Day 8, Thursday, Feb. 18
Our wake-up call was set for 4:45 am; luggage was put out at 5:15 am. We were assisted to the airport for our flight to Taormina. We said our good-byes to Denise at the check-in counter. Our Air Malta flight left at 7:30 am and took 45 minutes to reach Sicily.
We arrived at Catania 8:15 am and were met by Maurizio Caminita outside customs after a half hour wait.
Our bus ride to Taormina from Catania was scenic with Mt. Etna off to our left.
To reach our hotel our bus driver had to maneuver up a mountain road with snake-like (intestinal) turns. Taormina is 200 meters above sea level on Monte Tauro.
The scenery along the way from the seacoast to our elevated destination was fantastic.
Castelmola above us and to the left is an ancient fortress built to protect Taormina
The bus was parked at a bus park so we still had a walking trek and an elevator ride to reach the re-
ception lobby of the Hotel Artiston.
There was a little wait for the rooms, but we found a bowl of fresh fruit in each room to tide us over until dinner.
That Welcome Dinner was held in the hotel that evening. Our wonderful dinner started with of plate filled with egg plant, cheese and salami. The main serving consisted of turkey and potatoes.
The hotel was generous with red wine which we sipped as a duet of musicians entertained us. The younger singer had the voice of a trained opera performer.
Homework: Outline of history of Sicily
Phoenicians
Greek and Roman Period (starting 750 BC)
Early Middle Ages
Vandals 440 AD
Byzantine 535
Arab Sicily (965-1072)
Normans 1072
Kingdoms of Sicily
Italian Unification 1860
Day 9, Friday, Feb. 19
My first breakfast in Sicily was great. I was there early for the 7:15 am opening gate. Maurizio asked that we meet in the conference room for orientation. Our walking tour of Taormina was to begin at the front desk. From here we descended to the bus park and turned right to reach stop number one – Villa Comunale, the City Gardens.
The city gardens had been donated by the Cacciola-Trevelyan family during the 192Os. Inside, there is thick vegetation and a typically Mediterranean array of hedges and flower beds with cobbled paths which lengthwise connect the almost three hectares of park. An avenue lined with olive-trees in memory of the fallen during various wars runs among precious trees of various species, some of which are rare
and extraordinarily beautiful. In the centre and on the north-east end of the gardens, there were some characteristic pagoda-style towers with arabesque designs, made of bricks and edged with lavic pumice-stone.
Florence Trevelyan, an English noble woman, had these towers built so as to study the birds since she was a keen ornithologist. Yes, she was related to the famous English historian.
From here we headed upwards to Corso Umberto, the city’s main street, and turned right to reach Via Teatro. Destination number two was the Teatro Greco, also known as the Greek-Roman Theatre. Our guide began introducing to the site by having us stop by what appeared as a Roman archway.
She said so much looked and was Roman, but inside the arch there was a Greek foundation stone that proved the original construction of the site had been by the Greeks.
The Greeks had originally intended to make the most of the breathtaking views of Mt Etna and the Bay of Schisò, but the brutish Romans remodeled it in AD 1, obscuring the natural backdrop with a tall colonnaded backdrop.
They also demolished the stage and orchestra pit, converting them into a semicircular arena for gladiators. In the 12th century the family of Spain's Costanza d'Aragona fancied the site as its villa and built a house over part of the theatre (to the right as you face the stage).
Fortunately, time has swept many of these alterations away, and the crumbling backdrop once again reveals the stunning panorama.
The steps built for spectators offered a resting spot for us tourists.
After exiting through another Roman archway we stopped to admire the wonderful view of Taormina.
Now our group was herded back to the main street and the imposing Palazzo Corvaja.
Palazzo Corvaja, also known as the Parliament Building, is the most important Medieval construction within the city.
Tourists appreciate its splendid façade, which conserves many admirable traits from the antique Arabic art, sunny courtyards and immense rooms.
This building received its name from the noble family Corvaja, one of the oldest and richest families of Taormina, remaining owners for more than four centuries (from 1538 to 1945).
Taormina's tourist information centre is also in the Palazzo Corvaja. Here we found a gorgeous Sicilian decorated cart collection of large puppets.
