stone Bridge or Steinerne Brucke (Germany’s oldest bridge), constructed during thetwelfth century. The bridge has 16 huge arches and has been in continuous service for more than 800 years.

To the left is the Bridge Tower Museum.

As we walked back toward the Old City we encountered the oldest sausage shop in Germany – the historic WurstKuche.

We ventured up to Bruckstr (Bridge Street) where I taped the Bridge Tower again and then turned around to tape the town on Bridge Street. At the end of the short street was the Goliah Haus with a huge painting of David confronting the giant.

Next came the attractive Baumburg Tower with an Italian flair, indicating the wealth prevailing in the city during the high Middle Ages.

Considerable time was spent at the Rathausplatz. The Gothic Town Hall dated in part from the 14th century, and embraced seven centuries of building history. Inside, the Imperial Hall was the meeting place of the permanent Reichstag for nearly 160 years. In the basement are the dungeons, with the torture chamber preserved in its original setting. I was particularly interested in the Diet of Regensburg, 1630, during the Thirty Years War that ultimately led to the 1631 alliance between Catholic France and Lutheran Sweden. The New City Hall is about 300 years old and attached to its predecessor by a 1250 tower In the center square is a large fountain.

Then to my right was the Neue Waag, a reddish color building. I asked the local guide about the importance of Melanchthon (Lutheran) meeting here with Eck (Catholic) in 1541, as indicated on a historical plaque on the building. Her answer disappointed me. Possibly time restraints prevented a better answer. She said Charles V was there, too, but nothing was accomplished and the city remained Catholic. That answer was in conflict with the facts. The city adopted the Reformation in 1542, a year later, and its Town Council remained entirely Lutheran until the incorporation of the city into the Principality of Regensburg under Carl von Dalberg in 1803. A significant part of the population stayed Roman Catholic, but Roman Catholics were excluded from civil rights ("Bürgerrecht"). The town of Regensburg must not be confusedwith the Bishopric of Regensburg. Although the Imperial city had adopted the Reformation, the town remained the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop and several abbeys. T So there was the unique situation, that the town of Regensburg comprised five independent "states" (in terms of the Holy Roman Empire): the Protestant city itself, the Roman Catholic bishopric and the three monasteries.

We came across another tower. Wealthy patrician families competed against each other in who would be able to build the highest tower of the city. In 1260, the Goldener Turm (golden tower) was built in Wahlenstraße.

Now we were in the proximity of the Dom. The Cathedral of St. Peter’s is a very interesting
example of pure German Gothic and counts as the main work of Gothic architecture in Bavaria. It was founded in 1275, and completed in 1634, with the exception of the towers, which were finished in 1869. One of the first things that strikes you is what appears as mismatched stone– resulting from easily eroded limestone and green sandstone that needs to be continually restored. The massive spires of the two western towers were almost completely replaced in 1955 with a more durable material.

The interior contains numerous interesting monuments, including one of Peter Vischers' masterpieces. Adjoining the cloisters are two chapels of earlier date than the cathedral itself, one of which, known as the old cathedral, goes back perhaps to the 8th century. I started the camcorder from the back of the church with the Monument (large crucifix) to the Cardinal directly in front of me, then the nave and up to the cross-ribbed vaulted ceiling – then to the stained glass in the chancel and the high altar.

Back outside, I visited another church that seemed part of the same complex, but had a bulletin board indicating it was “Evangelical.” This was St. John the Baptist Church. In 845 14 Bohemian princes came to Regensburg to receive baptism here. This was the starting point of Christianization of the Czech people and the diocese of Regensburg became the mother diocese of Prague. These events had a wide impact on the cultural history of the Czech lands, as consequently they were incorporated in the Roman-Catholic and not into the Slavic-Orthodox world. The fact is wellremembered and a memorial plate at St John's Church (the alleged place of the baptism) was unveiled a few years ago commemorating the incident in the Czech and German languages. This information, literature within the church about Pope Benedict XVI and the church interior would more than suggest it is a Catholic church.

Linked to the Cathedral was the old parish church of St. Ulrich. This structure is a good example of the Transition Style of the 13th century, and contains a valuable antiquarian collection. It houses the diocesan museum for religious art.

I looked at my watch and figured I could explore quite a bit more on my own. Heading away from the river, I came upon a Jewish memorial monument called the “Peace of Encounter.” This modern structure was a steel outline of where the old synagogue was situated before the city ordered it torn down – a reminder of the terrible treatment accorded Jews here.

Extremely close to this site was the very large Evangelical Lutheran Neupfarrkirke.

Beautiful organ music greeted me as I entered this church. Apparently the organist was practicing for a church service (this was Saturday) or an upcoming organ recital. The music provided a nice background for my video as I scanned the altar and a touching painting of Christ. One wall was reserved for the pulpit as if making a statement of its primary importance.

I continued my self guided tour further south away from the river and finally reached my objective – St. Emmeran A good example of the Romanesque basilica style is the abbey church of St. Emmeran, built in the 13th century, and remarkable as one of the few German churches with a detached belfry. The beautiful cloisters of the ancient abbey, one of the oldest in
Germany, are still in fair preservation.

