I booked this tour with Grand Circle Travel because this part of the world has significant historical importance and I like the moderate weather conditions that prevail here in February. Naturally, the price influences my travel decisions, too. The tour package was $200 less than offered in 2009. I saved $100 by booking before November and I saved $50 by paying in full. Airfare from Minneapolis instead of from the East Coast required only an additional $100. The fact that this trip was offered with no single supplement charges in both Sicily and Malta tipped the balance in my decision
Day 1, Thursday, Feb. 11
Annette drove me to the airport and dropped me off to avoid the expensive airport parking fee. I was supposed to depart MSP at 10:20 am on Northwest (Delta) NW5782 for Newark. After boarding, we passengers waited while technicians struggled with mechanical difficulties that proved to be insurmountable. We vacated the plane and waited three hours for Delta to bring another jet to the loading gate. Finally we were aloft and on our way to NJ. Unfortunately our aircraft had no arrival gate to receive us in Newark, so our plane sat there on the tarmac for what seemed forever. Through my seat window I could see my Alitalia AZ643 flight to Rome departing Terminal B at 5:25 pm without me.
I was stuck here at the airport without a paddle and sought assistance from Delta employees, Apparently, no one in the gate area was concerned about my plight. I was shunted from one employee to another until a “manager” directed me to the front ticket office. To Delta’s credit I was given a voucher for an overnight stay at the Wyndham and after the trip I received 1,000 SkyMiles for my troubles.
Day 2, Friday, Feb. 12 and Day 3, Saturday, Feb, 13
The next day, after wandering around the airport, I boarded my flight to Rome. It had the same flight number only just 24 hours later. I departed 5:25 pm and arrived in Rome 7:45 am (8 hours 20 minutes; 4280 miles) at terminal 3. Having a little waiting time in Rome, I headed to an ATM machine and withdrew 150 euros from my checking account.
The last leg of my air travel took me from Rome to Malta in a 1 hour 30 minutes flight. I arrive at Luga Airport terminal 1 at 1:35 pm. Denise, my Grand Circle guide, had pre-arranged taxi service for me. The driver was waiting outside customs with a sign bearing my name.
Malta International Airport (IATA: MLA, ICAO: LMML) is the only airport in Malta, and it serves the whole Maltese Archipelago. It is located between Luga and Gudja in Malta. It occupies the location of the former RAF. Particularly from 1941 to 1943, RAF Luga was a very important base for British Commonwealth forces fighting against Italy and Germany for naval control of the Mediterranean and for ground control of North Africa. Luga was completely re-furbished, becoming fully operational on 25 March 1992. It is still referred to by locals as Luga Airport, and sometimes as Valletta Airport International, as it is located 3.1 miles southwest of the Maltese capital Valetta
A little background information on Malta:
Malta, officially the Republic of Malta is a densely populated developed European country in the European Union. The Southern European island nation is an archipelago that includes the inhabited islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino, along with a number of smaller, uninhabited islands. It is situated centrally in the Mediterranean Sea, 93 km south of Sicily (Italy) and 288 km northeast of Tunisia.
Malta has an estimated population of more than 400,000 people. Malta's de facto capital is Valletta and the biggest city is Birkirkara. The islands enjoy a Mediterranean climate. The country's official languages are Maltese and English, which replaced Italian in 1934. Throughout its history, Malta's location in the Mediterranean Sea has given it a strategic importance. A sequence of powers including the Phoenicians, Romans, Fatimids, Sicilians, Knights of St John, French and British have all ruled the islands. Malta gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1964 and became a Republic in 1974, whilst retaining membership in the Commonwealth of Nations. It is a member of the United Nations (since 1964) and a member of the European Union (since 2004). Malta is known for its world heritage sites, most prominently the Megalithic Temples that are the oldest freestanding structures in Europe.
Malta has a long legacy of Roman Catholicism, which continues to be the official and dominant religion in Malta. According to the Acts of the Apostles (Acts 27:39-42; Acts 28:1-11), Saint Paul was shipwrecked on the island and ministered there. Malta is also suggested as a hypothetical location of the mythical lost island of Atlantis.