Right next door was the historic Santa Caterina Church, built in the mid-17th century and consecrated to St. Catherine of Alexandria. It sits on a piazza Umberto I.
Moving down the main drag we entered Plazza IX Aprile and the Middle Gate. The clock-tower acts as an entrance gate to the part of the city that historians call "the 15th century area". Dating back to the 12th century, the tower was razed to the ground during a French invasion under Louis XIV in 1676. What can be admired today is a reconstruction by the people of Taormina in 1679, who added a large clock to the tower Studies carried out over the years, however, have shown that the foundations of the tower in large square blocks of Taormina stone date back further than the first construction date of the tower.
The Town Hall located on one side is now used for weddings.
The Duomo was off to our right. I peeked inside, but we did not enter. A funeral was to take place of a prominent young man who had fallen off a balcony. That explained the many flowers outside the entryway. In front of the church was a Baroque style fountain, built in 1635, in Taormina marble with three concentric steps as its base. On each of the fountain's four sides there are some small columns supporting basins; mythological ponies overlook the basins and fountain water flows out of their mouths. The eastern base of this large fountain contains a fourth basin, larger than the others but no longer used since it was a watering place for animals. There is a smaller octagonal basin in the middle of the fountain base with four putti resting on it; on the east side, two of these putti hold two smaller putti each, forming the base of an octagonal basin decorated with three seals showing their heads and tails.
The Corso ends at the 1400 Porta Catania , emblazoned with the Aragon coat-of-arms, near which will be found a building which is well worth a visit, the three-storied and tower-like Palazzo Duca di Santo Stéfano (c. 1400). My tour of the city was over and it was time to decide ehe best route back to the hotel.
My choice was to reverse my step on the main street and exit the
Porta Messina, turn right and circle back to the hotel.
A guest speaker was slated to make a presentation tonight on the Allied Invasion of Sicily in WW II.
According to Wikipedia: The Allied invasion of Sicily, code-named Operation Husky, was a major World War II campaign, in which the Allies took Sicily from the Axis (Italy and Nazi Germany). It was followed by six weeks of land combat.
At the Casablanca Conference in January 1943, with the end of the North African Campaign in sight, the political leaders of the US and Britain met to discuss future strategy. The British Chiefs of Staff were in favor of an invasion of Sicily arguing that it would force Germany to disperse its forces and might knock Italy out of the war. At first the Americans opposed the plan as opportunistic and irrelevant but were persuaded to agree to a Sicilian invasion on the grounds of the great saving to Allied shipping which would accrue with the opening of the Mediterranean by the removal of Axis air and naval forces from the island. Husky began on the night of July 9, 1943, and ended August 17. Strategically, Husky achieved the goals set out for it by Allied planners.
To distract the Axis, and if possible divert some of their forces to other areas, the Allies engaged in several deception operations. The most famous and successful of these was Operation Mincemeat. The British allowed a corpse disguised as a British officer to drift ashore in Spain, carrying a briefcase containing fake secret documents. These documents revealed that the Allies were planning to invade Greece, and had no plans to invade Sicily. German intelligence accepted the authenticity of the documents with the result that the Germans diverted much of their defense. Still, there were a large number of German and Italian soldiers on Sicily when the invasion started. The Germans in particular had soldiers on Sicily that they had withdrawn and reassigned to the Eastern Front.
The Eastern Task Force was lead by General and comprised of the British 8th Army bolstered by the addition of the Canadian forces. The Western Task Force was commanded by General George Patton, comprising the American 7th Army. The two generals were in a competition mode for which both of them are remembered.
On the maps used by the presenter, Montgomery’s forces were in red and fought on the eastern coast; whereas Patton’s forces moved up the middle and into the northern areas. As it turned out Montgomery received the greatest resistance while Patton encountered areas of sympathetic Italians and Mafia who disliked Mussolini. Patton was in the best position to reach the goal of Messina first.
The busy day was not over yet. A Dine Around Dinner awaited us. The group I was in chose Restaurant Al Giardino.
Food was great,
... especially the cheese-covered veal cutlets.
Day 10, Saturday, Feb. 20
Had breakfast (w/granola) at the opening bell 7:15 am. Maurizio wanted us to meet at the bus park by 8:30 am for our drive to Catania. We did not have assigned seat rotation because it was just understood that front seats should be shared. This worked well. Fred was beginning to look Italian.