Local people were filing into the Basilica for mass so I took a quick look inside.

In 1809 the convent buildings were converted into a palace for the prince of Thurn and Taxis, hereditary post-master-general of the Holy Roman Empire. There sure was a lot of wealth
displayed in the complex here. As stated earlier, this was an estate of its ownwithin the Holy Roman Empire, meaning it was granted a seat and a vote at the Imperial diet.

I headed back toward the Dom area and videoed churches within the shadow of the Cathedral: St. Joseph, Alte Kapelle – and most importantly the Niedermünster, which, like St. Emmeran, was an estate of its own within the Roman Empire. Whole lot of very large churches in a very small area!


















I looked at my genuine Rolex watch (purchased in November for two dollars while I was in
China) and felt I still had more extra time. Lo and behold, when I returned to the ship I found that the reception for Inner Circle members had already begun and the dignitaries were waiting for me. Then they announced the Inner Circle member who had the most Grand Circle trips – it was I! They presented me a gift -- a nice red XL polo shirt with a River Melody inscription. I reset my Rolex watch, settled back and enjoyed a glass of white wine.

Sunday, DAY 14, March 25th
Passau City Tour
Captain’s Farewell Dinner

The River Melody continued on down the Danube to Passau After breakfast, we enjoyed a guided walking tour of the beautiful city situated at the confluence of the Danube, the Ilz and the Inn rivers (see map). Called the City on Three Rivers for its location, Passau is an elegant town that has served as a German cultural and intellectual hub for centuries.

We divided up into our usual “dot” groups and walked along the river towards the Rathaus. To our left on the opposite riverbank hill was the Fortress “Veste Oberhaus” (1219) built to control commerce across the rivers. The castle’s upper part is connected with its lower part by a battlement parapet.

The fortress was attacked five times between 1250 and 1482. Twice, 1298 and 1367, the citizens of Passau themselves rebelled against the Bishop. Veste Oberhaus was never conquered militarily. The Bavarians occupied the fortress in 1741 but were forced out by the Austrians one year later. They returned the fortress to the Bishop in 1745. Secularization 1802 brought an end to the rule of the Bishop. Initially Napoleon occupied the fortress in his struggle with Austria, but in 1805 it surrendered to the Austrian army. After the Congress of Vienna the area was controlled by Bavaria. In 1932 the City of Passau gained
possession and instituted a museum.

When we reached the Rathausplatz I expected a spiel on the 13th century Rathaus (town hall), but apparently this was left to free time exploration. We did take a moment to acknowledge the Hotel “Wilder Mann” (Wild Man) just across the street from the Rathaus. See red arrow on map. The Wild Man is the oldest hotel in the city and now houses the Passau Glass Museum.

Then we walked down a narrow street of well-restored buildings to the Residence Square with its Wittelsbacher Fountain. The fountain was built in 1903 to honor Mary, as a protector of Bavaria. She is prominently situated on top. The flowing water represents the rivers of Passau. Behind the fountain was the Alte Bishop’s Residenz (1711). Next-door is the Neue Residenz with its main entrance facing Residenzplatz. On the far side of Residenzplatz was the rear view of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. This is the original mother church of St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna.

The cathedral’s original Gothic plan is still evident through the 17th-century reconstruction it received in the grand baroque style. One of its most striking features is the gorgeous octagonal dome that hovers over the intersection of the nave, where the congregation sits, and the transept, which runs perpendicular to it. We walked around the side of the church to the front for a better view of this Baroque building complete with flanking towers. A church service was in progress and the organ was playing. The music background would have nice on the tape, but photography was not allowed during mass. I determined to come back later to view the interior.


The statue on the square by the cathedral is of the Bavarian King Maximillian Joseph I (not Emperor Maximillian I).

After Mert finished his group talk at the monument, we were set free to be on our own. My first task was to get back to the Cathedral to tape the interior. This was the most impressive church interior (from the perspective of art) that we have seen on the trip. Unlike most cathedrals, this one was bright white and open to light. The Italian elements introduced by architect Carlo Lurango enhanced this baroque edifice. I taped the pulpit, altar, ceiling, stucco sculptures on the arches and pillars (all done by Italian artists) and the major pipe organ area.

This is the largest pipe organ in the world, built between 1924 and 1928, and enlarged from 1979 to 1980. It claims 17,388 pipes and 231 stops All five parts of the organ, distributed throughout the church, can be played from the main key board, one at a time or all together.








I had been in Passau before, so this time I wanted to chart some new territory west of the Cathedral. Heading down Rinder-marktplatz (and meeting fellow Circlers in search of Simon), I continued to Ludwigstraffe. My goal was St. Matthaus Lutheran Church on Bonhoferplatz. After looking over the front façade and bell tower, I slipped inside the church. The interior was strikingly plain, yet attractive. The altar had only a wooden crucifix, hardly ornate in any way. I scanned the nave and the balcony to the left. I read an interesting plaque in the entranceway that mentioned there were 5,500 Lutheran (10% of the city’s population)in Passau. It went on to relay that there were many Lutherans here in the Reformation era, but that the Counter Reformation “violently suppressed” them. The plaque concluded on a conciliatory tone, commenting that Lutherans and Catholics have good relations today as they share a common Christian mission.