In the early 16th century, the Ottoman Empire started spreading over the region, reaching into southeastern Europe. The Spanish king Charles V feared that if Rome fell to the Turks, it would be the end of Christian Europe. In 1479, Ferdinand II married Isabella of Castile. Their daughter Joanna married Philip Archduke of Austria. In 1518, the Habsburg dynasty was consolidated when their son Charles V, became the Holy Roman Emperor. Wanting to protect Rome from invasion from the South, in 1530, Charles V handed over the island to these Knights. Through the intercession of Pope Clement VIII, he granted Malta, Gozo and Tripoli to the homeless Order of St. John in 1530. For the next 275 years, these famous "Knights of Malta" made the island their domain and made the Italian language official. They built towns, palaces, churches, gardens, and fortifications and embellished the island with numerous works of art and enhanced cultural heritage.
The order of the Knights of St. John was originally established to set up outposts along the route to the Holy Land, to assist pilgrims going in either direction. Owing to the many confrontations that took place, one of their main tasks was to provide medical assistance, and even today the eight-pointed cross is still in wide use in ambulances and first aid organizations. In return for the many lives they saved, the Order received many newly conquered territories that had to be defended. Together with the need to defend the pilgrims in their care, this gave rise to the strong military wing of the Knights. Over time, the Order became strong and rich. Since much of the territory they covered was around the Mediterranean region, they became notable seamen.
The Great Siege of the Ottoman: From Malta the knights resumed their seaborne attacks of Ottoman shipping, and before long the Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent ordered a final attack on the Order. On 18 May 1565, Suleyman the Magnificent laid siege to Malta. By the time the Ottoman fleet arrived the Knights were as ready as they could be. First the Ottomans attacked the newly built fort of St. Elmo and after a whole month of fighting the fort was in rubble and the soldiers kept fighting until the Turks killed them. After this they started attacking Birgu and the fortifications at Senglea but to no gain. After a protracted siege ended on 8 September of the same year, which became known in history as "the Great Siege," the Ottoman Empire conceded defeat as the approaching winter storms threatened to prevent them from leaving. The Ottoman Empire had expected an easy victory within weeks. They had 40,000 men arrayed against the Knights' nine thousand, most of them Maltese soldiers and simple citizens bearing arms. The Ottoman loss of thousands of men was very demoralizing and they made no further significant military advances in Europe, The Sultan died a few years later.
The situation in Europe in the late 18th and early 19th century was explosive. The French revolution had changed the face of Europe and through the influence of Napoleon Bonaparte, 'The Directory' gave him permission to invade Egypt and take Malta in the process. In 1798 he invaded Malta and expelled the Order. Thus ended 268 years of rule by the Order of St. John. French rule in Malta lasted only two years. The Maltese rebelled within three months of their arrival, besieging them in Valletta, from where, with the help of the British, they were finally ousted in 1800. The British occupied the island and for the next fifteen years the fate of Malta was undecided. The Maltese did not want the knights back and Britain was quite undecided as to whether it wanted to stay in Malta, but equally Britain did not want either the French or the Russians, who had their eyes on Malta for quite a while, to occupy the islands. The Maltese finally made up their mind and asked the British to stay. In the treaty of Paris, the occupation of Malta by the British was finally recognized. This was legalized in 1815 at the Congress of Vienna. On 21 September 1964, Malta became a sovereign and independent nation within the Commonwealth. In 1974 Malta was declared itself a republic.
My taxi driver took me to St. Julians where my hotel was situated. St. Julian is the patron saint for hunters and pickpockets. I anticipated the weather to be moderate since Malta has a Mediterranean subtropical climate. Highs were around 60 degrees. They do have strong winds, though. The English language is quite universal throughout Malta because of the long British presence since 1814.
The hotel was very nice. Located in the center of St. Julians, the Superior First-Class Golden Tulip Vivaldi was just a short walk from the rocky public beach and the Dragonara Casino. Hotel amenities included two restaurants, a bar, gym, and indoor and outdoor pools. Hotel water in Malta and Sicily was safe to drink. If reserved with Priceline.com, the rate would be $118.20 per night. St Julian’s is Malta’s prime resort.