Our project for the day was a walking tour of Catania. Catania is the second largest city of Sicily,has the second highest population density on the island and is the capital of the province of the same name. It is a busy commercial seaport and has an international airport to the south. One of the most significant events that shaped Catania was the earthquake of 1693, which devastated most of south-eastern Sicily. The town was rebuilt in the Baroque style, and it was during this era that many of the town's finest buildings came into being.
Our bus passed but did not stop for the Bellini Monument dedicated to the city’s great musician.
Born in Catania, Sicily, Bellini was a child prodigy from a highly musical family and legend has it he could sing an aria of Valentino Fioravanti at eighteen months. He began studying music theory at two, the piano at three, and by the age of five could apparently play well. Bellini's first five pieces were composed when he was just six years old. Regardless of the veracity of these claims, it is certain that
Bellini grew up in a musical household and that a career as a musician was never in doubt. Bellini was known for his womanizing and superstitious nature. For several years he carried on an affair with Giuditta Turina, a young married woman, only to abandon her when their liaison was made public. His greatest works, La Sonnambula, Norma and I Puritani, cut short by Bellini's premature death at age 33.
We left the bus and started our tour behind the great Duomo the earthquake, this cathedral used many ancient monuments of Catania in its construction, including stones from Roman theaters. Norman apses can be viewed from Via Vittorio Emanuele. The Cathedral’s solid-looking structure suggests that it was conceived as a fortified church.
In front we paused to admire its lugubrious baroque facade with granite columns. The church was built over the ruins of a vaulted Roman bath.
The interior continues the Baroque theme with several ornate chapels. Restoration works of the floor have revealed column bases from the original Norman structure.
Against the second pilaster, on the right side, in the central nave, is the funerary stele of Bellini.
The Southern chapel, dating from the Renaissance, is dedicated to St. Agatha. Inside the huge vaulted interior allegedly lie the remains of the city's patron saint, the young virgin, Agata, who resisted the advances of the nefarious Quintian (AD 250) and was horribly mutilated (her breasts were hacked off and her body was rolled in hot coals). The saint's jewel-drenched effigy is ecstatically venerated on 5th February in one of Sicily's largest celebrations. In this photo youngsters gather in front of the shrine.
Painting of the funeral of Agata (Agatha).
Our local guide had us leave the cathedral and square briefly to check out the Piazza Università. This elegant urban piazza is often the site of political demonstrations. One side is devoted to the back of the Municipio (town hall), the other side to the symbolic headquarters of the University of Catania. The university was founded in 1434, but the bulk of it lies in a modern educational complex 3km (2 miles) to the east, in the suburbs.
Our guide elaborated on both the exterior and interior of the Gymnasium.
Returning to the Square we passed Fontana dell'Elefante This fountain was created from black lava, and it is Catania's most famous monument. Conceived in 1735, it recalls Bellini’s famous obelisk in Piazza Minerva, Rome. The Legend goes that this animal became the city symbol because in ancient times pigmy elephants lived in this place, that protected the city’s inhabitants by chasing away fierce animals. It stands on a Byzantine platform and carries on its back an ancient Egyptian obelisk covered with hieroglyphics. On top of that is an iron ornament that includes, among other symbols, a cross devoted to the patron saint, Agatha.
The Fontana dell’Amenan was named after the river that supplies it on its way past some of the principal monuments of the Roman age (notably the Theatre and the Terme della Rotonda).
Behind it is the Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto, where a picturesque and bustling fish market takes place daily
This palace (right) is now the Municipio, or town hall, of Catania. From its central balcony, Mussolini once gave one of his rabble-rousing speeches. If it's open, walk into the building's central courtyard, where you'll see lava-rock foundations; bas-relief wall friezes dedicated eo Catania's patron saint (St. Agatha); and a pair of 18th-century ceremonial coaches that are used every February to carry Catania's ecclesiastical and secular dignitaries (including the mayor) down the city thorough fares for the Festival of St. Agatha.