At 5:15 pm we met in the lounge for a good-bye talk from our three guides. This was followed by a
Mozart dinner in the restaurant. It was so nice to be gathered together with such nice people, especially the five people here who had attended Abilene Christian College in Texas: Of course, we enjoyed Roger, too, even though he was an outsider from the Midwest. The wonderful meal concluded with a sparkling parade of the baked Alaska.

After dinner the crew and staff entertained us with short comedy skits, followed by the universal, but sometimes dangerous, “If I Were Not Upon the Sea, This is What I Would Want to Be.” This is
standard fare for most cruise lines.

Monday, DAY 15, March 26th
Melk Abbey Tour
Optional Musical Vienna

The River Harmony pulled up to at Melk early in the morning. After breakfast, almost everyone disembarked for the included excursion to the dramatic 900-year-old baroque Melk Abbey. I chose to stay on board because I had already been to Melk.This magnificently ornate structure has a long and storied history. Strategically situated on a steep, cliff-side perch,

Melk Abbey’s earliest incarnation was as a Roman border post. Later, it served as a tenth-century Babenberg fortress. It became a Benedictine monastery in 1089 and earned a distinguished reputation for medieval scholarship. Its library includes more than 70,000 books and 2,000 manuscripts, chiefly from the ninth through the 15th centuries. The interior of the Abbey's church is a kaleidoscope of red, orange, and gold-with a magnificent carved pulpit and ceiling frescoes.

After setting sail again, our travel on the river took us through the lovely landscape of the Wachau Valley (map)—past terraced vineyards—on our way to Vienna. Martin said this area produced the best white wine in the world. He may be biased because he is from Austria, but he was, in fact,
telling the truth. I had on an earlier trip enjoyed wonderful white wine at Weissenkirchen and Spitz. Narration could be heard on the bridge as we passed river towns and stout (Texas term)
castles.

We approached Durnstein, and could see tiered vineyards, a church, and far off the Durnstein Castle overlooking the town. In the tower of this castle, English King Richard I (Lionheart) was imprisoned (1192-1193), until he was rescued by Blondel. Though much fiction surrounds the tale it is true Richard was a prisoner here and it is true that the Duke of Austria collected an immense ransom for his release.

Durnstein has seen its share of destruction. In 1428 and again in 1432 it was plundered by the Hussites. In 1477 and 1485 Hungarian troops sacked the town. The Swedes occupied the town in 1645 during the Thirty Years’ War and blew up the castle when they left. In 1805 the town had skirmishes with French troops of Napoleon.

One of the most beautiful churches was the Baroque Blue Church. Prandtauer built the magnificent
church, together with the convent. Some of the old town walls remain.

Around 3:30 pm chefs from the kitchen gave us an apfelstrudel demonstration in the lounge.


Afterwards they served the delicacy with coffee and tea.

In the early evening, around 6 pm we arrived in Vienna, Austria’s capital, which is called Vien by most Europeans. Some spent the evening on their own, but David and I took the optional Musical Vienna tour. Vienna without music wouldn’t be Vienna. , We enjoyed an unforgettable evening in one of Vienna’s beautiful palaces, the Kursalon. Music from the “Waltz King” Johann Strauss, Mozart and their contemporaries enchanted us -- the most beautiful melodies of classical Austrian music. Virtuosic musicians, extraordinary opera singers, and enchanting ballet dancers presented an evening filled with Viennese charm.

What really struck me was how personable the artists were. When the audience clapped at the wrong place, they graciously covered it up. As former director of public events at our college, I had to work with a number of phony stuck up individuals from different orchestras and opera companies. Tonight was different. The chemistry between the artists and the audience was great.

We were not permitted to use camcorders or cameras while the music was being performed, but we were given kind permission to do so between numbers. I was shocked to see former Secretary of Defense Rumsfeld on stage as the concertmaster. Possibly he only looked like Rumsfeld. The seating section reserved for Grand Circle was to the right front of the concert hall. I could not be more pleased with my seat in the second row next to the center aisle. During intermission we were served champagne. This Musical Vienna highlight capped off a really
pleasant trip.


Tuesday, DAY 16, March 27th Return to U.S.

After an early breakfast, we disem-barked and were transferred to the airport for our flight home. Grand Circle had us put color-coded yarn on our luggage to ensure it was placed on the appropriate bus. Mert waited at the airport to assist us through the terminal. Service by Grand Circle was flawless. I departed Vienna Schwechat, Austria at 09:35 am and arrived in Amsterdam Schiphol, Netherlands at 11:35 am. after a 2 hr flight of 595 miles.

I departed Amsterdam Schiphol, Netherlands at 01:10 pm on Northwest and arrived Minneapolis at 03:05 pm. the same day after a flight of 8 hrs. 55 minutes (4155 miles). Annette was waiting for me at the airport with her bright smiling face. We stopped at our favorite restaurant Emma Krumbees for soup and salad on the way back to New Ulm.





Great trip! Great fellow passengers!