View of the Vivaldi Hotel Reception
View of the Sea from my balcony
Because I had missed the first day I missed the Orientation Session with Denise and the walking tour of Valletta. Valletta, The Fortress City, “a city built by gentlemen for gentlemen,” is Malta's capital city: a living, working city, the administrative and commercial heart of the Islands. Valletta is named after its founder, the respected Grand Master of the Order of St John, Jean Parisot de la Valette. The magnificent fortress city grew on the arid rock of Mount
Sceberras peninsula. I was disappointed that I had missed this tour, especially the priceless art at St. John’s Cathedral with its elaborately ornate interior, and Caravaggio’s masterpiece, “The Beheading of St. John,” hanging in the Oratory
Map below shows the area around Vivaldi Hotel.
This is the same area depicted in the map above, as seen from my hotel.
During WW II, when the Axis Powers attempted to subdue Malta there were 3343 air raid alerts and 16,0000 tons of bombs dropped. Over 11,000 buildings were destroyed or damaged by bombings in April 1941. The RAF and anti-aircraft fire brought down over 2500 Axis aircraft.
Day 4, Sunday Feb. 14
We had a nice breakfast buffet 7 am at the hotel. Today we left at 8:45 am on an optional tour for a visit to Limestone Heritage and then to one of Malta’s best-known prehistoric temples, Hagar Qim , which means “free-standing boulders.” Malta boasts monumental remains of sites older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids, and which have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The tour also included a visit to the Tarxien megalithic temples from 3200 B.C.
First we visited Limestone Heritage, once a family run quarry that in recent years has been brought back to life by a younger generation as a living monument to the limestone arts and crafts of the Maltese Islands.
This visit is conceived as a living experience of past and present quarrymen and of the primary industrial mineral of the archipelago: the honey-colored, calcareous, sedimentary limestone of marine origin. Our guide attributed the color to wind carried sand from the desert of nearby Africa. I saw the sand she referred to when I was in Tunisia. She said that the strong sirocco winds dropped the sand with rain.
The earliest islanders quickly developed a skill in fashioning the limestone. As we entered the quarry museum and open air life-like dioramas, we first encountered this depiction (above) of early quarrying.
Further exhibits revealed the development of cutting and sawing the limestone (above).
The broken up pieces (rubble) could be used for the construction of mound-like huts or barrier fences.
The Limestone Heritage was awarded a Star Award 2007 for Best Tourist Shop in Malta and Gozo. The award is prestigious because it is nominated and voted for by tourists to the attraction. Limestone Heritage Managing Director Manuel Baldachino said: “We are thrilled to have received this award because it is voted for by tourists and it is nice to know that our hard work since the inauguration of the attraction in 2002 has been appreciated. On the 28th June 2006, Prime Minister of Malta, Dr. Lawrence Gonzi inaugurated the new extension comprising of a new auditorium and a multi-function hall with the capacity of catering for 200 patrons every 15 minutes. A new audio-visual presentation was also launched.
Studies at Limestone Heritage, the museum/park that traces the use of stone in Malta, have confirmed that a bell-shaped cistern in the Siggiewi quarry where the museum is located is an ancient tomb of Punic or Roman origin dating back to 200 B.C. The studies were conducted by Dr Nicholas Vella, Senior Lecturer in Archaeology at the Department of Classics and Archaeology of the University of Malta. Entrance into the tomb is now through one of its two burial chambers but in antiquity the tomb was reached from the fields above, down a deep shaft. Two burial chambers, one opposite the other, are found at the bottom of the shaft. They are small rooms, roughly rectangular in shape, entered through low arched doorways. Dr Vella explained in a report that inside, to the left of each entrance, is a mortuary bed cut into the rock. The corpse would have been laid to rest on the bed with its head lying on a rock-cut pillow at the deep end of the chamber. The tomb is now open to visitors.
We gathered back on the bus and were on the way to the set of ruins at Tarxien. En route our bus passed some old hangar buildings (above) that had once served the RAF, but now stood deserted. These photos were taken from the moving bus.
Our bus stopped a short distance from the famous Hagar Qim. A wind was blowing in from the sea. A tree fashioned from the wind (above) supported what our guide said about the strong wind coming in from the deserts of Africa.
The megalithic complex of Hagar Qim is located atop a hill on the southern edge of the island of
Malta, on a ridge capped in soft globigerina limestone. All exposed rock on the island was
deposited during the Oligocene and Miocene periods of geological time. Globigerina limestone is the second oldest rock on Malta, outcropping over approximately 70% of the area of the islands.