Via Garibaldi marked the processional route of Garibaldi for his triumphant entrance into Catania during the agonizing process of unifying Italy into a coherent political whole. The event marked Garibaldi's utterance, for the first time, of what eventually became a unifying political slogan, "O Roma, o morte" ("Give me Rome or give me death").
Having visited the key sites in the city, our group exited by way of Porta Uzeda. Originally built by Sicily's Spanish overlords during the early 18th century, this archway contains some interesting shops selling folkloric pottery.
On its opposite side is a pleasant and verdant park, Villa Pacini, which we walked by on the way to the bus.
Our bus headed to the left and we passed Palazzo Biscari. This likely is the most beautiful secular building in Catania. It was erected after the earthquake in 1693, and was at its height some sixty years later when Ignazio Biscari pushed for a museum of archaeology to be set up within it. The South wing of the palace shows a rich decoration of figures and volutes and cherubs that fill the window frames along the long terrace. The entrance of the palace, on via Museo Biscari, consists of a rich portal that leads into a courtyard. Maurizio said we should note the headless “victory” statue on the grounds. Luckily, I managed to catch it with my camera from the moving bus.
The trip back to Taormina was wonderful as we drove along the famous Cyclops Coast. The Ionian waterfront scenery was beautiful as waves crashed against the basalt rocks.
The protruding rocky “islands” have given rise to mythological interpretations. These rocks poking out of the sea near the coast are linked with the mythological tradition of the one-eyed Cyclops. Polyphemus, son of the sea-god Poseidon, took Odysseus and his companions prisoner. But Odysseus managed to blind the giant and they made their escape. The furious Cyclops hurled rocks after him, which, however, fell into the sea without hitting Odysseus – hence the "Cyclops Rocks".
I hated to intrude on the privacy of this young couple, but I thought it would make a good photo shot.
Aci Castello the castle, which was built in 1076 by the Normans, is perched on a basalt rock overlooking the harbor.
Here is still another legend connected to the Cyclops. Polyphemus: jealous of the nymph Galatea, who loved the handsome shepherd Aci, killed the youth with a huge rock. The gods, moved by the despair of Galatea, changed the murdered Aci into a river that crosses the valley and gives name to eight towns, and then flows into the arms of Galatea, waiting for him in the sea.
Back on the bus Maurizio had a special treat for us – The breasts of Agatha. Saint Agatha is often depicted icono-graphically carrying her excised breasts on a platter, as by Bernardino Luini's Saint Agatha (1510-15) in the Galleria Borghese Rome. He has Agatha sweetly contemplating the breasts on a standing salver held in her hand. With roots in religious traditions, bakers now make sugar snacks, cover them with white frosting and cap them with red cherries.
Maurizio, always helpful, designed an evening for those who were interested.
He suggested a fixed menu of Pizza, wine and dessert at the Bella Blue where live entertainment (a blind singer and instrumentalist) accompanied the meal.
Day 10, Sunday, Feb. 21
The hotel’s restaurant doors opened at 7:15 am and I was there. The optional tour to Syracusa departed at 8:15, but it wasn’t long before we made a photo stop. Now I could get a good shot of Mt. Etna from the roadway.
The highway we finally took was in excellent shape and many parts had only recently been completed.
We went through tunnel after tunnel no doubt really cutting down our travel time.
First stop was Theatro Greco. Our local guide led us down into an excavated quarry called
Lapomie. She asked us to use our imagination to visual the process that went on here to reach the present state.
We then walked into “The Ear of Dionysius” for our next session. The Ear of Dionysius is the name given to this cave by the painter Caravaggio. The cave possesses amazing acoustical properties that let a person inside the ear whisper to someone at the other end. Upon noting this, Caravaggio claimed that the cave was used as a prison that let Dionysius eavesdrop on the conversations inside. To illustrate the acoustics, our guide sang the hymn Amazing Grace (and with a very good voice). She asked us to observe the cutting patterns on the walls inside the cave. Is was evident that the stone cutters who quarried in here did so in layers,first in one direction and then the opposite direction for the next layer. The limestone that was cut out of here was also quarried with the understanding that best hard compressed stone was that which was further underground. The less compact limestone was near the upper surface and therefore more likely to crack or to crumble. With our imagination we could picture this whole quarry area as being covered with a roof. Today we see open sky because the ceiling has since collapsed.