Since the rock is sensitive to the elements. a large tent has been erected to cover the structure. The builders used this stone throughout the temple architecture. Features of temple architecture reveal a preoccupation with providing accommodation for animal sacrifices, burnt offerings and ritual oracles. Recesses were used as depositories for sacrificial remains. Excavation has uncovered numerous statuettes of deities and highly decorated pottery.
Our capable guide led us through this awesome structure (above).
Leaving the ruins behind us we traveled along the sea coast to a viewing area of the Blue Grotto. The weather had been nice and clear, but we walked over to the Grotto when it began to rain. The blurred area on the photo is from the water on the lens. The Blue Grotto is actually a number of sea caverns on the southern coast of Malta, west of the Wied iz-Żurrieq harbor near the village of Żurrieq. It is located right across the small islet of Filfla.
The Blue Grotto was also used for a scene of the 2004 film Troy, starring Brad Pitt. Every day from sunrise until about 1 pm a unique sight can be observed here. The location of the cave combined with the sunlight lead to the water mirroring showing numerous shades of blue. Several caverns mirror the brilliant phosphorescent colors of the underwater flora; other caverns show a deep dark shade of blue.
Then we stopped at the charming fishing village of Marsaxlokk (see map)home to the largest fishing fleet in Malta, among which there are still many characteristic iuzzu ships decorated with the Eye of Isis.
The painted eyes on these iuzzus are believed to protect the boats from the evil eye (see below).
Traffic in the city was quite heavy because of a Mardi Gras parade. Carnival is a festive season which occurs immediately before Lent; the main events are usually during February. Carnival typically involves a public celebration or parade combining some elements of a circus, mask and public street party.
People often dress up or masquerade during the celebrations, which mark an overturning of daily life.
We walked along side the costumed figures and marching band. Thus gave us wonderful oppor-
tunities for taking pictures. It was very convenient that the parade was heading up the street towards where we were having lunch.
Even after we were in the Carrubia Restaurant, we could take photos from our second floor balcony.
And our included lunch was fantastic.
Tomatoes/Onions on Toast
Mushrooms (my single portion)
Swordfish steak
Lemon pie for dessert
Denise gave us free time to explore the harbor and the fish market (below). I also walked down to the church In 1855 this church dedicated to Our Lady Star of the Sea ("Stella Maris") was built. Around the new church, the small village grew into a town. By 1878, the population grew to such an extent to become an independent parish.
Our last stop of the day was at the Tarxien Temples. Tarxien temples are four megalithic temples constructed in southern Malta between 3600 and 2500 BC. They are notable for their complexity, fine construction and variety of figural carvings. In this prehistoric period, the temples were used regularly for rituals including animal sacrifice, as attested by the discovery of a flint blade, a long bone spatula, animal bones, and seashells within a carved altar. In the Bronze Age (2400-1500 BC), Tarxien was reused as a cremation cemetery.
The site lie hidden for centuries until its discovery in 1914, when farmers struck large stone blocks while plowing a field. Sir Temistocles Zammit, Malta’s first director of museums, excavated the site in 1915-17. The Tarxien temple complex consists of four temples connected by a square court. The temples each have separate entrances. Uniquely, the central temple consists of six apses. This is the only known example of such a layout and it represents a final phase in the long evolution of Maltese temple architecture.
A narrow staircase connects the central temple to the east temple. The Tarxien temples are notable for their fine workmanship and decorative carvings, which include domestic animals carved in relief, exquisite spiral designs, and other patterns. Especially impressive is a relief of two bulls and a sow between the South and Central temples. The spiral is the most common design in megalithic art on Malta, and indeed around the world. Believed by some to represent eternity, the design is expressed in a wide variety of forms across the islands and clearly had a significant meaning for the ancient Maltese peoples.
Fertility goddess figures (now in the national museum in Valetta) discovered in the ruins indicate that the temples were dedicated to the Earth Mother, as were many Maltese temples.
The most famous of these figures is a sculpture of large hips with feet, dubbed the "Fat Lady.” See legs below. Spherical stones found at the site have provided a valuable clue as to how the great stones of Malta's megalithic temples were moved into place—they were probably rolled on the stones while being towed with ropes.
On the way back to our hotel the guide pointed out to us the Arab influence in the balconies along the streets. They were enclosed so that modest women could observe street activities and yet remain out of view.