Now we entered the theatre proper. The theatre of Syracuse is an imposing example of Greek architecture of the 2nd century BC [ca. 238-215 BC. The theatre was carved out of the rock of the slopes of the Temenite hills on the southeastern coast of the island of Sicily.
With a capacity of up to 15,000 spectators, the theatre originally had 61 tiers (of which 46 remain),
subdivided into 9 sections and separated by wide walkways. Below these tiers is the semicircular pit
where the chorus stood, and, facing them, the large stage, of which little remains. The theatre is set
within scenery of particular beauty, and has a special atmosphere. In the summer months, it is home to
various cultural events, such as performances of Greek and Latin tragedies and comedies.
We were in the cavea area. When turned around and looked up beyond the seats, we saw an aqueduct that looked like a cave.
To the right of that was the miller building from the time of Emperor Charles V.
Altar of Sacrifice: Hieron II Many altars were made of stone and some were of imposing size--in the third century BC, the tyrant Hieron II built this altar 192 meters long.
Roman Amphitheater: This amphitheater was built during the Augustan period and was recently rediscovered just a short distance from the Greek Theater. It is the third largest amphitheater in Italy after the ones in Rome and Verona. The elliptical-shaped amphitheater is almost entirely hewn into the rock and was built to hold gladiator contests, fierce animal fights and simulations of naval battles.
The center of activity.
The Grand Circle tour bus could not, of course, enter the Old Town or Ortygia. We had a nice long walk to the Ponte Umberto, also known as the Ponte Nuovo.
We then crossed the bridge and walked along the waterfront of the harbor. Our local guide was quite vocal about how the high scaffolding cut off the view of the water. Moving along we encountered a hotel that had been frequented by Winston Churchill.
At the entrance of the Old City there was Marina City Gate that dates back to the Spanish period and
Emperor Charles V.
A narrow walkway led us to the Cathedral. Our guide referred to this street as the “alley” of nobility because on either side were nice residences of nobility.
We were to spend considerable time at the Cathedral and this was time swell spent. The island's cathedral, or duomo, is a fascinating building because it was built around an ancient temple. The ancient colonists built a temple to the goddess Athena (Minerva in Roman mythology), perhaps around 480 B.C. You still can see ten of the original 36 columns along the left wall. In the seventh century A.D., the temple was converted into a Christian church, and became the city's cathedral soon afterward. The ancient columns were integrated into the new structure. The building contains influences from various cultures within its wall: Greek, Byzantine, Arabic, Spanish and Norman. After the earthquake of 1693, a new Baroque facade, designed by Andrea Palma, was added to the cathedral. it was completed in 1753.
The Spanish influence is quite evident in this photo. The flooring (polychrome), the wrought iron gates and the side chapel concept could be mentioned in this respect.
Stepping outside I photographed the Municipal Building and the Plazzo del Bosco.
Then, turning around, I captured the opposite end of the square that featured another church, Santa Lucia alla Badia.
We entered this building knowing the central attraction was the painting above the altar. Caravaggio’s work was being manned by two guards under cautiously dim light. At the center of the painting lies the murdered body of the Italian martyred virgin Santa Lucia. According to apocryphal texts, the beautiful
Lucia was a highborn girl from Syracuse, on the island of Sicily. She rejected her appointed fiancee in order to devote herself to good works and commit her life to God but her spurned suitor denounced her as a Christian to the local Roman authorities and she was sentenced to being removed to a brothel and forced into prostitution. According to legend, Lucia became immobile and could not be dragged away. Unable to sully her, the soldiers decapitated the virgin and cut out her eyes. In Caravaggio's painting, she lies supine with her angelic face upturned to the sky, as a celestial light descends upon her.
Even though I was not using flash, the guard told me I could not take a photo of the painting. Instead
I have copied a picture from www.artnet.com here for my journal.
Our lunchtime break took place at a nice (and busy) restaurant on the island. Maurizio explained the menu items with his hands.
I ordered salad caprese. The tab for just this salad came out to 6.50 euro with a cover charge of 1.50 euro (more than $10 US), but it was very good and the atmosphere excellent.
I later took a shot of the harbor front that included our restaurant.