Day 5, Monday, Feb. 15
The front desk gave me a wake up call for 6:30 am so I could have a 7 am breakfast. Today we departed for the optional tour of Gozo at 8 am. We had a nice scenic ride as we headed north for the ferry ride to the island. Flowers in the roundabout (below) gave evidence we were in a warm climate zone; the intersection circle for traffic control was a carryover from English influence.
As we drove along the coast we came across a castle that served as a hunting lodge for the Knights of St. John the Baptist. The structure was also used by the Knights to encounter threats.
At last we reached the pier and we lined up or boarding the ferry. Our bus entered the jaws of the ship to Zone A and we all climbed upstairs to the waiting areas.
We had a nice view of the two smaller islands in the channel between us and Gozo. The one on the left, Cominotto is very small.
Comino is somewhat larger and has a commanding 17th century observation post constructed by the Knights of St. John the Baptist.
Our car-ferry arrived in the port of Mgarrand the vehicles filed off. The modern church in Gothic style, Our Lady of Lourdes, dominated the skyline.
Gozo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is known as The Isle of Calypso because of its Calypso Cave. On that edge of the town overlooking a splendid view of Ramla Bay, one can find the mythological Calypso Cave, the home of the nymph Calypso mentioned in Homer's Odyssey.
Homer's Odyssey narrates how Ulysses, after the wars of Troy, set sail for Ithaca were he had left his wife and only son. After several adventurous days at sea, his boat was wrecked in a terrible storm near the isle of Ogygia and Ulysses drifted on flotsam to the sandy shore of a large bay. It so happened that the goddess-nymph Calypso, who inhabited a cave in the hillside overlooking the bay, witnessed the event on the beach. She rescued Ulysses, took him to her cave and nursed him. He then wished to sail home, but the nymph delayed his departure for seven long years. She promised him eternal youth if he consented marrying her, but he refused, preferring to return to his wife and home in Greece. At long last, Zeus ordered Calypso to release the unhappy man. Thereupon Ulysses sailed from Ogygia on a raft,and after some more adventures at sea arrived at Ithaca where he found his wife Penelope at home weaving an unending web while she waited and waited for his return.
We headed inland to the imposing Basilica of Ta Pinu (above). The Basilica of Ta’ Pinu is the most famous place of pilgrimage for the Maltese Islanders. Its origins go back to a day in June in 1883, when a woman allegedly heard the voice of the Virgin Mary in an old chapel. In the following years, many miracles and acts of grace were said to have been manifested at the site. Funds were raised from Gozitans, including those living abroad and works on the new church began in 1920, with voluntary labor from the local community. In 1931, Ta’ Pinu was consecrated and a year later Pope Pius XI raised it to the status of Basilica. The original 16th century chapel was fully integrated into the new church.
The magnificent temple, built in local limestone, is a gem of Neo-Romanesque architecture. Cornices, pediments and altars are sculpted in Byzantine reliefs; altarpieces are in exquisite modern mosaic, and all accessories express the same Romanesque motif. Even the detached steeple outside the church maintains this architectural style.
In the parking lot, our guide distributed pieces of carnival candy (above) called Prinjolata; this concoction consists of a pyramid of sponge fingers held together with a mixture of butter, cream and almonds and decorated with melted chocolate and cherries.
Our next destination was the Blue (Azure) Window. The Azure Window is another spectacular natural landmark in Dwejra, along with The Inland Sea and Fungus Rock. The Azure Window at the end of the cliff, is a giant doorway, through which one can admire the blue expanse beyond the cliff. It must be one of the most photographed vistas of the Islands, and is particularly spectacular during the winter, when waves crash high inside the arch.
The sea around is very deep and of a dark blue hue, which explains why it is called the Azure Window. The rocks in this area are encrusted with fossilized crustaceans, evidence that most of the island was once covered by water. In front of the Azure Window is the Blue Hole, and The Chimney, two of the most popular diving sites in Gozo.
After time soaking in this natural wonder, we moved on into Victoria and were dropped off at one of the city squares opposite a walkway to the Citadel. Those who wished to walk up to the Citadel could do so while others were free to walk around the immediate area. I chose to visit the nearby Church of St. George(above). This parish church dedicated to St George has the status of a Basilica. The church was built in the 1670s and suffered severe damage in the earthquake of 1693. A new façade was built in 1818.
Markers erected by the two Ggantija temples indicated that during the Neolithic Age "(3600-2500 BC), makes these temples more than 5500 years old and some of the world's oldest manmade religious structures. The temples were possibly the sites of a Fertility cult; archeologists believe that the numerous figurines and statues found on site are connected with that cult. According to local Gozitan folklore, giants built these temples and used them as places of worship. These two temples, built side-by-side and enclosed within a boundary wall. The southerly one is the larger and elder, dating back to approximately 3600 BC. It is also better preserved. The plan of the temple incorporates five large apses, with traces of the plaster that once covered the irregular wall still clinging between the blocks.
The temples are built in the typical cloverleaf shape, with inner facing blocks marking the shape that was then filled in with rubble. This led to the construction of a series of semi-circular apses connected with a central passage. Archaeologists believe that roofing originally covered the apses.
The structures are all the more impressive for having been constructed at a time when no metal tools were available to the natives of the Maltese Islands, and when the wheel had not yet been introduced. Small, spherical stones have been discovered. They were believed to have been ball bearings to transport the enormous stone blocks required for the temples' construction. The temple, like other megalithic sites in Malta, faces southeast. The southern temple rises to a height of six meters. At the entrance sits a large stone block with a recess, which led to the hypothesis that this was a ritual ablution station for purification before entering the complex. The five apses contain various altars; evidence of animal bones in the site suggests the site was used for animal sacrifice. The land was held privately until 1933, when the Government expropriated it for public benefit. The Museums Department conducted extensive archaeological work in 1933, 1936, 1949, 1956-57 and 1958-59. Their goals were to clear, preserve and research the ruins and their surroundings.
As we approached the temples from the bus parking area, we had a view of massive rocks that formed the back wall of the Holy of Holies (above).
The Main Altar (below):
Round rocks used to move large slabs
Our mission accomplished here in Gozo, we retraced our journey back to the hotel. This time our bus made a photo stop at an overlook when we got to St. Paul’s Bay and famous St. Paul’s Island. I jumped at the chance to take pictures.
St. Paul's Island (also referred to as Selmunett) is a flat islet lying in St. Paul's Bay. St. Paul's Island is sometimes split into two islands when the sea is rough. It has been uninhabited since the sole farmer abandoned his tiny dwelling and fields decades ago.
In 60, the Roman Governor of Palestine Porcius Festus allowed Paul of Tarsus passage from Caesarea Maritima to Rome to stand trial for heresy before the Emperor Nero. So he was put on a merchant galley, under armed guard, together with many other people, including his friends Luke the Evangelist and Aristarcus, and the long journey began. Even after they boarded a bigger ship, near island of Crete, the weather worsened, the sea became rougher, and everyone was afraid, but Paul reassured them saying, "for fourteen days you have not eaten anything. Always waiting for the tempest to stop, today you must eat, an Angel of the Lord told me that no one will be lost and that all will lain safely on a certain island." He himself began to eat so as to set a good example. And so it happened — as the Acts of the Apostles relate that, when they had come very near to land, some jumped into the water, and the others held on to some planks or woodwork and swam to the shore, "And when we had reached land," we read in the Acts " we knew that the island was called Melita and the inhabitants took great care of us." No lives were lost; all 276 passengers were saved. St. Paul's Island was most probably the place of that shipwreck — but this is still disputed, with a second location, Daħlet San Tumas in Marsascala, suggested as the site of the Saint's shipwreck.
We continued our journey to our hotel in St. Julian’s for a goodnight sleep.
Day 6, Tuesday, Feb. 16
I enjoyed my usual comprehensive buffet breakfast at 7 am. Our bus was ready to leave the hotel by 9 am. Today we took in a full-day optional tour of Northern Malta . We drove along the stunning coastline to hilltop Mellieha to visit the striking Marian Sanctuary. See map.