We stopped briefly at the Fonte Aretusa. Fonte Aretusa is also referred to as the Eye of Zillica. It was originally developed out of the outlet of the water table that is located in Syracuse. Moreover, Fonte Aretusa source is set to the legend of Alpheus and Arethusa, which were one of the most fascinating myths of Syracuse. The following is from www.absoluteastronomy.com: Arethusa was a nymph and daughter of Nereus and later became a fountain on the island of Ortygia. The myth of her transformation begins when she came across a clear stream and began bathing, not knowing it was the river god Alpheus.
He fell in love during their encounter, but she fled after discovering his presence and intentions, as she wished to remain a chaste attendant of Artemis. After a long chase, she prayed to her goddess to ask for protection. Artemis hid her in a cloud, but Alpheus was persistent. She began to perspire profusely from fear, and soon transformed into a stream. Artemis then broke the ground allowing Arethusa another attempt to flee. Her stream traveled under the earth to the island of Ortygia, but Alpheus flowed through the sea to reach her and mingle with her waters.
In the distance and on the mainland I could see the Tear Church or Madonna delle Lacrime. This very modern rocket ship or tear drop church towers above Siracusa to commemorate a modern miracle when a statue of Mary supposedly cried in 1953. I had trouble photographing it since we could only see it from afar. I had to use my zoom.
We finished our walking tour at Old Town and walked back to the bus park. As we exited the city I asked that the bus slow down for this British and Canadian Cemetery. 2,721 British Commonwealth troops, 2,237 Americans and 562 Canadians died taking Sicily in what as the largest amphibian operation of the entire war. Many of the dead were buried in War Cemeteries in Syracuse and Agira.
Some 29,000 Axis soldiers also lost their lives. The site of this cemetery was selected in 1943 at an early stage in the operations for the capture of Sicily. Most of the graves are those of men who lost their lives in the landings in Sicily on 10 July 1943, and in the early stages of the campaign on the island.
Once back at the hotel we freshened up for our next Dine Around experience at 7:15 pm
Day 12, Monday, Feb. 22
Today we took the awaited tour up the great mountain and into the snow of Mt. Etna. My day started with the usual substantial breakfast. I was becoming accustomed to the red orange juice squeezed from the local blood oranges. Maurizio told us to dress warm because it could be very cold and windy at the higher elevations.
As we approached the lower levels of the mountain Maurizio explained how the climate changes as we ascended the mount, and that the vegetation and economy were affected accordingly. Our first level was the populated area and it was here that we stopped to learn about the local honey industry. Maurizio helped the employer explain about the honey business.
Naturally, we were taken to the showroom to look over the finished product. Actually, tasting the variety of honey products was a pleasant activity.
I purchased a bottle of honey mixed with nuts that had been harvested in the next climatic zone. It will make a nice gift for my wife.
In another room we were given opportunities to taste olive oil on bread. Near the foot of the volcano, there are a multitude of vineyards and olive groves.
Thus fortified with honey, we were ready to journey upward to the next zone where tree leaves were
changing colors and forested areas emerged. Further along vegetation disappeared and we saw a region that looked like the surface of the moon. This third tier of the mountain is a Spartan wasteland of historic lava flows and volcanic ash. In the past, scientists have used this area to test robots before they send them to Mars, because the atmospheric and geological conditions are so similar. Soon we were nearing the upper levels that were covered with snow, yet there were indications of recent lava flows.
The peak changes in size over the years, but is presently listed around 10,000 feet. Etna has been
active in modern times, destroying the village of Mascali in 1928, and erupting again in 1971, 1992,
2001 and 2002. Over 1200 square meters of Etna's surface is covered with solidified lava.
It was beneath this mountain that Zeus crushed the multi-headed, hundred-handed, snake-infested
dragon Typhoeus (Typhon), thus attaining dominion over Olympus. Zeus forever banned the dragon to the infernal regions of Tartarus under Mt. Etna. The Greeks warned that whenever Typhoeus tried to break out of his confinement, lava would spill forth and earthquakes would crack open the land. To the ancient Greeks, Mount Etna was the realm of Vulcan, god of fire, and the home of the one-eyed monster known as the Cyclops.
Our bus parked near a lodge that offered hot coffee and refreshments — and provided restrooms for the needy.