According to a Marian devotee (Anthony Mallia Borg, June, 1998): Among those, who with St. Paul and the other 275 persons on board the ship to Rome (60 A.D.) was Luke the Evangelist. Luke did not hesitate to put in writing the welcome our forefathers gave to those unlucky passengers on board, being shipwrecked on our shores (Acts 28, 1). It was no surprise that the inhabitants gave the passengers everything needed to continue their voyage. The inhabitants used these places for worship. Over the years, these became dilapidated or were demolished, but later reconstructed. After long years of Arab domination, the Christian religion regained freedom of worship. Among the chapels restored, was one dedicated to the Nativity of Our Lady at Birkirkara. By the year 1402, the ecclesiastic authorities already considered the large area of Birkirkara as a parish. This chapel became widely known by an account of an alleged miraculous cure of a paralytic who happened to be in the vicinity when he heard a bell from the belfry of the chapel. The door on the left leads to the sacristy.
The Crypt of Our Lady of Mellieha was originally one of the many natural caves found around the northern part of the island.
According to an old tradition, the Byzantine style fresco, depicting the Virgin Mary holding Christ on her right arm, was painted by St. Luke. Recent studies indicate that the fresco is an Early Medieval 13th century painting. The ancient part of the Sanctuary, as it stands today, dates back to the late 16th century. Since then, due to the popularity of the place and the ever increasing population of Mellieha the chapel's internal structure was modified and extended several times, the major works being done in 1716-19, 1815 and 1845-47. During World War II a bomb shelter here offered protection from falling bombs. We were allowed to roam the narrow hallways.
Then we drove past Ghajn Tuffieha and Golden Bay to Mosta where the group toured the massive parish church with its impressive Mosta Dome, one of the largest unsupported domes in the world. More information may be found on p. 128 Blue Guide. This church was built in the classical style in the middle of the 19th century mainly through the efforts, both technical and financial, of the villagers. George Grognet de Vasse designed it. His plan was closely based on that of the Pantheon, in Rome.
The foundation stone was laid on May 30, 1833 and the church took 27 years to complete.
Apart from the size of its dome, it is well known because on April 9, 1942, 4 p.m. a 500-lb enemy bomb whose shell is now exhibited inside the sacristy pierced the Rotunda’s majestic dome.
The bomb fell in the center of the church. No one was hurt.
John the Baptist and Jesus
With a little free time, some of us crossed the street for a hot chocolate at a cafe.
Our optional tour also visited Palazzo Parisio, with its beautifully manicured gardens, baroque
facades, and opulent interior. We ended the tour in the mansion's formal, Renaissance-style gardens.
Originally built in 1733 by the Portuguese Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, who ruled the Island during the time of the Knights of St. John, it was later bought and embellished by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna in 1898. As a pillar of the establishment, banker and philanthropist, it was his vision and passion that inspired the magnificent interior of this wonderful family home.
Described as a miniature Versailles, it is a glorious showcase of Maltese and Italian craftsmanship at the turn of the 19th century, with lavishly decorated ceilings, murals and frescoes, fine stucco work, magnificent antique furniture, rare paintings and extravagant gilding.
The ornate gilded Ballroom of mirrors is unique in Malta with its exuberant style, flamboyant decoration and unparalleled plasterwork. It is still used today for private functions, weddings and important corporate hospitality events
The magnificent walled gardens rank amongst the finest in Malta and the only privately owned gardens open to the public. Classically baroque in style, they are a charming mixture of Italian symmetry and Mediterranean color and perfume,with seasonal appeal all year round.
Dinner was on our own tonight. Our hotel was conveniently located in the heart of St. Julians and many restaurants were within easy reach. I settled for a piece of fruit and a granola bar in my hotel room.
Day, 7, Wednesday, Feb. 17
Breakfast was at 7 am when the buffet room was opened. Today our optional tour to The Silent City of Mdina departed at 9 am. . See also pp. 115-123 (w/map p. 118) of Blue Guide.
The bus stopped at a distance from the city so we could take pictures of the walled-in city as a whole.
Mdina was probably first occupied by Phoenicians about 1000 B.C. The Roman governor built his palace here, and Saracen invaders fortified it with thick surrounding walls. This former capital, often called the Silent City because of its very quiet environment, lies in a beautiful region.
We approached the city and our first encounter was a dry moat filled with vegetation.
Once inside the complex I took a photo of the entrance gate that had been constructed by the Knights of St. John the Baptist. The baroque figures were carved out of limestone.
The first major building inside was baroque and had a painting of St. Paul on one of the corners. This building was rebuilt by the Knights after the Great Earthquake of 1693.
Our city guide led us into the Arab section of the city, which was the only part spared by the Earthquake. The Arab influence was readily evident by the narrow streets and balconies.
Further along we came to a section of palaces belonging to the nobility. Mdina has remained the refuge for Maltese nobles and has managed to preserve its medieval aristocratic ambience. The inhabitants number just under 500 and there is very little traffic within its walls due to the fact that only residents are allowed to drive into the city.
And then to the Bastion that gave us a commanding view of 70% the entire island.
I took a photo that includes the old British section. When the British left (1979) the Republic, their hospital became apartments for Maltese seeking private ownership.
Citizens are perhaps proudest of the Mdina St. Paul’s Cathedral. The late 17th-century St. Paul's Cathedral in Mdina stands on the traditional site of the house of the governor Publius, who received St. Paul when he was shipwrecked on Malta. According to the Book of Acts, Paul and his missionary party were shipwrecked on Malta for three months. During his stay, Paul was bitten by a snake and remained unharmed, prompting the natives to regard him as a god. He later healed the father of the governor of the island, Publius, and many other people (Acts 27:1-11). According to tradition, Publius was converted to Christianity and went on to become the bishop of Malta and later of Athens.
The Cathedral of St. Paul was built from 1697 to 1702 to replace a Norman cathedral that had been destroyed by earthquake in 1693. The new cathedral caused a significant redesign of medieval Mdina's city center —several streets and houses were cleared to create an open square in front of the cathedral. Architect Lorenzo Gafa designed St. Paul’s Cathedral. Its impressive façade wows visitors as they emerge from Mdina’s narrow streets. The cathedral's magnificent dome, with red-and-white stripes, dominates the skyline. The dome's interior has been decorated by a succession of painters; today’s decoration dates from the 1950s.
The lavish interior of the cathedral is similar in many ways to the Cathedral of St. John in Valetta. There are great works by the Calabrian artist and knight Mattia Preti and a marble-inlaid floor with tombstones carrying the coats of arms and inscriptions of the bishops of Mdina and other members of the cathedral chapter. Surviving from the original Norman church is a monumental depiction of the conversion of St. Paul by Mattia Preti, between the apse and main altar.
Also surviving from the old church are: the 15th-century Tuscan panel painting of the Madonna and Child; the baptismal font; the frescoes in the apse depicting St. Paul’s shipwreck; and the old portal, made of carved Irish bog wood, which now serves as a door to the vestry.
St. Paul on the left with sword. St. Peter on the right with key.
The cathedral's museum has a collection of coins, silver plate, religious vestments and some woodcuts by the German artist Albert Dürer. Casual strollers will be rewarded with sights of numerous churches, palaces and fortifications.
Besides being an outstandingly beautiful place, one of Mdina’s attractions is the dungeon museum (above). The underground dungeons of Mdina recreate the dark parts of the history of Malta. The wax figures in the Mdina dungeons portray the ingenuous cruelty of human minds expressed in torture — the dramatic scenes from the ancient past and the characters who were either the victims or the executioners.
The Moslems had their own punishments, (above) one of which was pressing where the victim was crushed beneath a pile of stones after being tied spread-eagled on the ground.
There were many forms of torture and mutilation.
Much treatment was given to the torture administered during the Inquisition. I found it interesting that there was only one mosque in all of Malta. It was very small and of only recent origin. In 1798 the French under Napoleon occupied Malta. The inquisition was abolished. But when the French confiscated property belonging to the Maltese Church, the Maltese revolted, and the patriots were executed by firing squad on the Place de la Liberte in 1799.
The Phoenicians first populated the city around 1000 BC. When Malta came under the Romans, the Governor chose to build his Palace there and it housed the government (above). The city earned its present day name from the Saracens who came to Malta around 870 AD. They surrounded the city with thicker walls, separating it from its nearest town, Rabat. When the knights built the new city Valletta, power was transferred to Valletta and Mdina became the "Old City" with a declining population.
We ended with a visit to the archaeological excavations of the Roman Villa located on the outskirts of Mdina. This significant Roman ruin was discovered in 1881, and is known for its beautiful mosaic floor.
We returned to our hotel and rested up for our impending flight to Sicily tomorrow morning. Malta had
provided a wonderful experience.
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