Some hearty souls ventured out in the blizzard-like conditions to walk on the lava beds.
As we began the downward trek, I managed to catch a passing snowplow from my window. It brought back memories of life in Minnesota.
Then we moved from the barren zone to forested regions until we reached the grape vineyard area
where we were scheduled to eat.
Our bus parked where two officers were stationed. Maurizio said to notice that the carbonari always
work in teams of two, one of who could read and other one who could write. I think I took a photo
of the one who could read.
We walked uphill to Murgo, our eating station. It seemed like there was no level ground in Sicily.
Somehow it was always uphill. If you look at the picture with the signpost for our site, you can see
our bus stationed below.
Our meal was served family style and we were provided generous portions of wine from the vineyard outside the window.
Everything was of the highest quality!!!!
After we ate we walked along side the vineyards that dominated the countryside.
Our bus took us back to Taormina after our long, but fruitful day.
Yet, our evening was not over. We met in the Conference Room for a presentation by Maurizio on how to talk Italian with your hands.
Day 13, Tuesday, Feb. 23
This morning I woke at my usual 6:30 wake-up time. I looked out of my balcony for a view of The Ionian Sea. A beautiful sunrise told me this was going to be a good day.
Our gang assembled at the bus station at 8:30 am.
Originally we were scheduled to visit a school and to see how children and the community benefit from the Grand Circle Foundation, but that was cancelled. To fill the void, Maurizio presented information on education in Sicily as we drove along in the bus.
We arrived at our first stop of the day,a well kept historical villa in Giarre that served as a jewelry factory.
I usually don’t care for the ubiquitous shop stops but this one had a lot of class and free tasty snacks.
From here we headed over to the Alcantara Gorge (above). We were told an individual saw the possibilities of wealth from this wonder by renting boots so people could walk inside the gorge.
Just across the river we were to visit a local family in their home to share a traditional home-cooked lunch—a delightful way to experience everyday Sicilian life. We broke up into groups and were
assigned to homes. The family I visited was really great.
There was the matriarch who presided over the occasion, the hostess who prepared and distributed the food and the lovely granddaughter who helped with her presence.
Day 14, Wednesday, Feb. 24
My wake-up was set for 6:30 am, breakfast began at 7:15 and departure time was set for 9:30 am. Another beautiful sunset greeted me on the balcony.
I took a parting look at our outdoor swimming pool.
The ultimate goal for the day was to reach Palermo. Originally a stop was planned for Piazza Armerina, but that had been cancelled. After a morning drive we pulled over into a gas station for a coffee break and restroom stop.
Our guide pointed out Enna that could be seen on a mountain top ahead of us. The ancient city was placed on the level summit of a gigantic hill, so lofty as almost to deserve to be called a mountain, and surrounded on all sides with precipitous cliffs almost wholly inaccessible, except in a very few spots which are easily defended, abundantly supplied with water which gushes from the face of the rocks on all sides, and having a fine plain or table land of about 5 km in circumference on the summit, it forms one of the most remarkable natural fortresses in the world.
We thought our stop would be brief, but police made a routine check on our bus and driver that took considerable time. They checked everything and even put the bus up on a hoist.
Time for socializing.
We then drove on a modern highway with much elevated bridgework to Caltanissetta. A more simple roadway was used for the last stretch.
We were welcomed to an agriturismo farmhouse for lunch in the countryside. A cat watched through
the window as we ate.
During a cooking demonstration we learned how to prepare a traditional Italian dessert. The granddaughter helped out in the operation and distributed the fare to us guests.
At the close of this wonderful lunch, we bid our hosts goodbye and boarded the bus for the remaining trip to Palermo.
Accommodations: Garibaldi al Politeama Hotel.
Less than a year old, the Garibaldi al Politeama Hotel opened in the city center of Palermo in 2008. The hotel is next to the renowned Politeama Theater, and nearby we can find one of the city's most exclusive shopping areas as well as restaurants and bars. All rooms are equipped with private bath, TV, minibar, radio, hair dryer, safe, and individually regulated air-conditioning. If booked online, price would be 80 euros per night for a single. Two reviews: both “excellent.”
GO ON TO 2010 SICILY PART II
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